The variety of ways to reproduce dracaena
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In order to propagate dracaena on your own, you should follow a number of rules that allow you not only to get young specimens, but also to preserve the main plant without harming it. Reproduction of the plant is possible both by cuttings and by seeds. It is important to take into account that the characteristics of its reproduction will also depend on the type of plant.
Dracaena is an unpretentious houseplant that stands out among others for its exotic appearance. By its structure, it most of all resembles a small palm tree with a strong trunk and a spectacular spreading crown. Oblong leaves of a xiphoid shape, depending on the variety, can have a different color. It usually ranges from rich green to light green with white veins, but grayish, reddish and bluish tints can be present, giving the plant a unique look. The most popular are the varieties of dracaena bordered and fragrant, as well as dracaena Sander.
Photo gallery: unpretentious types of dracaena
Reproduction of dracaena
Summer and spring remain the more preferred seasons for breeding dracaena, the period from March to April is especially favorable, but you can get cuttings suitable for planting in winter. The main thing is to observe the temperature regime in the room where the dracaena is located; drafts and excessive humidity should also be avoided.
The high growth of dracaena can become not only its advantage, but also its disadvantage. This applies to those plants that have been growing for a long time and have not been pruned. Their trunks weaken over time, the likelihood of stem breakage increases. In addition, overly tall dracaena specimens do not look very attractive. Therefore, it is worth periodically rejuvenating them by pruning them into cuttings.
At home, you can form beautiful plants that can be an excellent gift for family and friends.
Let's consider the most popular variant of vegetative propagation - cuttings. For propagation, you can take the upper part of the stem with leaves (apical cuttings) or the stem itself without leaves (stem cuttings).
In this case, we are talking about cutting off the top of the plant. To do this, use a sharp tool: a pruner or a knife, pre-treated with alcohol. The cutting height must be at least ten centimeters. In this case, the cut can be both even and oblique - this moment does not play a fundamental role.
It is important that the cut is smooth, the stem should not have bark scuffs and should not be crushed at the time of cutting.
Perform this procedure carefully, without damaging the stem and bark on it. The smoothness of the cut will determine how quickly the plant takes root.
In order to avoid decay of the cutting, it is necessary to let it dry for one to two hours at a temperature of + 20–22 ° C, and to prevent decay of the entire plant, powder the cut of the appendage with crushed coal or pour it with molten paraffin.
Almost all varieties of dracaena at the stage of drying cuttings need to remove excess leaves on the part that will be immersed in the substrate. An exception is the bordered dracaena, the stem of which is not covered with leaves.
Then you can start the rooting process. There are two ways of rooting apical cuttings:
- in water;
- in the substrate.
In the first case, warm water is required (optimum temperature + 20-25 ° C). It is necessary to change it as it becomes cloudy, that is, once or twice a week. To prevent the water from becoming cloudy too quickly, a whole tablet of activated carbon is added to it, since it has a disinfecting property. The use of rooting preparations reduces the time it takes for roots to emerge by 1–1.5 weeks. For this, Zircon is most often used (at the rate of 2-3 drops per one glass of water).
Having chosen the method of rooting dracaena in the substrate, pay special attention to the choice of soil: give preference to sand, vermiculite or perlite. In addition, the use of hydrogels, as well as ready-made mixtures for cacti and palms, is common. To speed up the process, you can use powder-type rooting preparations, these include potassium humate and Heteroauxin. They are used to powder the bases of the cuttings soaked in water before placing them in the substrate. Liquid preparations are also applicable in this case. Epin, Zircon or Ecogel are used during the rooting period for watering the soil, guided by the instructions attached to the substance. To avoid decay of plants, do not overmoisten the substrate. In order to check the moisture level in it, it is enough to grind a small amount of soil in the palm of your hand: the substrate should crumble into lumps. For cuttings, create a mini-greenhouse (made of plastic, polyethylene or glass), in which the temperature of the air and soil should reach + 20-22 ° C. During the day (3-5 times) the leaves should be sprayed with water at room temperature. In bordered dracaena, the leaves of the top are often tied in a bunch, which helps prevent excessive evaporation of moisture. It is important to note that in order to avoid an excess of moisture in the greenhouse, it is worthwhile to conduct morning and evening airings for 15–20 minutes.
Video: apical cuttings of dracaena
This type of breeding can also give positive results. Usually this method is used for plants that for some reason have lost their attractive appearance. For example, you cannot do without this procedure if the top begins to rot or dry. In this case, the stem is divided into cuttings 5–20 cm long and rooted in a light substrate. Depending on the location of the cuttings in it, the following methods are distinguished:
Left - vertical way of root formation; on the right - germination of shoots with horizontal rooting
For horizontal rooting, sand, perlite or vermiculite is used as a substrate. In this case, the stem in the supine position is slightly pressed into the substrate; nothing is sprinkled on the cutting from above. The air and soil temperature should reach + 20–24 ° C. The presence of a mini-greenhouse promotes rooting. It is important to note that a sign of a successful procedure for stem cuttings is not only the roots that have appeared in the plant, but also shoots that sprout from dormant buds. The cutting itself is destroyed over time, since the substances from it are actively consumed for the formation of roots and shoots. During the period when plant nutrition begins no longer from the cuttings, but from independently formed roots, the shoots can be planted in separate pots.
The material on how to properly transplant dracaena will also be useful: https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/peresadka-dratsenyi-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
The number of young plants will be equal to the number of shoots, since each of them can be planted separately
When rooting vertically, sand is used as a substrate, but soil can also be used. The combined option is especially good, when the plant is planted in the ground, sprinkled on top with sand, the layer of which will be 5 cm.Thus, the roots appear first in the sandy layer and germinate and strengthen from it in the ground. Thanks to this method, it is not necessary to transplant the rooted plant, since it is already in the soil. The optimum temperature remains at + 20-24 ° C, and the presence of a mini-greenhouse allows you to speed up the process of root emergence. In this case, only the lower part of the cutting is immersed in the substrate by three centimeters.
Under suitable conditions and good material taken for the propagation of the plant, rooting takes 1-1.5 months, and shoots appear after 2 months
At low air temperatures, the rooting process may take a longer time.
At home, getting dracaena seeds is quite problematic. This is due to the fact that this plant blooms quite rarely, even in the most favorable conditions. Many species bloom for the first time at the age of eight to eleven years. Dracaena can bloom relatively quickly:
- bent back;
Panicles with small fragrant flowers can be white or yellowish
If you still ate this idea, you need to carry out artificial pollination of flowering specimens:
- Use a soft-bristled brush, alternately passing through all the inflorescences;
- Remove the pulp from the resulting seeds and plant them in the ground immediately.
After flowering and successful pollination, dracaena produces orange-red drupe fruits resembling cherries, which, after ripening, can be used for planting
Store-bought seeds are planted in March. For planting, you can use ready-made soil or independently mix peat and sand in equal proportions. In order to speed up the germination process, seeds can be germinated in advance:
- Water at room temperature (+ 20–22 ° C) is poured into a shallow saucer.
- A water-absorbing material (a piece of cloth, gauze or cotton pads) is placed in a saucer of water, on which the seeds are spread. To avoid rapid evaporation of water, cover the container on top with glass or foil.
- Place the saucer in a sunny place (+ 20–22 ° C). The sprouts usually appear within two to three days.
- To avoid drying out the seeds, add water as needed.
Large amounts of water can be dangerous, so keep the cloth moist without completely submerging the seeds.
The embedding of germinated seeds occurs to a depth of one centimeter. The planting cups must be equipped with a drainage system. The containers with the planted dracaena seeds are covered with polyethylene or glass, forming the effect of a mini-greenhouse.
Seed germination usually takes one to five months. The soil should be kept moist at all times. The greenhouse is aired in the morning and evening for ten minutes. The emerging sprouts must be shaded, protecting them from direct sunlight.
Propagation by air layers
This method is good because it allows you to root a new plant without cutting it off from the main trunk at once:
- To do this, it is necessary to determine what height the young plant will be: this distance is measured from the top.
- Clean the trunk from the leaves at the point obtained and make a small incision to the middle of the trunk.
- A small solid object made of wood or plastic is placed in it.
- A transparent bag of peat is fixed under the incision site.
- Then the bag is closed. It is important to note that the soil in it should not dry out.
- Over time, the bag and peat will be filled with roots, after which the resulting shoot can be completely separated from the mother and transplanted into a small pot.
1 - trunk cut; 2 - fixing the package; 3 - fixing the package with peat; 4 - separation of the sprout with emerging roots
Features of the reproduction of different varieties
Depending on the type and variety of dracaena, they may differ not only in appearance, but also have their own characteristics in the process of reproduction. For example:
- Dracaena Golden propagates by cuttings. In this case, the trunk without leaves should reach 20 cm. It is lowered into moist soil so that two or three buds remain on the surface. The temperature under the mini-greenhouse should reach + 28-30 ° C. In this form, the plant is maintained for 30 days;
- Dracaena Reflexa, also known as retracted, tolerates cuttings well, but can be propagated with seeds;
- Hooker's dracaena almost does not bloom at home, so it is much easier to propagate the plant with apical cuttings or air layers, while it is important to observe the temperature and humidity regime;
- fragrant dracaena is a very slowly growing shrub, which should be taken into account when pruning and propagating;
- a feature of dracaena deremskaya is the ease of rooting in moist soil, even without the use of special preparations;
- an interesting process is the reproduction of dracaena Sander: the plant can be given interesting shapes, for example, twisted;
Giving a plant an extraordinary shape even for inexperienced gardeners
- Dracaena Marginata, she is bordered, is of five varieties: basic green, bicolor, tricolor, purple and colorama. Each of them has its own color scheme. During reproduction, the shoots of this plant can also be placed close to each other, twisted and made twisted shapes. Best of all, reproduction occurs by cuttings using a liquid rooting preparation;
Planting multiple trunks side by side allows you to achieve interesting results
- when propagating dracaena Godsef, it is important to place the cuttings under film or glass. The air temperature must reach + 25 ° C;
- dracaena Draco has a very wide trunk, which often does not have branches, therefore, it is better to propagate this species, so as not to harm the plant, with seeds;
- all methods are suitable for breeding dracaena compact. But it can be noted that when propagating by parts of a lignified trunk, the sections can be treated with paraffin, which will protect the trunk from drying out. In this form, the dracaena is perfect for long-distance transportation and can lie for a long time, waiting for landing.
The material on ways to combat diseases and pests of dracaena will also be useful: https://diz-cafe.com/rastenija/bolezni-i-vrediteli-draceny-kak-raspoznat-problemu-i-borotsya-s-nej.html
Possible problems with the reproduction of dracaena and their solution
Reproduction of dracaena at home, as a rule, is a process that is not very difficult. And with a little effort, you can even get several young plants instead of one. Nevertheless, even experienced flower growers sometimes still have to face some difficulties:
- decay of cuttings rooting in the substrate. This happens if the soil is too moist: it should be moist, but not damp. Perhaps the problem lies in the substrate itself: too heavy and dense, not suitable for dracaena;
- high humidity and high temperature required for rooting of dracaena can provoke root rot. To prevent this process, cover the soil with thick paper while spraying. Excess moisture after watering must also be removed;
- at the same time, excessive dryness of the soil and cool air can significantly slow down the development of roots and shoots. Therefore, compliance with the temperature and humidity regime plays an important role in the reproduction process of dracaena;
- dracaena seeds do not germinate. You should be patient: when grown from seeds, dracaena does not differ in friendly shoots. Individual seeds can germinate up to six months, although more often this process takes 1-3 months. Soaking with special preparations (Epin, Zircon or any other growth modulators) will help accelerate seed germination;
- after trimming the top of the remaining dracaena hemp, lateral shoots are not formed. External factors are to blame. The presence of side shoots and their number even depend on the season (for example, if you cut dracaena in winter, the lateral buds may not wake up at all, or only one will wake up; in summer, the number of awakened buds can vary from 2 to 5). This process also depends on humidity, so a plastic bag is often put on the barrel to create an optimal air humidity regime.
Dracaena is unpretentious in maintenance and is suitable for interior decoration in homes and office buildings.Even a person who does not have experience in this area can independently propagate this plant from cuttings, guided by the instructions. Moreover, the whole procedure will not take much time and will not harm the main plant from which the shoots were taken.
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Dracaena: reproduction at home by cuttings, layering and seeds
Many domestic gardeners are engaged in the cultivation of beautiful dracaena. A pot with such a tropical flower is often installed in business centers and offices. Small-sized varieties fit perfectly into the interior of the apartment. With proper care, a culture can live for about 15 years. Dracaena are not always sold in stores. But if such a plant is at work or with friends, you can try to propagate it. The article will tell you about how the dracaena reproduces.
Breeding methods of dieffenbachia at home
It will not be difficult to propagate dieffenbachia even for those who are first engaged in the propagation of any plant.
Dieffenbachia breeding methods:
- stem cuttings
- basal shoots (daughter shoots)
- air layering.
Dieffenbachia cuttings are propagated when there is a long trunk without leaves. This is the easiest way to reproduce. The cuttings are rooted in water or in a substrate.
The top is generally not propagated, but the plant is rejuvenated if there is only one trunk. If there are several trunks, then one top can be left to grow, and the rest can be cut off for reproduction.
Dieffenbachia grows and develops very quickly, and at home, with insufficient light, it stretches up. There are new varieties that are compact in size and short in stem. But most often they grow the usual spotted dieffenbachia, which requires frequent rejuvenation and transplantation.
If you want to update your Dieffenbachia, then feel free to cut off the top and chop the rest of the trunk for breeding. If you want a new stem to start from the root, then you need to cut it so that a small stump with buds (3-5 cm) remains. Several new trunks will sprout from the buds.
Even small stumps will sprout
All parts of the cut dieffenbachia root easily in the water. As a result, instead of one plant, you get several!
It is best to propagate and transplant dieffenbachia in late winter or early spring, at the end of the dormant time. But you can do this in the summer.
Reproduction of dieffenbachia - video
Secrets of success:
|1. Growing temperature: Plants can be kept at normal room temperature between 18 and 24 ° C throughout the year.|
|2. Lighting: direct sunlight during the morning and evening, during the day it is better to protect the indoor dracaena from the sun with a light curtain.|
|3. Watering and humidity: during the growth period, the substrate should be well moistened, the soil surface is 2 - 3 cm deep. It is dried between waterings during spring and summer. In the fall, the frequency of watering is reduced and in the winter months they often simply protect the soil from overdrying. The air humidity does not need to be increased.|
|4. Pruning: trimming is carried out with a sharply sharpened, sterile instrument, depending on the type of trimming is different.|
|5. Priming: Must have excellent drainage, Dracaena prefers organic-rich substrates with a light and loose texture.|
|6. Top dressing: they are fed only during the period of growth and flowering - 2 times a month with mineral or organic fertilizers, in the autumn - winter period, feeding is excluded.|
|7. Reproduction: indoor plants reproduce by stem and apical cuttings, less often by seeds, by dividing large plants during transplantation.|
Botanical name: Dracaena.
Domestic dracaena - family ... Dracaenovye.
Homeland of the plant . Tropics of East Africa.
Description... Dracaena are known for their beautiful foliage, often variegated perennials, which are mostly shrubs with unbranched stems.
Leaves differ in shape and size in almost all varieties of dracaena, but most often they are lanceolate or spear-shaped, slightly curved.
Sometimes dracaena blooms at home and her flowers have a rather strong, pleasant aroma. Some growers use the fruit and the seeds it contains for plant propagation.
Height ... From 60 cm. To 3 m... grows slowly depending on the species.
Tips for Beginners
- If you choose to propagate thuja by cuttings, then for better growth and adaptation to the soil, new cuttings or branches can be placed in Kornev's solution 12 hours before planting. This will accelerate their growth and "babies" will appear much earlier. Remember to remove weeds from your pallets and greenhouses, otherwise all the power of the earth will go to extraneous plants.
- It is best to cut the cuttings themselves in cloudy weather early in the morning. The ideal growth of cuttings and branches for propagation is 4-8 years. If your thuja is sick, but reproduction is in any case necessary, then the cut of the cutting can be treated with a solution of heteroauxin. If the shoots sit in the ground for a long time and do not give shoots, and it is already cold outside, then do not forget to insulate the shoots with sawdust, leaves or spruce branches.
- Choose the method that suits you, multiply your thuja and enjoy the beautiful plant.
- Decay of cuttings rooting in the substrate. This happens if the substrate is too moist. It should be moist, but not soggy. Perhaps the problem lies in the substrate itself: too heavy and dense, not suitable for dracaena.
- Dracaena seeds do not sprout. You should be patient: when grown from seeds, dracaena does not differ in friendly shoots. Individual seeds can germinate up to six months, although more often this process takes 1-3 months. Soaking with special preparations (Epin, Zircon or any other growth modulators) will help accelerate seed germination.
- After cutting off the top of the remaining "hemp" of the dracaena, lateral shoots are not formed. External factors are to blame. The presence of side shoots and their number even depend on the time of year (for example, if you cut dracaena in winter, the lateral buds may not wake up at all, or only one will wake up in the summer, the number of awakened buds can vary from 2 to 5). This process also depends on humidity, so a plastic bag is often put on the barrel to create an optimal air humidity regime.
Reproduction of dracaena at home is a process that is not very difficult. With proper care, the plant will delight the grower for many years. And with a little effort to propagate dracaena, you can get several young plants instead of one.