We cover clematis for the winter to save the flower until spring

 We cover clematis for the winter to save the flower until spring

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Recently, clematis have become extremely popular. In various garden centers, you can buy about two hundred species of these climbing vines of a wide variety of shades. Clematis is a perennial culture, they tolerate our winters well. But in preparation for winter, they also need attention.

How to properly cover clematis for the winter

All types of clematis can be divided into three groups depending on the period and method of their flowering.... Their pruning and the method of shelter will depend on this.

  1. Group 1. Clematis of this group bloom on the shoots of the last year, so they need to be especially carefully preserved in winter.
  2. Group 2. Clematis of this group bloom twice a year: the first - in May-June on the shoots of the last year, and the second, longer - in the second half of summer, on new shoots.
  3. Group 3. Group 3. These clematis bloom on the shoots of the current year, flowering is long, up to three months. In autumn, the shoots of clematis of this group can be cut off.

    In order for clematis to bloom after winter, it needs to be covered in autumn.

Shelter timing of clematis

You need to start sheltering clematis after the onset of stable frosts. In areas of the middle zone, this can be at the end of October, or even at the beginning of November. A little earlier, about two weeks, they do it in Siberia and the Urals. And in the southern regions, you can shelter in the second half of November.

Shelter rules depending on the species

There is a widespread belief that the main shelter for clematis is snow. But besides the snow, something also needs to be thrown onto the stems removed from the support.

In clematis of the first and second groups, it is important to preserve the shoots during the winter, on which flowering will begin in spring.

Step-by-step instructions: shelter scheme for clematis of the first and second groups

  1. We remove the clematis from the support and carefully twist the shoots into a ring. They should not be cut off, since next year the flowering will begin on the surviving shoots. But foliage and dried inflorescences must be removed so that they do not rot.

    Clematis shoots removed from the support are best laid in the form of a ring

    2. On top, throw in a small layer of branches or spruce branches to create an air cushion.

    To create an air cushion, clematis shoots laid on the ground are covered with spruce branches

    3. Cover the forefoot with two layers of non-woven fabric.

    On spruce branches, put a non-woven material in two layers

    4. If the winters are snowless, you can additionally create another air cushion of branches.

    From above the spunbond can be covered with another layer of spruce branches

    5. With the onset of real winter, it is required to constantly add snow to the shelter in the form of a mound.

    A snowy mound above clematis will make it possible for shoots to survive until spring

Additional cover with a film is possible, but at the same time it is necessary to leave vents so that the plant does not come out during the thaw.

If the winters in your region have little snow, you can huddle the base of the bush with garden soil in the fall. In this case, even if the upper shoots freeze, the buds in the ground will give new shoots in the spring.

Shelter of clematis of the third group

Clematis, which bloom on the shoots of the current year, practically do not require shelter. They can be huddled higher at the base and thrown over with spruce branches.

Clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year, it is enough to cover with spruce branches

Video: we cut and cover clematis

My clematis belong to the second and third groups. I cover them with spruce branches, having previously laid the whips on the spruce branches. From experience I know that if clematis takes root in the first two years, then it will be very tenacious in the future. The buds in the ground will surely be preserved and give new shoots.

Clematis will definitely thank you for your attention

You can admire the flowering clematis throughout almost the entire summer, if you pick up several varieties with different flowering periods. And the right shelter for the winter will help preserve them.

How, when and why to shelter trees for the winter

It's better not to joke with the unpredictable winter in Russia. Everyone needs protection from the cold, including trees. We will tell you how to properly cover conifers and fruit trees so that they overwinter safely.

How to protect trees for the winter from frost

The climate in Russia is unpredictable. We have learned to grow many plants that are historically uncharacteristic for our regions. However, some of them need good protection for a safe overwintering. How to cover trees for the winter correctly, so that the root system does not freeze, plantings do not die, and our summer cottage crops continue to please with the harvest?

Why hide

  • Firstly, plants need external protection to save themselves from cold weather, from freezing.
  • Secondly, the shelter prevents rodents from penetrating tree trunks and chewing on the bark.
  • A strong wind can cause damage to plants in winter, which can dry out the bark and break branches.
  • The spring sun too bright after winter is also unsafe for plants.
  • Gardeners also provide for the protection of trees from heavy snow, under the weight of which branches can break off.
  • To protect plants from these dangers, shelters are built and preventive measures are taken.

What trees should be covered for the winter

Plants are able to adapt to the climate. Those that have been growing in our area for a long time endure the winter cold quite successfully. In addition, gardeners are trying to grow zoned varieties of fruit trees, genetically hardened and ready for all the weather surprises inherent in the area where they grow.
Young trees need shelter that are not yet strong and are not adapted to fight cold weather, winds, sun and animals.
They harbor grapes, some conifers, but most of the energy is spent on protecting apple bushes in winter. We will tell you how to cover fruit trees for the winter.

How to prepare for shelter

  1. Preparation of plants for wintering begins in September after harvesting the fruits. Water the plants abundantly. You do not need to do this if September was rainy and the ground was already very wet. It is necessary to water the apple trees during the entire growing season, but it is the autumn watering that contributes to better overwintering.
  2. Pruning old and broken branches is also a must.
  3. It is necessary to fertilize with mineral fertilizers - phosphorus and potash. They increase the frost resistance of apple trees. It is important at the end of summer to stop applying nitrogen fertilizers, which contribute to rapid growth, which is not needed now. Simultaneously with the application of fertilizers, the soil is dug under the plantations.
  4. The tree trunks are insulated with sawdust or peat. Mulching will protect the root system from frost in winter and from excess water in spring.

How to cover trees for the winter

Traditional types of covering material:

  • branches of coniferous trees
  • sawdust
  • fallen leaves
  • agrofibre, lutrasil, other film coatings
  • jute, burlap, etc.

It is not recommended to use straw to protect trees during winter, as mice and other rodents grow in it.


From spruce branches, preference should be given to spruce. Due to small sharp needles, it does not allow pests to reach the roots of plants. Good and pine. The one and the other well protect trees from snow, rain, wind, frost, form a ventilated air gap under the sheltered part, and protect them from sunburn. Even in frosts of minus 30 and below, the temperature under such a shelter at the roots is -5 ° C.
When harvesting spruce branches, remember the need to protect forest plantations, do it carefully, trying not to harm the spruce or pine forest. And make sure that pests and diseases do not enter the site along with the spruce branches.

Fallen leaves

Only dry, mature foliage can be used for its intended purpose, it is better not this year, but last year's. Fresh autumn litter, always dried, is collected in bags and stored until the time when the plants need to be insulated. The foliage of birch, oak, maple, chestnut does not rot for a long time.


You have to be careful with synthetic materials. They are more suitable for regions where there are no sudden changes in temperature. If unexpected thaws occur during the winter, such shelters become covered with an ice crust, and the plants under them die.


This material protects plants from the sun. Jute mats, a dense, light-colored fabric that can block ultraviolet rays, are also suitable. Under shelters, the tree must breathe. It is better to use removable structures so that the sun still illuminates the plant during the day.

Whitewashing and cleaning of trunks

An effective way to protect trees from fungi, pests, small rodents, as well as unwanted exposure to bright sunlight is to clean the trunks of middle-aged trees and whitewash them.
First, with a scraper or metal brush, carefully remove the old bark that has come off the trunk. Pests will be removed along with it. The bark is burned.
Then the trees are whitewashed. The solution is taken from a store or prepared independently. This requires 3 kilograms of lime, 100 grams of wood glue, half a kilogram of copper sulfate and 10 liters of water. Insist 2 hours. To scare away rodents, add 100 grams of hellebore powder.

How to shelter young trees for the winter

It is necessary to cover the trunks and roots, they are equally at risk. Before starting work, prepare the necessary materials and tools: humus, peat, sawdust, film, fallen leaves, pegs, etc.

The first enemy of seedlings is the wind. Therefore, a stake is placed next to the plant, to which the plant is tightly tied.
Here's a more solid cover. They take 4 pegs as tall as a tree, drive in around the trunk, then wrap around with paper, film or burlap, fix the "cocoon". Leaves and snow are poured on top. The defense is ready.
Other gardeners arrange a frame of dried branches around the apple tree to curb the wind. When a lot of snow falls, this will provide additional protection from frost. The root system will be protected by mulch from manure, peat, coniferous sawdust.
The choice of material is individual and due to specific cases. The same peat is undesirable on acidic soil, it will aggravate the situation. A polyethylene film will protect you from excess moisture, but will not allow air to penetrate into the ground. If the film is used, then it is thrown over the crown, covering a third of the trunk. They are not fixed rigidly.
Before sheltering young seedlings, they are tied in bunches and covered together. They will not be afraid of either gusty winds or heavy snowfalls. So they will spend the winter calmly, gaining strength, and will continue to grow in the spring.

How and when to shelter trees for the winter in the Moscow region

Preparation of fruit trees for winter is carried out depending on the variety and climatic zone. Moscow region is the middle zone of Russia. There are different winters here, and it is impossible to guess in advance what frosts are coming. Among the risks are also heavy snowfalls, harsh winds, the formation of an ice crust on the branches. This means that we must prepare for everything.
Apple trees are pruned, without regret parting with dry, painful, underdeveloped, improperly growing branches. Places of cuts are disinfected with copper sulfate or garden varnish. If you don't have both at hand, use oil paint.
Now the trees have to be well watered: from 5 (for young plants) to 10 (for mature) buckets of water will have to be poured per 1 square meter. Abundant soil moisture before wintering will prevent dehydration of the plantings and their death from this factor. In addition, wet ground conducts heat well. The apple orchard is watered at the end of October, when the air temperature is kept at around 2-4 degrees. Water with hoses, buckets, drip. Buckets, of course, are more practical - it is easier to count the quantity. If significant precipitation falls at this time, they refuse to water.
Potash and phosphorus fertilizers are introduced. For adult apple trees, superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used. The mixture is combined with humus, manure, leaving on top or buried in the near-trunk circle. Top dressing will improve the frost resistance of apple trees. The mulch layer should be at least 5 centimeters. Depending on the composition of the soil, not manure is introduced, but, for example, ash, lime, dolomite flour.
It will be correct to dig up the soil under the apple trees, or at least walk with a rake. Weeds must be destroyed together with the larvae of pests.
Then a wooden structure is built, inside which a mixture of foliage, black soil, sand is placed. With the onset of severe frosts, the finished shelter is supplemented with agrofibre, roofing material or polyethylene.

Shelter a tree for the winter from rodents

Mice, and even more so hares, are able to chew on the bark so that the tree will die. The most popular protection against rodents is with the help of spruce, pine spruce branches. The lower part of the trunks of apple trees to a height of up to a meter is covered or tied with branches of coniferous plants. Pine and spruce are not the only contenders for the role of scarers of unwanted "aliens". Juniper, prickly acacia, birch bark are also suitable.
The lapnik will, purely mechanically, block the path to the bark of apple trees for rodents. And there is also the possibility of using an unpleasant odor intolerable to animals. Hellebore has already been mentioned. Tar also has a persistent negative aroma.
When thinking about how to shelter trees from hares for the winter, do not forget about reed mats, thick paper, bamboo mats, glassine, even old nylon tights. Gardening shops sell plastic nets designed for this "job." They are convenient to use, they let air well to the bark of trees, preventing it from heating up. In the spring, the winding is removed in a timely manner.

When to cover plants

Young plants begin to warm at the end of October, when the average daily temperature is 20 degrees, but massively - from mid-November. At this time, the air temperature is constantly below zero, in the region of minus 5 degrees. If the roots are covered, this is an acceptable temperature for the trees. Light frosts are beneficial for plants entering the winter: this is how they are hardened.
Already in mid-March, with the beginning of the snow melting and the establishment of zero temperature, they get rid of the shelters. Otherwise, the plant is threatened with heating.
Not all trees need shelter for the winter, but some conifers and most fruit trees. It is imperative to cover seedlings and young apple trees, as well as apple trees of non-zoned varieties.

Features of clematis care in the fall and preparation for winter

Autumn work on the care of clematis depends on what species these vines belong to.

The main types of autumn work for the care of clematis:

  • making autumn dressings
  • pruning vines
  • treatment for fungal diseases
  • shelter before the onset of cold weather.

Video: pruning clematis in the fall and shelter for the winter

Features of clematis care in autumn and preparation for winter in the first year

In the first year after planting clematis seedlings, they do not need special care in the fall. But it is necessary to cut these plants in the fall. Any of the species of these flowering vines is cut off the same way for the first time - all shoots should be cut to a height of 20-30 cm, while no more than 2-3 buds should remain on each of them. This pruning is necessary so that lateral shoots begin to grow actively next year.

If the weather is dry, then, of course, do not forget about watering, but, as a rule, autumn still pampers with frequent and heavy rainfall.

Also, for preventive purposes, it is recommended process cut off shoots and the ground around them with fungicides (for example, "Fundazol") against fungal diseases.

Then, before the start of frost, a phased shelter of young clematis should be carried out for the winter. Regardless of the varieties and varieties of the plant, all the seedlings planted in this season are subject to shelter for the winter - they are still too young, so they do not have frost resistance.

The first stage is hilling the cut seedlings with dry soil, to which you can add peat or humus. The next stage is to cover with insulating materials. To do this, you can use spruce branches, peat, sawdust or any other material that allows air to pass inside for ventilation. Otherwise, the plant may simply oppose.

How to prune clematis for the winter

They begin to cut the bush in the third year of life. All annual seedlings, regardless of type and variety, are cut in the same way.

First you need to understand when to prune clematis for the winter. Pruning times (late October to mid-November) vary by region. When almost all the leaves from the trees have fallen, and constant cold weather sets in, we cut off all the shoots, leaving small stumps with 1-2 buds (stump length up to 15 cm). In the spring they will stimulate the awakening of dormant buds at the base of the bush. With weak growth in the second year of life, pruning is also done to the base. As a rule, by the age of three, vines give abundant growth with abundant flowering.

How to cover lavender for the winter

Every year, lavender owners think about whether to cover their bushes for the winter, or "it will do." The answer to this question depends on two criteria - where you live and the type of lavender grown. Only narrow-leaved lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is considered frost-resistant - it is able to winter in the middle lane without loss. Other species need shelter or relocation.

You need to cover lavender no earlier than November (for the middle lane). Heat-loving varieties are not cut off in autumn, the roots are mulched with a layer of peat or humus 5-7 cm thick, then a dome is formed from spruce branches over each bush. Very often, lavender dies not from the cold, but from the fact that the snow over its roots freezes and does not allow air to reach the soil. To avoid this, over each plant, you need to organize an air gap using a cap made of spunbond, boards, slate or other materials at hand.

Lavender in a container cannot overwinter; it must be brought into the room, for example, on a glazed balcony.

Planting clematis

Despite being fastidious, you can find a common language with clematis. Let's try. First, let's figure out what this vine loves. To plant clematis, you need a sunny place, protected from strong winds, both winter and summer. But, saving it from the wind, you should not plant the plant too close to the wall or to a solid fence. The distance from the brick wall should be at least half a meter, and from metal fences in general should be placed as far as possible.

I almost ruined my clematis by close proximity to such a fence. My wonderful vines grew in the amount of five pieces along the mesh fence. Huge five- and three-year-old luxurious shrubs, all of various colors.

My clematis grew well by the mesh fence. Photo by the author

And then we decide that the mesh fence needs to be replaced and we choose a solid metal corrugated board. No sooner said than done. Have changed. No matter how I took care of my beauties - closing, fencing - they still suffered from the carelessness of the fence builders. But this is not the worst thing. The horror began in the summer. My clematis turned out to be practically in the oven: sunshine against the background of an iron fence, the distance to which is about 40 cm, without the slightest breath of breeze. And this is with our Kuban summer, which begins in early May and ends by the end of October, when the temperature is extremely high for almost the entire season! They began to wither: the leaves and branches were drying up, there was almost no flowering. In the fall, I transplanted them (or rather, what was left of the once luxurious bushes) to another place. The youngest clematis died, and the rest survived, having suffered significantly. Now they settle down in a new place - around an openwork gazebo.

Returning to the sad topic, I would like to warn summer residents who have these vines planted against the walls: it is very important that water does not drain from the roof onto them. All clematis do not tolerate waterlogging, especially in the cold season.

Disembarkation period

Spring and autumn. If a seedling is purchased in late autumn, it is added in drops, if purchased in the summer (during this period, planting material can only be purchased with a closed root system), it is planted in the same way as spring and autumn ones.

Clematis are planted in spring and autumn. Photo by the author

Just remember: until it is completely rooted, it must be shaded and more attentive to regular watering. If the seedling has dried roots, it is advisable to place it in a bucket of cool water for 6-8 hours. It would be nice to add Epin to the water.

You can choose seeds and seedlings of clematis in our catalog, where various online stores present their products. Select clematis

Covering raspberries for the winter: what are we doing wrong

The question is acute in the zone of risky agriculture for culture - and such is the north of the Moscow region and not only - a good part of the Middle Belt, the northern regions, the Urals.

How to cover raspberries for the winter if the traditional bending of the shoots under the snow often does not give the desired effect?

You cannot bend many varieties, and the level of snow is not constant. How the issue is resolved in different regions, and what mistakes are fraught with troubles for raspberries.

1. Late styling

At the end of October and in November, it is too late to lay the shoots: after the leaf fall, at the end of the growing season, they are already lignified.

The sap flow stopped, the vine became fragile, brittle. It is especially difficult to work with tall varieties of single fruiting, conventionally called standard, large-fruited - Tarusa and others: the shoots are powerful, tall, with developed lateral branching, it is difficult to bend down.

Do I need to cover raspberries for the winter? The issue is controversial.

Therefore, whoever did not manage to bend at the end of September and before the beginning of October, let the stems that cannot be laid or tied down to winter or use a different method of warming: a cracked vine will not winter.

2. Early pruning of summer varieties

This is mistake. Many gardeners are in a hurry to fulfill the classic recommendation: cut the shoots after fruiting.

The recommendation is outdated: it has been proven that the movement of nutrients in shrubs occurs from the bottom up during the growing season, and before its end - from top to bottom.

If simply, at first nutrient, plastic substances move from the root to the aerial part, then the aerial part “feeds” the rhizome.

Getting rid of tops, we deprive the roots of nutrition. What to do? Trim before styling - because it's convenient. If bending is not planned - even in winter, even in spring. The remaining shoots in regions with a favorable climate will only serve as a snow protector.

3. Repairers: this is important

In a continental climate, renovation is a luxury. Most of the remontant varieties themselves, the breeders recommend growing in a one-year cycle - for one harvest, in the fall.

The logic is simple: the second harvest goes into winter, the first is small. And most importantly, when removing the shoot, the question of sheltering raspberries for the winter disappears.

And how to bend raspberries for the winter, if all in berries: about shelter of remontant varieties and not only.

Those wishing to “feast on raspberries all summer”, as they say, can grow several varieties with different periods of fruiting: early, medium, remontant. And you need to cut the last ones in the fall. Moreover, flush with the ground - without leaving stumps: this reduces the risk of freezing.

Important! It is believed that premature mowing of shoots causes freezing, especially in the southern regions.

Why? With a thaw, the awakening phase begins, the root buds start to grow, with subsequent freezing they freeze. Thus, there is a small amount of root growth, replacement shoots, and just lunges.

4. About tops

And again about the repairmen. The roots also freeze: in regions with little snowy winters, prolonged thaws, followed by severe frosts, icing of the roots is possible.

In such areas, planting is mulched with organic materials - spruce branches, straw, corn stalks, spunbond. And they do not forget about the aisles: mulching them prevents freezing from spreading to the rows.

5. And water?

A common mistake is the absence of water-charging irrigation before the onset of frost. It is carried out in October until stable night temperatures below zero, if the shelter of raspberries for the winter is not expected.Do not ignore the moment: the frozen soil literally tears apart the roots - in the literal sense of the word.

6. Moisture capacity is evil

This applies to materials when choosing a raspberry shelter for the winter. You should not mulch with tyrsa, straw, pome husks - buckwheat, rice. These are summer materials. In winter, they cake, take on moisture. After thaws - they contribute to the icing of the root system, with warming - preheating of the roots, root buds. Yes, cleaning under-aged caked mulch is not an easy task.

7. About peat

It is often advised to mulch with peat: both insulation of the root zone and nutrition. All good advice, but there are also disadvantages.

How to cover raspberries for the winter: choose the right material.

Peat in the spring prevents the heating of the soil, shifts the beginning of fruiting. This also applies to straw: snow slowly melts from it, its packed layer delays the heating of the soil.

What then to mulch? Just stick the earth to the trunk circle. Or dig in, as they do in cold areas. Or mulch with spruce branches, large sawdust. Sawdust is not tyrsa: not water-absorbing, not caking.

It is important to use rotted ones: fresh ones can reduce the nitrogen content in the soil due to the activity of microorganisms that are active during the breakdown of cellulose - that is, during overheating.

8. About forest litter and plant residues

You should not use everything that has grown in the garden: tops of tomatoes and peppers, the same stalks of raspberries. This is plant debris carrying spores of fungal wintering pests. Many nightshade and berry bushes have similar diseases: from powdery mildew to gray rot. In the leaf litter, fungal spores and pests live.

9. Early shelter

Early shelter is fraught with podpyatny shoots - bark, buds, and roots. Do not cover raspberries too early before winter, before the onset of a stable minus at night and about + 10 ... + 7 ° C during the day. In the absence of snow - until the ground freezes. The optimal time will be the moment just before the snow fall, when the temperature drops to + 5 ... + 7 ° C during the day and a steady minus is established at night.

When to cover raspberries? And the terms are different. If in the northern regions it is the end of October or even the middle, then in the southern regions, if necessary, they resort to insulation in January in case of an unfavorable forecast.

10. Shelter too warm

Excessive care is harmful. Often, in addition to straw mats, felt is used, and paired with agrotechnical fabric. This is how more thermophilic crops are sheltered - the same blackberry or peach. Winter hardiness of raspberries is higher, and a shelter that is too warm threatens the above-mentioned under-heating.

This applies especially to cover with spunbond, lutrasil: you should wait for the onset of a stable minus at night - and refrain from shelter until the snow falls. How to guess? And this is the experience and talent of the gardener: experience and foresight. And the weather forecast to help.

Nuance: about leaves

It is often advised to get rid of the leaves before covering and laying. The advice is controversial. So, in the northern regions they have been doing this for a long time: they pass from the bottom up with a coarse glove, removing the foliage.

They do this in order to avoid icing, freezing of leaves to the shoot, threatening to burn, violation of the integrity of the bark. Other gardeners believe that in the absence of long thaws, alternating with frosts, the measure is meaningless.

Features of pruning in the fall

Remember! When it comes to young seedlings, then pruning should be done with extreme caution. And the fact is that the roots may not yet get stronger, so pruning can lead to the death of plants. Some summer residents refuse to prune and often turn out to be right.

When pruning, only a sharp pruner or garden knife should be used. If it is dull, there is a possibility of damage to the structure of the plants.

And if it does, it may not recover from pruning. Also, after trimming one bush, it is worth disinfecting the tool with alcohol or a special agent.

This will help prevent the spread of infections to other plants. Many summer residents forget about this requirement, considering it frankly stupid. However, infections in such plants are the norm.

And if it manifests itself, then after one pruning, it is possible to destroy the entire crop on the site.

Some try to perform thinning pruning, believing that the bush has grown a lot on the site and you can safely get rid of some of the shoots. There is one universal rule: you can prune if the bush has received more than 15 loops. If less, this procedure should be abandoned, because you can cause serious damage to the plant.

If you need to carry out sanitary pruning, then you should carefully consider the tool used.

After pruning, all shoots should be burned off-site. Clematis can tolerate many diseases too painfully and this point should be taken into account by everyone. Haste will also be harmful, it is simply not needed. Before pruning, you should think carefully about everything and determine the tasks that must be completed.

Watch the video: Starting Up Our Fountains, u0026 Planting Flowers u0026 Onions! . Garden Answer


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    the excellent idea

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