Reproduction of monstera - cuttings, layering, leaves
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If you ask the owners of Monstera how to propagate this flower, they will probably answer you that this is very simple to do. In fact, there are many subtleties and nuances to be aware of. If you decide to breed Monstera without understanding the features of the process, then, of course, you will achieve the result, but you will spend more effort and time on it. And most importantly, the plant itself may suffer from this.
Monstera has a huge advantage in terms of reproduction: this flower is easy enough to root. In addition, almost any part of the plant can be used for reproduction, because Monstera is, in fact, a tropical vine, which in wildlife is trying to survive in any way.
Monstera breeding methods
So let's start by saying what are the ways of breeding Monstera.
Reproduction of monstera with an apical cut
You can cut off and root the tip of an adult Monstera. It needs to be put in water in order for the cutting to take root. It is advisable to wait until at least 3 root shoots appear. But the more, the better, since this way the plant will spend less time and effort during rooting, which means that the first leaves-shoots will appear faster.
Propagation of monstera stem cuttings
The second way of reproduction is by pieces of stem cuttings. I like this method the most. To do this, you need to take a part of the stem, on which there would be at least 2 buds, and then just put this piece of the cutting on the surface of the soil. It is best to take a container with a very light earthen mixture or even a hydrogel, but I still prefer the soil.
So, we take the cutting and put it so that it touches the ground with one bud. You don't even need to bury it or cover it with earth. In order to root the stalk, you just need to water and spray it. But it is necessary to make a greenhouse - for example, cover the cutting with glass or a film that will maintain the necessary microclimate around the cutting. Sometimes you need to remove the film to ventilate the plant. And when the roots appear, you can plant the cutting in a permanent place. At this time, the first leaves may appear. By the way, they are heart-shaped. The cut leaves appear later.
Give your eyes a break from reading - an interesting video about Monster.
Reproduction of monstera leaves
Many growers share their experience of growing Monstera from a leaf, and this method also has a right to exist. But sometimes it does not work: the leaf begins to wilt, and it can be quite difficult to root it. But if you accidentally got a leaf (for example, it broke off on a Monster growing at your friends' or in the office), then it's worth a try. To do this, it is best to put the leaf in water and keep there until a large number of roots appear. Therefore, a jar or container in which the leaf will take root, you need to take a larger one, one and a half or two liters. And after the roots appear, you can plant the leaf in the ground.
Reproduction of monstera by shoots with air cuttings
- air layering. This method will force you to tinker, but the results are much more reliable than the first two methods of breeding Monstera. Find a shoot - the leaf from which the strongest aerial roots come, and provide these roots with moisture: I tied moss, which I constantly watered and sprayed. So that it does not dry out, I tied the moss and the trunk around with a piece of cling film - it turned out to be such a greenhouse. You do not need to tie tightly so that the roots have room for growth. In this way, I grew roots on the cut, without cutting off the cutting from the stem. By the way, while the shoot was growing roots, it also grew a leaf, moreover, at once a characteristic dissected shape.
When the roots were strong enough, I made an incision in the stem and cut off the branch, then planted it in a permanent pot.
Another option: one of my friends did not tie the roots with moss, but immersed them in a small plastic container, which she also attached to the stem.
Problems and nuances when breeding Monstera
As I said at the beginning of the article, when breeding Monstera, problems may arise.
Long process of rooting Monstera
The first problem you may encounter is the length of the rooting process. If you propagate the Monstera by cuttings, then it will first of all grow roots, and then it will begin to expel the shoots-leaves. You can speed up the process by watering the cutting with special growth stimulants. And also do not rush to transplant the stalk to a permanent residence, as soon as the first roots appear, let them grow. The more roots and the stronger they are, the faster the cutting will take root in a permanent pot, get comfortable and give the first leaves.
Slim bottom and heavy top for monstera
Another feature that needs to be taken into account: the liana, growing upwards, at the bottom remains the same thickness as the original cutting. That is, the stem at the bottom is often thinner than at the top. Because of this, the vine may break. What to do? First, choose a thick stem for reproduction. And secondly, immediately provide supports for new shoots that will appear as they grow. Monstera requires support. Thirdly, if the bottom of the trunk turned out to be very thin, you can try to deepen it into the ground. For example, sprinkle with earth on top or transplant the plant into a deeper pot, digging as deep as possible.
Sections: Indoor trees Shade-tolerant
Ficus propagation methods at home
Ficus is a perennial evergreen or, less commonly, deciduous plant, belongs to the Mulberry family. Ficus is liana-like, treelike and bushy. In its natural environment, it grows in tropical and subtropical climates. Ficus is not adapted to a temperate climate, therefore it is grown indoors. In total, there are more than 700 plant species that differ in color, shape and size of leaves. The leaves of the plant of various types are shiny, velvety or leathery. Ficus is considered a non-capricious plant, but it needs to comply with the growing conditions: lighting, warmth and humid air. The plant propagates in several ways: cuttings, layering and leaves.
Home breeding methods for monstera
- Most often, monsters use cuttings for reproduction. There are two ways to carry out this procedure. Before growing a monster from a cutting, familiarize yourself with both methods. In the first case, we take the cuttings from the very top, using an already adult plant. We place the apical cuttings in a container with water and calmly wait for rooting. In order for you to grow a beautiful and strong monstera, wait until the cuttings have at least three root processes, after which you can start transplanting into the ground.
- Also, monstera can be propagated by stem cuttings. This is perhaps the easiest and most convenient way. We will need small sections of stem cuttings, which already have two buds. You just need to put such a piece on the ground so that the kidney is in contact with the ground. For rooting, cuttings only need moisture and warmth. They must be regularly sprayed and watered, and also covered with a glass cover or film. From time to time, the plant needs to be ventilated, and after the roots appear, it can be transplanted to a permanent place.
- There is also such a method as propagation of monstera with leaves. The difficulty is that the leaf threatens to wither, and it is much more difficult to take root. However, you can try this method, especially if you have an accidentally broken sheet. Place it in water in a large, spacious container. Better to take a can of two liters. We plant the plant in the ground only when a lot of root processes grow on the leaf.
- Another way is the reproduction of monstera by aerial roots, they are also called layering. This is a more laborious method, but its effectiveness is much higher. The most important thing is to get the procedure right. It is necessary to find a shoot, in which the aerial roots are most developed, and provide them with constant moisture. You can, for example, cover the aerial roots with wet moss and wrap them with foil, but not too much to give them air access.
Regularly it is necessary to unwind the film and spray, moisten the roots along with the moss. When the aerial roots are large and strong enough, make a neat cut in the stem and separate the cuttings. Now the plant can be transplanted into the ground. Instead of moss wrapping, you can immerse the aerial roots in water if you can make a suitable container and attach it to the stem.
These methods are best suited for breeding exotic monsters in non-specialized households. In nature, the plant propagates by seeds, but in artificial conditions, monstera from seed is most often grown in greenhouses.
To propagate by seeds monstera, you need to provide a warm climate and high-quality lighting in the room. And then within a month you can expect the appearance of the first shoots from the seeds.
Rose breeding methods for lovers and those who want to try something new
Propagation of roses by seeds
What kind of roses can you sow?
On sale you can find seeds not only of the famous Chinese rose Angel wings (Angel Wings)but others as well. For example, you can buy polyanthus rose seeds Angel rose and rosehip seeds: dog rose, multiflorous, Caroline, woods and others. But for the first time, the easiest, of course, is to work with a rose. Angel wings.
Procedure for seed propagation of roses
Roses can be sown throughout the year, but it is best to sow them in February-April. When sowing in February, the seedlings will have to be illuminated; when sowing in March-April, you will not need additional lighting.
- It is convenient to sow rose seeds in peat tablets: put 1 seed in prepared peat tablets, lightly sprinkle with soil and cover them on top with a plastic or glass cap.
- Water and air the peat tablets until a rose sprout appears.
- The first shoots usually appear in 2 weeks. When the first true leaf appears, transplant the seedlings into pots.
- Take care of young roses as you would regular indoor flowers: water and feed.
stages of development of rose seedlings
- Within 2 months after germination, your roses will bloom. Choose the most beautiful one and plant it in a flower garden or continue growing it as a houseplant.
flowering rose Wings of Angels 4 months after sowing
You can read more about growing roses from seeds in the material: Growing roses from seeds
Reproduction of roses by grafting - summer budding
Grafting is more of a commercial propagation method, as it allows you to quickly get an adult flowering shrub. Grafted roses develop faster, form larger and more abundantly flowering bushes, BUT throughout their life you will have to constantly struggle with root shoots.
The process of budding roses is quite complicated, but you can do it yourself. Summer budding is called sleeping eye budding, because after vaccination, the bud does not start growing, but "sleeps" until next spring. In the middle lane, the best time for budding roses is from mid-July to mid-August.
- A young canina rose bush is perfect for the stock, it is compatible with most varieties.
- For grafting, take mature shoots of the rose you like, in which thorns are easily separated and well-formed buds-eyes.
- Remove the leaves and cut out a peephole with a shield about 2 cm (peephole in the middle).
the procedure for budding roses
- Open the root collar of the rose hip and wipe it off with a tissue. Then make a T-cut on it.
the procedure for budding roses
- Use a knife to spread the bark and insert the peephole there, press it firmly against the exposed wood and tie it with grafting tape.
- Sprinkle the grafted rosehip with damp earth so that the buds do not dry out.
- After 3-4 weeks, you can check the survival rate of the eyes - if the bud is green, and the petiole is dry and disappears when pressed, then the accretion was successful.
For more information about budding roses, you can read the material: Reproduction of roses: summer budding or watch a master class on budding roses: Rose budding
Rooting green cuttings in ditches
This method is not laborious, the time before the beginning of fruiting of the vine is significantly reduced. To propagate actinidia, use the tips:
- The plant is rooted in shallow grooves (depth 40-50 cm). Place drainage, such as broken brick, at the bottom of the trench.
- A 3 cm layer of sawdust should be placed on top to prevent silting of the drainage.
- Fill the ditch with a mixture of the following components:
- humus - 0.5 parts,
- peat crumb - 1 part,
- sand - 1 part.
- Pour the rooting substrate on top:
- Clean sand - 2 parts,
- Peat (perlite, vermiculite) - 1 part.
(Only sand can be used).
- Plant the cuttings, deepening 2-2.5 cm into the ground.Leave 3-4 cm between the shoots.
- Compact the soil around the planted seedling.
- Water the plants abundantly using the sprinkler method.
For information, so that moisture in the greenhouse does not evaporate strongly on summer days, it is recommended to whiten the film with a solution of lime and chalk. The greenhouse is regularly ventilated.
Experienced gardeners organize automatic watering to regulate humidity.
The cuttings will begin to form roots in a week. After 20 days, the root system will be fully formed.
The film can first be lifted for hardening, and after a week it can be removed completely.
The yield of rooted seedlings with this method is 70-100%. The roots are strong, fibrous.
Cuttings should be transplanted into open ground for growing in early autumn.
When they take root, they perform the first fertilizing with fertilizer:
- Ammonium nitrate - 30 grams per 10 liters of water
- Or a solution of stale manure diluted with water 6 times.
After two, three years of cultivation, the kiwi is placed in a permanent place.
How to propagate black rowan by root suckers
Planting root suckers is an equally popular method to propagate chokeberry. The bushes give a lot of growth every year, so there is no shortage of planting material.
The young shoots of the black chokeberry are separated from the mother plant with a shovel. Each bush should have its own roots. Before planting, shoots are shortened by several buds, after which they are placed in the chosen place.
For planting blackberries, a sunny area is allocated. There are no special requirements for the soil, but the shrub does not develop well on acidified soil. Aronia is so unpretentious that it calmly tolerates the proximity to groundwater. It is often used as a hedge.
Holly in a pot culture is very difficult to care for. In indoor conditions, the height and width can eventually reach 1.8 m. Although the plant is poisonous, its toxins are not dangerous to life. Care must be taken with its thorny leaves.
Temperature and lighting
Holly grows well in partial shade, but even tolerates a certain amount of direct sunlight. Variegated varieties need good lighting so that they do not lose their decorative effect.
The plant does not like heat, it is better that in the room where the holly stands, the temperature does not rise above 21 degrees... In winter, the temperature should be about 10 degrees, it should not fall below 0 and rise above 15 - otherwise, you will not grow holly.
Air humidity and watering
Holly absolutely cannot stand the stagnation of moisture in the pot, as well as the complete drying of an earthen coma. The soil should dry out between waterings. Water abundantly in summer, reduce moisture in winter. The leaves need to be sprayed regularly, especially at high temperatures.
Fertilization and feeding
Once a month from April to September with complex fertilizers.
Soil and transplant
There is no need to replant the plant annually - do it every 2-3 years. You can take a ready-made universal soil and add perlite and charcoal to it. Needs good drainage and a pot of holes.
Flowering and pruning
Small white flowers in spring and summer. Holly is a dioecious plant. In order for the fruits to form, it is necessary that the female and male plants stand nearby.
Requires regular formative pruning, in which care must be taken due to the sharp leaves. Holly can be grown as a bonsai.