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Photo of agapanthus oriental and umbrella

Photo of agapanthus oriental and umbrella


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Photos of indoor plants Published: February 26, 2012 Reprinted: Last edits:

Briefly about leaving

Agapanthus needs bright light without direct sunlight. In summer, the air temperature should be 24-26 degrees, in winter, the optimal temperature is around 11 degrees. During the growing season, agapanthus is watered abundantly, and in winter it is watered so that the earthy clod simply does not dry out. Spraying is not necessary, but will have a positive effect on plant growth.

From the beginning of spring to mid-autumn, it is necessary to feed agapanthus two to three times a month, the rest of the time the plant is not fed. Agapanthus can shed foliage for the winter. The transplant is carried out in March if the roots have completely filled the pot. Agapanthus is propagated in the spring in two ways: by seeds or by dividing the bush.

Read more about agapanthus care

Photos of popular species

Agapanthus is umbrella, oriental and bell-shaped.

In the photo: Agapanthus orientalis / oriental agapanthus

In the photo: Agapanthus orientalis / oriental agapanthus

In the photo: Agapanthus orientalis / oriental agapanthus

In the photo: Agapanthus orientalis / oriental agapanthus

In the photo: Agapanthus umbellatus / Umbelliferae agapanthus

In the photo: Agapanthus umbellatus / Umbelliferae agapanthus

In the photo: Agapanthus umbellatus / Umbelliferae agapanthus

In the photo: Agapanthus umbellatus / Umbelliferae agapanthus

In the photo: Agapanthus umbellatus / Umbelliferae agapanthus

Literature

  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the family Agapant
  3. List of all species on The Plant List
  4. More information on World Flora Online
  5. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants Beautiful flowering Plants on A Plant photos Agapant


Brimer: herb for outdoor and indoor use

Article author: Pravorskaya Yulia Albinovna, 69 years old
Agronomist, over 45 years of experience in gardening

Description of the brimer plant, advice on growing in a summer cottage and in room conditions, methods of reproduction, the fight against possible diseases and pests, species.

The content of the article:

  1. Outdoor and indoor care tips
  2. Reproduction methods
  3. Fight against possible diseases and pests
  4. Note to flower growers
  5. Views
  6. Video
  7. Photos

Brimera (Brimeura) belongs to the Asparagaceae family, but according to some obsolete data it is a member of the Liliaceae family. The native area of ​​natural growth falls on the territory of the Pyrenees, where it covers rocky slopes or grassy plains. It can be found in the northeastern regions of Spain, the plant is not uncommon in the lands of Slovenia and Croatia. Often, the growth height can reach 2000 meters above sea level. This genus unites only four species in itself. The most famous is the variety - Brimeura amethystina (Brimeura amethystina).

Family nameAsparagus
Life cyclePerennial
Growth featuresHerbaceous
ReproductionSeed and vegetative (cuttings or division of the rhizome)
Landing period in open groundRooted seedlings are planted in spring, bulbs in autumn
Disembarkation schemeDistance between plants 10 cm
SubstrateLight, sandy, loam is also suitable
Soil acidity, pH6.5-7.8 (neutral or slightly alkaline)
IlluminationOpen area with bright lighting
Moisture indicatorsStagnant moisture is destructive, watering is moderate, a drainage layer is needed when planting
Special RequirementsUnpretentious
Plant height0.01-0.3 m
Color of flowersLight blue, blue, pink or white
Type of flowers, inflorescencesLoose racemose
Flowering timeJune
Decorative timeSpring-summer
Place of applicationRock gardens, rocky slides, rockeries mixborders, as a houseplant
USDA zone5–9

This representative of the flora bears its name in honor of an amateur botanist from Spain, who lived in the 16th century, Marie Briemer, who was assigned in 1866 by a British naturalist who decided to immortalize the name of his colleague, R. Salisbury. After the work done, this scientist singled out the Brimeura plant in a separate genus, since it was originally in both the Liliaceae family and the Hyacinthaceae family. But today both of these plant associations are included in the large Asparagaceae family. Because of natural growth, Karl Linnaeus (1707-1778), the founder of the taxonomy of all flora and fauna, named one of the varieties of Brimer in 1753 "Spanish hyacinth" or "Imethyst hyacinth".

These herbaceous plants are perennials and have a bulbous rhizome. The brimer bulb has a convex bottom, which is formed by means of one closed and rather juicy scales. Outside, there is also one dried closed and filmy scales. Bulb weight ranges from 20-25 grams. Plant height can vary in the range of 10-30 cm.

Foliage grows mainly in the root zone, gathering in a rosette. The leaf blades have narrow-linear outlines, their bases are covered by a single fused vaginal scales, filmy appearance. The color of the leaves is a rich dark or light green, bluish-green color scheme. Until the time of flowering has come, the leaves are recumbent, but then they rise to their flowers, stretching along the growing peduncle. The number of leaves is 6–12 units.

During flowering, which begins with the arrival of summer, the buds form a loose racemose inflorescence that rises above the leaf rosette. Inflorescences are crowned with flowering stalks with a bare surface. The length of the peduncle can reach 20 cm. Flowers drooping in the inflorescence, there are up to 15–20 of them. They originate in the bracts membranous sinuses. The flower is 1.5 cm long, with a diameter of 1.8 mm. The perianth is distinguished by a bell-shaped or bell-funnel-shaped form. Perianth lobes have a weak limb, this part is only 1/3. The remaining 2/3 of the petals grow together to form a tube. The lobes are colored blue, blue, pinkish or white. If the form of amethyst hyacinth has a blue tint of flowers, then in the central part of each perianth lobe (they are confused with petals in Brimers), there is a stripe of a distinct dark tone in the form of decoration. There is a delicate aroma exuded by the flowers of amethyst hyacinth. Flowering takes from a little over a week to a month.

After pollination, the brimer fruits ripen, which have the appearance of a rounded box with a reverse-conical shape, which is distinguished by a pointed tip at the top. Multiple seeds ripen inside this pod. The latter are distinguished by rounded triangular outlines and a black shade. After the end of flowering (in the middle of summer), the entire aerial part dies off.

Thanks to the delicate beauty of this plant, gardeners of many European countries, following the example of their British colleagues, who since 1759 began to cultivate the breemer, appreciated all the decorativeness and unpretentiousness of this representative of the flora. It is recommended to grow Spanish hyacinth in rocky slides, plant trees in rock gardens and mixborders, or use it as a room crop.


Akigumi, or umbrella sucker

Another close plant, with a completely different fate, has the prospects of growing in gardens, possibly in the middle zone, and in the south of Russia - that's right. And it is already grown there, however, they call it - however, whatever they call it. In a TV report I heard a silver goose, in a YouTube video - sea buckthorn, the names of Abkhazian barberry, shepherdia are known from the Internet. But the correct name of this plant, in the English-speaking tradition, is an autumn olive, in Russian it is an umbrella sucker (Eleagnus umberllata), according to the Japanese tradition - akigumi.

Outwardly, this plant looks like gumi, or multiflorous goose (Elaeagnus multiflora)... The most noticeable difference is that Akigumi flowers are not single, but are collected in a brush, they are similar to gumi flowers, but look more elongated in length. The fruits are about three times smaller than the gumi fruits.

Introduced from China to the United States to strengthen erosive soils, it has become the most dangerous weed there, which neither chemistry nor agromelioration techniques can take. Anywhere in the vast territory of several states, a few months are enough for him to create impenetrable thorny thickets, provided that the terrain is not mowed or other frequent field work is not carried out. Millions are spent on the fight against it, but like a Phoenix, it is reborn even where chemistry has passed, which destroys any (or selectively) plant by contact with greenery, since its seeds are readily spread by birds. They germinate, like gumi seeds, for several years. Cutting it down is not very effective because of the instant recovery by overgrowth.

In Europe, there are no such clear signs of a typical unsuccessful introduction, but the sales of forms and varieties, which this species have, are accompanied by a warning that the plant is a malicious weed. The reader, of course, will be interested in why such a plant should be grown? But even in the south of Russia there is no information that he behaves aggressively when growing an umbrella sucker. This close relative of gumi has a root system very similar in appearance to the roots of sea buckthorn. On the fibrous roots there are numerous overgrowths, but I have not seen overgrowths in my garden.

Umbellate sucker, in contrast to multiflorous oak, has a pronounced apical dominance, as a result of which it grows in the form of a low tree. In the USA, this plant is assigned the 4th frost resistance zone (up to -40 o C), but, most likely, the sum of active temperatures is higher there. In the conditions of my garden, only a plant planted with a large plant, more than half a meter in height, bears fruit. Small seedlings grow very slowly, often dying. The setting of fruits on the only fruiting plant in my garden is very small, a small percentage of the huge amount of fruits is set. Most likely a pollinator is required.

The seedlings I received from two regions (Samara, Krasnodar Territory) died, except for one, and 2 of our own remained. I think that the cultivation of seedlings of both this species and dzhida should be done in greenhouses, until they reach at least half a meter in height.

As a decorative species, Akigumi is quite suitable for a climate similar to the climate of the Moscow region, as a fruit species - it certainly requires further testing, possibly, the development of new forms.

The first flowers appear on it together with the flowering of gumi, that is, in the first decade of June. Fruits, having set and reaching the size of an apple seed, remain green, hang unchanged until the first decade of September. Their ripening is very prolonged, it continues after the first frost, until the first frost. The taste of the berries of this sucker is sweet and sour, if you chew a handful of berries at once, it is similar to the taste of a pomegranate. Perhaps, in the climate of MO, absolutely all the berries on this plant will never ripen.

In search of recipes for using the fruits of this sucker, on the English-speaking Internet, I came across several recipes for making akigumi sauce. It is argued that the mashed and scalded fruits, like the final product - the sauce, have an even more tomato aroma than from the tomatoes themselves. I do not undertake to check this yet, my harvest is too small. From gumi, I tried to make a sauce similar to the one described, but there was no tomato flavor at all. According to American scientists, Akigumi fruits contain 15 times more lycopene than tomatoes. At the moment I have one blooming umbellate sucker, formed by a bush. The thin branches on the very short main trunk are sloping in the same way as I form the gumi. Several seedlings are still very small, although the oldest of them is 3 years old. When grown at home, on a windowsill, akigumi seedlings, like gumi, are often quite strongly affected by spider mites.

Both described plants, I think, are quite worthy of wider introduction into gardens. Completely, according to my information, the genome of the described suckers has not been studied, which is why nothing can be said about the prospects of their hybridization within the genus of suckers. And to single out the species, to separate the narrow-leaved oak from the eastern one, or to combine them, is impossible without a genome study. The same goes for gumi and akigumi. In my experience, these plants do not naturally form 'intermediate' forms. It is unclear if there can be hybrid forms between them that will combine their useful qualities.


How to plant a plant

It is worth planting plants in mountain-type gardens, where they can look beautiful with perennial coniferous crops. At the foot of a tall culture, which can reach a height of four to five meters, perennial flowers should be planted that will not need special lighting. The umbrella-type crown is able to create a cozy shade in the very corner for relaxation, it looks beautiful with plants that are common in the middle zone of the country.

    Such crops with red leaves look very attractive in single planting types, as well as in limited plantings in groups. When planting, it is worth maintaining a certain distance between seedlings from one and a half to three and a half meters. The pit should be prepared in advance with a depth of fifty to seventy centimeters. If planting takes place in a highly swampy area, then it is imperative to create a good drainage layer. The well should be filled with water and a complex of organic fertilizers added to it.

When caring for a maple, you should pay more attention to its pruning. It will only be enough that you will from time to time cut down damaged branches, as well as dry bitches. It is worthwhile with a garden pitch to seal all damage and deformations on the structure of the tree bark in a timely manner, so that protect the plant from infection and various parasites.

But the plant will have a special decorative effect if it is in the hands of a skilled and professional gardener. Trees after shearing acquire a very beautiful and graceful appearance, and in combination with the beautiful color of the foliage, this can get an attractive result.


Where does the ruff live and what it eats

The search for fish in rivers, ponds, lakes and reservoirs should be started in flowing and relatively deep areas (1-5 m) with a sandy-clay or gravel bottom. It is important to take into account that small perches are a favorite delicacy of active predators (burbot, catfish, bersh, pike, pike perch), therefore they try to adhere to natural shelters in stones, vegetation, bushes, snags, and driftwood.

Perspective places are those that are cooled by underwater springs or are shaded for most of the day by steep banks, tree branches, artificial structures, tall or floating plants (susak, reeds, cattail, water lilies). This is due to the fact that the fish leads a twilight lifestyle and is perfectly oriented in dim water. In spring, summer and warm autumn months, the main feeding activity occurs in the early morning, late evening and night. On cloudy days and the cold season, the search for food continues almost around the clock, it is this time that is optimal for catching a ruff. The diet is based on benthic organisms, leeches, small crustaceans, worms, eggs of other fish, insect larvae. When the average size for the species is reached, a small number of tadpoles and fry of other fish are added to the menu.

But it is impossible to call the ruff a predator - it is a pronounced omnivorous benthophage that wages fierce food competition not with pike perch or pike, but with roach, crucian carp, podleschik, gudgeon. That is why an increase in the number of "prickly" in the reservoir leads to a decrease in the growth rate of many cyprinids.


Agapanthus - flower of love

Agapanthus is a perennial plant that is a very graceful blue flower with six petals.Also known as "Lily of the Nile", because it originally grew in the south of the African continent, on the mountain slopes and coasts.

Currently, due to its decorative effect, it is grown both indoors and for landscaping household plots, parks, lawns.

The plant has signs of onion, amaryllis, lily families. The classification of the flower, being the subject of controversy among scientists, led to its separation into an independent species - Agapantovye. It is considered in many countries a symbol of success and prosperity. In Europe, the flower became popular in the 17th century.


Create your own floral arrangement

Enjoying a fresh floral arrangement is such a simple pleasure. Perhaps this is due to the unique ability of the flower to bring the beauty of nature, or perhaps it is due to the intention and feeling that he received them from a loved one. Arranging flowers is an invaluable art that many of us appreciate, but we will be the first. who will say that creating your own arrangement can seem like a big task. It's hard to know where to start!

As you watch our how-to video below and read each step of the process, we hope you feel empowered to try your hand at arranging - whether it's a bold and colorful centerpiece as we showcase, or even a subtle bedside bouquet. table.

Color Story + Style of this composition

We wanted our composition to look playful, whimsical and spontaneous - with an emphasis on organic movements and spring neutrals with a touch of vibrant flowers. Before buying tools or flowers, seek inspiration for the style and color of your composition. When you find photos that you like, pay attention to which flowers naturally attract you, and which colors and shapes attract your attention. Books can be a great resource too - some of our favorites are Hand-Collected, The Locality, Collected Flora, The Botanical Bible, Wreaths: Fresh, Harvested and Dried Flower Arrangements, and Full Color.

Collect tools

These tools can be found in most craft stores as well as flower shops.

+ Vessel of your choice
+ Small plastic plate (to protect your boat from water damage)
+ Bowl of water
+ Floral wire mesh
+ Flower frog
+ Flower clay
+ Knife
+ Flower scissors or sharp scissors
+ Towel
+ Flower wire
+ Tall vases (for storing flowers in water while arranging)

Since the creation of this video, we've learned that flower foam doesn't use the most environmentally friendly ingredients - as a foam substitute, we recommend using one of the related options listed above.

Choosing flowers for this composition

The flowers you love shouldn't be hard to find! We found our flowers at a wholesale florist, but you can find them at your local farmers market or supermarket. We also recommend that you dig interesting greenery, twigs or stems in your own backyard or garden.

Below you will find exactly what we used, but you don't have to stick to it - use as much or less as you like. If you can't find them in your area, scroll all the way down to find alternatives.

Flowering quince branches - 2 small branches
Eucalyptus Gunny - 1 bunch
Jasmine - a few clippings from our garden

Blooming foundation:

Lace Gifts of Queen Anne - 3 to 4 stems
White Astrantia - 3 to 4 stems spread apart
White scabiosa - 2 to 3 flowers
Garden rose Romeo - 2 to 3 flowers
Pink spray roses - 2 to 3 bushes
Stem - 2 to 3 rods

Statement Blooms:

Cafe au lait dahlias - 3 different sizes
Black Eyed Beauty Anemones - 3 stems

Fancy flower :

Red chewing stone - 1 to 3 on each leg
Ranunculus peach butterfly - from 1 to 3 on each leg

Choose and prepare your vessel

We chose an antique brass urn wide enough to accommodate the low and wide middle composition - perfect for the center of your table. (Buy more vases here.)

To use the flower frog:

If using a flower frog, glue it to the bottom of the vessel with flower clay and press down to make sure the flower frog is locked in place. Then douse the flower frog with water before proceeding with the decoration.

To use flower wire mesh:

Cut the flower wire mesh to about 6 inches in length (this will depend on the size of your vase). Begin twisting the wire into a ball shape, weaving the ends inward so that there are no sharp ends sticking out. (You may need to adjust and bend the mesh to fit your chosen container.) Then place the ball in the container and pour water covering only the base of the wire mesh. with flowers.

Start with a layer of greenery

Used greens: branches of blossoming quince, eucalyptus hunni, jasmine

Start the composition by placing the longest branches of greenery in a flower wire netting or flower frog. Starting here, you will quickly begin to define the shape of your composition, which will serve as the basis for the rest of the stems of the greenery.

We wanted our composition to look quirky, asymmetrical and a little sloppy, so we started by placing the white quince, our longest stems, in the flower foam on the right side, with a few shorter branches extending from the left. To achieve this effect, use flower scissors to naturally trim branches or greenery that looks too full.

Gunni Eucalyptus is the second greenery we added, mainly because of its cascading branches that make it look like it is pouring from the vessel to the table, then we continued pouring with jasmine, which has pleasant spring greens, whites and pinks.

Here are a few things to remember when placing any type of greenery in your interior:

+ Stick them firmly into the flower wire netting or flower frog, pushing in just enough to keep the stems securely in place.
+ Greenery is the backbone of your design, so it should appear solid without overwhelming your boat. You can always come back and add more at later stages.

Then add the base flowers

Base colors we used: Queen Anne's Gifts Lace, Astrantia White, Romeo Garden Rose, Pink Shrub Roses, Stock

Fundamental flowers are your base flowers for the arrangement. Think of them as reference layers for large bloom statements that come later.

+ Pink purple lace Queen Anne's Gift fills in the spaces between the greens, which helps add texture to the middle of the composition

+ White astrantia is a filler made of many small white flowers that also adds a texture similar to Queen Anne's lace.

+ Scabiosa white with ruffled petals and a green center. Use sparingly to dilute the color of greenery and other flowers in the composition.

+ Pale pink garden roses Romeo have ruffled petals and look like peonies. Trim the stems at an angle to trap moisture, then remove the leaves and thorns, we added one to the front of the composition and one to the back of the composition.

+ Pink spray roses a shade darker than garden roses, they add a pleasant color. We cut off the long stem of the spray, leaving 2-3 flowers still attached at the top, and cut all the flowers with flower scissors so as not to get bored - placing them in a group in the composition. They help break up greens, but they also look great when paired with a bold bloom to enhance color.

+ Peach pink bed adds space to the composition. We added a few pieces in the same places where the original quince branches were added to emphasize the asymmetry of the shape of the arrangement, which we have already created.

Next, imagine flowers

Bright flowers we used: cafe au lait dahlia, black-eyed handsome anemone

Statement flowers are the stars of your arrangement. These are the most attractive flowers you will notice in your final product.

+ Creamy pink dahlia with milk is the largest flower in this composition, and as you can see we only used one. We placed it slightly to the right of the arrangement so that the focal point is slightly off-center.

+ Black-eyed beauties-anemones - bold flowers. We pulled them out of our arrangement a bit, instead of keeping them tightly tucked in the center to add more whimsy to the look of our center piece. Since these stems, in particular, dangle easily, we extended their stems with flower wire to provide support and help them stay in place.

To get it over with, create a fad

We used fancy flowers: red gum, peach ranunculus butterfly

The final step is to add whimsy by adding final color and movement to the composition, especially around the edges.

+ Red pebbles change the mood of the composition. Applying these little red flashes to your flowers will add an unexpected depth of color.

+ Peach ranunculus butterfly has an antique peach color. They work well for adding whimsy because they are tall and hold up well. The color also balances the bright red of the gum and the soft pinks of dahlia and garden roses.

Completed composition

It's so much fun to see all the flowers and colors blend in the composition. Once all the stems are inserted, you can keep playing with it until you feel like it's ready.

Whichever way you choose to approach your design, know that there is no right or wrong end product. By simply following these foundational steps, you can create what you love. Happy organization!

Depending on your region, all the flowers we have used may or may not be available. See our list below for several alternatives for each category:

+ olive stalks
+ lemon leaves
+ eucalyptus with seeds
+ eucalyptus silver dollar
+ magnolia stems
+ myrtle

+ freesia
+ feverfew
+ gardenia
+ ranunculus
+ yarrow

+ Large onion flowers
+ Icelandic poppies
+ Peonies
+ Echinacea
+ Hydrangea
+ Ranunculus (for color)

Quirky alternatives that can also be the flourishing of claims:

+ Narcissus
+ Space
+ Tulips
+ Fragrant onion
+ Sweet peas

The vessel we used for the decoration was purchased from an antique store, we recommend checking your local antique stores for such a unique vessel!


Watch the video: A Look At Our Various Oriental Umbrellas, Asian Umbrellas and Handpainted Umbrellas - A Sampler


Comments:

  1. Nadav

    May I ask you?

  2. Garin

    A person never realizes all his capabilities while he is chained to the ground. We must take off and conquer the skies.

  3. Swayn

    You are not right. I am assured. I can defend the position.

  4. Rusty

    The authoritative answer, funny...

  5. Matei

    It is by far the exception



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