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Anoda Cristata, sowing, planting, transplanting

Anoda Cristata, sowing, planting, transplanting

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Anoda Cristata, frosty perennial with the allure of a wild!

Anoda Cristata is one of the charming old-fashioned flowers of wild gardens. It forms beautiful and high tufts which undulate with the will of the 4 winds. The flowers are 4 to 6 cm in diameter, camped at the top of the thin 60 cm stems. They are very similar to those of lavatera, in flat cups, with silky rounded petals, pink, lilac or even white. The heart is white. the Anoda Cristata color the garden all summer long until mid-fall.

Botanical name:

• Anoda Cristata

Plant info:

• Cycle: Perennial
• Foliage: Lapsed
• Hardiness: hardy to -8 ° C
• Family: Malvaceae - Malvaceae
• Harbor : Tuft upright
• Exhibition: Sun
• Ground : Fresh, rich and deep
• Sowing: Under shelter in March
• Plantation: May
• Flowering: July to October
• Fruiting: july to october
• Rooting: Roots
• Cultivation area: Every year
• Origin: Central America - Mexico
• Honey plant: no
• Edible plant: No
• Poisonous Plant: Yes

Special features of Anoda Cristata:

• The plant is edible, it is said that the Mayan ancestors harvested / cultivated it ... but in reality these crops were intended to feed the animals. The fruit is a vegetal piece with soft flesh like velvet, very cut out on the top, segmented.

What advantages in the garden:

• Long flowering
• Rapid growth

What exhibition for Anoda Cristata?

• Sun.

What soil?

• Fresh, rich, and deep soil.

Method of multiplication?

• Sowing

When to sow Anoda?

• Under cover from March.
• In place, from May (shorter flowering period)

How to sow Anoda Cristata?

• Prepare a box filled with a mixture of seedling soil and peat.
• Pack it down with a small board.
• Do not sow too tightly.
• Cover with a few millimeters of potting soil.
• Tamp again.
• Water and keep moist until emerged.

When the plants bear a few leaves:
• Prepare buckets filled with seed soil.
• Choose the most beautiful and strongest plants.
• Place them in a cup without damaging the roots.
• Tamp with your fingers.
• Water.
• Water on dry soil until planting.

When to plant the Anoda?

• Anoda is a frost plant, plant it after the last frost, depending on the region, from April.

How to plant?

• Work the soil on a spade height.
• Place well-decomposed compost at the bottom of the hole.
• Mix garden soil with potting soil.
• Place the Anoda Cristata clods.
• Space the plants 0.5 m apart.
• Recap, tamp ...
• Water generously.

Culture in pots?

• No. Anoda cristata takes all its beauty in free, wild cultivation. The plant will not feel good in a pot because in order to develop perfectly, it needs deep rooting and not constrained to the limits of the pot.

Interview :

• No.

Flowering of anoda:

Beautiful pink, lilac or white flowers.


• Anoda Cristata "alba": with white flowers
• The typical variety with purple flowers.

What to plant with?

• Friends ... and other umbellifers

Use :

ATa garden: in wild garden, in massif, on edge ...
• Without garden: no

Quick sheet:

Photo by Franz Xaver on - under creative commons license.


Item name

Anoda Cristata, planting with advantage in ornamental gardens


Perennial anoda Cristata grown as an annual. It is a plant native to Central America. It produces beautiful mauve, lilac and white flowers, which sit at the top of the 60 cm stem, which resemble those of lavatères (or mauves). The petals are silky and the stems slightly hairy. Plant them in "wild gardens" ...


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The elementary orchard vegetable garden.

Creation date : 13.05.2015
Last update : 25.11.2019
339 articles

Agrinature tends towards the native practice of agriculture using only living resources in its effort of negentropy breathed in by the constant injection into the Earth ecosystem of photons provided to it by Master Sun, the middle star of the galaxy.

Plant food is essentially a triptych made up of hydrogen from water, carbon dioxide from the air & indirectly nitrogen from the air. Using all the water & all the sun available in one place throughout the year is the challenge of agrinature.

This means that the only input into this farming practice is solar power. Therefore we will take care to observe that the plants present can make use as much as possible of these two resources given to all. - sunlight & water from precipitation.

At least two parts of the production is intended for the manufacture of soils & one part taken as food. We intervene as little as possible in order to leave the living beings of the field ecosystem free to work according to their own nature.

So that these beings can exist, we must prohibit the use of synthetic substances that the living one does not know how to metabolize. It is diversity which ensures all the required functions & this by means of the biological complementarity of beings.

The notions of pedogenesis are the essence of agrinature: the Earth must become earthy again, remake its soils. At the scale of a century, agronomy will consider a combination of the two practices. Farmers, peasants and researchers will refine methods applicable on a larger scale & possibly simple & light machines. Those available today are too complex, too heavy on the ground & therefore too voracious in energy.

Small plots are the ideal case because the edges & borders are points of great biological wealth & because trees are needed to keep & build the soil. Local production also allows the return, the "recycling" of organic matter for self-fertilization.

Vegetables / practices 3 ° X

non-pulling & enriching: enriching by not pulling - non-weeding leads to increasing fertility

To snatch or not: that is the question. Restoring the health of a soil by gentle amendments, self-amendment & sowing & maintaining a permanent cover of fabaceae in the understory of our crops, will take up to seven years for the case of a soil very degraded. During this interim period, it is reasonable to weed a small garden in a non-violent way, that is to say by treating each weed individually in the awareness that we will have of its species. . In order to learn, all the intermediate stages are possible between the two extremes that are to tear the adventitia or to leave it in place, with in the middle position to cut it one or more times. This intermediate option consists of only cutting the grass without pulling it out. If the weed is really competitive in the spring, the beginner will pull it out & turn it over to prevent it from regrowing. Competition from the grasses expresses a soil condition that has not yet been restored & over time we will learn to tolerate them more. Conversely, if a tuft of clover was in an awkward position, it can be pulled out with its root ball & rested on the ground a little further away, with any chance of establishing itself again. When we pull the runners of a type 5 creeping weed by hand, we pull them out without pulling out the main part of the plant. This will weaken it, deplete its energy reserves, reduce its leaf mass. As long as its presence remains useful however, it will remain, taking into account the fact that the presence of each being in a place necessarily obeys precise conditions, even if most often the complexity of the interactions in question prevents us from stating them. The same can be done for type 2 tuft weeds: pulling in summer on only part of the tillers of the tuft allows these strands to be pulled out without exposing the soil. Weeding in itself is not prohibited in the conversion phase, provided that the torn grass is left on site, therefore without exporting. Classically, Fukuoka used a very sharp long-handled sickle & was content to cut unwanted weeds, including fabaceae or type 3 fertilizer weeds. It is true that if we cut in full vegetation - between flowering & fruiting - an erect weed , it loses most of its strength without however dying - which we do not want. On the other hand, it is prejudicial to expose the soil, because then its vital level would be reached, diminished: on the one hand, the area from which the grass is torn is found bare & consequently exposed to the harsh climate, & on the other hand, when uprooting, soil could adhere to the extracted roots. This is especially true in the case of tufted grasses - of type 2 - whose roots are in a thick bundle. In the context of a very small vegetable garden, this type of very meticulous weeding that would expose the soil very little is a transition option. However, I realize the uselessness, the vanity, the superfluity of this approach for a vegetable production on a larger scale or professional. The way of non-weeding is traced by a sowing carried out to perfection with regard to the species, the variety, the nutrition, the density & the date. In chapter 3 you will find an approach to what this idea can mean in terms of sowing. The species must be suitable for the land considered. The variety must be peasant seed or produced by us. The nutrient capacity of the soil must correspond in rotation to the species envisaged. The density must be close to the density allowed by the development of the plants at term. The date must be on a good moon before a rain shower. The biodynamic lunar calendar is a precious help in anticipating the weather. To achieve these sowing criteria, we need to disturb the soil as little as possible. This notion has been known to gardeners for several generations already.

production & labor requirements

During the first years, we will only be able to sow very rustic vegetables - beans, peas, radishes, turnips, rutabaga, parsley, chard, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, squash - or then sow in clods, pots or cells & then Transplant the seedlings directly into the EVA canopy lawn. We will also have to accept a low production commensurate with this low initial potential of our soil. In the presence of creeping weeds of the dog type, we will have to wait, install an ARE cover of mustard - buckwheat, millet, sorghum - for example in May, at the beginning of the Chinese summer. If we let the cover go to seed, we could sow in September or a month before the first frosts an EVA of perennial fabaceae, the archetype of which is white clover or alfalfa according to which of these two plants is spontaneous instead of in cause. In August, at the beginning of the Chinese autumn of the following year, we will sow an EVA of crimson clover where we will be able to carry out the following sowing & planting in the fall - September - & in the spring - February - following. The key to success is an ideal planting date. The ideal date is a subtle datum to discover, the result of long-term experience mixed with intuition. On any open strip, the clovers or other selected EVA fabaceae are scattered. Once this sowing is carried out under these strict conditions of excellence, if the species & the variety of the sown plant, & the date of sowing are in adequacy, weeding will be superfluous & the next operation will therefore be the harvest! Hence, it will soon become inevitable to produce our own seeds whenever we have found a variety that suits our land, with a view to improving it further.

As the soil becomes richer, the proportion of fabaceae increases. As the presence of febaceae increases in proportion in the lawn, the soil becomes richer. In more fertile soil, the width of the furrow that we will have to open before sowing will decrease accordingly: in very healthy soil, a line opened with a simple stick or a crowbar may be sufficient. This means that over the years the production capacity will increase & the need for labor will decrease. We therefore see how vital it is to nourish, repair the earth, let the soil heal, in peace, offer it all the time to mobilize its own unlimited capacities for regeneration. Through the continuous action of the beings who inhabit it, it will deepen itself, increase its humus content, structure itself, lighten up, lighten up & darken all at the same time, alter its fragrance, become tender & strong like a mother, to swell, to rise, to burst, to become a brown gold which will rejoice the hearts of those who love the earth. You will also have succeeded in obtaining a fallow & a crop - a non-crop, to be honest - simultaneously in the same place! We are dealing here with how to plant a vegetable garden without difficulty in any place with the only weapon being the patience to move forward step by step.

(1) Weeds-stem (1). (2) Weeds-forage, grasses (tufts) (2).

(3) Weeds-fertilizers, legumes (stems, creepers or tufts) (3).

(4) Adventices-rosette (4). (5) Creeping weeds (5).

8.4 start the garden in Chinese autumn (August) /

beet in grass - We see lamb's quarters, meadow clover, comfrey & those herbs which frighten the classic gardener, but are in fact excellent ground cover. The chard plant was produced by Sapoork who is a blessed gardener.

start the garden in chinese autumn (August) - the gradual transformation into EVA of an old meadow dense with leathery grasses

a comment on 10/15/2013:

The garden, the meadows are haunts of bindweed, with large flowers or small corollas. I know them a little now. The day before yesterday, it was a plant that I loved. Yesterday, a plant that I delighted in pulling the incredible roots out of the big hemp mulches. Today I would like the shamrocks that thrive in the aisles to greet them & keep them warm - so that they stay in bed. Do they indicate a particular type of soil?
marssfarm on 10/15/2013:
A single species is not enough to describe the place. It is a population, a group of indicator plants that could better characterize it. The bindweed is a liana, one of those plants which climb trees & shrubs. Its presence far from these woody trees indicates that the ground was stripped for a time.

We could dig a hole using a spade & a shovel to know the profile of the soil. The hole is a small vertical well the size of a shovel or a squared spade if the earth was extracted by hand or with a teaspoon.

Does the profile show horizons? What is the color, smell, grain size, structure of each of them? Where are the deepest roots? What animals live in this soil? How deep is the bedrock or the permanent water table?

What are the precedents? Are there spontaneous clovers & earthworms? The former feed the latter & vice versa. If clover is present, often it will be creeping dwarf white or meadow clover, known as purple. Does the meadow have type 5 or creeping grasses such as dogs which form runners, rhizomes & suckers or type 2 weeds forming vigorous tufts, long established grasses?

If clover is present, we can sow more of it, as well as other species of clover or other fabaceae. To this end it will be necessary before sowing to weaken the meadow in place if it is very dense & includes grasses of the two types mentioned above. For example, we can scarify the meadow with a rake before sowing to remove some of the excess tufts & rake it again afterwards to ensure better contact between the seeds and the soil.

Light organic amendments promote the establishment of clover: diluted urine for example or swill for rinsing dishes or laundry, without detergent. A moderate trampling or rolling helps the clover in its early stages. It is for these reasons, that it abounds near the frequented places.

In the meadow thus opened, one can also sow, except period of frost, plants whose roots go down deep. In autumn, vetches or peasants mixed with rye or oats, for example, are good examples, provided the seed is covered a little with a very fine mulch or mulch that the shoots of the sown plants can pass through. Autumn bean or pea or broad bean seeds if the climate allows it can also be planted five centimeters deep & twenty apart.

In the spring, beans can be sown in the same way. Potatoes or Jerusalem artichokes can also be planted in grass weakened by raking & light mulches & enriched by EVA seedlings & liquid amendments, plant manure, manure, dirty water, etc. As soon as the temperature allows it, very young plants of squash, chard, cabbage, tomatoes & salads can be introduced at good spacing in the meadow in the process of converting into EVA cover. Rows of radishes, turnips, carrots & parsley can be sown after opening narrow strips in the above named cover.

The natural garden is a happy mix that seems a mess to the neophyte or the old style gardener. It can be like a garden forest where various plants come together, are harvested & sown alternately. It can also approach the plan of a market gardener, with the only difference that the ground is not bare and that the troublesome plants are not pulled up, but only cut, except for the two types mentioned above - 5 & 2 - when the herbs in question are of too much vigor & too much presence, density.

The key to understanding is to

understand in his garden all the intrusives that will come or appear there,

knowing that they do it to manifest a situation, express a state, repair a disorder.

To sow EVA & ARE the number of species is endless.

You can try your hand at it depending on what the biome that inhabits you, shelters you, lodges you,

sussure to your donkey ears, intimate to your tastevin nose.

The gradual transformation of the meadow into EVA of perennial clovers can prove to be difficult if they were absent at the start or on the contrary very easy if they are present. In case of difficulty, prefer a cover of clovers & other annual fabaceae that will have to be renewed & which can be maintained by high and infrequent clippings at the beginning of flowering.

wheat, grasses (poaceae), papilionaceae (fabaceae) & messicoles. - photo Bruno

before seeing the result in March (Chinese Spring) - to be continued.

  • Preparing the soil at the end of summer for a vegetable garden:

If the cover is grass for a long time established & poor in clovers, the Grelinette is a good starting compromise. In such a case, I would weed - single act - in the summary way on the width of a Grelinette, leaving the grassy paths & leaving the debris removed from the ground in place. No need to completely weed, just remove the runners - in practice quackgrass. Then sow a mixture of ten clovers - EVA - at a rate of at least ten kilograms or liters per hectare on the strip & the alley. Sow, when the arachnid webs hatch & shine under the moonlight.

We can also choose to sow mustard - ARE - at the density of ten kilograms per hectare, crimson clover - EVA - at the same density & vetch in September at the same density. Roll or mulch lightly to cover the seeds. If your rotation foresees crucifers - brassicaceae - next year, you should use a frost species other than mustard, buckwheat for example.

If the starting meadow has at least a third of volunteer clovers, we can choose to sow mustard in July in the meadow that we will cut right after to cover the seeds, then incarnate in August before cutting or rolling the mustard. . In September, finally sow the vetch, ten to twenty kilograms per hectare in this new cover just before rolling it to cover the seeds.

In the spring, you can plant all the vegetables except the liliaceae in the clover or sow them by opening a row. What I am writing here is experimental: do not divulge it until you have seen the result in March & September next.

Ask the nearby organic farmers for advice - with benevolence, confidence, mistrust, caution, overlap & discernment - to refine your mastery in terms of dates & densities that they probably know with precision.
If a tractor is available, it is permissible to plow once, as long as it does not start again next year. A cultivator or an Actisol have the advantage of not inverting the horizons of the soil & thereby affecting less the fauna & the microflora, but their use requires three passages spaced ten days apart.

One can also sow on part of the land wheat from the Peasant Seeds Network, rye, oats or meslin at a density of the order of one hundred kilograms per hectare, i.e. two-thirds or half of what 'it is conventionally required. This lower density will favor the tillering of cereals & allows us to sow clovers there from February at the rate of five kilograms per hectare four times, it would be a good preparation of this area for the vegetable garden after the harvest.

ARE before the first frosts (Chinese winter)& EVA alone after - to be continued.

If the plot is large & covered with old grasses, we will use the two means of removing running grasses from one part of the land (1) to mulch the other (2).

It is not a question of weeding, but just getting rid of type 5 grasses - according to the nomenclature defined in chapter five - on the strips under cultivation. In the mulch amendment of part 2, we can also use all debris & organic waste without limit or restriction: branches, pruning & mowing products, garbage before composting & toilet compost.

  • Zone 1 will be seeded in its strips & aisles of ARE & EVA before the first frosts & EVA alone after.

yarrow, pearl yarrow, anise agastache, common columbine, Anthemis tinctoria, Anoda cristata, Arcotis venustata, cornflower, white broth, borage, Campanula medium, agglomerated bellflower, round leaf bellflower, rapunzel bellflower, wild teasel, teasel fuller's, wild carrot, milk thistle, donkey thistle, lamb's quarters, wild chicory, wheat chrysanthemum, white companion Silene latifolia, poppy, garden coquelourde, sulphurous cosmos, cynoglossus, foxglove, Moldavian dracoccephalus, Eschscholtzia, fennel, meadow geranium, wallflower ravenelle, immortelle with monstrous bracts, ladies' julienne, usual blue flax, yellow flax, red flax, perennial flax, lopezia, trefoil, white lupine, Russel's lupine, meadow daisy, odorless matricaria, Mauritanian mallow, musk mallow, white sweet clover, officinal sweet clover, St. John's wort, white mustard, lunar papal money, wheat nielle, nige Damascus Island, Oriental Nigella, Carthusian Carnation, Biannual Evening Primrose, Lamarck's Evening Primrose with Red Sepals, Donkey's Acanthus Onopordon, Pastel, Dyers' Pastel, Annual Lark's Foot, Burnet, Phacelia, lanceolate plantain, sweet pea , variegated single large-flowered purslane, Reseda luteola, fragrant reseda, soapwort, buckwheat, common sage, clary sage, star scabious, field scabious Knautia arvensis, scabious columbaria, marigold, miniature marigold, tansy, tithonia, crimson clover, sunflower small-flowered, Trigonella cearulea, Verbascum thapsiforme, goldenrod, speedwell, harvest violet, common viper, Viscaria oculata

Companion plants, friendly plants. The lists that I have found are sometimes contradictory and require a minimum synthesis. My biggest problem of the day is the slugs! Yet having watched one drink in a puddle recently moved me. A small gastropod mouth, it's cute! Drinking, it was radical for me, in pure earthly affection. In spite of the violence that I've never had for them anyway, I take them across the river when I crack - a list of repellants is my last. DESIRE!

If the total space of the garden is large enough, we can move the place of the vegetable garden & in the area previously used, sow crimson clover or mustard in August for example. If the plants are sick, it is because they are poorly adapted to the place. In this case, look for peasant or local seeds. From ten degrees at night, tomatoes not specially selected for their resistance to cold, take on mildew. My neighbor keeps the seeds of his first tomato as seed for the next year.

vegetable sowing trials EVA ARE

(stratify to break dormancy)

Hiroshima & Fukushima - sow plants commonly called vegetables in March - - named vegetables in March - sowing vegetables - This article was written in two stages.

The photo reveals a practice very contrary to Agrinature that we attempted in March 2011, at the time of the accident in Fukushima, Daishi. Working with a rotovator, commonly known as a milling cutter, has little advantage. It pulverizes the soil, destroys its structure, erodes it because of the dust of its clays, silts & humus then emitted will be partly carried by the wind, even on days when all wind seems absent to us. It thus also weakens its texture, attracting it towards the coarse mineral, reducing its contents in the subtle elements of fertility.

Milling a soil also mixes the horizons & thus interrupts its humification while accelerating the mineralization of the humus particles which will be too exposed to the agents of the climate & to the sunlight. Fraiser also brings out the seeds of weeds which had remained dormant until then, fragments & multiplies the rhizomes of tough weeds of poor soil, the most famous of which form the immortal group of dogs. The Rumex & thistles genera will not be left out either, favored in their fructification by the disturbance of the horizons which at the same time blocks & precipitates humification.

The least harm that a strawberry does is not the fact that it finally kills many of the fauna of the soil, earthworms, lizards, snakes, rodents, orvets. It should also be noted that the operation is voracious in energy & material fatigue. To conclude, we see that what a strawberry applies to a soil is similar in all these respects & in proportion to the microcosm that is the pedon, to the three explosions which occurred following the flooding of the power station at Daiishi le March eleven eleven to eleven - eleven p.m. KST. - 140404

We start sowing vegetable crops - commonly called vegetables - in March. After winter, the bands are occupied by dwarf white clover, wild grasses & quackgrass. The paths were marked by the passages of the tractor & the gardeners, and the ground is therefore more compacted, which gives the illusion that we have established the bands on teenagers or ridges. This is not the case. The teenage shape is an artefact due to the settlement in the aisles. We avoid as much as possible walking on the strips so as not to compact the ground. In the alley, the proportion of clover is greater because this genus supports & appreciates trampling. We keep & preserve the ridged shape of the bands, because it constitutes a favorable artefact by the draining effect that it induces. During the winter, in the event of repeated & insistent rains, the excess water from the land can flow slowly into the alleys. At the start of the farm, we took great care & ensured the preliminary construction of retention basins at the lowest point of each plot or erosion could occur, so even slow draining flows do not cause any thinning of the soil. ground. In the alleys, we harden & amend the soil by adding exogenous limestone stones & twigs & branches, according to the unfragmented rameal wood method described in article 6.8. In the band on the left, the clover cover is about fifty percent & the other half of the surface is mainly occupied by quackgrass, a plant which prohibits any sowing because it covers the ground exclusively & even forms a good carpet. thickness of roots, rhizomes, debris & shoots. On the bands on the right, we have opened two lines of forty centimeters wide each by the work of a rotavator. The paths will remain grassed, as well as the edges & the center of the strips. It would be useful to reseed clover there at a density of five kilograms per hectare, but this year's budget will not allow us to purchase the necessary seed for this. In the center of each row, we sowed with a manual wheeled vegetable seeder. After harvesting the vegetable plants, we will sow winter vetch in October at the rate of ten kilograms per hectare in order to cover the soil until spring. - 121212

Using a rotavator is a form of very shallow tillage, and before sowing we removed the quackgrass tufts from the soil with a manure hook. These two operations no longer coincide exactly with the method that Fukuoka defines: - no tillage, no weeding. See in this regard the preamble. Nous avions en 2011 tenté cette pratique & réalisé assez vite qu'elle est à proscrire. - 140404

We start sowing vegetables in March.

At the end of winter, we find our bands covered with white dwarf clover, weeds & dog-grass. On the narrow paths that exist between bands, where the soil was trampled by the tractor & the gardeners, the level is lower. We try as much as possible not to step on the bands. The difference in altitude between bands & paths was not created out of our will, but just as a consequence of this discipline of ours: walk only on the paths & as far as it is possible, not on the bands. However, we find such a configuration helps drain the excess water after heavy rainfall.

Prior to anything, we designed & settled a small dam at the lower point of the plot in view to retain any soil that would be carried away by rain. In a nutshell, the excess water can evacuate the plot, but it will not erode the soil. Clover benefits from being trampled & for that reason, it is found on the paths. Any stone extracted from the soil is kept on those too & we bring moreover lime stones & twigs to make the soil harder there. Article 6.8 tells about how beneficial live twigs are to a soil. We can see on the picture that the left band is half covered with clover & the other half is taken mainly by dog-grass, a hardy weed which creates a thick mat onto the soil & forbids any sowing. On the bands on the right side of the picture we opened two sixteen inch wide lines by means of a rotavator. On the paths, the sides & center of the bands, grass & clover remain & we could sow some more clover there. At the middle of each line, we sowed vegetables with the help of a drill. After we harvest the vegetables in autumn, we will sow winter vetch, ten kilogrammes per hectare in order to keep, protect & cover the soil in the winter.

Using a rotavator meant working a very shallow cultivation of the soil & before sowing, we removed with the help of a fork the tufts of dog-grass. Doing those two acts meant we diverged from two rules of the method Fukuoka had settled : no cultivation, no weeding. As a result of those two dire mistakes, the vegetable sown did not produce anything worth mentioning!

labourer un sol lui cause grand dommage - vetch

Labourer un sol lui cause grand dommage. Notre devoir éthique est de révérer précieusement les principes de Fukuoka comme la trame de la méthode, un idéal à atteindre lorsque tous les paramètres agronomiques d'une parcelle deviennent optimaux. Pourtant, avant que le sol d'une parcelle pauvre ne devienne assez riche pour qu'Agrinature puisse lui être appliquée sans réserve, désormais nous travaillerons le sol au rotavator avant semis. Ce travail doit être toujours effectué à la profondeur la moindre & la vitesse la plus rapide qu'il est possible. Son seul objet est de veiller à empêcher la présence des chiendents & autres adventices de type rampant (5). Par ailleurs, pour remplacer les trèfles, plantes vivaces pour la plupart, qu'il est trop difficile d'installer & trop aisé de détruire, la vesce d'automne, légumineuse annuelle de haute taille & grimpante, sera semée en leur lieu & place. Dans les parcelles de céréales, nous sèmerons dix kilogrammes de graines de moutarde blanche par hectare pour fabriquer un engrais vert après un passage de rotavator ensuite de la moisson, pratique qui équivaut à utiliser un semoir direct de type Howard. En septembre & octobre, la céréale suivante selon la rotation, en mélange de vesce à la proportion de dix pour cent, est installée en semis direct au semoir ordinaire dans la moutarde vivante que les gelées d'automne détruiront peu après. La vesce se moissonne avec la céréale & peut au besoin par la suite en être séparée par un trieur alvéolaire.

Ploughing it is greatly detrimental to a soil.

Ploughing it is greatly detrimental to a soil. We keep dearly Fukuoka principles, for they are the backbone of our practice, Agrinature. It became obvious however that those principles work well mainly in fertile soils & that we have to find yet ways to obtain good or average results even before the soil of a plot has not yet attained its full potential capacity. That is why we are going to use a rotavator before sowing. When doing that, two conditions must be observed: the work should be as shallow & as fast as possible. Most species of clover are perennial plants & take time to become well established on a plot, but are easily destroyed. That is why we are going to use "vesce" instead of clover. This tall plant of the legume family grows like cereals on a yearly cycle. On the plots where cereals are grown, we will use the rotavator very soon after harvest & then sow white mustard seed, ten kilogrammes per hectare. The mustard is going to grow in August & September in view to become what is called green manure. In October we will sow directly, but with an ordinary drill the next cereal mixed with ten percent vetch in the still growing mustard. Soon later, the mustard will freeze & wither. Vetch & cereal seeds are sown & harvested together. Later, they can be separated if needed with the help of a fit separator.

établir/potager EVA couper/adv. clay balls semisdirect /

La graine de carotte neigera bientôt. -

La carotte passa l'hiver sous la neige au milieu du trèfle. Elle va cet an produire des graines pour l'an prochain.

établir un potager / EVA / couper les adventices / billes d'argile / semis direct /

* un maraîchage le plus proche de la nature

Nous allons désormais envisager la pratique d'Agrinature pour la production de potagères. Observons tout d'abord la parcelle qui doit être mise en culture.
Quelles sont ses conditions écologiques, le climat de la région, le climat particulier de la parcelle compte-tenu de sa topographie, & de sa situation? La parcelle est-elle entourée de haies, par exemple, ou faudra-t-il prévoir d'en planter? Nous devons savoir quelle est la roche-mère du sol afin d'envisager l'évolution ultérieure possible de celui-ci. Il y a lieu de creuser une fosse pédologique afin de connaître le profil & la profondeur du sol. Quelle est son alimentation en eau? Est-il frais, léger ou trop humide? Faudra-t-il prévoir des points d'eau, une irrigation, des rigoles ou des fossés de drainage? Une étude de la flore présente & alentour nous renseigne sur la capacité biologique du sol. La rencontre avec des voisins peut nous informer sur les espèces & variétés de légumes adaptés au lieu. Toutes ces questions tendent en un premier temps vers la réponse à notre seule interrogation: quels légumes vais-je pouvoir établir en ce terrain? Nous n'envisageons d'installer que des plantes qui pourront croître sans difficulté notoire,

  • sans modification radicale du milieu,
  • sans apport démesuré d'engrais, fumiers ou amendements,
  • sans risque de maladies.

Ces précautions sont préambule à adopter la pratique la plus proche de la nature qu'il est possible.

a market-garden close to nature

Let us see now how to grow vegetables within Agrinature. When starting a market-garden, we need first thing to know about the land, the plot where we intend to establish it. What are its ecological situation & the climate of the area? Within that, what is the particular climate of the plot, depending on its topography & surroundings? For instance, do there exist hedgerows around it, or must we see to plant some? What is the mother-rock of the soil, the kind of rock we find when digging deep? The nature of the former indicates how & toward what the latter can evolve. Digging a short trench is the way to know the soil's profile & depth. What is its capacity to store water & let it be used by plants? Is this capacity good enough, or is the soil light, sandy, dry, or on the opposite heavy, clayey, sticky,or humid? Are we going to need digging a pond, a well where we can water our garden from, or trenches in order to drain the land. Studying the flora that exists on & around the place is going to give us a precise idea of today's biological condition of the soil. When meeting the neighbours, we can ask them which species & kinds of vegetables can be grown in this area. With so many a question, we are hinting at one point alone: what are the vegetables we are going to be able to let grow in this garden? We consider we are to install only plants fit to grow there

  • without too much fuss or hardship,
  • without any radical & forceful change in the land's nature,
  • without huge needs for fertilisers, manure or amendments.
  • without too much risk of seeing them catch a disease.

We have to ask these questions beforehand, because the practice we are about to adopt in our vegetable-garden will be as close to nature as possible.

* Engrais vert : toute plante légumineuse convient.

En vue de préparer le terrain, la toute première opération est de semer l'engrais vert, une plante de la famille fabacée. Cette couverture du sol est destinée à demeurer en permanence une fois installée. Au fil des ans, elle enrichira le sol en azote, le rendra fertile & meuble. Toute plante légumineuse convient. Les plus courantes sont les trèfles. La luzerne peut être préférée pour ses qualités éminentes. Cependant, elle ne peut prospérer qu'en sol bien drainé & d'un pH proche de la neutralité. La plante engrais travaille en association, en symbiose avec une bactérie. En cas d'absence ou de très faible présence préalable, il peut y avoir lieu d'inoculer les semences avec cette même bactérie. De trèfles, il existe plusieurs espèces. Les plus courantes sont le trèfle blanc nain rampant & le trèfle violet qui est une plante de plus grande hauteur. La minette est une espèce de luzerne sauvage. Il est utile de planter des arbres, arbustes ou buissons de cette même famille légumineuse autour ou dans la parcelle. Citons pour mémoire, les acacias, robiniers, mimosas, féviers, cytises. Leur feuillage est léger. Les aulnes sont également des arbres qui fixent l'azote atmosphérique. Avant le semis de l'engrais vert, labourer la parcelle avant le semis est une méthode parfois nécessaire. D'autres solutions plus conformes à Agrinature existent pour réduire la pression de présence des adventices naturelles. Ainsi, l'usage répété de divers cultivateurs ou herses au cours de l'été précédent le semis provoquera la levée de nombreuses graines – ce que l'on nomme faux-semis. Un semoir direct, c'est-à-dire sans labour préalable, un semoir ordinaire, ou le semis à la volée conviennent tous trois. En Limousin, les périodes de semis des trèfles sont mars à mai, puis d'août à octobre. Les graines de trèfle sont petites & semées en surface. Elles bénéficient d'être roulées ou piétinées. Il sera bon en conséquence de prévoir le passage d'un rouleau après le semis & plusieurs fois durant l'année qui suivra.
Dix-huit mois sont nécessaires à l'installation de l'engrais vert. Durant cette période, il va peu à peu se substituer aux adventices, réduire leur dominance. Sauf en période de sécheresse, une fois qu'il est bien établi dans le terrain, la coupe du trèfle favorise sa repousse en touffes, & donc son accru sur les autres adventices. Durant le temps d'installation de l'engrais vert, il est souhaitable également d'établir les planches de culture, ou plus précisément les allées de passage. Les planches sont permanentes. Les allées n'existent que parce qu'elles sont parcourues souvent par la tracteur ou le jardinier, & le sol en conséquence y est plus tassé. Rien d'autre ne les distingue des planches, hors saison de culture.

As green manure, any leguminous plant will do.

We are now going to prepare the ground. The first thing to do in this purpose is to sow green-manure, a plant of the leguminous family. This ground-cover is meant to stay permanently, but achieving its instalment takes for that reason a bit of time & care. When fully established, the manure-plant will gradually enrich the soil with nitrogen, making it more fertile & supple year after year. Any leguminous plant will do. The various kinds of clover are the most commonly fit for that. Lucerne is of the best type, but it can grow well only on a good-natured soil, neutral & well drained. The green-manure works in co-operation – symbiosis – with a bacteria able to catch nitrogen from the atmosphere. If the plant we want to sow was completely or almost absent beforehand, it may be useful to inoculate the seeds with this bacteria. There exist several species of clover. The most common are the very short white clover, & purple clover which can grow two feet high. Other leguminous species can be used if they are better fit to comply with the climate & soil conditions of the place. This group of plants includes tree & bush species. Examples of those are Mimosas, Acacias, Robinia, Gleiditshia, Laburnum, brooms. They can be planted or sown around the field, or sparsely in it for they foliage is not thick. Alders enrich the soil in nitrogen too. In case hard spontaneous weeds were strongly established on the plot, ploughing of the land in view to prepare it might be necessary, although it would be more in tune with Agrinature to do as follows: along the previous summer before sowing green-manure, make use on the plot repetitively of different types of cultivators or harrows. Every time we scratch the ground, weed seeds sprout & then those young weeds are bound to wither & die the next time, as the process goes on & we repeat the operation. In order to sow clover, we can use either a direct drill – i.e. without ploughing - or a classical one, or just hand-sow if the plot is not too large. In the centre of France, clover is to be sown either from March through May & from August through October. The seeds are small & sown on the soil. They benefit when tramped or rolled over, & it would be useful if this was done several times along the first year after sowing. It takes green-manure plants eighteen month to become well established on the land, for they transform the soil as they grow. Along that period the green-manure is going to compete with common weeds & in doing so, reduce their strength & presence in a slow substitution process. At the end of this time, once it is well established & because clover grows as tufts - except at the full heat of summer - every time the grass is cut, clover tends to overcome & subdue the other weeds. While waiting one year or so for the clover or lucerne to grow strong enough, we have time to design the patch-bands of our market-garden. These bands where the vegetables are going to be sown will be permanent, each separate from the next by a narrow alley. At this stage, there is no difference between a patch-band & an alley, except that the soil on the alleys is harder because it is tramped by the gardener's foot or the tractor's wheel.

trois chicorées tranquilles -

Trois chicorées laissées l'an dernier veulent engrainer le champ. Nous devrons cueillir la semence avant qu"elle ne s'égrène. -

* Adventices : tout reste au sol en paillage.

Dans la planche de trèfle, nous pouvons semer directement les légumes en été & en automne. Sous le trèfle, le sol est tendre, protégé des intempéries. Mettre des graines dans un bol ou une boîte à fond plat, & transporter cette boîte.dans un grand saladier en plastique ou une cuvette, pour éviter de la renverser. Prendre une graine entre pouce & index & l'implanter ainsi dans le sol naturellement meuble. Planter graine à graine, à l'écartement dont ont besoin les légumes à terme. Au cas où l'usage d'un plantoir ou d'une tige de bois pointue s'avéreraient utiles, c'est signe que le sol est trop dur, rendant ensuite la germination difficile. Semer en ligne permettra de voir plus facilement les plants lorsqu'ils sortiront. Par sécurité, on peut semer plus serré, mais il faudra par la suite éclaircir en arrachant les pousses surnuméraires. Nous dirons comment réaliser les semis de printemps dans les articles suivants. Les jardiniers peuvent choisir de mêler les espèces compatibles ou complémentaires pour optimiser l'utilisation du potager les maraîcher cependant éviteront les mélanges, afin de simplifier les récoltes. Dès que la germination a lieu, passer dans les allées pour couper à la serpe le trèfle & autres adventices qui pourraient dominer les plants. Fukuoka utilisait une serpette très effilée & à très long manche. Dès que le légume atteint une taille suffisante, il domine les herbes & leur concurrence n'empêche alors plus sa croissance. Progressivement, nous apprendrons à connaître les adventices autochtones du terrain & les nouvelles venues aussi, lesquelles présentent un danger de concurrence & celles dont l'extension est facile à prévenir. A l'article 5.2 # 2 nous classâmes les herbes selon cinq types morphologiques. Seules les plantes du type rampant (5) sont parfois dangereuses, car elles peuvent couvrir le sol très vite du fait qu'elles n'ont que peu besoin de s'enraciner. En ce cas il faut tirer les parties coureuses de la plante – stolons – avec la main. Arracher en tirant vers le haut ne crée pas de dommage sous trois conditions:

  • nous laissons la plante arrachée sur place sans l'emporter
  • en tirant la plante verticalement, aucune terre n'adhère à ses racines
  • & le sol ne devrait pas en conséquence être dénudé du fait de cet acte.

Si nous voyons qu'arracher ainsi est impossible, alors il faut y renoncer & couper simplement l'adventice. Nous ne souhaitons pas vraiment l'éradiquer, mais seulement la limiter. Les adventices coureuses & proliférantes doivent être limitées. Ce type d'herbe est caractéristique des sols appauvris. A mesure que le trèfle enrichira le terrain, leur présence s'amoindrira. Elles seront remplacées par les trois autres types d'adventices qui peuvent être contrôlées en les coupant haut & court à diverses saisons. Dans le contrôle des adventices, tout ce qui est coupé reste au sol sur place en mulch ou paillage.

Weeds : every cut grass becomes mulch.

  • we pull it vertically
  • when it comes out, no matter of the soil stays attached to its roots
  • i.e. to pluck it does not amount to exposing any soil bare on any extent.

If we see those three conditions cannot be met with, to cut the weed is the thing to do instead. Weeds of the creeping type are very invasive & reveal a soil which has been deteriorated, impoverished, ill-treated. As the clover grows & enriches the ground, they will gradually disappear & be replaced by the three other types – clover is one of them – that can be controlled just by being cut short & high at different times & seasons. When controlling the weeds & clover in order to keep the vegetables clear of them, every cut grass stays on the ground & becomes mulch.

* Nendo dango : semer en billes d'argile - Nendo dango is the Japanese for clay balls.

Constituer des boules d'argile, comme décrit à l'article 8.3 nous permet de semer à l'avance. Les billes sont alors simplement jetées sur le sol dans le trèfle. La pluie attendrira la bille & la graine germera au temps venu. Il est également possible de réaliser les semis dans des plaques d'alvéoles de maraîchage ou de pépinière. Les plus petites plaques de pépinière ont des alvéoles de la taille d'un index. Peu après la germination, planter le légume sans attendre, au stade une feuille, lorsqu'il est jeune & capable de s'adapter à ce changement. Dans le sol meuble sous le trèfle, faîtes un trou avec votre index, un plantoir ou une tige de bois effilée & introduisez-y la motte. Les salades ne doivent pas être plantées au-dessous du niveau du sol. Un peu au-dessus n'est pas gênant. A l'inverse, les choux & poireaux sont plantés profond. Arroser sans délai & sans faute après plantation. Notez que si nous plantons des choux ou des poireaux dont l'exigence en azote est grande, la couverture de trèfles EVA ne suffirait pas seule à satisfaire ces besoins & qu'un apport en fumure aurait en ce cas dû être donné à l'automne ou e fin d'hiver en la dite bande. Planter en mottes permet d'économiser les graines & de mieux surveiller les limaces & les adventices. Le jardinier sûr de sa pratique sème directement & à densité définitive, comme indiqué à l'article précédent. Cela n'est réalisable cependant qu'en été & en automne: au printemps, il y a lieu de prendre plus de précautions comme nous le verrons plus loin dans les articles suivants. Les semis en billes d'argile & en alvéoles sont des alternatives précieuses en cas de difficulté. De même, si vous n'avez pas la capacité d'attendre un an & demi après le semis de l'engrais vert ainsi que décrit à l'article 9.8, une plantation en motte peut être faite la première année en une ligne unique au centre de chaque planche. Une meilleure alternative consisterait, après avoir semé du trèfle sur la totalité de vos terrains, de n'en utiliser que la moitié durant les deux premiers ans. Puis alterner au cours des deux années suivantes. Lors de l'arrachage des pommes de terre ou des légumes-racines, la couverture de trèfle se trouve entamée. Il est de ce fait nécessaire de le ressemer en regarni un peu chaque année aux dates convenues – au début du printemps & au début de l'automne & après chaque intervention qui dénude un peu le sol entre ces deux dates.

nendo dango : clay-balls for vegetables

We described the making of clay balls in article 8.3. Enclosing our seeds in clay balls is an efficient way to prepare for sowing. Drop the balls unto the soil in the clover can be done some time before the best time for sowing, for a seed in a clay ball is able to wait for a while. Rain is going to soften the clay & when time is right, the seed will sprout. A third alternative is to sow the vegetables in nursery cell-trays. Some of them have the exact size of a forefinger. Plant the vegetables soon after they have sprouted, as soon as their first leaf is out, for at that early stage they are still adaptable to any disturbance. Under the clover, the soil is tender. Poke your finger, a dibble or a sharpened stick into the soil, & then substitute the young plant to it. Salads must be planted at the right level, not even slightly lower than the ground level. If planted too deep, they refuse growing. On the opposite, cabbages & leeks are to be planted deep. As soon as possible, water the newly planted vegetables, for only then full contact between roots & soil is achieved. Planting young sprouts takes a bit more effort than direct sowing. We do it in order to avoid wasting precious seeds, or as a way to controlling slugs when those are too many & tend to eat our tender shoots before they can grow. But if you are experienced enough & know what you are doing, it is always best to sow directly the seeds one by one & at the right distance from each other as described in the previous article. However it can be done only as summer & autumn sowing – spring sowing will be described in further articles. Clay balls & nursery cell-trays are two ways out of trouble to begin with. In article 9.8 we said it would be good to wait & let the clover establish & grow a year & a half before we started using the land. If you cannot afford waiting so long, the first year you can plant in the new-born clover, young vegetables sown beforehand in cell-trays as a single line only, right in the middle of the patch-band of the growing clover. A best alternative would mean to let the clover grow free for two years on half of your land, & use only the other half along that time. Then, alternate the next two years. When plucking out underground vegetables like potatoes, we damage the clover cover of the soil. That is the reason why we need sowing clover seeds anew a bit every year at the two fit times – the beginning of spring & the beginning of fall – & every time even a tiny spot of soil lies bare for a reason or other between those two appointed times.

* semis de printemps dans le trèfle

Il est très difficile de réaliser les semis de printemps graine à graine dans le trèfle comme décrit à l'article 9.9 car à cette saison les herbes adventices - dont le trèfle fait partie - croissent trop vite. Un millimètre de précipitation au printemps fait croître une herbe d'un centimètre environ ou parfois plus. Dans le cas des adventices rampantes, coureuses, on voit que nos légumes ont peu de chances de voir un jour le soleil, sauf si notre jardin avait la taille d'un mouchoir de poche, auquel cas il serait aisé d'intervenir tous les jours. Les grosses graines à germination prompte, haricot, pois, soja, fève, lupin, fèverole peuvent réussir cependant, ainsi que les céréales. Les petites graines à germination lente comme la carotte, le chou, le poireau, sont d'une toute autre catégorie. Avant de semer les légumes à grosses graines, il faut préparer une bande d'une largeur de vingt centimètres au moins. Pour les plantes à minuscules graines, la bande doit être de trente à quarante centimètres de large afin que nous ayons le temps de venir couper les adventices après chaque averse de pluie. Le standard de préparation de notre bande de semis de dix, vingt, trente ou quarante centimètres de largeur, variera aussi selon la nécessité, la difficulté du semis. Dans le premier niveau de difficulté, si nous avons un couverture complète de trèfle avec dix à vingt pour cent d'herbes naturelles ou sauvages & que nous souhaitons y semer de grosses graines, préparer la planche de semis consiste simplement à couper toutes ces adventices - trèfle & herbes - très ras, très court.

spring sowing in the clover cover

Seed by seed direct sowing in the clover cover, as described in article 9.9, is almost impossible to achieve in spring time, for it is the season when weeds – & clover is one among them – grow too fast. A millimetre of rain can cause a weed grow a centimetre at least, & sometimes even faster. If so, we see our tender shoots of vegetables have very few chances to come out one day, except in case our garden would be so small as to allow daily checks. Provided we be very careful cutting the grass, the big, fast-sprouting seeds of the legume family such as beans, broad-bean, small broad-bean, peas, soya, lupin could be sown this way however. Prepare a stripe-patch at least twenty centimetre wide - eight inches - where you can sow the legumes. The small, slow seeds of carrot, leek, cabbage or salad for instance belong altogether to another category. For sowing the tiny seeds, the stripe-patch should be thirty or forty centimetre wide - one foot to one foot four - so that creeping weeds will not invade it on a wet day before we had time to cut them. The standard width of the stripe of ground we must prepare before sowing – from ten to forty centimetres – increases according to how easy or difficult the operation may be. If clover covers the soil completely together with ten to twenty percent wild weeds & we are to sow big seeds, preparing of the stripe-patch just means cutting those grasses - weeds & clover - very short before sowing. That is the easy & ordinary case.

semis/printemps été automne synthèse/pratiques

CATALOGUE Lupinus mutabilis Sweet

1 CATALOGUE Lupinus mutabilis Sweet

2 Chers amis, chers jardiniers, L'entreprise La Boîte à Graines est une entreprise de vente de semences de légumes, de fleurs et de plantes rares provenant du monde entier. Nous sommes passionnés par le monde végétal et par la culture de ces plantes venant de l'autre bout du monde ou tout simplement par ces anciennes variétés cultivées par nos «grands-parents». Nous sommes heureux de vous faire partager notre passion au travers de ce catalogue de vente de semences. Notre petite entreprise artisanale cultive et produit une grande partie des espèces et variétés proposées à la vente. Dans ce catalogue, les plantes ne sont pas décrites car nous avons choisit de faire seulement figurer le conditionnement et le prix. Pour obtenir des informations sur les plantes, il suffit de se rendre sur le site internet de l'entreprise où l'ensemble des données sont accessibles. Pour le conditionnement, les quantités sont indiquées en grammes ou en nombre de graines. Pour vous aider, nous précisons sur la page internet de chaque variété, lorsque le conditionnement est en gramme, le nombre moyen de semences présentes dans le sachet pour le plus petit conditionnement. Nos semences sont conditionnées dans des sachets kraft de couleur marron. Nous précisons sur les sachets, les descriptions des plantes, les conseils de semis et de multiplication. Pour commander, vous pouvez soit utiliser le site internet et payer par carte bancaire, soit utiliser le bon de commande présent dans ce catalogue et le remplir en utilisant le panier du site internet (en particulier pour définir les frais de port). Les commande sont ensuite envoyées par mini-max ou collissimo en fonction du volume du colis. La Boîte à Graines organise aussi une vente de plants du 1 avril au 8 mai 2016 et sera présente sur plusieurs fêtes des plantes (le programme sera indiqué sur le site internet). La Boîte à Graines reste à votre disposition pour tout renseignements complémentaires et vous souhaite une heureuse année L'équipe de La Boîte à Graines GAEC LA BOITE A GRAINES La Corbinière L'Herbergement Courriel : site internet : Telephone :

3 AROMATIQUE ET MEDICINALE Aneth Anis Vert Basilic Cannelle Basilic Grand Vert Basilic Mrs Burns (citron) Basilic Thai Bourrache Céleris Perpétuel (Livèche) Cerfeuil Commun Cerfeuil Frisé Ciboulette Coriandre Cresson de Para (Spilanthes oleracea) Hysope Officinale Mélisse Officinale Moutarde Rouge Metis Oeillet Gem Mix Persil Frisé Vert Foncé Persil Géant d'italie Pimprenelle Raiponce Roquette cultivée Sarriette Annuelle Sauge Officinale Sauge Sclarée Sauge Sclarée Piemont Thé des Jardins (dracocephalum moldavicum) Thym d'hiver 50 graines 0, 2,70 CEREALE Amaranthe Golden Giant Quinoa Red Faro LEGUME-RACINE Betterave Chioggia Betterave Crapaudine Betterave Mac Gregor Favourite Betterave Noire d'égypte Carotte de Chantenay à Cœur Rouge Carotte Nantaise Carotte Rouge Sang Carotte Touchon

4 LEGUME-RACINE Chou rutabaga Wilhems Burger Cyperus esculentus (souchet comestible) Helianti (Helianthus strumosus) Navet Blanc Globe à Collet Violet Navet de Milan Rouge Navet de Nancy Navet de Norfolk à Collet Rouge Navet Jaune Boule d'or Navet Marteau Navet Zefa type Rouge Oca du Pérou (Oxalis crenata) Panais Demi Long de Guernesey Persil à Grosse Racine Hâtif Radis Flamboyant 3 (de tous les mois) Radis Noir Gros Long d'hiver de Paris Radis Noir Poids d'horloge Radis Rond de Sézanne (de tous les mois) Radis Rond Rouge Saxa Radis Violet de Gournay Salsifis Blanc Mammouth 20 tubercules 5 tubercules 10 tubercules 4 grammes 4 grammes 4 grammes 4 grammes 3,50 3,50 3,50 LEGUME-FEUILLE Cardon Rouge d'alger Céleri Tall Utah Chicorée Blonde à Cœur Plein Chicorée Cornet d'anjou Chicorée Pain de Sucre Chou Brocolis Violet du Cap Chou Brocolis Waltham Chou de Milan de Pontoise Choux Cabus Cœur de Bœuf Choux Fleurs Merveille de Toutes Saisons Choux fleurs Snow Ball Choux Noir de Toscane (hiver) Choux Précoce de Louviers Choux Red Russian (hiver) Choux Rouge Tête Noire 3 Corète Potagère (corchorus olitorius) Cresson Alénois Frisé Épinard Géant d'hiver Fenouil de Florence Zefa Fino 0,3 gramme 7 grammes 3,50

5 LEGUME-FEUILLE Fenouil Finale Laitue Divina Laitue du Bon Jardinier Laitue Gotte Jaune d'or (pommée de printemps) laitue Lollo Rossa (à couper) Laitue Merveille d'hiver laitue Merveille des 4 Saisons (pommée été automne) Laitue Pierre Bénite Laitue Reine de Mai Laitue Reine des Glaces Laitue Rougette de Montpellier Laitue Saint Antoine Laitue Saint Vincent Mâche à Grosse Graines de Hollande Mâche Vit Moutarde Rouge Métis Oseille Sanguine Bloody Dock Poireau Bleu de Solaise poireau Jaune Gros du Poitou Poireau Monstrueux d'elbeuf Poirée Bright Light Poirée Verte à Carde Blanche 2 (de Nice) Roquette cultivée Tétragone LEGUME-FRUIT Aubergine Africaine n'drowa Issia Aubergine Africaine n'goyo Aubergine Black Beauty Aubergine de Barbentane Aubergine Ronde Blanche à Œuf Aubergine Rotonda Bianca Sfumata di Rosa Aubergine Thai Long Green Aubergine Violette de Florence Benincasa hispida (courge cireuse) Citrouille Grise du Marais Vendéen Citrouille Rouge Vif d'etampes Concombre Kaiser Alexander Concombre Tanja Concombre Vert Long Maraîcher Concombre White Wonder 0,4 gramme 0,4 gramme 0,4 gramme 0,4 gramme 0,4 gramme 15 graines 4 grammes

6 LEGUME-FRUIT Cornichon de Bourbonne Courge Baby Boo Courge de Siam Courge Delicata Courge Melonette Jaspée de Vendée Courge Musquée Butternut Courge Musquée de Provence Courge Musquée Hikata Courge Musquée Loche du Pérou Courge Musquée Longue de Nice Courge Musquée Pleine de Naples Courge Musquée Sucrine du Berry Courge Pomme d'or Courge Spaghetti Courge Sweet Dumpling Courgette Black Beauty Courgette Blanche d'egypte Courgette de Nice à Fruits Ronds Courgette Genovese Courgette Gold Rush Courgette Mozewloskaya Courgette Nimba Courgette Odessa (semi-coureuse) Courgette Ortolana di Faenza Courgette Tondo di Piacenza Cyclanthère (Cyclanthera pedata) Cyclanthère Géant (Pepino Relleno) Fève d'aguadulce Giraumon Turban Gombo Feuerteufel Haricot Coco Type Paimpol Haricot Flageolet à Feuille d'ortie Haricot Km Red Noodle (Vigna sesquipedalis) Haricot Km Tapir (Vigna sesquipedalis) Haricot Lingot type Mogette Haricot Mangetout Contender Haricot Mangetout Delinel Haricot Mangetout Neckarkonigin (rames) Haricot Mangetout Selma zebre (rames) Haricot Saint Esprit à Œil Rouge Haricot Yin Yang 20 semences 100 gramme 80 grammes 40 graines 40 graines 3,50 4,50 5,00

7 LEGUME-FRUIT Jack Bee Little Kiwano Melon Ananas d'amérique Melon Charentais Melon Noir des Carmes Melon Petit Gris de Rennes Melothria scabra Morelle de Balbis (Solanum sisymbrifolium) Pastèque à Graine Rouge à Confire Pastèque Lune & Etoiles Pastèque Sugar Baby Pâtisson Blanc Physalis peruviana Physalis pruinosa Goldie Physalis Toma Verde Piment de Cayenne Piment Gorria (type Espelette) Pois Chiche Pois Mangetout Corne de Bélier (rames) Pois Mangetout Norli Pois Nain Merveille de Kelvedon Pois Nain Petit Provençal Pois Précoce de Mai (demi-ramant) Poivron Bastidon Poivron Boyanska Kapiya Poivron Doux Chocolat Poivron Doux Long des Landes Poivron le Petit Marseillais Poivron Oda Potimarron red Kuri Potimarron Uchiki Kuri Potiron Bleu de Hongrie Potiron Buttercup Potiron Doux Vert d'hokkaido Potiron Vert Olive Soja Black Jet Tomate Ananas Tomate Ananas Noir Tomate Black Cherry Tomate Black Prince Tomate Cerise 0,3 gramme 15 graines 80 grammes 80 grammes

8 LEGUME-FRUIT Tomate Chocolate Stripes Tomate Cocktail Tomate Cœur de Bœuf Tomate Colgar Tomate Cornue des Andes Tomate de Berao Tomate Evergreen Tomate Green Doctor's Frosted Tomate Green Zebra Tomate Indigo Rose Tomate la Carotina Tomate Marmande Hâtive Tomate Matina Tomate Merveilles des Marchés Tomate Miel du Mexique Tomate Montserrat Tomate Moonglow Tomate Muchamiel Tomate Napoli Tomate Noire de Crimée Tomate Noire Russe Tomate Or Gran Borghese Tomate Orange Queen Tomate Paul Robeson Tomate Poire Jaune Tomate Poire Rouge Tomate Promyk Tomate Pruden's Purple Tomate Red Zebra Tomate Roma Tomate Roman Candle Tomate Rose de Berne Tomate Russe Tomate Saint Pierre Tomate Tres Cantos Tomate Voyage Tomate White Wonder Tomate Yellow Currant Tomate Yellow Giant Belgium 0, s s 0,20 gramme 0, 0,20 gramme 0,20 gramme 0,20 gramme 0,20 grammes s 0, 0,20 gramme 3,20 3,20

9 FLEURS Adonis aestivalis Agastache foeniculum Agastache foeniculum Golden Jubilee Amberboa muricata Ancolie Jaune Anoda cristata Arctotis stoechadifolia var. Grandis Argemone platyceras Aristolochia fimbriata Asclepia speciosa Baselle Blanche Blumenbachia insignis Campanula rapunculus (Raiponce) Cardiospermum halicacabum (pois de cœur) Centaurea Black Boy Centaurea macrocephala Centratherum intermedium Ananas Sangria Cephalophora aromatica Ceratotheca triloba Cleome Helen Campbell Cleome Reine des Cerises Clitorea ternatea Coix lacryma jobi Coloquinte Poire Bicolore en Mélange Coloquinte Poire Striée Verte Coquelicot Cornichon Explosif (Ecballium elaterium) Cosmos sulphureus Coton Blanc Coton Erlene's Green Courge Éponge (Luffa cylindrica) Cresson de Para (Spilanthes oleracea) Crotalaria podocarpa Cucumis carolinus Cucumis dipsaceus Datura metel Digitale Apricot Dolique d'egypte Ruby Moon Emilia javanica Eryngium planum 40 graines 0,15 gramme 15 graines 50 graines 0,3 gramme 0,3 gramme 0, 2,70 2,20 3,50 2,70 2,70 3,20 2,90

10 FLEURS Gaillarde Arizona Sun Geranium robertianum Gourde 6B Shiro Gourde Apple Gourde Bouteille Bianca Gourde Canon Ball Gourde Hard Shell Warty Gourde Pelerine Gourde Plate de Corse Gourde Speckled Snake Hibiscus cannabinus Hunnemannia fumariifolia Hysope officinale Ipomoea Knowlian's Black Ipomoea muricata Ipomoea obscura Ipomoea quamoclit Ipomoea Split of Personality Ipomoea Stellar Pink Ipomoea transvaalensis Kedrostis leloja Kochia Lavatera arborea Variegata Lavatere Mont Blanc Lavatere Ruby Regis Leonotis nepetifolia var. Nepetifolia Leonotis ocymifolia var Ocymifolia Leonurus cardiaca Lopezia racemosa Lupinus mutabilis Lychnis chalcedonica Lychnis coronaria Millepertuis (Hypericum perforatum) Mimosa pudica Mina lobata Citronella Mina lobata Exotic Love Mirabilis jalapa Rose Muflier Black Prince Nicotiana mutabilis Nicotiana rustica Nigelle de Damas Bleu 25 graines 12 graines 15 graines 15 graines 0,05 gramme 4 grammes 0, s 2,70 2,70

11 FLEURS Oeillet Gem Mix Pavot de Californie Orange Pavot Drama Queen Pavot Lauren's Grappe Pavot Lilac Pompom Pelargonium alchemiloides Pelargonium australe Pelargonium capitatum Petunia integrifolia Polygonum orientale Proboscidea louisianica var. Rosea Quinoa Red Faro Ratibida columnifera Red Midget Ricinus communis Impala Ricinus New Zealand Purple Salpiglossis sinuata Salvia stepposa Sauge Sclarée Sauge Sclarée 'Piemont' Schizanthus pinnatus Solanum atropurpureum Solanum uporo Suzanne aux Yeux Noirs Tabac Blond de Virginie Teucrium hyrcanicum Thé des jardins (dracocephalum moldavicum) Tithonia rotundifolia Torch Tournesol Géant Tournesol Red Sun Tweedia caerulea Verbesina encelioides Vigna radiata (germe soja) Withania somnifera 50 graines 0, 25 graines 0,s 0,10 gramme 0,20 gramme 40 graines 50 graines 3,20 2,90 2,90

12 Ricinus communis L. 'New Zealand Purple' Phaseolus vulgaris L. 'Starazagorskie' Red Noodle Kilometer Bean (Vigna unguiculata (L.) Walp. 'Red Noodle') Peruvian Oca (Oxalis crenata Jacq.) Cosmos bipinnatus Cav. 'Picotee' Cucurbita moschata Duch. 'Full of Naples'

Ground : Well drained
Ph: 5.5 to 6.5
Location: Full sun exposure. This plant requires heat.

History: It should be noted that there are several forms of Cucumis africanus and that one of these forms gives a fruit that is not bitter and therefore edible. The form giving fruits that are not bitter has been preserved in Cape Town since the end of the 17th century.
Others: This plant and its fruits are not edible. It is found in the wild in a wide variety of areas such as meadows, pastures, drylands and some mountainous areas. Traditional African medicine uses the fruits, leaves or roots as an emetic, purgative and enema for various ailments. The boiled leaf, is used as a poultice.

Others: The generic name Ricinus means "tick" in Latin. The seed is so named because it has markings and a bump that makes it look like certain ticks. Castor oil contains ricinoleic acid which damages the intestinal mucosa and causes significant losses of water and mineral salts, hence its intense and irritating purgative action. Ricin, present in the plant and the seeds is a formidable toxin.

Seeds produced according to organic farming standards with permaculture techniques on living soil

Video: Grafting cactus areole with ferocactus? กราฟตมหนามแคคตส ดวยตอเฟอโร


  1. Fenyang

    Sorry, but I need another one. What else could that suggest?

  2. Branddun

    You are absolutely right. There is something in this and the idea is excellent, I support it.

  3. Welford

    full of FOOFOL !!!

  4. Enok

    In it something is. Thanks for the help in this question, I also find that more easily better ...

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