Currants after fruiting: pruning, watering, feeding, processing
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Fruit and berry plants
In order to get a stable harvest of berries annually from currant bushes, you need to be able to care for them, and not only before and during fruiting, but also after harvesting the currant. Let's talk about how to help the shrub recover after fruiting is complete.
Usually, currants are cut in the spring, before the sap flow begins, but since this culture begins to vegetate very early, and there is a lot of work in the garden in the spring, some gardeners who did not have time to carry out a sanitary cleaning of the bushes at the beginning of the season transfer it to the end of summer, when everything has been removed from the bushes. berries.
The currant shoots that have reached the age of four are no longer so fruitful, but the bush continues to feed them, taking away food from the younger productive shoots. Therefore, it is better to remove all four-year and older branches that have fruited in the current season to the base, without leaving hemp. It is very simple to figure out where is the young and where the old shoot is: the old ones are thicker, and the bark on them is darker.
The main pruning can be done at the very end of the season, after the plant has shed its leaves, or you can carry out a complete pruning immediately after harvesting, having previously torn off the leaves from the bushes: put on a tight glove, grab a branch in a handful at the very base and move your hand from the bottom up ... If it was not possible to remove all the leaves in this way, cut off those that remain with scissors.
It is better not to remove the leaves from red and white currants: wait until they naturally fall off.
Having freed the currant bushes from the old shoots, take up the root shoots: leave 4-5 of the strongest shoots to replace the old remote branches, shortening them by a third of the length, and remove the remaining offshoots. And do not forget to cut off the aging tops to the first strong branch on 2 and 3 year old shoots.
Cleaning between rows and under bushes
After pruning the bushes, you need to collect all plant residues and old mulch from under them, put them in compost if the bushes are healthy, or dispose of them if they are infected. Then the soil in the root area is carefully loosened with a hoe or a pitchfork, trying not to touch the superficially located currant roots. After that, a hole is formed around the bush for a new mulch.
Preventive treatment of currants
After the leaves and unnecessary shoots are removed from the bushes, preventive treatment of currants from diseases and pests should be carried out, and both problematic and completely healthy bushes should be sprayed. For fungal infections, currants are treated with a fungicide: one percent Bordeaux liquid, iron vitriol, Topaz solution, Fundazol or any other copper-containing drug.
If your bushes are healthy, then they can be sprayed with Fitoverm or Karbofos, preparing a not too concentrated prophylactic solution. However, if ticks, glass vessels or signs of infection with gall midges are found on the bushes, it will be necessary to make the solution stronger and carry out not one, but at least two treatments. You can read how to prepare the treatment solution on the package of the insecticide.
To properly water a two-three-year-old currant bush, you will need 4 to 6 buckets, depending on the soil in which you are growing the crop. In the future, the currant will have enough natural precipitation, especially if you mulch its root section. But if the fall is dry and hot, you may need to water the bushes from time to time.
Currants, exhausted by fruiting, are in dire need of additional nutrition, both organic and mineral. Of organic matter, humus, peat or compost are preferable, which are applied under the bush in mixed form or separately. Consumption per plant - 1 bucket of each type of fertilizer. Currants respond well to a solution of mullein or bird droppings, but if there is nowhere to take these fertilizers, you can replace them with liquid vermicompost with phosphorus purchased in a store.
In the photo: Mulching the currant bush after harvesting
You should know that currants are very fond of phosphorus, besides, it contributes to the early ripening and lignification of young shoots, therefore, after fruiting, a potassium-phosphorus complex is introduced under it.
In the second half of the growing season, currants no longer need nitrogen, and the amount of the element that is contained in organic feeding will be enough for it.
The following mineral compositions can be used for feeding currants:
- a solution of 2 tablespoons of superphosphate and the same amount of potassium nitrate in 10 liters of water;
- a solution of 2 tablespoons of Ammofoska and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water;
- a solution of 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of urea in 10 liters of water;
- a solution of 1 tablespoon of superphosphate and 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water.
You can dissolve mineral fertilizers in liquid organic matter - mullein solution, for example. It is necessary to introduce solutions into the previously watered ground, and after applying top dressing, the root area of the currant should be mulched with organic matter - compost, humus, peat or their mixture.
In order to neutralize the stress state of the currant after abundant fruiting, it is possible to process the bushes on the leaves with a solution of the immunostimulant - Zircon, but not every plant needs such foliar feeding.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the Gooseberry family
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Information about Fruit Crops
- Information about Berry Crops
Sections: Fruit and berry plants Berry bushes Plants on C Gooseberries
Proper care of currants after harvest
It is difficult to imagine a garden without currant bushes. Currant is a healthy berry, which contains a large amount of useful vitamins and minerals.
There are several types of currants, which differ in color, ripening time.
In order to harvest a healthy crop of currants in the summer, shrubs need care in spring, and especially after harvest.
What to do with strawberries right after picking berries
So, your strawberry has fruited and no longer produces berries. What should be done immediately after this?
By the end of fruiting, those leaves that have formed on strawberries in spring grow old and begin to slowly die off. In addition, some of them show signs of illness, blemishes, etc.
Such foliage is a burden for the bush. Therefore, the old leaves are cut off. This can be done literally 3 days after picking the berries.
Complete removal of the aboveground part
If your strawberry is more than 3 years old, or it is severely affected by diseases, then all the bushes are cut off and only small stumps are left.
This will renew the plantation.
Strawberry mustache must be trimmed. But you need to do it wisely. If you do not plan to breed bushes, then remove all mustache.
If you want to increase the number of bushes, then leave some new strong first-order rosettes.
Watering is the most important part of strawberry care after harvesting. It is not worth pouring water often, but abundantly enough to keep the soil moist.
Closer to autumn, the frequency and abundance of watering is reduced more, as the plant prepares for winter.
Loosening the soil
Loosening the soil is an important procedure that increases the supply of oxygen to the root system. When conducting it, you must adhere to some rules:
- loosen the soil not deeply, along the soil crust, so as not to damage the roots
- remove weeds
- do not treat the area near the trunk
- make small feeding grooves.
We process the bite zone of black currant
After pruning, it's time to pay attention to the bite area. First of all, it needs to be freed from fallen leaves, fruits, twigs, and various garbage, sending all this to a fire, from which wood ash, excellent in nutritional value, and, among other things, completely safe, can also be obtained.
Further, when the bite zone of the black currant is absolutely clean, you can dig it to a shallow depth. A depth of 7-8 cm is quite enough, so you will definitely not damage the roots and will be able to turn a number of wintering pests and diseases to the surface that will freeze in winter. In addition, you will increase the air and water exchange of the soil, because, despite the fall, the suction roots continue to absorb moisture little by little, contributing to its accumulation in the tissues. This will increase the immunity of the black currant and allow it to survive the harsh winter with dignity, saving the shoots from drying out, that is, evaporation of moisture from the shoots located on the south side.
When the bite zone is neat, so as not to damage the roots, dug up and turns out to be loose, you can water the black currant, but not simple, but water-charging.
By the way, before proceeding to such watering, I would like to make a comment. Digging the soil is important and necessary, but rather in the central regions of Russia, where it is possible not to use mulching, if you live further north and you will certainly carry out mulching in the future, then you can not dig up the soil, but only loosen it a little with a rake.
Black currant bush after pruning. © kitchengardenblog
After removing the remaining and spoiled fruits, damaged branches, you can start applying organic and mineral fertilizers.
Fertilizing fruit trees
Under trees up to 8 years old, 30 kg of humus is introduced, and for crops older than 9 years - 50 kg. Fertilizer must be embedded in the soil to a depth of 12-15 cm (cherry and plum) or 15-20 cm (apple and pear).
Under apple and pear trees, in addition to organic matter, you can add 300 g of superphosphate and 200 g of potassium sulfate. They are sealed together with humus or scattered around the tree, sprinkled with soil and watered.
For cherries and plums, you need to dilute 3 tbsp. superphosphate and 2 tbsp. potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water and water the trees generously. Each adult tree will need 4 buckets of top dressing.
Fertilizing berry bushes
Berry bushes in the fall are also fertilized with humus. For example, under each adult gooseberry bush, 8 to 15 kg of humus and 40 g of potassium sulfate should be applied, and after a year, 160 g of superphosphate should be added. Particularly effective is the introduction of macronutrients together with organic fertilizers, when part of the organic matter is embedded in the soil, and part is used for mulching the root zone.
Raspberries and currants are fed with humus (10-15 kg per plant), and 60 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium salt are added under each bush. It is better to apply fertilizer in grooves 20 cm deep, dug at a distance of 30 cm from the bush.
Strawberries need special care. After harvesting and trimming old leaves, it is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm and apply a complex mineral fertilizer. Ammophoska is ideal, because it contains not only phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, but also magnesium, calcium, sulfur. For 1 square meter, there should be about 15 g of the mixture. Macronutrients need to be added together with humus, and the bushes should be mulched with peat on top and watered.
Fertilizers containing chlorine should be avoided when feeding strawberries.
Processing currants after harvest from pests and diseases
Even outwardly healthy bushes require treatment from pests and diseases. And now this must be done, because for at least 3 weeks the plants have been without protection, while you were waiting for the harvest and did not spray them with anything!
To protect against fungal diseases, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or fungicidal preparations (Topaz, Fundazol). If there are signs of powdery mildew, spotting, etc., the treatment is carried out again 7-10 days after the first one, or as indicated in the instructions for the preparation.
To expel colonies of pests that you find while harvesting, 5 days after spraying with fungicides, use insecticides:
- from currant gall midge - Lepidocide, Bitobaxibacillin, Kinmiks, etc.
- from kidney mites - Kleschevit, Karbofos, etc.
- from the glass - Fitoverm, Lepidotsid, Iskra, Aktara, etc.
- from aphids - Kinmiks, Fufanon, Iskra, etc.
If there are no signs of the appearance of insects, then the treatment with Bordeaux liquid will be sufficient and additional spraying is not necessary. To disinfect the soil, you can spill it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Then mulch the near-stem circle with straw or sawdust, which will retain moisture in the soil and protect the plant roots from overheating.