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Features of spring garlic care

Features of spring garlic care


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Winter garlic shoots appear very early, immediately after the snow melts. It was at this time that the foundation for the future harvest of this useful and unpretentious vegetable was laid - a fragrant seasoning and a storehouse of vitamins and microelements necessary for our body.

Spring care for garlic

The success of garlic cultivation lies in timely and proper care. The first thing to do in early spring is to remove the shelter from the beds. It is impossible to be late with this event, otherwise the young green feathers of the plant may be damaged, and the seedlings may be supported.

The beds with winter garlic are covered for the winter in order to protect the plant from the cold and prevent it from freezing

The first feeding and treatment from pests

When growing garlic, it is important to provide the plant with the necessary nutrients from the very beginning of the growing season. In the spring of the growing season, the crop needs nitrogen fertilizers, which will have a positive effect on the growth of leaves. For the first feeding, it is best to use urea, 1 tablespoon of which is diluted in 10 liters of water. The solution is used for root feeding at the rate of up to 3 liters per 1 sq. m. Watering with nitrogen fertilizer is carried out early, as soon as the plant releases 3-4 leaves.

In rainy weather, it is better to use a granular composition rather than an aqueous solution of urea to fertilize garlic.

Dry dressing of garlic is carried out in furrows up to 2 cm deep, which are then sprinkled with earth

For the second spring feeding, which is carried out 2-3 weeks after the first, experienced gardeners recommend using nitroammofoska, 2 tbsp. which spoon is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The consumption rate of the solution is the same as when adding urea. Top dressing with fertilizer with phosphorus significantly affects the beginning of the formation of a head of garlic.

Garlic also responds well to organic fertilization, with the exception of fresh manure.

In the spring, it is recommended to carry out preventive treatments of garlic plantings against pests and diseases:

  • watering with Fitosporin, Maxim, 1% copper sulfate solution will protect garlic from fungal diseases;
  • treatment with Epin, Zircon activates the protective functions of the plant, increases its immunity;
  • dusting the beds with ash, tobacco dust is a good protection against insect pests.

Ash will not only scare away pests, but also nourish the garlic with the necessary trace elements.

Loosening and weeding

Garlic responds well to loosening the soil, which is necessary for good air circulation. This procedure should be carried out regularly, after each watering or rain, avoiding the formation of a dense crust on the soil. The first loosening is organized early, in April, as soon as young shoots appear on the surface of the soil. Its depth should be no more than 2–3 cm. During subsequent treatments, the depth of loosening is increased by about 1 cm, reaching a maximum of 10–12 cm - this is the level where the formation of garlic heads takes place.

On light sandy and sandy loam soils, where the roots are provided with oxygen, loosening can be carried out less often, and on heavy loamy soils it is necessary after each moistening

For young shoots of garlic, an equally important procedure is the removal of weeds, which begin to rage in the spring. Weeds, which grow very quickly, not only shade garlic shoots, but also take away the necessary nutrients from them, and contribute to the spread of diseases and pests. Cleaning the beds is carried out manually with the removal of both the aerial part of the weed and its roots.

Garlic does not like weeds and has to be weeded several times as soon as the weed begins to appear

In clean beds, the heads of garlic grow larger and healthier, as they get enough food and light.

Soil mulching

Weeding and loosening are labor-intensive procedures. To reduce their number, it is recommended to mulch the garlic plantings with peat, rotted manure, straw, sawdust, and dry grass. In addition to the fact that it is more difficult for weeds to break through the mulch, this procedure has a number of positive aspects:

  • when using peat and humus as mulch, the culture receives additional nutrition;
  • if mulching is carried out after the first loosening, then the moisture from the garden will not evaporate so quickly, respectively, a hard crust does not form on the surface, which prevents good air exchange;
  • mulch will rot during the season and become an excellent fertilizer for new cultivated plants.

When mulching with straw, its layer should be about 10 cm

Mulching will have a positive effect only if the features of the use of various compositions for covering the soil are taken into account:

  • the thickness of the layer when mulching with cut grass should not exceed 2 cm. A thicker layer can lead to the formation of a mucous mass;
  • straw used as mulch can attract mice, slugs;
  • dry grass contains a large number of weed seeds;
  • sawdust, as well as pine needles have an acidifying effect on the soil, therefore they are recommended to be used only on soils with a neutral or alkaline reaction.

Rules for watering and brine treatment

Garlic loves moisture. With its lack, it does not die, but forms small heads, and begins to turn yellow and dry ahead of time. It should be borne in mind that excess moisture leads to the development of putrefactive diseases, a deterioration in the taste of the cloves (they will be watery), as well as poor keeping the heads. When organizing irrigation, you should be guided by the weather and soil condition. You can determine the need for soil moisture as follows:

  • dig a hole about 10 cm deep in the garlic bed;
  • from the bottom of the hole, take a handful of earth and squeeze it in the palm of your hand;
  • if the lump of earth does not crumble when squeezed, the garlic does not need watering. A scattering handful signals the need for hydration.

The need for watering is not determined by the state of the topsoil, it should not be allowed to dry out at the depth of formation and growth of the heads

Watering is best done in the evening. During the day, moisture partially evaporates, and during the night it will all be absorbed into the soil and moisten it as much as possible. An approximate watering scheme might look like this:

  • if the spring is rainy, damp, then there is no need to water the plantings;
  • in moderately hot weather with a small amount of natural precipitation, watering is carried out every 7-10 days;
  • in a hot dry spring, watering is organized in 4–5 days with a consumption rate of at least a bucket of water per 1 square meter. m.

Frequent watering with a small amount of water for garlic is undesirable, since moisture, having wetted only the top layer of the soil, quickly evaporates

In spring, the flight of the main garlic pest, the onion fly, begins. To scare it away, prophylactic spraying of garlic plantings with saline is carried out:

  • 1 glass of table salt is dissolved in 10 liters of water;
  • using a spray bottle, the solution is applied to the green garlic shoots. The specified amount is used for processing at least 3 square meters. m;

    Preventive treatment is carried out when the garlic leaves reach a height of 10-12 cm

  • it is advisable to carry out the processing in the evening, and in the morning to spray the garlic with plain water and water the garden.

Additional treatments with a saline solution are carried out only if there are signs of damage to garlic by pests: the seedlings begin to turn yellow, become brittle and stunted. In this case, spraying is carried out twice more with an interval of 10-15 days, while the concentration of the solution should be the same as in the preventive treatment.

Please note that sodium and chlorine contained in salt water can disrupt the ecology of the soil, impoverish it, and inhibit the growth and development of plants. Saline solution is able to destroy and scare away not only pests, but also beneficial insects, so it must be used deliberately. If, after two or three treatments, a positive effect is not observed, then other pest control methods should be used.

Video: spring care for garlic

If the garlic has not sprouted

Sometimes, instead of the expected friendly shoots, only individual shoots appear in a garden bed with garlic. In this case, experienced gardeners are advised to dig out a few planted cloves and assess their condition:

  • if the clove is alive, strong, its roots begin to grow, then the garden should be watered, fertilized and after a while such garlic will sprout. The reason for the delay is most likely too deep or late landing;
  • if the excavated clove has become soft, it lacks the rudiments of roots and there are signs of rotting, then it is frozen and will not rise.

Freezing of garlic can occur for several reasons:

  • winter garlic was planted early (September-early October). In the fall, he managed not only to take root, but also to germinate;
  • the fit was too shallow (less than 5 cm);
  • the garlic bed is organized in the shade, therefore, during severe frosts, the ground on it froze earlier and deeper;
  • the plantings were not covered for the winter by spruce branches, fallen leaves, or other available material.

In this case, planting spring garlic, which is carried out at the end of April, will help save the situation. Winter garlic, planted in spring, most often produces a single-clove bulb that will not last long and should be immediately recycled.

Spring care for garlic is standard and simple, but in order not to forget to carry out all the mandatory activities, it is recommended to draw up a schedule of feeding and processing. It will help you provide the plant with nutrients in a timely manner and prevent diseases and pests.

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My name is Ludmila. Higher education, graduated from the Minsk Institute of Culture. I live in Belarus.

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Comments:

  1. Tagal

    and everything, and the variants?

  2. Farold

    I don't read further



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