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15 ways to increase your potato yield in your home garden

15 ways to increase your potato yield in your home garden


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Potatoes are quite unpretentious and can grow anywhere. But the size of the harvest is not always encouraging. To increase the yield of potatoes, you need to seriously approach such moments as planting, leaving, choosing a variety. Secrets of increasing the amount of harvested root vegetables in the article.

Standard Yield Improvement Methods

Potato yield depends on many factors... Fertilizing the soil alone is not enough.

The following factors influence a good result:

  • large tubers;
  • ovary of a large number of root crops;
  • good potato immunity will result in few culls when sorting seeds;
  • timelandingand harvests affect the harvest.

Let's take a closer look at how to increase the potato yield using standard methods.

Planting material to increase yields

To increase the yield, you need to properly select and prepare the seeds. Seed preparation begins in the fall, after harvest. If you use your own potatoes for planting, then you must immediately select healthy, crack-free tubers and put them separately from the rest of the potatoes.

The choice of material for planting: when packing seed potatoes, it is important that the fruits are firm, even in shape. If the potato has a non-standard shape, this indicates its degeneration. It is better not to use such tubers for planting.

In early spring again start preparing potatoes for planting... To do this, repeat the tuber selection procedure. The best weight is 50-80g.

If a nematode is found on the seed, then the potato is unsuitable for planting. Nematoda is considered a very dangerous disease and infects all potatoes at once.

If the tubers are frozen or have an unpleasant putrid smell, they should also be removed.

Preplanting tubers and planting methods

Plant the selected tubers. To do this, they should be laid out in the light, in a room that is well ventilated. Temperature should not be lower than 10C... Landscaping lasts for a month. Turn the planting material periodically.

Another method of sprouting potatoes is in plastic bags. Pierce a bag 100 cm long by 30 cm, making holes 1 cm apart at 10 cm intervals. Fill the bags with planting material and hang in a well-lit room.

Planting potatoes with the right method will give excellent results. There are more than a hundred modern methods, but the most effective of them are as follows:

  1. Landing under a trench... Suitable for sandy soils. In autumn, trenches of 30: 100 cm should be dug. A layer of hay should be laid out in the trench 15 cm, fertilized with manure mixed with ash. During the period of frost, the layer will be compacted. In the spring, planting material is laid out in the trench and lightly sprinkled with soil.
  2. Landing under the holes... In the fall, it is recommended to prepare the site: apply fertilizers, mulch the soil. In spring, the tubers are planted by digging holes. Sprouted tubers are placed in a hole at a depth of 8-10 cm, sprouts up. It is recommended to fertilize from above with manure and ash.
  3. Landing under the ridges... If the land in the garden is clay or unpaved, then planting under the ridges at a distance of 20: 80 cm is suitable. Combs can be made using agricultural technology. The planting material is planted in depressions located at the top of the ridges.

Fertilizing potatoes

Top dressing potatoes: in the spring, before digging the garden, apply fertilizer. The combinations can be different. Root top dressing is done until hilling. To do this, a stake with a depth of 20 cm is hammered into the recess, a fertilizer solution is poured into the recess.

1 hole there are three bushes of potatoes... Each plant will take as much fertilizing as it needs. It is recommended to fertilize with chicken droppings. It contains - potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen. It must be added to the ash in a 2: 1 ratio.

Let's consider the most effective fertilizers, thanks to which you can get a rich harvest:

  • Urgas... The compost is applied between the rows before planting and sprinkled with a 5 cm layer of soil. The fertilized area must be watered. Within a month, the worms will spread compost throughout the entire area of ​​the site;
  • Supercompost Peaks... Add to the wells immediately before planting;
  • Kemira... Pour into the hole during planting, at the rate of 15-20g in each hole. This is a little less than a teaspoon. Before putting the potato, it is necessary to sprinkle the granules with earth;
  • Gibbersib... Natural growth regulator. It is necessary to soak the seed for 2 hours in the solution and then rinse with water, sow or put on germination;
  • Epin... Growth stimulant;
  • Silk... After using Silk, the potatoes gain weight, the starch level rises, the roots are well preserved until spring.

Hilling

Do on moist soil. Hilling is done in several stages:

  1. When the potatoes grow 10 cm;
  2. When the formation of tubers begins;
  3. When the bushes grow up to 25 cm.

Hilling can be done in two ways:

  • manual tiller... The device is used for soil treatment between beds;
  • walk-behind tractor... The universal device for loosening the soil and harvesting. You can use a hiller behind or three-row nozzles that will huddle 3 bushes at the same time.

Watering

Immediately after planting, you do not need to water the potatoes, the root system is being laid. Watering rules:

  • watering is necessary in the evening to reduce moisture evaporation;
  • the first watering is carried out a month after planting;
  • most irrigation peak - flowering period;
  • lukewarm water should be used to moisten the soil. Ice water can chill the plant;
  • watering is done in parts, first half is poured under the bush, after absorption, the rest of the water is poured;
  • you cannot water the bush with a direct stream;
  • cannot be watered plants before harvest.

When and how to water the potatoes: Water the potatoes every 10 days before flower stalks form. At high air temperatures - once every 7 days. When flowers appear, watering should be increased. Up to 15 liters of water are consumed for each plant.

After flowering, increase the amount of watering to 20 liters per bush. Reduce watering to 3 liters with leaf wilting. When the stems completely dry out, watering should be stopped altogether.

Pest and disease control

The most common potato pests: Colorado potato beetle, golden nematode, wireworm, bear. Pest control measures:

  • plant crops in the place where legumes, cereals, beets used to grow;
  • in the fall you need to dig up the ground;
  • before planting, the tubers should be checked for any damage, growths, diseases;
  • process potatoes when planting chemical solutions against pests and diseases;
  • apply organic matter before planting. Add bird droppings 1: 3 to the hole;
  • choose disease-resistant potato varieties;
  • mow and burn the tops after harvesting.

Secrets of Increasing Yields

In order to increase yields, you need to follow the recommendations proven by gardeners. There are several secrets.

Disinfection of planting material

Seed tubers need be sure to disinfect... This is a good prevention against diseases and pests. To do this, you need to soak the tubers for 2 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate 0.5 g per 10 liters of water, copper sulfate 5 g, boric acid 15 g.

Bathing in a nutrient solution to accelerate growth

Potatoes should be soaked in a nutrient solution 2 days before planting - this will help speed up the growth of the culture. Cooking method at home:

  • mix superphosphate 40 g, nitrogen fertilizers 40 g, potassium salt 40 g;
  • add solution to 10 liters of water;
  • pour over the tubers without sprouts.

Stimulating cut to increase yields

We make the harvest larger: for better germination of potatoes, cut the tubers across by ¾ of the thickness, then spread them indoors for 3-4 weeks at t 10 degrees. Annular cut is done at a depth of 1 cm to completely encircle the tuber.

Geolocation dependence

Some gardeners believe that the best yielding direction of potato furrows is from north to south. In our latitudes, the sun will illuminate the east side of the rows before lunchtime, and after that, the west. This will maximize saturate the harvest with warmth and light.

Tricky break

After flowering, after 2-3 weeks, break the stems at a height of 15 cm from the soil. This method will greatly improve the yield of the bush. It is necessary to break the stem in such a way that it does not lose its integrity, but can no longer recover. After this procedure, the nutrients are directed to the tubers, and not to the stem.

Alternation of cultures

In order for potatoes to give a large harvest, it is recommended to alternate crops. It is good to plant a root crop after: legumes, pumpkin seeds, cabbage, cucumbers.

Highly fertile soils

The planting site for potatoes should be flat, without holes, so that moisture does not linger in them. It is good to plant potatoes in loam, sandy loam, drained peat bogs, gray soils. Acidic soils are not suitable.

Proper preparation for planting potatoes: it is worth cooking a garden since the end of summer... Digging should be carried out, add urea 10g, ammonium nitrate 15g, superphosphate 15g and potassium salt 10g.

Plant not thickly

The increase in yield depends on the width between the rows of potatoes. The recommended width for early varieties is 65-70 cm, for late varieties - 75-80 cm.

Growing without flowers

Blooming potatoes reduce the yield by a quarter. All organic matter is distributed throughout the plant, as well as in the flowers by 25%. therefore do not wait for flowers to appear... It is recommended to remove the peduncles as soon as they arise.

If you follow all of the above tips, the yield will increase significantly. Good luck to you!


There are a number of rules that will help you learn how to grow a rich crop of potatoes, regardless of the method of growing.

  1. Before planting, check the condition of the seedlings, dip them into a solution that stimulates the development of rhizomes.
  2. How much potatoes grow from planting to fruit ripening depends on the ripeness of the variety. The process usually takes 1.5 to 3.5 months.
  3. Culture does not like frost, but heat is also an unfavorable phenomenon for it. It is important to take into account the optimal timing for landing, the place.
  4. The need for watering depends on the stage of ripening of the potatoes. Young seedlings do not need a lot of liquid, this also applies to faded potatoes. During pollen, the plant is quite demanding on moisture, its lack is reflected in the harvest. Potatoes are watered with settled water in the amount of 3 liters per bush abundantly during its flowering. Moisture saturation has a beneficial effect on yield.
  5. It is advisable to arrange the beds from north to south, then the bushes will stay in the sun longer, the stems will not stretch out from their lack.
  6. In the form of fertilizers for potatoes, mineral compositions should be used: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. You can also use slurry, an aqueous solution of poultry droppings, but less often.
  7. Potatoes need to be replanted every 2 years as the crop depletes the soil. Suitable predecessors include cereals, beets, cabbage, cucumbers. Do not plant in a place where eggplants, tomatoes, peppers were previously grown.
  8. The depth of the holes for planting seedlings depends on the soil composition. The lighter it is, the deeper potatoes are buried in it.

If you follow these recommendations, you will be able to harvest a lot of the crop.


12 Ways to Boost Your Potato Yield

In late August and early September, gardeners harvest potatoes. Someone will delight the grown crop, someone will sadly notice that "the game is not worth the candle." Why is it that sometimes the results of the work on growing the "second bread" so beloved by Russians are so different in neighboring areas?

After harvesting tubers, gardeners begin to prepare the foundations of the future harvest. What should be done so that he will please you next year? I hope that the tips and tricks offered below will be useful for beginner potato growers, as well as for those who have been planting tubers for several years, but are not satisfied with the results they receive.

Potatoes are grown many, and it's not a secret for anyone that the harvest depends not only on climatic conditions, season and planting care. The first role is played by the quality of the seed used for planting. And it, according to official statistics, is now extremely low in Russia.

The fact is that in the process of the annual selection of seed tubers for the next gardening season from their own potatoes, they gradually accumulate a whole a bouquet of viral diseases... That is why every year the harvests are getting smaller and smaller, despite the quality of planting care. As a result, it turns out that it becomes unprofitable to grow potatoes - there is a lot of labor costs and material costs, and the harvest with a gulkin's nose.

So you have to pay a lot of money for elite planting material or learn how to grow potatoes from seed. In other words, planting material is the basis for obtaining large yields.

But there are other factors that can play a significant role in increasing yields, provided that there is still high-quality planting material.

In general, potatoes are a very fertile and plastic culture. Its low yield among Russian gardeners is explained by ignorance of its biological characteristics, the use of random planting material of low reproductions for planting and violation of the cultivation technology.

In many Russian vegetable gardens, potatoes are still grown according to a simplified, primitive scheme: planting - hilling - harvesting. For planting, they mainly use what will have to be - a degenerate seed material of long-term use, which means that of unknown mass reproduction, since few do simple seed-growing work - the selection of tubers for seeds. Has not yet entered the practice of growing potatoes and the use of techniques fight against late blight, including the timely spraying of plants with protective drugs, which leads to a significant shortage of crops, and much more.

Method 1 - quality planting material

Not having it at hand, as practice shows, it is better not to plant potatoes - they will not wait for the harvest. Although for some reason very many gardeners do this year after year and claim that potatoes will grow anyway. And then they dig out about a bucket of an incomprehensible type of trifle and rightfully believe that they have conscientiously fulfilled their duty in providing the family with potatoes.

There is no problem to buy today elite planting material that is not infected with viral and other diseases - many gardening shops sell them in the spring. True, it will cost a lot. But you can go another way, growing this elite planting material yourself from seeds, however, this is another story. Many experienced gardeners have learned how to grow and propagate valuable varieties through seedlings. In this case, from several valuable super-elite tubers, you can get seedlings for an entire plantation (From the editorial board: the most experienced potato grower G.D.Sherman spoke about this method more than once in our magazine).

Method 2 - crop rotation

This technique is nothing new for you and me - everyone knows that most crops will never give a good harvest when planted in the old place. Potatoes are no exception, although many for some reason believe that this crop can be grown in the same place for many years.In fact, all advanced Western farms return it to its original place no earlier than 3-4 years later, when the soil is cleared of pathogens of many fungal and bacterial diseases.

Method 3 - highly fertile soils

The Dutch, by the way, allocate only plots with a very high agricultural background for potatoes, knowing full well that there can be no rich harvest on poor land. In Russia, for some reason, we have a completely opposite approach - as a rule, plots are allotted for potatoes, where nothing else can be planted.

Method 4 - plant lightly

The width of the potato rows is of great importance. Dutch farmers, for example, plant potatoes with a row spacing of 75 cm. Unfortunately, due to the economy of land in our plantings, you can see row spacing of only 40-50 cm. This makes it difficult to huddle with loose soil, developing roots are pruned. As a result, plants are lagging behind in growth and development. Due to the lack of soil for hilling, the tubers become bare and turn green, which is unacceptable when growing ware potatoes. To obtain a full-fledged crop, the row spacing for early potato varieties is recommended 65-70 cm, for late varieties - 75-80 cm

Method 5 - small ones are not always remote

Large tubers, in comparison with small ones (if we are not talking about the elite), give earlier and more friendly shoots and form a powerful bush. In the experiments of the Research Institute of Potato Farming, the yield from tubers weighing 100 g was 25 percent higher than from 50 grams. But this was observed only in seasons favorable for meteorological conditions and on a high agricultural background: with fertile soil and timely care. The difference was smoothed out in dry years and on soils sandy, sod-podzolic, on medium-cultivated loams.

This is explained by the fact that powerful plants from large tubers, capable of synthesizing more organic substances for filling tubers, need an increased level of nutrition and water supply. With a lack of moisture, such plants suffer more because of intense evaporation than less developed ones. And the middle peasants develop more rhythmically in conditions of any deficit.

The mass of the planting tuber also affects the timing of the harvest. For example, harvesting potatoes planted with large tubers is possible 20-40 days earlier. More weighty tubers are harvested from large seeds.

In case of frost damage, large tubers regrow sprouts faster due to the large number of spare buds.

Method 6 - down with flowers

The blooming potato plot looks, no doubt, quite beautiful, but this beauty deprives us of 20-25% of the crop of tubers. The organic substances formed in the potato plant are actively distributed throughout all organs. They also flow into flowers, the formation of which coincides with tuberization. Studies have shown that during this period 40-45% of organic matter flows into the tubers, 23-25% remains in the stems and leaves, and over 25% in flowers.

This is how the flowers "steal" the tubers. The latter become depleted in starch, and smaller in size. As a result, such tubers will yield lower yields next year than those from which peduncles have been removed. This is due to the fact that the growth and development of potato seedlings in the first period is carried out at the expense of the organic matter of the mother tubers. Therefore, potato growers should not wait for the appearance of flowers, but destroy the flower stalks already at the beginning of budding.

Method 7 - you can't do without modern and highly active fertilizers

It implies making these same fertilizers when planting potatoes in holes. This is much more convenient than finding out later that the potatoes are missing something and carrying out numerous top dressing.

As for fertilizers, today many of them can significantly affect the potato crop.

Urgas
Let's start with the biological fertilizer of the XXI century (this is what it is called), the effect of which is very high, and you can prepare Urgas on your own during the winter on the basis of the purchased concentrate of bacteria Baikal-EM1. You can read how to cook Urgasa in the instructions, and there were plenty of publications on this topic. And in a nutshell - this is all the food waste that has accumulated in your apartment over the winter (believe me, there will be a lot of them), processed with special bacteria.

Do not be afraid, with a competent approach to business, there will be no smells in the apartment, and not a single guest will guess that you are actively producing fertilizers at home. The only thing is that all the fertilizer received must be folded into thick plastic bags (the same as those used by fishermen for fish), sprinkled with stale sawdust in order to reduce the moisture content of the fertilizer (and so that, God forbid, nothing leaks anywhere), very carefully tie and send into the garden. It is possible in the winter in a backpack, if you make regular flights to your site, it is also possible in the spring by car.

When planting, I add one handful of Urgasa to the hole and mix it thoroughly with the rest of the soil components. This point is extremely important, because the fertilizer is very concentrated and tubers may burn. I have no official data on increasing the yield of potatoes when using Urgasa, but from personal experience I can say that the bushes are developing much more actively.

Supercompost Peaks
It is also a very active fertilizer with many beneficial microorganisms that help plants absorb nutrients. It is also introduced not randomly, but strictly into the holes during landing. It can increase the yield of potatoes by at least 1.5-2 times. I have data on the use of Piksa when growing potatoes in one of the state farms near Moscow. They indicate that the most effective option should be considered the local introduction of Piksa into planting rows. And they also say that Piksa fertilizers are required to obtain an equivalent crop at least 10 times less than semi-rotten manure.

Finnish complex fertilizers of Kemira
Finnish complex chlorine-free fertilizers, saturated with microelements, Kemira universal and Kemira potato also significantly increase the yield of potatoes. In the Moscow region, on experimental fields, it was proved that the use of Kemir universal and Kemir potato in comparison with our domestic fertilizers can increase the yield by 1.6-2.1 times. At the same time, tubers with a higher starch content grow - 0.5-1.3% higher than in the version with domestic fertilizers. For my part, I can confirm that Kemir's fertilization turns out to be really very effective in growing potatoes.

Method 8 - stimulants are not a luxury

Biostimulants are natural or synthetic compounds that, in very small doses, can cause significant changes in the growth and development of plants. Once in the plant, they are directly involved in the metabolism and have a certain effect on it, which consists, first of all, in increasing the level of vital activity of the plant organism.

Gibbersib
Gibbersib is one of the most widely used plant growth stimulants in the world today. Gibbersib increases the yield and quality of vegetables (including potatoes), fruit and berry crops due to:
- stimulating the growth and development of plants
- increasing the number of fruit set
- accelerated ripening of the crop
- increasing resistance to diseases.

Potatoes are among the plants that are extremely sensitive to Gibbersib and respond positively to highly diluted solutions of this drug (0.005%). According to official data, pre-sowing treatment of potato tubers with Gibbersib increases the yield by 20-30%.

Epin and Silk
These phytohormones stimulate the formation of stress proteins that protect the plant from a whole range of harmful effects. As a result, plants begin to develop more efficiently. For example, employees of Oryol State University studied in detail the effect of phytohormones on potato plants. They found that it is phytohormones that regulate the intake of assimilated substances into tubers in the second half of the growing season. The researchers also managed to prove that the external introduction of one of the phytohormones, indoleacetic acid, leads to an acceleration of the growth of tubers, an increase in the amount of starch and fiber in them. And it turns out that only due to the fact that the plants were sprayed several times in the second half of the growing season, a significant increase in productivity is achieved.

Method 9 - humates for the benefit of the potato crop

Humates are a powerful activator of plant growth and development processes, and also have an anti-stress effect against adverse environmental factors, including diseases. Humates contribute to the production of special enzymes by the plant that help it survive in adverse conditions.

Average statistical data on long-term observations when testing humates on large potato fields indicate an increase in potato yield by 25-30%. However, experience shows that with the correct use of humates, much higher results can be achieved.

Theoretically, there are two ways to use humic preparations on potatoes: pre-planting and spraying during the growing season. To be honest, the first option requires less time and effort, and now I mainly use only it in combination with a couple of sprays of vegetative plants. Pre-planting processing. Possible in two versions:

1. Soaking the planting material in a solution of humates. This can be done both before germination of tubers, and immediately before planting. Prepared potatoes are simply poured with a humate solution (the solution is prepared according to the instructions) and left for 8-12 hours. After that, the potatoes are planted in the usual way, and the remaining solution is poured into the holes. When the first shoots appear, it is advisable to carry out hilling so as to cover the emerging shoots with loose earth. This is done in order to direct the maximum action of humates to the development of the root system, and not to the surface part of the plant.

2. Using a special preparation for potatoes Bulba, which is the finest powder that must be processed before planting potatoes. The powder adheres well to the surface of the tubers, does not crumble and provides not only nutrition for the tuber at the beginning of plant development, but also protects against fungal diseases: late blight, scab, gray and black rot. By the way, the protective and stimulating treatment of seed potatoes with this preparation is also performed before laying it for storage to protect everything from the same diseases, which is especially important for tubers with mechanical damage.

According to experimental data, the best results are obtained by combining tubers soaking in a humate solution before germination with pre-planting treatment with Bulba.

Spraying during the growing season. To a large extent, they contribute to the better development of plants in unfavorable climatic conditions, which in turn leads to an increase in yield. Especially high is the efficiency of potato planting with 0.05% solution of GUMI during the budding period.

It must be remembered that humates do not replace fertilizers, but only enhance their effect. Therefore, if you plant potatoes on poor soils, then use additional mineral and organic fertilizers normally.

Method 10 - biofungicides to help plants

Scientists have invented another interesting drug - the biofungicide Fitosporin-M, which is a culture of bacteria that is safe for humans with fungicidal and immunostimulating effects. Tubers treated before planting or twice sprayed on seedlings are less responsive to negative climatic conditions, develop better and are less affected by late blight. By the way, Fitosporin also contributes to better preservation of potato tubers in winter, if, before laying the tubers for storage, they are treated with a 10-15 times diluted solution of liquid Fitosporin (100-300 ml / 100 kg) and then dried in the shade.

Method 11 - "no" - to diseases

A mandatory agricultural practice, for example, on Dutch potato plantings, is spraying plants with drugs against late blight, a harmful disease that can destroy all plants in 3-4 days. Thus, potato fields are cultivated 5-6 times per season. Alas, this event, in principle, is not included in the list of works of our Russian gardeners. That is why the imported varieties of Dutch selection did not justify the hope of Russian potato growers for resistance to late blight, because it is achieved not on the basis of immunity, but as a result of repeated chemical treatments of plants. Of the drugs available in Russia to mere mortals for the prevention of late blight, Oxyhom is the most effective.

Method 12 - "yes" - to organics in potato fringes

Each of us, probably, paid attention to the fact that any plants planted next to compost heap, unusually powerful, including potato bushes. Practical conclusion: put organic matter in all potato fringes. And potatoes are better - after all, nutrients are never superfluous, and the soil is additionally enriched with humus. For example, in this way, I put cut flower stalks, mown grass, weeds weeded out in the borderlines - however, not all of them, and under a layer of non-sprouting other organic matter, I sprinkle everything with stale sawdust, etc. As a result, potatoes are good and earthworms expanse... Moreover, all these weeds are stacked during the summer, as they appear.

Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg


Fertilizer applications for potatoes

To increase the average yield of potatoes, it is necessary to fertilize the soil. Fertilizers are best applied of natural origin. Manure can become such a natural fertilizer. It is best to use rotted manure, it is more favorable for crop growth. In order to grow potatoes with high yields in a country house from 1 hundred square meters and 1 hectare, it is worth in the spring to bring about 10 grams of urea, potassium sulphide and about 50 grams of ash per square meter of land. In order for the potatoes to sprout well, it is worth pouring ammonium nitrate solution for one hour before planting. For 400 grams of nitrate, it is worth taking 10 liters of water.

How to spray potatoes to increase the yield

Growth process activators allow you to grow a high yield in your summer cottage. One of the growth activators are humates, which also help to fight against unfavorable environmental factors. In addition, humates help the plant to develop special enzymes that help to survive in the external environment. Such a preparation can be used as a spraying during the growing season, and also used as a pre-planting treatment. It is important to know that humates cannot replace fertilizers, but can only enhance their effect.

You can also spray the bushes and fruits with phytohormones. Their external influence leads to the growth of tubers, in addition, the amount of starch and fiber in them increases.

Gibbersib is a popular stimulant used all over the world. It stimulates growth, improves the ovary, accelerates fruit development and can protect the plant from disease.


Stimulating incisions

You can increase the yield of potatoes by manipulating the planting material. This procedure entails an increase in yield by 10 -13%. It is carried out before germination and the appearance of sprouts. The incisions are made in order to awaken the buds located in the central and lower parts of the tuber. Under normal conditions, they do not hatch at all. There are several ways to cut:

  1. Transverse.Cut the potato across almost completely, leaving a 1 cm jumper between the upper and lower parts. Each half receives uniform nutrition and gives many sprouts.
  2. Annular. Potato is cut around the circumference with a knife, deepening inward by 1 cm.With such an incision, the amount of growth and nutrients entering the crown decreases, and their inflow to the lower part of the tuber increases, due to which the number of hatching eyes grows, which also helps to get a larger crop of potatoes with weave. Ring cuts can be both transverse and vertical, and longitudinal cuts do not stimulate the awakening of the lower kidneys, so they are not so popular.


How to plant and care

The precursors to potatoes should be cabbage, cucumbers, carrots, or beets. Even in the fall, evenly sprinkle humus of chicken droppings (2-3 kg per 1 m²) on the places allocated for this culture and leave it until spring.

The planting of sprouted early potato tubers, after dusting them with wood ash, is usually carried out in early May at a distance of 70 cm from each other and to a depth of 15 cm.After the emergence of shoots up to 5-10 cm in height, the first hilling of the plants should be done, burying them entirely. In cases where frosts do come in early June, the plantings need to be protected with strips of covering nonwoven fabric.


Potatoes need to be spud twice

When the potatoes stretch up to 30-40 cm, the time comes for the second hilling, and you need to shovel it high: leave only the tops. In June and July, potatoes should be watered once a week and fed once with a solution of chicken droppings, timed to coincide with feeding other vegetables. With the Colorado potato beetle, if it appears, you need to fight immediately - as soon as it appears, without giving the opportunity to breed.


We begin to dig in the first potatoes already in mid-July

“Recently I have been using early varieties ('Lyubava', 'Red Scarlet', 'Rosara') and medium-ripening varieties ('Adretta' and 'Tuleevsky'), - wrote by Viktor Sergeenko. - A late variety of potatoes I have without a name: folk selection "... A variety with elongated-oval tubers with a purple-blue rind and a creamy flesh has also proven itself well. It is called 'Kubinka'. Young tubers can be dug in from mid-July.


Some bushes have a harvest without a small bucket

With good care, potatoes grow up to a man's waist, and some bushes have a harvest - almost a bucket! And some tubers are just giants! You can learn more about the experience of successful truck farming in the climatic conditions of Siberia by reading the book by Viktor Sergeenko “Vegetable Garden. How I Grow Healthy Vegetables ”, which can be purchased at the publisher's official online store. The author has collected his most interesting and reliable advice in it.


Watch the video: Enormous harvest of Container Grown Potatoes


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