7 plants that will thrive in clay soil

7 plants that will thrive in clay soil

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You can grow vegetables, berries and ornamental plants without much hassle even if you got a plot with clay soil. Choose a few crops that thrive and bear fruit in fairly heavy soil.


The culture is absolutely undemanding to the fertility of the soil substrate. Good drainage is much more important to her. Juniper responds poorly to stagnant groundwater and soil compaction.

If the soil is too heavy, it thaws late in the spring. In this case, unfavorable conditions are created for the juniper.

The green part of the bush may start to burn. Therefore, the planting must be shaded from direct sunlight.

It is easy to make the substrate looser by adding sand, straw or some sawdust into it. But keep in mind that woodworking waste contributes to the rapid acidification of the soil.


Growing large and healthy potatoes on clay soil is not too difficult. At the end of the season, the site is dug up and manure and peat are introduced into the soil.

Methods for improving soil structure for potatoes:

  • add broken sifted brick to the garden bed;
  • apply rotted organic matter;
  • use siderates.

When planting, ash is added to each hole. This method protects potatoes from pests. After heavy rains, the bushes slightly huddle and loosen the soil between them.


Broccoli, cabbage and Brussels sprouts will feel great on loam. The soil substrate in the garden bed is enriched with compost at the end of the season.

White cabbage prefers well-fertilized, slightly acidic or neutral soil. A mixture of humus with ordinary garden soil, to which a little wood ash is added, is suitable.

Plants are watered twice a week. This is quite enough: loam holds water for a long time.


For planting lilacs in the garden, it is advisable to choose a gentle slope with good lighting. The culture has certain requirements for the soil:

  • moderate moisture;
  • medium lightness;
  • neutral acidity.

If the soil is too light, forest, clay or black soil is specially added to it. Therefore, fertile loams for lilacs will come in handy. If the soil is too heavy, it is lightened by the introduction of peat or humus.


Perennial loves moist soil, but it must be planted above the water table. Currant bushes can be placed along the path, they are very decorative thanks to the carved leaves and shiny ripening berries.

The plantings should be illuminated by the sun all day, so the harvest will be plentiful.

The soil for this culture is preferable loose, the acidity is neutral. Light loams are perfect. Soil nutrition is very important. The currants are fertilized at the end of the season with rotted manure.


This horticultural crop prefers fertile, well-drained soil. When planting, compost and humus are introduced into the hole. Then, for a long time, the seedling does not need to be fertilized.

Geranium actively builds up green mass and does not need feeding. The soil around the stem is mulched with wood chips.

Flowers are planted on alpine hills and rockeries as a ground cover plant. Wild gardens are very popular among designers, where geranium plays one of the main roles.


This crop grows without problems on clay soil, yielding a good harvest from year to year. In addition, peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, phosphorus and other useful substances.

It is even able to change the structure of the soil substrate, making the too heavy clay area suitable for planting vegetables, berry bushes and ornamental plants.

Peas are often planted with potatoes, in which case the tubers become noticeably larger.

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Before you start fertilizing the soil, you need to determine its structure. That is, it is necessary to determine whether the land in the garden plot or vegetable garden is really clayey.

There are several options for how to do this correctly:

  1. You can collect some soil and send a sample to the laboratory. The analysis will take some time, but the gardener will know for sure that the soil is clayey. Such research is quite costly, and, as a rule, agronomists use it. But a full analysis will help to think over the best option for improving the soil and using suitable fertilizing.
  2. The second effective way to identify clay soil does not require any financial investment and therefore is highly appreciated by many amateur gardeners. You need to take a little substrate to fit in your palm and roll it into balls. If it turns out badly, then you can pour a little water over it. You should look very carefully at the molded figure: if its surface is flat, does not crack, then it is clay soil.
  3. The third option is a water seepage test. A hole should be dug, the depth of which will be 500-600 meters, and the width - 300 meters. © After that, you need to fill it with water and wait until the water is completely absorbed, and then you should fill the pit with liquid again. Now you need to check how many hours it will take for all the water to be absorbed. If this takes less than 12 hours, it means that the soil is good, not clayey, and any plants can be planted on it.In the event that it takes more time, then it is necessary to fertilize the soil and make it lighter and more fertile.

You will also need to check the acidity of the water with which the garden is watered. Since if it has high acidity, then all efforts to improve the soil will be nullified within a few days after watering. You can also check the liquid by taking it to the laboratory or using litmus papers. The ideal option is to use settled water for irrigation. But the garden is not indoor plants, a lot of liquid is needed, so many gardeners use old baths to settle, installing them on the site. This is very convenient: the water heats up and settles in a day.

You can understand that the soil is clayey by the following indicators:

  • after digging, the earth remains dense and coarse
  • the water is standing, not absorbed
  • the soil does not warm up well (as a rule, this is due to the high density)
  • planted plants wither due to lack of oxygen
  • plants rot due to stagnant water
  • the surface of the earth is covered with a thick crust, which begins to crack.

All these factors may indicate that the site is heavy and clayey soil. But there are some plants that do well even in such soil. For example, some flowers can grow on clay soil:

  • geranium
  • iris
  • Japanese spiren
  • lungwort.

Ornamental trees can also be grown on such soil. Maple, willow, birch, lilac and bird cherry will feel great. Shrubs such as raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries and currants love acidic, clay soil. Gardeners note that their yield on such a substrate increases several times.

The clay soil has its advantages as well. Its density allows it to retain all mineral and nutrients for a very long time, while bulk soils are not capable of this. So if you fertilize the soil correctly, it will become of high quality and will help you grow a good harvest.

How to determine the type of soil presented?

In fact, the varieties of the presented soils can be very easily determined without even making a chemical analysis. It is enough to pick up a handful of earth, slightly moisten it and try to roll it into a ball. If the conceived figure, ball or sausage, turns out to be a beautiful and even shape, does not crack and crumble, then we have a handful of earth, consisting of clay soil. Soils that are 80% ordinary clay and 20% sand are considered clay soils.

Improving the clay soil on the site. 5 simple options

If you do not improve the soil, then you should not count on a good harvest of almost any crop. Then why bother gardening at all? So there is no way out, we will make the clay soil looser and more fertile. Here are a couple of ways.

1. We use rotted manure or compost

These components should be brought under digging - buckets one and a half, two per square meter. The main thing is not to close the organic matter deeply, otherwise there will be no sense from its introduction. The optimum depth is 1/3 of the bayonet depth, or 10-12 centimeters. Only in this case humus will quickly turn into humus, which will make the soil looser. And if you bury it deeper, then it will lie "dead weight" and will not bring any benefit to the soil.

Horse humus or sheep humus is best suited for application to clay soil. In this case, in the fall, you can even bring in fresh manure.

2. River sand

It is good to improve clay with organic matter, only the improvement process takes a long time. And in order to speed up this process, it will be necessary to add sand along with organic matter - a bucket is required per square meter. In this case, the loosening of the clay soil occurs immediately.

These materials need to be introduced every year and this should be done for 5 years. After 5 years, the soil will become fertile to a depth of 15-18 centimeters.

3. Siderata

When the soil is free or just cleared up after any planting, sow it with vetch, lupine or phacelia. You do not need to harvest these plants. In mid-October, the site is dug up with them. In the spring you will see the result of this procedure. The soil will become much looser and more fertile.

The same result can be achieved by sowing winter rye on the site at the end of August. They dig it up in the spring.

In general, the clay area should not be empty - not a single piece of it. You can sow ground cover plants in empty areas. These plants will protect the soil from crusting after rain.

4. Stuck sawdust

A bucket is added per square meter of such sawdust. But, first, the sawdust is soaked in a urea solution for about a day. For 3 buckets of sawdust, you will need 10 liters of water and 1 glass of fertilizer. Sawdust is soaked so that they do not absorb nitrogen from the soil.

Do not add fresh sawdust to the soil, especially if it is coniferous.

5. Special case

When the clay soil is very hard and the shovel gets into it with great difficulty, the first year you need to add other materials to it. Namely, thin twigs, straw, crushed bark, small crushed bricks. All these materials will create a porous structure in the soil that will be filled with air. The soil will begin to "breathe", and already in the 2nd year it will be possible to apply all those baking powder that we have listed just above.

What to do if you have clay soil on your site, you will learn from these video clips. I advise you to watch both. Here is video # 1.

How to improve clay soil at low cost?

Yes, the gardener or gardener does not have time to restore the soil of the site for 20 years!
Everything can be done easier.
There is a preparation Flora-S. Follow the instructions.
What is he doing? Here is a quote: “On heavy clay soils, FLORA-S promotes the mutual repulsion of clay particles by removing excess salts and destroying the compact three-dimensional structure of the clay. As a result, the soil becomes looser, excess moisture evaporates more easily from it, and the flow of air improves, which makes breathing easier and roots moving. "

Plus siderates, which do not need to be plowed. After all, the main thing in green manure is not the green mass that grows above the soil surface, but the roots. After dying off in late autumn and winter, they become messes for soil microorganisms. This also contributes to an increase in the fertility and looseness of the soil, its water and air permeability. And the green mass should remain on top of the ground. This is, albeit insignificant, but mulch. That is, it will cover the soil from weathering and drying out. Which is also for the benefit of soil dwellers.
Now, about the money for these procedures: a kilogram of green manure seeds costs between 80-100 rubles in garden centers, cheaper from market traders. It was possible to buy rye from them in the fall for 80 rubles per bucket with a volume of 10 liters. Plus 100 rubles for the drug. The drug is enough for two hundred square meters for one treatment, counting only the beds, not taking into account the area of ​​the row spacing. There are only siderates in them. But a bucket of rye is enough for the whole garden in abundance.
The drug is diluted in water, the amount of water does not matter, since water is a simple carrier of the drug, the main thing is that the bag is evenly distributed over an area of ​​one hundred square meters, and the soil moisture is palpable, light, but not soggy. It is usually suggested to dilute the previously prepared concentrate in 100 liters of non-chlorinated water. (The concentrate is easy to prepare.) That is, 10 buckets from a watering can should be poured onto a bed 10 meters long and 1 meter wide

This preparation very quickly restores the structure of heavy clay soil. But it will be necessary to plow the beds, even with a cultivator, without touching the row spacing.

Well, it's already winter.
Now here in the spring. Although it's warmer here. But all the same, the drug that you are already using is not worth it. After all, microorganisms are not immortal. If you still have stable pluses, at least up to ten, then you can. But you still have to buy. Where did you buy it?
First, a simple Flora, and then the one that you already use.
Flora is pure humic acids, and the familiar preparation with the addition of hay sticks.
I really like it too. Unique properties. For any soil and a huge increase in yield without manure, humus, compost. That is, without any extra work.
I spray and water. And I just pour my plants out of a watering can. Instead of watering.
I also prepare the soil with these preparations for seedlings. My seedlings are small, short, I grow without picking. I fertilize only with Flora. I abandoned humates a long time ago, when I realized that they were acidifying the soil.
I often write about him. But you are the first to use it and who liked it. Our regiment has arrived!

I don't always follow the instructions exactly. It is imperative to dig up the beds. In any case, this is what the father-creator of the drug told me. But I have flat-cut processing, so I don't dig, I don't plow. Although it should be at least once. To bring into the soil to the depth. Because water does not wash out from the soil, like mineral fertilizers, on the contrary, humic acids bind to the soil.

Plants that prefer clay soil

you build - we green!
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Hellebores are rhizome herbaceous perennials with leathery, finger-dissected leaves, mostly overwintering. Flowers on a flowering stem 20-50 cm long. The flowers are decorative by large, variously colored cups, monochromatic and variegated, striped and dotted. There are many petals, they are very small, greenish or yellowish.
Location: hellebores prefer semi-shaded places among trees and shrubs, but they can withstand not very deep shade and sun with regular watering.
Soil: prefer heavy clay soil, deeply cultivated and rich in humus.
Planting: Old plants are best divided and replanted in early spring or fall. Planting is carried out in well-filled pits measuring 30x30x30 cm, at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other.
Reproduction: by dividing the bush and seeds.
Bloom: bloom in the middle lane in April-May, in the southern regions - from December to April.
Usage: hellebores are suitable for planting near shrubs, under the canopy of trees, in mixed plantings in combination with other early flowering perennials. Beautiful in bouquets.

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Watch the video: Plants for Poorly Drained Soils


  1. Hadad

    There was a mistake

  2. Daishicage

    Thanks for the explanation, the simpler the better ...

  3. Eri

    It is visible, not destiny.

  4. Faulrajas

    Now all became clear to me, I thank for the necessary information.

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