Greenhouses and hotbeds "Teplitsa-Tsaritsa"

Greenhouses and hotbeds

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Benefits of working with us:

• Own production We are manufacturers, so we always guarantee our customers low prices and 100% product quality.

• Life time The frames of our greenhouses and greenhouses are made of durable galvanized pipes, and as a covering we use cellular polycarbonate, 4mm thick, with protection against UV radiation. This design will serve you for many years.

• A wide range of With us, you can always choose a product that will fully meet your needs - size, design shape, functionality, etc.

• Convenience You can order and pay for our goods without leaving your home. You can place an order directly by phone, and pay on our website using the "Online payment" button or pay for the goods upon receipt in cash. You can pick up the goods purchased from us on your own, or use our delivery service.

• Easy to assemble Our greenhouses, beds and greenhouses are easy to assemble. Each product is accompanied by detailed instructions, with the help of which you can easily assemble the structure and install it in the place you need. Also, you can always use the services of our installers.

• Functionality All our greenhouses are equipped with doors and vents. Additionally, you can order a system of auto-ventilation and auto-irrigation.

• Free storage If you buy a greenhouse long before the start of the summer season, you can always leave it with us for safekeeping.

We offer


Greenhouse "Mini"

5 longitudinal reinforcements
1 door, 2 vents

Greenhouse size, mProfile, zincStandard greenhouse
(between arcs 1 m)
Reinforced greenhouse
(between arcs 0.5 m)
Installation cost rub.
2 x 3 (height 1.9)20 x 20 mmRUB 11,900RUB 12,000from RUB 3,500
2 x 4 (height 1.9)20 x 20 mmRUB 14,900RUB 15,000from 4,000 rubles
2 x 5 (height 1.9)20 x 20 mmRUB 21,100RUB 21 650from 4 500 rub.

Greenhouse "Arched" and greenhouse "Arched double arc"

Greenhouse "Arched"
5 longitudinal reinforcements
2 doors, 2 vents

Greenhouse "Arched double arc"
5 longitudinal reinforcements
Crab system
2 doors, 2 vents

Greenhouse "Arched"

Greenhouse size, mProfile, zincStandard greenhouse
(between arcs 1 m)
Reinforced greenhouse
(between arcs 0.65 m)
Installation cost rub.
3 x 4 (height 2.08)25 x 25 mmRUB 15,200RUB 15 800from 4,000 rubles
3 x 6 (height 2.08)25 x 25 mmRUB 17 800RUB 18,700from 4 500 rub.
3 x 8 (height 2.08)25 x 25 mmRUB 20,700RUB 22,100from 5000 rubles
3 x 10 (height 2.08)25 x 25 mmRUB 23 600RUB 25,500from 5 500 rub.

Greenhouse "Arched double arc"

Greenhouse size, mProfile, zincStandard greenhouse
(between arcs 1 m)
Reinforced greenhouse
(between arcs 0.65 m)
Installation cost rub.
3 x 4 (height 2.05)20 x 20 mmRUB 17,700RUB 20,000from 4,000 rubles
3 x 6 (height 2.05)20 x 20 mmRUB 21,900RUB 25,000from 4 500 rub.
3 x 8 (height 2.05)20 x 20 mmRUB 25,900RUB 30,000from 5000 rubles
3 x 10 (height 2.05)20 x 20 mmRUB 30,900RUB 35,200from 5 500 rub.

Greenhouse "Drop" and greenhouse "Drop double arc"

Greenhouse "Drop"
galvanized ridge
6 longitudinal reinforcements
2 doors, 2 vents

Greenhouse "Droplet double arc"
galvanized ridge
6 longitudinal reinforcements
Crab system
2 doors, 2 vents

Greenhouse "Drop"

Greenhouse size, mProfile, zincStandard greenhouse
(step 1 m)
Reinforced greenhouse
(step 0.65 m)
Installation cost rub.
3 x 4 (height 2.15 m)25 x 25 mm zincRUB 16,700RUB 17 600from 4,000 rubles
3 x 6 (height 2.15 m)25 x 25 mm zincRUB 20,700RUB 21,600from 4 500 rub.
3 x 8 (height 2.15 m)25 x 25 mm zincRUB 23 900RUB 25 100from 5000 rubles
3 x 10 (height 2.15 m)25 x 25 mm zincRUB 27,300RUB 28 800from 5 500 rub.

Greenhouse "Droplet double arc"

Greenhouse size, mProfile, zincStandard greenhouse
(step 1 m)
Reinforced greenhouse
(step 0.65 m)
Installation cost rub.
3 x 4 (height 2.15)20 x 20 mmRUB 21,000RUB 23 800from 4 500 rub.
3 x 6 (height 2.15)20 x 20 mmRUB 28,300RUB 29 800from 5000 rubles
3 x 8 (height 2.15)20 x 20 mmRUB 33,700RUB 35,700from 5 500 rub.
3 x 10 (h. 2.15)20 x 20 mmRUB 39,100RUB 41 800from 6,000 rubles

Greenhouse "Straight-wall"

11 longitudinal reinforcements
Crab system
2 doors, 2 vents
Double arc

Greenhouse size, mProfile, zincStandard greenhouse
(step 1 m)
Reinforced greenhouse
(step 0.65 m)
Installation cost rub.
3 x 4 (height 2.1)20 x 20 mmRUB 22 350RUB 24 650from 5 500 rub.
3 x 6 (height 2.1)20 x 20 mmRUB 28,40034,000 rubles.from 6 500 rub.
3 x 8 (height 2.1)20 x 20 mm35,000 rubles41,000 rubles.from 7 500 rub.
3 x 10 (h.2.1)20 x 20 mmRUB 42,000RUB 49,000from 8 500 rub.

Greenhouse "Early"

Convenient opening on both sides
Galvanized sides included

Greenhouse size1120 mm x 2000 mm1120 mm x 4000 mm1120 mm x 6000 mm
Height 860 mm, side 150 mmRUB 5,400RUB 10,000RUB 13,700
Height 1010 mm, side 300 mmRUB 6 600RUB 11,700RUB 16,200
Installation by a specialist2,000 rublesRUB 3,0004,000 rubles

Greenhouse "Khlebnitsa"

Convenient opening on both sides
Galvanized sides included.
The foundation is no longer needed

Greenhouse size1035 mm x 2000 mm
Height 920 mm, side 150 mmRUB 5,500
Height 1070 mm, side 300 mmRUB 6 600
Installation by a specialistRUB 2,000

Components for greenhouses

Lumber foundation 100 x 100 mm
3 x 4 m - 2,500 rubles.
3 x 6 m - 3,000 rubles.
3 x 8 m - 4,000 rubles.

Galvanized tape

Window leaf with automatic opener
A window with an opener - 3,000 rubles.
Thermal actuator for the door (vents) - 2,000 rubles.
Installation - 500 rubles.

Drip irrigation system
Model Rain 3, price 2 700 rubles.

Metal beds, flower beds, compost boxes

Galvanized or polymer coated.
Reliable, comfortable, durable, safe (no sharp edges)
Large selection of colors

Our beds are packed in cardboard boxes no more than 2m long, which ensures convenient and safe transportation even in a car.
The design is easy to assemble and has a full set of fittings in stock - all the necessary holes have already been made, so you can assemble the bed manually without using special tools.

Metal beds
Any sizes, different colors, galvanized or polymer coating to choose from

Metal compost bin
Steel - 0.5 mm, dimensions 1 x 1 x 0.95 m, price - 4,200 rubles.

Metal flower bed
Polymer coated hexagonal
Various colors and sizes
One-, two- and three-tiered

Auto awnings

Car canopy
4 x 4 m - 36,000 rubles.
4 x 6 m - 46,000 rubles.
4 x 8 m - 58,000 rubles.

Shed carport
4 x 4 m - 36 300 rubles.


Arbor Severyanka
2 x 2 m - 12,500 rubles.

Arbor Yuzhanka
2 x 1.65 m - 12,000 rubles.

Shower cabins

Shower cabin 1 x 1 x 2 m
150 l - 9 800 rubles.
250 l - 10,500 rubles.

Greenhouses, hotbeds, cellular polycarbonate. (Tymovskoe)

Show contact details

Published on 02/28/2015 05:36 PM

We accept orders for a modern arched greenhouse for cellular polycarbonate "Maria Deluxe", with dimensions - 2.1 m in height, 3 m in width and 4, 6, 8 meters in length, etc. - multiples of a two-meter insert. As well as separate inserts for the greenhouse "Maria DeLuxe", spare parts for the greenhouse, greenhouses for cellular polycarbonate "Butterfly". Reinforced greenhouses "Drop-shaped", greenhouses Siberian LUX (double arc)

The arched greenhouse for honeycomb polycarbonate "Maria Deluxe" has a modern appearance and will become a real decoration of any personal plot. The elements of the greenhouse frame are made of a steel profile pipe with a section of 20 by 20 mm, ideally suited to Sakhalin conditions, does not require snow removal and additional reinforcement, which has been proven by nine years of operation. The greenhouse frame is factory-coated with a polymer coating to reduce the negative effects of corrosion on the metal. The width of the greenhouse doorway is up to 73 cm, which allows gardeners to use garden trolleys for earthwork in the greenhouse. The size of the end vents has also been increased, allowing for more flexible regulation of ventilation in the greenhouse.
The frame is collapsible, consists of rectilinear and arcuate elements and is assembled on bolts. The greenhouse is sold disassembled. Installation of the greenhouse is not particularly difficult and can be done on the site on your own in just a few hours. Of the tools, you will need wrenches for 8 and 10, a screwdriver, a knife with a retractable blade. Delivery to Pervomaisk, Smirnykh, Onor, Nogliki, Aleksandrovsk-Sakhalinsky, Khoe, Tymovskoe, Argi-Pagi, Nysh is possible
And also on sale cellular polycarbonate 3.5mm, 4mm, 6mm, 8mm thickness, size 2.1x6m, transparent and colored.

Messages: 14 Registered: 12.10.2013, 11:32 Occupation: pensioner Where from: Moscow Thanked: 1 time

Status: Offline


Message from Icem » 25.06.2018, 00:09

Status: Offline


Message from Tatiana Belikova » 25.06.2018, 06:56

synoptic Messages: 11142 Registered: 11.12.2006, 19:04 Where from: Moscow Thanks: 318 times Thanked: 2072 times

Status: Offline


Message from Charlie 83 » 09.07.2018, 21:19

Messages: 8237 Registered: 19.11.2007, 17:55 Interests: Fruit and ornamental Where from: Moscow-Butovo, a village in the Kaluga region. Thanks: 309 times Thanked: 2335 times

Status: Offline


Message from AndreyV » 10.07.2018, 10:54

synoptic Messages: 11142 Registered: 11.12.2006, 19:04 Where from: Moscow Thanks: 318 times Thanked: 2072 times

Status: Offline


Message from Charlie 83 » 10.07.2018, 11:27

Messages: 8237 Registered: 19.11.2007, 17:55 Interests: Fruit and ornamental Where from: Moscow-Butovo, a village in the Kaluga region. Thanks: 309 times Thanked: 2335 times

Status: Offline


Message from AndreyV » 10.07.2018, 13:06

Messages: 1073 Registered: 29.09.2015, 16:04 Where from: Staraya Kupavna, Moscow region Thanks: 297 times Thanked: 735 times

Status: Offline


Message from Yuri Turyansky » 11.07.2018, 00:31

Charlie, why do you need a powerful greenhouse? To pile a scrap Zaporozhets or a team of collectors on the roof?
It seems that you are not a beginner. In my opinion, the greenhouse should follow the trail. functions:
1. In it, there should be no. as comfortable as possible, i.e. b. optimal dimensions (height, width), d.b. good ventilation, d. good assembly without gaps.
2. Greenhouse d. convenient for you.
3. The greenhouse should be able to accommodate the maximum amount of plants in a comfortable location.

Proceeding from this, you exclude the tunnel greenhouse right away - useless ventilation, low, a lot of useless area along the walls, heats up a lot in the heat, is not convenient for a summer resident, fits in three three-meter rows of tomatoes (and that is not comfortable, two are better).
By and large, there are two options left:
- greenhouse along the mitlider.
- a greenhouse with a house.
According to Mitladere it is more expensive, the house is cheaper.
I saw two versions of the "house" live. Volzhsky house - I presented my impressions - here - viewtopic.php? P = 772523 # p772523.
The second house - Scandinavian from the company Stezia - I liked it, ordered it, paid for it, I will install it in October. But I ordered 3.3m wide. turnkey - 50 tyrov. Standard (3m wide) - with polycarbonate Polygal - 31 thousand rubles. Here is a link to the site -

Messages: 143 Registered: 05.04.2017, 20:21 Where from: SNT 35 km. south-east from Moscow Thanks: 29 times Thanked: 17 times

Status: Offline


Message from Yuriy » 11.07.2018, 15:33

Greenhouses and hotbeds & quot; Greenhouse-Tsaritsa & quot - garden and vegetable garden

How to make a greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate yourself.

The uncomplicated construction of cellular polycarbonate will allow you to get vegetables to the table all year round thanks to effective thermal insulation.

The strength and durability of plastics allow them to be used everywhere in many areas of human activity. Panels made of cellular polycarbonate can withstand temperatures from -50 to +120 degrees, bend easily, have good light transmission, protect against ultraviolet radiation and serve for more than 30 years. And thermal insulation is not inferior to double glazing, which is important for a greenhouse. In terms of cost, a perennial polycarbonate greenhouse can be cheaper than traditional glass-wooden structures. The price of cellular polycarbonate ranges from 500 to 1500 rubles / m2, depending on the thickness. And most importantly, you can do it yourself with a set of tools available to every home craftsman and from materials that are freely sold in hardware stores.

The construction of a greenhouse begins with the construction of the foundation. The easiest way to make a foundation is to build it from a 100x100 mm bar and cover it with a protective layer "Penatex". The service life of such a foundation is up to 5 years. The second option: a foundation made of FBS blocks (40x20x20) cm. This option will cost more, but it is much more durable. This is the most preferred foundation, it is done quickly and efficiently. The third option is the construction of a strip foundation, with a depth of 50 cm and a width of 20 cm. The disadvantage is a long production and drying time, but in quality it surpasses those previously listed.

Determine the dimensions of the greenhouse yourself, based on the area of ​​your personal plot. Usually, one door is planned in the frame, and opposite it is a window.

A greenhouse frame is assembled from a galvanized iron profile, which can be bought at any building materials store. The T-shaped ends of the frame are attached to the foundation with self-tapping screws. Internal stiffeners are located in cellular polycarbonate along the length (which can be from 3 to 12 m).

Polycarbonate is easy to cut with a carbide-tipped circular saw or jigsaw. After cutting, it is necessary to remove the chips from the internal cavities of the panel. We drill the mounting holes with an ordinary electric drill. The hole must be at least 40 mm from the edge of the panel (fig. 1).

When installing a cellular polycarbonate cover, it is necessary to take into account:

• standard panel sizes and their economical cutting

• impact of wind and snow loads

• thermal expansion of panels

• admissible bending radii of panels for arched structures

• the need to complete the panels with mounting elements (connecting and end profiles, self-adhesive tapes, self-tapping screws, thermo washers).

The correct choice of the pitch of the longitudinal supports and the transverse lathing is an important condition for the reliability of the entire structure (Fig. 2).

For the installation of cellular polycarbonate, one-piece or split polycarbonate profiles are used. The upper ends are hermetically sealed with a continuous aluminum self-adhesive tape, and the lower ones - with a perforated tape that prevents the ingress of dust and ensures the drainage of condensate. In arched structures, it is necessary to close both ends with perforated tape. Then we close the ends of the panels with special profiles (Fig. 3).

The panel in the structure must be oriented in such a way that the condensation formed inside it can drain through the internal channels of the panel and be discharged outside. To do this, we will drill several holes in the profile.

Panels with a width of 500-1050 mm are inserted into the grooves of the profiles and fixed to the longitudinal supports of the frame using self-tapping screws equipped with thermal washers. Thermal washers will provide reliable and airtight fastening of the panel, as well as eliminate "cold bridges" created by self-tapping screws. In addition, the leg of the thermal washer, resting on the structure frame, will prevent the panel from crushing.

To compensate for thermal expansion, the holes in the panel should be 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the leg of the thermal washer, and if the panel is long, they should be elongated. The recommended spacing of the point fixing is 300-400 mm (Fig. 4).

Greenhouse heating

To calculate the power of heating devices, you can use the following formula:

The glazing area multiplied by the thermal conductivity coefficient and multiplied by the temperature difference gives a value that characterizes the heat demand in kilocalories. 1 watt = 0.86 kcal / hour.

Aluminum convectors are well suited as heating devices. We will place them evenly around the perimeter.

Greenhouse soil

A soil mixture that is optimal for growing many early vegetables: 3 parts humus, 2 parts turf, 1 part sand. Add a teaspoon of superphosphate, potassium sulfate and urea to a bucket of mixture. It is advisable to lay the mixture in the fall so that pests will freeze in winter. Every year, the top layer of the soil in the greenhouse should be changed, as it becomes impoverished and accumulates many pathogenic viruses.

Greenhouses and greenhouses & quot; Greenhouse-Tsaritsa & quot - garden and vegetable garden

Consider the design and manufacture of the following greenhouses: a small wooden greenhouse, a large (tomato) greenhouse made of pipes and a greenhouse with a double film.

All greenhouses are made collapsible, that is, they are completely or partially removed for the winter. Therefore, all nodes are marked so that the next year the greenhouse can be easily assembled again. All connections are made on screws, screws, etc. Sectioning is possible, then the greenhouse is removed for the winter in sections.

The film for the greenhouse is bought as thick as possible up to 0.3 mm. The greenhouse is oriented along the west-east line.

The main material for such a greenhouse are wooden bars with a section of 40x60 mm and slats with a section of 30x40 mm

First, the greenhouse is calculated based on the width of the film panel, for example, there is a 2 m wide film, which means that the greenhouse will be covered in length by two panels. With a slope of 30 °, the width of the greenhouse will be about 1.7 m, the height - 1.4 m.

After the calculation, the site is broken down using twine, pegs and a tape measure.

At the corners of the site and the perimeter with a pitch of 0.8 m, segments of 1.5-inch water pipes 35-40 cm long are driven into the ground (Fig. 1, a). They are hammered in so that a segment with a height of about 5 cm remains above the surface of the earth. Racks made of wooden bars are inserted into these pipes. All the bars are cut from the outside by a quarter and the side longitudinal slats are attached to them. When joining the side longitudinal rails, the joint must be on one of the racks.

Install two central posts in the same way as the side ones. Saw down (align) their tops and attach the upper ridge rail to them. Then fix all the rafters by sawing them in place.

On the front sides of the greenhouse, transverse horizontal slats are fixed. For greater strength (if the greenhouse is longer than 3 m), an additional vertical stand and a transverse horizontal rail are placed in the middle.

Two sheets of film are nailed to the upper ridge rail with the help of shingles and studs. The film on the north side of the greenhouse is attached to all adjacent bars and slats using shingles and nails. At the bottom of the ground, the film is dropped.

Film sheet of the south side of the greenhouse - opening. To do this, make pockets along the side edges of the panel, welding the film with an iron. Thick twine is passed into the pockets. A bar with a section of approximately 30x30 mm with rounded edges is attached to the lower edge of the panel. A film is wound on this bar when the greenhouse is opened (Fig. 1, b). On the extreme rafters and bars, a cord is nailed with small studs, with which windows are usually sealed.

When the greenhouse is closed, the panel, covered with twine from the ends, which is in the pockets, tightly fits the rafters and bars upholstered with a cord. At the bottom, the bar is fixed with three pegs hammered at the extreme and one middle rack (bar).

The ends of the greenhouse are upholstered with foil using shingles and nails.

A large greenhouse in which you can work at full height is the dream of every gardener. Its construction is not cheap and laborious, but it pays off in climatic zones where tomatoes do not ripen in the open air.

Calculation and marking are similar to the previous greenhouse. Materials: it is desirable to have duralumin pipes with a diameter of 30-40 mm and 20 mm, but you can get by with pipes of the same diameter. Thick pipes go to racks, thin pipes go to longitudinal ties.

The general view of the frame and the joints are shown in Fig. 2, a. Let's dwell on two points: covering the frame with a film and making doors.

For the end, where there is no door, prepare a sheet of film with a pocket along the entire perimeter (Fig. 2, b), except for the bottom. It should be 30-40 mm larger than the end on each side. A suitable cord is inserted into the pocket, fixing it at the bottom, near the ground, slightly pulled together and the film is put on the frame.

The covering of the end, where the doorway is located, is done in the same way as in the previous case. To the doorway, which is made of bars, the film is attached with shingles (thin lath) and nails, as shown in Fig. 2, c.

The door leaf has pockets on three sides. On these three pockets, metal caps are placed every 15 cm. The top is attached with a rail and studs to the opening. A soft cord is nailed to the doorway along the perimeter (on the sides and bottom) and nails are driven in. Their number is equal to the number of caps, it is they who keep the door panel closed (while the film fits snugly against the cord).

The top and sides of the greenhouse are covered with foil in the same way as in a small wooden greenhouse. At the top of the panel, the films are pressed with a longitudinal rail, which is placed on the screws. At the bottom, the panels are sprinkled with earth from all sides.

The operation of film greenhouses has shown that even with small frosts, one layer of film does not save plants from death. We have to insulate the greenhouse with various auxiliary materials. In particular, you can make a greenhouse with a double film.

The frame for the greenhouse is assembled from wooden bars and slats as usual, but the "foundation" is necessarily reinforced. The pipes that hold the frame are best concreted. In this case, the frame is skewed less, and this is important when operating a greenhouse.

Stretch (Fig. 3, a) first the inner film, then the outer one. Particular attention should be paid to the stretching of the inner sheet of the film at the corners. The inner film does not need to be welded, but in this case the layer of the sha layer is laid with an allowance and well-tensioned. It turns out to be a normal seal.

Let's dwell on the most difficult node of the greenhouse - the opening slope. In fig. 3, b shows a general view (fragment), nodes and features of the device. The following should be noted here. The opening ramp upholstered with both old foil pivots on two axle bolts. In the open state, it is fixed with a wire guy.

Along all the adjoining edges on the open slope, duralumin (1-1.5 mm thick) visors are stuffed with glued insulation made of strips of greatcoat cloth. When properly manufactured, when closed, the greenhouse is reliably isolated from the surrounding cold air.

A small digression from the topic... It can be difficult to get manure, and a greenhouse with cucumbers (and other vegetables) really needs it. You can prepare a "full-blooded" manure substitute in any quantity. Fill the barrel to the top with freshly cut grass. Then fill it with water and throw in a handful of urea or some other nitrogen fertilizer. Close the barrel with a lid and place the weight on top. After 1.5-2 weeks, the "manure" is ready.

A liquid diluted with water 1: 1 or 1: 2 is poured over vegetables in a greenhouse. Solid residues are placed in a compost pit or plowed under berry bushes and fruit trees.

The liquid part of this "manure" (and solid) is completely free of helminth eggs and is extremely rich in nutrients.

In the middle lane and to the north, sustainable yields of tomatoes, cucumbers and some other crops can be obtained only in greenhouses. They also grow seedlings of various heat-loving vegetables. All this can be done with minimal daily care. But most of the land owners work and therefore visit the site only on weekends.

What are the minimum daily agricultural activities required when growing cucumbers in a greenhouse?

At the time of mass flowering in hot weather, the temperature in the greenhouse can rise above the critical (35-37 ° C), as a result, the cucumber flowers are sterilized, that is, they lose the ability to form an ovary. In this case, it is necessary to immediately ventilate the greenhouse to reduce the temperature in it.

With mass ripening, cucumbers require daily abundant watering with heated water. Otherwise, it is not possible to get a good harvest. During short-term cold snaps, as well as with prolonged rains (the soil in the greenhouse is damp), it is recommended not to water cucumbers.

Small automation of the greenhouse can help to carry out these activities.

The proposed version of the greenhouse automation has been tested in many years of operation and has made it possible to obtain sustainable yields of cucumbers every year. The daily watering of cucumbers in the greenhouse with water heated by the sun is carried out, in the event of a cold snap and prolonged rains, watering is turned off, when the greenhouse is heated above the critical temperature, it is ventilated.

Some parts of the electronic circuit can be used for other agricultural activities, which will be discussed below.

Electromechanical part represents the following. The basis of the device is a barrel for 200-250 liters (Fig. 4, a). A hole is made in the bottom of the barrel, and an outlet valve of a conventional toilet cistern is installed in it, connected by a stainless wire rod to an executive electromagnet (from an old electromagnetic starter rewound to 36 V).

A second hole is made on top of the upper edge of the barrel, where the inlet valve of the drain tank is inserted, connected to the water supply (Fig. 4, b). The axis of the float runs in a guide with a locking latch (the guide and the latch are made of sheet metal), which holds the axis of the float in the upper position (at the same time, the filling of water into the barrel from the water supply system stops). The locking latch with a nylon cord through the block is connected to the guide of the float that includes water. The guide is a stainless steel bar with a stopper at the lower end. The float is made of wood and, if necessary, loaded with metal.

The locking latch closes and opens the limit switch mounted on the rail.

The pipe coming out from the bottom of the barrel is connected to the supply pipes located in the greenhouse. Holes are made in them for uniform watering of plants.

Electronic part automated greenhouse (Fig. 4, c) has three units: regulator I, temperature sensor II and humidity sensor III.

Regulator I - consists of a time sensor (electric alarm clock "Slava"). The clock mechanism is powered by its own battery, and the contact part (CC) of the alarm clock is powered by a voltage of 12 V. The alarm clock is set at 6 o'clock.

Suppose the alarm goes off at 6 o'clock in the morning, the contact is closed. 1, relay K1 turns on. Contacts K 1.1 include a photocircuit (transistor VT1), but it does not work, as it is adjusted to reduce light (photoresistor SF-2 is directed to the sun, located at the point corresponding to 6 am).

After 3-5 minutes, the contacts KCh.1 open.

At 6 o'clock in the evening, the contacts of the KCH.1 alarm clock are closed again. Now the photocircuit turns on, and it works, that is, the K2 relay turns on, which, with its K2.2 contacts, allows the K1 relay to self-catch.

Relay K2 through contacts K2.1 turns on the intermediate relay K3 (it has powerful contacts that allow current up to 5 A). The relay, in turn, includes the EM executive electromagnet. This electromagnet (Fig. 4, a) will lift the rubber valve of the barrel outlet. Water is used for irrigation. The float that includes water (Fig. 4, b) goes down on the guide lower and lower. Having reached the stop, the float pulls the locking latch with its weight. It opens and releases the float shaft of the inlet valve. Tap water starts pouring into the barrel. Simultaneously with the release of the axis of the float of the inlet valve, the locking latch with its lower end presses on the limit switch, which is triggered and with its contacts KV.1 opens the relay circuit K1 (Fig. 4, c). It opens and the entire regulator returns to its original (original) state. The barrel is filled with water, and as soon as it reaches the desired level, the inlet valve stops the water supply, and the locking latch fixes the axis of the float.

Temperature sensor II - is an electronic circuit that works as follows. The active element of the circuit - a thermistor - reacts to temperature by changing its resistance. As soon as the temperature reaches a certain value, the circuit is triggered, turning on relay K4, which, through an intermediate relay, turns on two executive electromagnets. Using a variable resistor, you can adjust the response temperature of the temperature sensor from 0 to 40 ° C. Executive electromagnets open two vents (Fig. 4, d) at opposite ends of the greenhouse.

Moisture sensor III - turns off watering in case of waterlogged soil in the greenhouse. The active element of the sensor is two rods D from a 3336L battery with a depolarizer (only the zinc sheath is removed from the cell-cell), buried in the soil. The distance between the rods is about 20 cm. At moderate humidity, the resistance between them is about 1500 ohms.

The circuit is adjusted with a variable resistor so that it works at the desired high humidity.

When the circuit is triggered, relay K5 is turned on, opening the power circuit of relay K1 with its K5.1 contacts. The entire device is turned off. A variable resistor of 20 kOhm (in the figure is given by a dotted line) is used to set the initial humidity.

A thermal bimetallic relay of the KTP type (contacts KTP.1), which operates to open, is also included in the power supply circuit of the relay K1. It is set to a temperature of +18 ° C. At temperatures below +18 ° C, the device does not work and watering does not occur.

To power an automated greenhouse, a rectifier is made at voltages of 12 and 36 V. The electronic part is powered by a voltage of 12 V, and actuators are powered by a voltage of 36 V. Rectifier power at 36 V voltage must be at least 75 W.

Details of the electronic part. Transistors VT1, VT2, VT4, VT5 - MP16B, MP25, MP42 VT3 - MP37B. Resistors - any for a dissipation power of 0.25 W. Relays K1 and K2 - RES-9 (passport RS4.524.201), relays K3, K4, K5 - RES-10 (passport RS4.524.302).

The temperature sensor can be used as a frost detector.

Gardeners know that some activities can help avoid freezing the flowers of fruit trees. This is fuming and spraying a blooming garden with water. The latter is considered more effective. It is known from the literature that Swiss gardeners saved their gardens by spraying with water, when the air temperature dropped even to -7 ° C!

It is convenient to spray trees using "fishing rods" from spray guns, extending them up to 2.5 m.

Usually frosts at the time of flowering occur in clear weather at night. It is important to determine the moment when the air temperature drops to 0 ° C. This is where the temperature sensor comes in. An electric bell is connected to it, and the device will wake you up as soon as the critical moment comes. The garden is abundantly sprayed 3-4 times before sunrise and the air warms up to a positive temperature.

The temperature sensor is also used for heating greenhouses and houses using various electric heaters.

The moisture sensor helps to determine the need for watering the entire garden and vegetable garden.

In the middle lane and to the north, there are springs when seedlings and vegetables planted in a greenhouse die from frosts. Sometimes a double-foil greenhouse does not help either. In this case, the crop can be saved only by heating the greenhouse, which must necessarily have a double film coating.

A greenhouse with an area of ​​up to 10 m2 can be heated using a solar plant with a heat accumulator or using an electric water heater.

The universal solar system is intended for showers and kitchens in summer. In the spring, it can be used to heat a greenhouse. enter the word solar installation in the search field of the website and you will receive information about solar installations.

The "Solar plant" presented here is relatively easy to manufacture and consists of two main parts: a solar collector and a heat accumulator.

solar collector - the most time consuming part of the solar plant. A box with dimensions of 1500x750x100 mm is made of planed boards. At the top edges, a quarter should be selected for glass insertion. Outside, strips of iron are nailed to the edge of the box to install the second glass (Fig. 5, a). The bottom and walls inside the box are pasted over with a layer of foam plastic approximately 20 mm thick (PVA glue).

The inner cavity of the box is painted with black oil paint (first, 1 liter of paint is mixed with 1/3 of a piece of laundry soap, dissolved in a small amount of water, as a result, the matte oil paint required in this case will be obtained).

Outside, the box is covered with any paint for outdoor use. The solar collector radiator is reinforced in the box (Fig. 5, b). It is a serpentine tube made of copper or brass with an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. 15-20 copper or brass corner strips are put on each elbow of the tube. Both outputs are connected to water pipes.

A solar collector radiator begins with U-shaped tube sections. They are bent using a device similar to a device for bending water pipes.

When bending the U-shaped sections of the tubes, so that their rectilinear parts remain straight, two auxiliary tubes of a slightly larger diameter are used (as levers).

Corner planks are prepared. Sliced ​​blanks (not yet bent into a corner) are folded in an even pack and clamped in a vice.With a drill equal in diameter to the U-shaped tubes, first drill one hole. A section of a tube of this diameter is driven into it (to fix the strips in a pack), the pack of blanks is leveled, again clamped in a vice, a second hole is drilled. Then each workpiece is bent into a corner in a vice.

The assembly of the section is started. A corner strip is put on both ends of the U-shaped tube. Using a highly active flux (LETI-120 type), the bar is soldered to the tube at both points of their connection. Thus, all the corner strips are fixed in turn. Having collected all the sections, and they are made in the collector 7-8, connect them, soldering the sections with connecting pipes.

Self-centering adapter sleeves (which connect the mixers with water pipes) are soldered to both outlet pipes and the manifold is connected to the water pipes through the couplings.

The collector glasses are put on a special putty (composition in mass parts): sifted chalk - 50, dry red lead - 30, natural drying oil - 18-20.

Heat accumulator is an ordinary barrel with a capacity of 20 liters. The barrel is placed in a wooden box and carefully insulated (Fig. 5, d). To do this, a cross-shaped wooden stand is laid on the bottom of the box and all the free space in the stand is laid with mineral felt (cotton wool). The barrel is placed in a box on a stand and the entire space between the barrel and the walls of the box is filled with mineral felt. The thickness of the insulating layer is everywhere at least 80 mm.

The removable barrel lid is insulated with a mattress with mineral felt (its thickness is also 80 mm).

Five pipes fit the barrel: two from the solar collector, two from the radiator located in the greenhouse (when powering the shower and kitchen, the upper pipe is closed by a valve, a rubber intake hose with a float is connected to the lower pipe inside the barrel) and one pipe from the water supply. On the latter, inside the barrel, an inlet valve is installed from the toilet cistern. The water outlet pipe at this valve is extended to the bottom of the barrel.

The solar collector is placed on a support in a place protected from the wind next to the heat accumulator (Fig. 5, b). The surface of the solar collector should be perpendicular to the sun's rays at noon. Therefore, the solar collector with the heat accumulator is not rigidly connected to the water pipes, but two pieces of rubber hose of a suitable diameter are placed in the gap between them.

When heating a greenhouse from a solar plant, it is necessary to make pipe entries and install several plate radiators inside it. The type of radiators, their number, the temperature in the greenhouse are determined experimentally. The supply of heated water to the greenhouse is controlled by a valve (Fig. 5, d).

All pipes leading from the solar collector to the heat accumulator and from it to the greenhouse must be carefully insulated. To do this, they are wrapped with mineral felt (about 50 mm thick), roofed on top and fixed with wire.

Naturally, greenhouse heating measures should be comprehensive. Firstly, the greenhouse is well stuffed with manure - biofuel. Secondly, a solar plant is connected to it. Thirdly, for emergencies, an electric water heater is installed in the greenhouse. The latter must have a temperature sensor that switches it on at a critical temperature.

Hot water electric heater - the device is not complicated and can be made by hand. It is the body of an unusable fire extinguisher. The top of the body is removed. At the bottom of the case, a heating element is mounted from an electric samovar with a power of 1 kW (Fig. 6, a). A removable cover is made on top.

Two water pipes are connected to the body, connecting it to the radiator. In this case, rubber sealing gaskets and nuts from water supply squeegees are used (Fig. 6, b).

With the help of a simple electrical circuit (Fig. 6, c) and the temperature sensor already known to us, the heater will automatically turn on when the temperature in the greenhouse drops to the set one.

Heater wiring diagram shown in fig. 6, c, works in the presence of an AC relay (for example, MKU-48) for a voltage of 220 V. If there is no AC relay, use a different circuit (Fig. 6, d). In this case, the relay must have contacts that allow a current of at least 5 A (capacitors C1 and C2 on both circuits are spark extinguishing capacities of 1000 pF, diodes - D226).

The circuit (Fig. 6, b) works as follows. As soon as the temperature sensor is triggered, it closes its CT contacts. Relay K.1 turns on and contacts K.1.1 closes the circuit to the heater - heating element. The heater starts heating the water, which raises the temperature in the greenhouse. As soon as the temperature in the greenhouse reaches a certain value, the temperature sensor will work and with its contacts will break the power supply circuit of the K1 relay. Relay K1 with its contacts K1.1 will open the heater (heating element) circuit, and it will turn off.

It should be noted that this heater can also be used for indoor use. In this case, all insulating gaskets are replaced with heat and oil resistant ones, and the heater is filled with settled used car oil.

Why oil and not water? This increases the temperature in the system, which increases its efficiency. It is also important that the water heater buzzes during operation and can interfere with sleep.

When growing vegetables or seedlings in a heated greenhouse in early spring, plants need lighting. According to existing standards, in total, plants must be illuminated (with daylight and artificial light) for at least 10-12 hours per day. Longer exposure to light will adversely affect the plants.

To illuminate plants in greenhouses in areas, fluorescent lamps are usually used as the most economical and give a spectrum of light close to daylight.

Currently, our industry produces a fairly wide range of fluorescent lamps. Table 1 shows some of the characteristics of such lamps.

To illuminate plants, it is better to use lamps of the LD and LDTs ​​brands.

The usual scheme for switching on fluorescent lamps is shown in Fig. 7, a. The inclusion of an additional capacitor C2-4 μF in the circuit (for 30 and 40 W lamps) increases the light output of the lamp.

In fig. 7, b shows a diagram (it was presented in print) for switching on fluorescent lamps, in which the ignition threads are burned out. Table 2 shows the characteristics of circuit elements for some lamps.

table 2


Greenhouse: installation rules

Everyone chooses greenhouses and greenhouses for their own purposes. Someone pampers themselves and loved ones with fresh vegetables, who.

Greenhouses: foundation, frame, cover

Greenhouses with an area of ​​10-15 sq.m. it is desirable to put on the foundation.

Cellular polycarbonate

Cellular polycarbonate appeared on the Russian market only a few years ago. Today it is one of the.

Greenhouses: artificial lighting

One of the main factors that play a role in choosing a greenhouse location is illumination.

How to equip a greenhouse

What is the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse? Equipment, of course. If the greenhouse is a film shelter on.

Greenhouse land: basics and rules

When installing a greenhouse on a site, you will have to decide what to make the beds from, how to avoid exhaustion.

Plants in the greenhouse: useful tips

Many people think that the key to a good harvest is an expensive and well-equipped greenhouse. Definitely it is.

What to plant in the greenhouse? Cycle of cultures

Early greenhouses can be used from the end of February, medium (semi-warm) ones from mid-March.

Early greens from our own greenhouse

The season in the greenhouse is opened by cold-resistant early ripening crops: radish, dill, watercress, Beijing.

Greenhouses and hotbeds

The best vegetables are grown under glass and plastic.

Promising methods of growing vegetable products in heated and unheated greenhouses, features of protected ground structures, new varieties of European selection, storage and transportation of vegetables - these are the main topics of the book, equipped with accessible and interesting illustrations.

Growing vegetables in greenhouses is profitable and promising, also because vegetable products from greenhouses are often ecologically much cleaner than products “from the field”.

Ecological purity is achieved by selection of special varieties for growing "under film" or "under glass", as well as by using special agricultural techniques. Shelters protect vegetables not only from unfavorable climatic influences, but also from various ecologically harmful factors - the notorious acid rain, saturated with dust particles poisonous to humans, etc. In protected ground it is easier to achieve higher consumer qualities of vegetables - better taste, higher content of vitamins and mineral salts, aromatic or medicinal substances. At the same time, it is possible to significantly reduce the concentration in fruits of compounds harmful to humans - nitrates, salts of heavy metals.

The constant rise in fuel prices forces vegetable growers to act in two directions:

  1. increase the intensity of farming (increase the yield per unit area of ​​protected soil)
  2. heat the protected ground only to the minimum temperature necessary for the proper growth and development of plants.

To save energy (and the money that is paid for it), a vegetable grower must select suitable varieties (more productive, less demanding on temperature, resistant to diseases and pests), correctly manipulate climatic factors (change temperature, humidity, light intensity), reduce the temperature at night, apply modern methods of growing vegetables in greenhouses (hydroponic, small container method, biofuel method).

It is believed that the nutritional value of vegetables grown in greenhouses is much lower than vegetables grown in the field. This is only partly true. Of course, vegetables grown in winter, in unfavorable temperature and light conditions, contain less nutrients and vitamins.

But now varieties of lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, nightshade and pumpkin crops have been developed, which are capable of developing quite quickly even in unfavorable conditions and at the same time producing biologically complete fruits.

It is increasingly practiced forcing green vegetables in greenhouses that have a beneficial effect on digestion, or even medicinal ones - chicory salad, root and leaf parsley, beets, root and petiole celery, onions on a feather, watercress (cress), fennel etc.

The high nutritional value of vegetables "from under the film" is also due to the fact that the grower can regulate their mineral composition through controlled feeding.

Hydroponic and aeroponic methods make it possible to “saturate” the fruits immediately before collection with the elements necessary for a person - iron, phosphorus, magnesium.

Watch the video: How to Build a HINGED HOOPHOUSE for a Raised Bed Garden


  1. Siwili

    You were visited with an excellent idea

  2. Normando

    Your idea will come in handy

  3. Gardazahn

    Fair thinking

  4. Deveral

    I can find my way around this question. One can discuss.

  5. Agustine

    Do not give to me minute?

  6. Malagigi

    Yes you said right

  7. Nawfal

    Yes, I understand you. There is something in this and an excellent idea, I agree with you.

Write a message