Removing Oleander Bushes – How To Get Rid Of Oleanders

Removing Oleander Bushes – How To Get Rid Of Oleanders

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Oleander produces attractive flowers and fuss-free foliage but sometimes it is simply too tenacious and becomes invasive or even poses a danger to your children or pets with its toxic foliage. Removing oleander bushes is easier said than done, however, as they develop a huge root system, numerous vigorous suckers and entrench themselves firmly in their garden home.

Speedy growth and constant grooming are other reasons for getting rid of oleander plants but the chore isn’t for the faint of heart. Read on for some tips on how to get rid of oleanders with success.

Oleander Root System

While many of us may know oleander as an attractive ornamental bush, there are a few of us that curse the day we started growing the vigorous plants. Oleander can take over an area, and their poisonous nature makes them dangerous with young children and pets around the home environment.

Often, removing oleander bushes is the only safe decision when young people and animals can be potentially affected. However, oleander has the potential to return through left behind roots or suckers. Permanent removal of oleander often requires chemical intervention or professional gardening tools.

Oleander bushes form extensive root systems after they have matured and become established. The oleander root system is tough and can grow amongst rocks and other obstacles, making them perfect foundation plants or specimens along the drive. However, once the root system is entrenched in any underground objects, it may take even more than a crowbar to remove them.

Gardeners have reported using trucks to pull out stubborn stumps and roots, as well as chemical attacks to simply kill roots. Bleach, glyphosate and other herbicides are often cited as useful, but it is important to consider what these substances do to the soil and water table.

Getting rid of the entire oleander root system and any suckers can also be done with brute force and some specialized tools.

How to Get Rid of Oleanders

Getting rid of oleander plants without using chemicals takes dedication and perseverance. You will need to dig around and under the entire bush. Oftentimes, it is easier if you simply cut back all the limbs and stems so you can get a good grip on the stump and root system.

Vigorous roots may be too entrenched to simply dig out, so you should have on hand a pry bar, root saw and an extra set of hands. There are even stories of truck bumpers being pulled off in attempt to remove the stump and roots of an oleander. If you fail to get all the roots, new shoots will occasionally appear, but these are easy to deal with by vigilant cutting. Slow and steady wins the race, and patience will pay off with consistent shoot removal that will eventually sap the strength of the roots.

Suppose you have done the slow, patient removal method and your oleander still sends out shoots that are becoming small trees before you can cut them down. Enter the word frustrated. Frustrated people do interesting things. Some of the ideas bantered about for oleander bush removal include:

  • painting the cut ends with brush killer
  • pouring bleach onto the root zone
  • using fire to burn the roots

Each suggestion is potentially worse than the last, as far as potential side effects go. You can hire a tree removal service to grind the stump, which is costly, but effective and safe. If you wish to use chemicals, get a good stump remover and apply it directly into holes drilled into the stump. Drill 4 holes and apply 4 to 6 ounces (124 to 186 gr.) of the stump remover product. It can take 6 weeks or more for the stump to begin to disintegrate. This method of getting rid of oleander plants is toxic, but when properly applied, it is targeted and should cause no harm to neighboring shrubs and plants.

Note: Any recommendations pertaining to the use of chemicals are for informational purposes only. Specific brand names or commercial products or services do not imply endorsement. Chemical control should only be used as a last resort, as organic approaches are safer and more environmentally friendly

How to Stop Slugs from Eating Plants (8 Simple and Effective Methods)

Did you know there are two types of slugs? Predator slugs and plant-eating slugs. The predator slugs aren’t as big of a problem, but if your garden’s plagued by plant-eating slugs, you need to find a way to stop those from eating your plants or everything will be destroyed. Some of the most effective methods are listed below.

The three main types of plant-eating slugs to get rid of from your garden include:

  • The Pacific Banana Slug (Ariolimiax Columbianus)
  • The Giant Garden Slug (Limax Maximus)
  • The European Black Slug (Arion Rufus)

All these slugs and the closely related snails can be either deterred from eating your plants, trapped and humanely removed or killed for trying.

Read below to find the various methods of slug control and choose the approach that feels right for you.

Trying to get rid of Oleander

Gardening Reference » Gardening in 2004

OK, I am trying to get rid of my oleander and was wondering if I just dug them up will they grow back from the roots that were not completly dug up? Or, do I need to just chop them down and kill the roots? Please help, I need to make sure I get rid of this.

there is some stuff you get at lowes is for tree trunk removal.You drill holes and our this stuff in and eats the wood.
If no other plants are in area you could por boiling water and would kill it AND sterilize your soil.
can use vinegar& if is in sun will work even faster.

I'd love to have your oleander.I love its look

* * * *

I will age ungracefully until I become an old woman in a small garden..doing whatever the Hell I want!

Its called bushbgone.can use full steength on roots.

* * * *

I will age ungracefully until I become an old woman in a small garden..doing whatever the Hell I want!

Where the Oleander is now I was going to build up the planter a couple of feet so will this stuff be ok to use if I want plants to grow in the same area (a few feet higher).

I don't have my box anymore so am not sure.but weeds are growing where removed tree root.but was fall and is now spring.I'm going to walmart soon and will try to remeber to run down to feed store& see if carry and what box says.I need some Iron anyway.Guess I better have neighbor take me and not hubby huh.I think he'd have a heart attack if I went in gardening area.

* * * *

I will age ungracefully until I become an old woman in a small garden..doing whatever the Hell I want!

We have people that wanted them, but when we started to dig them up the really big roots were breaking off. Will the oleander grow back from these roots? Or, do I need to just kill them.

Let me preface this by stating I have had a ton of these planted around 3/4 of my perimeter and most are approx. 12-20 ft. tall. Do not burn oleander. it is lethal.

I know all about the tangled massive roots.
I have dug down and removed some oleanders that were small and left a few roots but nothing came up with those. the HUGO GIGANTO ONES. I cut down to about a foot with a bow saw and those are producing leaves and branches something fierce. grrrrr. have yet to get a chainsaw so I keep clipping the new leaves off! That has been for 2 years and they are still producing new stuff.
There is one oleander that I cut down just below the soil surface (which was smaller approx. 8ft tall) and it is sending up several leaves and branches as we speak. I keep clipping them off and they still come back.

I have sprayed the leaves with Round Up and that has worked for awhile but they DO come back and fierce. I have yet to drill into them and place full strength Round UP. will see if that kills them.

From my understanding the Round Up (Rumuda is cheaper and same stuff) but not sure if it kills roots without going through the leaves. dissipates and becomes inactive after a certain time period. Which is evidenced by . if you spray and let it DRY and walk through it . it doesn't spread on your shoes to kill other plants. grass etc. Read the bottle for sure but I remember it stating you can plant in the same area after X amt. of time.

Don't know anything about brush b gone. But that is my next step if the Round Up doesn't work.

Please keep us informed in your choice and how it works out. I will definitely be waiting for your follow up!!

☑ What You Can Burn in a Burn Barrel

Not to sound negative, but unfortunately, the list of what you can burn in your burn barrel or garden is much shorter than what you cannot.

Only burnable rubbish should be thrown in your burn barrel. Avoid overfilling it, even with the good stuff, as this could cause the trash to spill out on the ground when it’s on fire. Yikes!

You may be able to burn garden brush, like tree limbs, along with natural fabrics (such as cotton) as long as they haven’t been dyed. You can burn any kind of wood, too, as long as it doesn’t fall into one of the categories listed above.

Things like food wrappers can also be burned, as long as they aren’t plastic. Some people actually advocate for burning non-recyclable plastic in small amounts in their burn barrels.

I’m not a huge proponent of this idea, but it’s lamey your choice. If you must burn plastic, keep it at a minimum.

The same goes for cardboard and non-recyclable paper – just be aware of what everything you add to yoru burn barrel might contain, and try not to breathe in the fumes if you knowingly burn something that could be toxic.

Again, if you’re having trouble getting your fire to start, don’t use an accelerant. That includes lighter fluid! This will cause your flare to flare and may cause it to burn out of control.

Other Tips for Burning in a Garden/Burn Barrel

Ultimately, burn barrels offer homeowners a convenient way to get rid of burnable waste. Making your own barrel is often as simple as finding a 55 gallon drum, removing the lid, and punching holes near the bottom to add ventilation.

Just make sure you research the local laws and regulations in regards to burning – and be aware that these often change based on the time of the year and various climatic conditions (many areas issue burn bans during periods of dry weather).

Adhere to these laws, because no amount of trash is worth a citation!

Regulations aside, try to avoid burning on days that are hot and dry – or on those that are exceptionally windy. Don’t burn anything like aerosol cans, which can explode in the barrel, and above all, be considerate of the health of your neighbors – and of your own health, too.

Otherwise, just make sure you keep your fire well-attended so that it doesn’t get out of control. You’ll be able to make good use of your burn barrel when you follow these tips!

Rebekah is a part-time homesteader. On her 22 acres, she raises chickens and bees, not to mention she grows a wide variety of veggies.

Oleander Cultivars to Consider

  • 'Algiers' features single, dark red flowers.
  • 'Calypso' is cold hardy with cherry red single flowers.
  • 'Isle of Capri' grows to 7 feet tall with single light yellow flowers.
  • 'Petite Salmon' is a dwarf plant, but less cold hardy than most oleanders.
  • 'Sister Agnes' is hardy, grows to 12 feet and has large, single white flowers.
  • 'Austin Pretty Limits,' a new cultivar available in 2021 from Proven Winners plants, is a compact shrub with pink flowers.

❌ What You Cannot Burn in a Burn Barrel

Plastic is a major no-no when it comes to burning things in your burn barrel. Not only does it release chemicals into the air, but it can also emit fumes containing things like furans, dioxins, and styrene gas – all of which are extremely bad for you and the environment alike. You don’t want to inhale this stuff!


You might be tempted to pour a bit of gasoline or diesel fuel on a backyard fire to really get it going. After all, starting a fire can be hard – especially if you don’t have the best kindling to start with.

However, pouring accelerants on a fire is not a good idea. They are simply too flammable, making them risky as they could cause explosions. If your fire is small or is slow in getting started, just add more dry pieces of kindling (the smaller, the better).

Although it’s fine to add most kinds of paper to your fire, you’ll want to avoid adding anything that contains bright-colored dyes. That includes magazines along with some types of junk mail, and colored wrapping paper.

These items often contain dyes that can release toxic fumes when they are burned. Instead, just recycle the junk mail and magazines or use them for some other household use or craft.

Pallets and Other Treated Wood

If you search Criaglist, you’ll find all kinds of people trying to get rid of pallets and other types of treated wood.

They might be free, but they’re not a good choice for your fire pit. Wooden pallets are often treated with methyl bromide, which releases into the air when you burn the wood. This is not only bad for your own health, but it’s bad for the environment, too.

Not all pallets are treated with this chemical, but unless you have a way of knowing for sure that your stack of pallets is safe, steer clear instead.


Cheaply made, inexpensive furniture is often crafted with particleboards. I’m not a huge fan of particleboards, and try to buy furniture that is made out of real wood instead. However, if you have a bunch of this stuff lying around, try to resist the urge to toss it in your fire pit.

It is often held together by high-strength adhesives that emit toxic gases when they are burned.

Painted Wood

Anything that has been painted (along with paint itself, although that might be obvious) doesn’t belong in your garden’s burn barrel. Paint can release toxic fumes.

Keep in mind, too, that if the paint or the painted wood is extremely old, it could contain lead, which is extremely toxic.

As with magazines and paper products, cardboard seems innocuous enough. However, cardboard can cause a fire surge that could injure you if you happen to be standing too close. It also can release chemicals into the air from the dyes used to print the boxes.

Poisonous Plants

You may have spent hours clearing your garden of all the poison ivy you could find, but the burn barrel is not a great place to dispose of it. From poison ivy to poison oak and sumac, these weeds should not be disposed of in a fire.

When you set fire to the oils in the plants (the same ones responsible for creating the painful, itchy allergic reactions we all hate) you can cause severe lung irritation, damage, and major respiratory problems.

Oleander is a plant that is incredibly beautiful to look at, often grown as a shrub in the garden. It produces lovely pink, red, and white flowers.

However, as beautiful as this shrub is to behold, it’s really important that you avoid burning it in a burn barrel. It is incredibly toxic, and burning it can sicken your heart, central nervous system, and gastrointestinal system, too.

Styrofoam should also not be burned in your burn barrel. You’ll release a toxic gas that can affect your central nervous system. Plus, Styrofoam doesn’t really burn that well, producing a sooty black flame and smoke that will irritate your lungs.

Christmas trees

Have an old Christmas tree to get rid of? You might be tempted to burn it in your burn barrel.

When you take the proper precautions, you might be okay doing so. However, beware that Chirsmtas trees contain lots of resin, which can make your fire pop and crackle. Don’t stand too close.

Non-Local Wood

If you’re burning wood that you got from somewhere out of the area, exercise caution.

If it came from more than a few miles away, you need to be super careful about introducing invasive wood pests, like emerald ash borers or gold-spotted oak borers, to your local ecosystem. These pests often move to new areas in firewood, so be careful.

Under no circumstances should you burn furniture in your burn barrel.

Compost, Yard Waste, and Food Scraps

Ok, so you technically could burn food scraps, yard waste, and compost in a burn barrel. But why would you want to? Compost them, and use them in your garden instead.

Believe it or not, even dryer lint should not be burned in a burn barrel. It can release toxic chemicals that were used to dye your clothes.

Burning green wood is not necessarily dangerous. However, burn with caution, since it will produce a ton of smoke. You may have a harder time getting it started, too.

If you live by the ocean, you might be tempted to toss some driftwood into your fire. Don’t do it – even though the beautiful blue-lavender flames the fire produces might be intoxicating to look at.

The colorful flames aren’t so innocent, though. They’re produced by metal salts absorbed by the wood while it was in the water. Sadly, most of those are toxic.

Rubber not only smells terrible when you burn it in a burn barrel, but it can also release toxic chemicals into the air.

Trash of Any Kind

This one is just gross – don’t do it. Lots of people burn trash in their backyard and burn barrels, but it’s a terrible idea. Not only does it smell bad, but it releases a lot of black smoke and a lot of toxins. In most places, it’s illegal, anyway, so you can expect to get a ticket if you get caught.

Homemade Remedies to Kill Mice

If you are dealing with a mice infestation, there are better alternatives for getting rid of the mice and rats than poisoning them with harsh chemicals or trapping them. Here are numerous ways you can get rid of mice without putting your family and pets in the path of toxic chemicals.

Soda is a common ingredient that you probably already have in your refrigerator, and if you don’t already have soda in your home, you can easily purchase it at your local supermarket or corner store. Pour the entire can of soda in a small bowl and put it in the area where you are noticing mice activity.

When the mice drink the soda, the carbonation kills the mice shortly after they’ve ingested it. You can place several bowls around your house where you think mice are gathering, like under the kitchen sink or in your kitchen cabinets.

One thing you want to keep in mind is that if the soda is left too long, you will attract ants, which turns into another mess on its own.

Dry Cement

The powder that is used to create cement is known as dry cement and is an excellent way to kill mice without using harmful poisons. When mixed with flour, the dry cement mixture becomes irresistible to the mice, who quickly eat it up.

The combination makes them thirsty, prompting them to drink a lot of water. The mixture then dries up inside of them, swiftly killing them. To use this method, follow the steps below.

Kill Mice using Dry Cement

Mix the ingredients in a bowl. Place the dry cement and flour mixture onto a paper plate and place it in an area where you notice mice activity or a place where you’ve found a significant amount of mouse droppings.

Place a bowl of water near the mixture. If you discover that the rats aren’t eating the mix, you can always add a teaspoon of cocoa powder.

Kill them with Mashed Potatoes

Mashed potatoes work in the same way that the dry cement works. The sodium in the potatoes makes them thirsty. When they drink water after ingesting the mashed potatoes, the water causes the potatoes to expand in their stomachs, efficiently killing them.

To make things easy, use instant mashed potatoes that you can purchase from any grocery store. After making the mashed potatoes spread a thin layer of mashed potatoes on a paper plate and place it in any mice-infested areas that you find.

Place a bowl of water near the plate. After the mice have fed on the mashed potatoes, you will want to clean the area up to avoid attracting ants.

Use Peppermint Oil

You may be wondering, does peppermint oil repel mice? Peppermint oil is one of the essential oils that repel mice. Peppermint is a scent that most people like, but the fresh scent makes a great repellent for mice. Placing a little peppermint oil on several cotton balls and placing them around your house is a great way for how to repel mice.

You can put the cotton balls in places where mice are gaining entry into your home and in your kitchen cabinets to keep them away. You can also plant mint around the exterior of your house to keep them away from your home. As a bonus, peppermint oil will also kill pesky insects like spiders and mites.

Used Kitty Litter

While this may not be the most hygienic way for how to get rid of mice without poison, it is extremely efficient. Cats naturally prey on mice, so if mice suspect that you have a cat in your home, they will steer clear of your home.

Placing used kitty litter in tubs near possible entry points into your home will keep mice well away from your home. They will smell the cat’s urine and flee the scene.

Introduce Natural Predators into Your Home

One of the most efficient ways for how to naturally keep mice away is by introducing natural predators into your backyard and home. The simplest solution to a mouse problem is to bring a cat into your home. Bringing a cat into your house can eliminate a mice infestation in a matter of days.

However, bringing a cat home is a serious commitment and takes a lot of work. If you aren’t keen on getting a cat, you can try to attract barn owls to your property. Just like the cat, barn owls prey on mice and can quickly mitigate any problem you may have.

To draw barn owls to your yard, you will need to build or buy a nesting box and place it in your yard, approximately 15 feet from the ground.

If you have a problem with moles, attracting owls to your yard will also help you to keep these annoying animals from digging in your garden.

Dryer Sheets

It can sometimes be challenging to keep mice out of your home and outbuildings. How to get rid of field mice involves repelling or deterring them in some way.

Dryer sheets are an item that you probably already have in your home, but if you don’t, you can easily purchase them to help you repel mice naturally. The dryer sheets emit a scent that will have the mice fleeing your home.

Place them in areas where the mice may be gaining access. Sealing those locations is the best idea but dryer sheets work well for a little while. Just remember that the dryer sheets will lose their scent and need to be replaced often.

Use Ammonia

The beauty of ammonia is that it mimics the smell of urine of the animals that like to prey on mice, without having to place urine around your house. To use ammonia to naturally repel mice, put a small amount in small plastic cups, and put them around your house.

These are perfect for use in the attic and garage. If you have small children or pets, you can place the ammonia in small mason jars and use a lid with holes poked in it. This way the scent can still be picked up by mice, but your pets and children won’t be able to get to the ammonia. (..)

Make a Bacon Fat Trap

You can create homemade traps with bacon fat or lard. This method is a bit messier than any of the other methods mentioned in this article, but it is extremely effective in getting rid of mice without poison.

Watch the video: Removing Oleander tree root system


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