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Stromant

Stromant


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Stromanta is one of the representatives of the arrowroot family. This perennial ornamental deciduous plant is often confused with its closest relatives, very similar to it: ktenante, calathea and arrowroot. The height of a home-grown stromant can reach about 80 cm. It is native to the rainforests of South and Central America.

The plant attracts attention with its festive look, which is created by its graceful leaves with stripes of bright green, cream or pink. The purple-violet and shiny color of the seamy side of the leaf also looks very attractive. The fact that the leaves of the stromant are always directed towards the sun is its distinctive feature. But because at night the leaves are constantly raised upward, the plant was called "praying".

When flowering in natural conditions, the plant produces a long peduncle with small flowers of a yellowish or white hue. Stromant blooms in nature, usually in the summer, and when grown in indoor conditions, its flowering, unfortunately, is practically impossible to achieve.

Stromantha care at home

Stromanta is a rather whimsical and capricious plant, afraid of drafts, dry air and sudden temperature changes. And for this reason, caring for her when growing at home is accompanied by certain difficulties. Stromanta prefers to be under diffused, bright light or in partial shade. If this houseplant is in direct sunlight, or vice versa, it does not have enough light, then the leaves of the stromant become faded, and the size of the leaf plate decreases in size.

Location and lighting

For this plant, it is better to choose a place near windows oriented to the east or west. If the place is chosen on the south window, then it must be shaded. You can place the stromant on a window located in the north, but only with additional lighting with fluorescent lamps. In winter, highlighting plants is a must.

Temperature

The optimum temperature for this indoor plant is 20-30 degrees in summer and 18-20 degrees in winter. When the temperature drops below 18 degrees, the root system may be supercooled, and the plant may die. In winter, the plant must be protected from drafts, sudden temperature changes and cold air entering through the windows.

Air humidity

The optimum moisture content for growing stromant is 90%. With dry air in the room, this plant should be sprinkled daily with settled filtered water at least once or even once a day.

It is recommended to place a pot with a flower on a pallet on which wet moss, pebbles or expanded clay are placed. To increase humidity at night, you can put a plastic bag over the plant, creating such a mini-greenhouse with a favorable habitat.

Watering

It is recommended to water the stromant with abundant water each time the soil in the pot dries. For irrigation, use warm, filtered or settled water. In winter and autumn, watering should be reduced. It is very important not to bring the earthen room to dryness or stagnation of water.

The soil

The soil for growing stromant should be slightly acidic, loose and nutritious. For its preparation, a substrate is taken from peat, sand and leaf humus and fine charcoal is added to it. It is also necessary to arrange good drainage, which is ensured by filling the flower pot with expanded clay one quarter of the height of the pot.

Top dressing and fertilizers

During the growth of the stromant, it should be fed with a complex fertilizer intended for decorative deciduous plants. Top dressing is carried out with special care, since with an excess of minerals and calcium in the soil, the tropical beauty may die. Top dressing is recommended once every 2 weeks. Fertilizers diluted to half the concentration should be used for feeding.

Transfer

A plant transplant is necessary every two years during the spring-summer period. In addition, a small amount of fresh soil should be placed in the pot every spring. During each transplant, old, drying leaves must be removed.

For a flower, it is better to choose a higher pot, corresponding to the size of an earthen coma, and pour expanded clay drainage into it. It is better to take a mixture of leaf humus, sand and peat as a soil. Fine charcoal must be added to this mixture. You can also apply a store-bought primer made for palms, azaleas, or arrowroots.

Reproduction of stromant

The stromant can be propagated by three methods: by seeds, dividing the bush and rooting of the apical cuttings. The last two methods are most commonly used. Seed propagation requires a significant investment of time and considerable effort, and for these reasons this method is not often used.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

It is best to divide the stromant bush with a spring transplant. For this, the plant is removed from the flower pot and carefully divided into two or three parts. The separated parts of the flower can be immediately planted in the ground and poured abundantly with the water that has stood in the room. The next time it is necessary to water only after the soil has completely dried out. The flower pots should be covered with plastic bags and placed in a warm place until the young leaves appear.

Propagation by rooting apical cuttings

To do this, in spring or summer, the top of the stem about 10 cm long is cut off from the plant with two or three leaves located on it. Cuttings cut below the point of attachment of the leaf to the stem should be placed in water and covered with a polyethylene bag. At high humidity and high temperatures, the cutting will take root after about 6 weeks and the plant can be planted in the ground.

Growing problems

Stromanta is a very capricious plant. The smallest violation can lead to plant diseases. It will begin to dry out, the leaves will become faded. It is very difficult to bring a diseased plant back to its original form. A plant disease can be identified by the following features:

  • The leaves begin to turn yellow and dry in very bright light or when the flower is in direct sunlight. In this case, the flower should be slightly shaded.
  • Insufficient watering may cause stains on the leaves and begin to curl.
  • Slowing growth and drying of leaf tips can be caused by too dry air or the presence of spider mites. If systematic spraying does not help, you need to inspect the plant to see if a spider mite has wound up.
  • Excessive watering and stagnant water in the pots can lead to leaf fall and sluggish stems. Low room temperatures can also lead to this problem. Therefore, it is recommended to keep the room warm and apply a fungicide to treat damaged plants.
  • Overdrying of the soil and low room temperature can cause the stems to bend to the sides and the leaves to roll into tubes. Keeping the room warm and watering the plants well will help correct the situation.
  • With a lack or vice versa with an excess of nutrients in the soil, the leaves become yellow-brown at the edges, so you need to be careful about feeding the plant.

Diseases and pests

Red spider mite - under the yellowed leaves, you can see small cobwebs, talking about the defeat of the flower with a red spider mite. The appearance of whitish spots on the leaves and the subsequent fall of the leaves also speaks of the defeat of the stromant by a spider mite. To eliminate pests, remove the affected leaves and rinse the plant with heated water. Spray with derris, fitoverm, actelik, or fufan.

Scale - a change in the color of the leaves of a plant and leaf fall may indicate the presence of a scab, which sucks out cell sap from the leaves of the plant, harms it and leaves sticky secretions on them. To eliminate the pest, you need to clean the leaves with a soapy sponge and spray the stromant with 0.15% actellic solution for the preparation of which you need to dilute 1-2 ml of the drug in one liter.

Calathea / Stromanta home care


Monopodial inflorescences

There are several types of monopodial inflorescences (or botric racemose fig. 7.13).

Fig. 7.13.Types of botrymic inflorescences: but- simple inflorescences: 1 - brush 2 - ear: 3 - basket 4 - ear 5 - simple umbrella 6 - head 7 - shield b- complex inflorescences: 1 - panicle 2 - complex shield 3 - double triple 4 - brush brush in- types of aggregate inflorescences: 1 - umbrellas panicle 2 - panicle of baskets 3 - shield of baskets 4 - baskets brush 5 - ear of baskets

Simple botric Simple.botrica inflorescences (from the Greek. botrys - brush) inflorescences differ in length and shape of the main axis, and in the presence or absence of pedicels.

• Brush - a variant of the main simple inflorescences, the axis is thin, with pedicels on flowers that are more or less the same, the lengths are alternately attached to the main axis of the Oni. inflorescences are one-sided (lily of the valley) and two-sided (shield).

• bird cherry - an inflorescence similar to a brush, but at the scutellum, the lower pedicels are longer than the upper ones, and therefore all flowers are located at the same level and in the same plane (hawthorn, mountain ash).

• Umbrella - a derivative of a brush with a very thin shortened axis and flowers on pedicels of the same cherry (length, celandine, primrose).

• Head - a modified one of which, at the umbrella, the main axis grows in the form of it, and flowers on shortened pedicels (alfalfa, clover) are located on the heads.

• Ear - a derivative of the brush, which differs from the absence of pedicels (plantain).

• Earring - dangling is (that is an ear with a soft axis), bearing flowers, unisexual after flowering, the inflorescence usually falls off entirely (willow, poplar).

• Ear - a type of meaty ax, thick with an ear (corn). The ear is often surrounded by a leaf of various shapes and colors, which is called blanket or wing.

• Basket - the axis of the main inflorescence, it grows in the form of a bowl of a bed or, on which sessile flowers are located, all surrounded on the sides (often in two rows) by inflorescence modified leaves - a leaf wrapper (sunflower, Since). chamomile basket is a monopodial inflorescence, its blooming into flowers is centripetal (from the periphery to the center).

botric Compound inflorescences.Composite botric inflorescences include (aggregate) inflorescences, having the main one, on the axis there are partial (tea) inflorescences. They are characterized by the fact that the type of growth of the main axis is different than that of partial inflorescences, a panicle: for example, baskets (wormwood), ivy brush (common umbrellas), spike of baskets (cuddler Complex). forest botrica inflorescences can be closed and open.

• Complex brush (panicle) - an inflorescence with a monopodial elongated main axis, on which simple partial botric inflorescences - brushes are located. Depending on the branching degree, a double brush is distinguished, when axes (simple brushes) of the second order (sweet clover, prostrate veronica) are located on the main axis, and a triple brush having a third order axis (horseradish, large-fruited aloe). In the panicle, the lower partial inflorescences (simple brushes) branch much more strongly than the upper ones and are more developed, as a result of which the panicle has a pyramidal shape (bluegrass, lilac, panicle hydrangea).

• Ear Complex - on the elongated main axis of the inflorescence, there are simple ears, called spikelets (wheat, barley, rye) morphologically similar to a double raceme.

• Umbrella Complicated - an inflorescence with a shortened main axis, on which a rosette of upper leaves is located, called common wrapper. Axes emerge from the leaf axils, ending in partial inflorescences - simple umbrellas, which are umbrellas called. Flowers in umbrellas often have pronounced bracts that make up wrappers. Complex umbrellas are characteristic of many plants of the celery family (carrots, dill, parsley, celery). These are open inflorescences, the flowers therefore bloom in them centripetally.

Cymose(from kyma. greek - wave), or sympodial, inflorescences.Name Received by a special flowering method. Cymose (inflorescences) are sympodial (Fig. 7.14) closed, the main axis y is not expressed by them, and partial inflorescences have sympodial flowers. branching occurs in the axils of the bracts on the previous axes of the orders, i.e. blooming of flowers occurs addiction. Centrifugally, the number of lateral axes is distinguished by the main three types of cymoids: monochasium, dichasium, monochasium.

• pleiochasias (single-ray) - cymotic inflorescence, in which each maternal axis carries one daughter, under the formed flower, which completes the axis of the previous dependence. In order from the direction of the axes, two types of monohazia are distinguished: curl and gyrus.

- Curl (snail) - the axis of the second order departs from the first axis of the order, the axis of the third order, etc., from the order, but at the same time the axes move away only in one direction, twisting like a snail or curl (forget-me-not and representatives of other borage families) ...

Fig. 7.14.Types of cymosis inflorescences: but- monochasium: 1 - elementary monochasium 2 - gyrus 3 - dichasiumb- curl: 4 - simple 5 - double, or double triple 6 - curl in- pleiochasias: 7 - simple 8 - double 9 - curvature example

- thyrsa - the second axis of the order departs from the axis of the first order, from the second - the third, etc., then in one, then in the direction of the other (caustic buttercup).

• Dichasius (double-beam) - which, in the inflorescence under the apical flower of the main one, two partial inflorescences develop, with each axis of the previous order carrying two axes of the next order. Dichasia include double and forked curls.

- Crotch - under the flower of the main axis, opposite branches (ending) are formed, the axis with flowers. In the future, each of these axes also forms two oppositely located next axes of orders (carnation). This type is characteristic of inflorescences for plants with opposite foliage.

- curl Double - under the flower of the main axis, opposite two simple curls are formed (potatoes).

• multibeam (Pleiochasium) is an inflorescence in which each axis of the previous order is replaced by more than two axes of the next order (spurge, rhodiola). This type is characteristic of inflorescences for plants with a whorled leaf position.


Stromant

Genus Stromant (Stromanthe) belongs to the arrowroot family (Marantaceae) and unites 20 plant species. Their homeland is the tropics of North and South America (from Mexico to Trinidad and North Argentina).

The genus name is a combination of two Greek words - "στρῶμα" (stroma, layer, bed) and "νθος" (flower), indicating the presence of bracts supporting the flowers. There is practically no flowering in stromant plants under indoor conditions, therefore the plants are used as decorative deciduous plants.

All stromants are short perennial herbaceous plants with rather large variegated leaves with contrasting uneven stripes. Each leaf has a mechanism that allows it to turn towards the sun. The leaves fold at night, making the color of the underside more visible. By morning they look east to catch the early morning sun, but by noon they move to a more upright position so the leaves are less exposed to the bright sun.

Of all the types of stromant in indoor conditions, one species from Southeast Brazil is cultivated:

Stromant waist (Stromanthe thalia), better known by the outdated name stromanta blood red (Stromanthe sanguinea). A plant from humid Atlantic forests, often grows also on the outskirts of meadows, up to about 1700 m above sea level.

Species name refers to a related genus Thaliawhich Karl Linnaeus dedicated to the German physician Johannes Thal (1542-1583), a pioneer of botany in Germany.

It is a perennial evergreen rhizome herbaceous plant 0.5-1.5 m high, with a short, straight stem, hidden by basal leaves, from which 1-2 branches extend, ending in a bunch of leaves on wine-red petioles. Leaves are simple, oblong-ovate, with a pointed apex and a solid edge, 25-45 cm long and 6-12 cm wide, intense green, glossy above, often with a lighter stripe along the midrib, maroon below.

Inflorescences are apical, 30-50 cm long, ending in a panicle about 20 cm long and 5-7 cm in diameter, of white or pink flowers surrounded by tubular orange-red bracts, gradually changing color to reddish-pink. These dense, hanging inflorescences above foliage can sometimes be seen on plants grown in greenhouses. Pedicels and sepals are deep pink or bright red. Blooming is observed in spring and summer.

This type of stromant is prized for its lush foliage: glossy green above, purple below. However, there are a number of more decorative varieties:

  • Triostar (Tricolor) - the most common variegated variety with a height of 40-50 cm. The upper side of the leaf is very effective, it combines V-shaped irregular stripes of green, white, pink and burgundy. The inside of the leaf is burgundy. The color varies from multi-colored to almost completely green in different specimens.
  • Horticolor - leaves with stripes and spots of yellow, olive, dark and light green.
  • Magic star - resembles Triostar, but does not have pronounced stripes, white spots and lines are scattered over the leaf blade, the reverse side of the leaf is bordeaux.

Multicolor - the leaves are dark green, speckled with white or lime spots and stains, burgundy from the inside.

  • Stripestar - the leaves are green, with a white or light green pronounced midrib, burgundy below.

  • Site about a garden, a summer residence and houseplants.

    Growing seedlings at home is not an easy task that requires certain skills. Sometimes even experienced gardeners make mistakes, as a result wasting time and energy.

    Let's work together to understand the reasons for failure.

    Seeds do not sprout

    Previously, I often faced a problem - seedlings did not appear. Now I sow seeds according to the so-called method "in boiling water" - and the result is always excellent!

    I grow seedlings without picking at once in half-liter cups. I fill the containers with soil and spill it with boiling water. As soon as the earth stops burning, I sow seeds (two in a glass). I close it with cling film and wait for the first sprouts to appear.

    Valentina SEMENOVA, Svetlogorsk

    It is not necessary to look for special sowing methods to obtain seedlings. It is enough to exclude the reasons why the seeds may not germinate. This happens if:

    • the seeds have been stored incorrectly or for too long (the expiration date is usually indicated on the bag)
    • the seeds are contaminated with an infection and have not been sufficiently decontaminated
    • the seedling soil contains toxins (the problem is especially common if the soil was collected from the road or in the city)
    • the soil in which the seeds are sown is too dense or too acidic
    • the seeds were sown deep or went deep after abundant watering.

    Tatiana UGAROVA, Doctor of Biol. Sciences, Moscow

    The seed does not fall away

    Almost every season I face this problem. After the emergence of seedlings, the seed does not fall away from the cotyledon leaves. The problem is especially common in pepper seedlings. This greatly inhibits plant growth. To help the seedlings, I generously spray the seedlings with warm water from a spray bottle. Then I moisten two cotton pads in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and gently grab the seed with them. I’m holding it for a minute. The casing is soaked and comes off easily. The leaves are instantly straightened.

    Excessive seed treatment

    Before sowing, the seeds are kept for 20 minutes in a solution of soda (1 tsp for 1 tbsp of water). Sometimes I add 4 more drops of Zircon to it. When sowing, I water the soil with HB-101 solution. Usually, seedlings appear quickly, the seedlings do not get sick. But last year the seeds never came up on the first try. I had to reseed. Why did it happen?

    The soil becomes moldy

    Last year, trouble happened to the seedlings.

    After sowing, the seeds did not want to germinate for a long time. Then they appeared, but the ground was covered with a fluffy white mold. As a result, everything, including the soil, had to be thrown away. And sow the seeds again. A friend suggested that before the emergence of seedlings, it was necessary to ventilate the crops for at least 15 minutes twice a day. I followed her advice and there were no more problems.

    A similar phenomenon occurs from excess moisture and high temperature. Your friend's advice really works. But it was not necessary to throw away the soil with crops. You could simply remove the moldy seedlings with soil around them. And sprinkle the rest of the earth with sifted ash mixed with crushed tablets of activated carbon. The same composition can be used to mulch plants throughout the entire period of growing seedlings, since mold may appear later.

    Svetlana KRIVENKOVA, agronomist, Smolensk

    - Often, gardeners mix disease and pest disinfectants with fertilizers and soak seeds in these concentrated solutions in preparation for sowing. The mixture turns out to be so explosive that it can destroy fragile seeds. I recommend that you give preference to treatment with one chemical preparation (for example, for disinfection) and use some natural nutritional agent (2-3 tablespoons of freshly squeezed potato juice per 1 cup of water).


    Conditions for a flower

    The pot should be placed in a bright, warm place with a temperature of at least 18 degrees. The stromant must be provided with a sufficient amount of scattered light, otherwise the leaves will become pale and the growth rate will decrease dramatically. For watering, use soft water at room temperature; between waterings, the soil must dry out, otherwise the root system may begin to rot.

    In a hot time of the day, it is recommended to spray the flower frequently. In winter, the stromant should be placed away from radiators, as well as from windows with cold air. If the air humidity in the room is below 60%. then insect pests quickly appear on the plant (spider mite, trippe, scale insect).

    In very dry air, the stromant leaves begin to dry from the edges, the tissues turn brown and curl up into a tube. Every two weeks during the period of active growth (from spring to autumn), fertilize with complex fertilizers or every week, but in small portions.


    Pests, diseases and other problems in the cultivation of stromant

    Arrowroot are considered to be very capricious and finicky houseplants, they are often susceptible to various diseases. If the leaves dry, then first of all this means that the stromant has a lack of moisture due to the low humidity in the room.

    Beautiful decorative leaves can also boast: sansevieria, yucca, ivy, peperomia, dracaena, ficus, croton, palm, scindapsus, fern, chlorophytum, sheflera, fittonia.

    However, these can also be signs of a spider mite in the plant. In this case, wipe the leaves with a mild soapy solution and give the flower a plentiful shower. If, before drying, the leaves have lost their color and become pale, then the lighting is too intense for the plant, shading is necessary.

    Many growers wonder why the leaves of the stromant dry and curl, and sometimes become stained. This is due to improper watering. Moreover, both insufficient and excessive watering affect the flower in this way.

    In addition to the spider mites mentioned earlier, stromants are susceptible to thrips, mealy worms, whiteflies, and scale insects. Spider mites, thrips and whiteflies are destroyed by Aktellik. An ampoule of the drug is diluted in one liter of water and the affected plant is sprayed.

    You can get rid of aphids with Fitoverm. And the following remedy helps from a mealy worm: 1 tsp. Dissolve the grated soap in a liter of water and add 2 tsp. vodka. Irrigate the flower with a solution 2-3 times (until the pest disappears) at intervals of a week. It is better to cover the ground with a film to avoid soap solution getting into it.


    Watch the video: Addys: Stromanthe Triostar Propagation


    Comments:

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    2. Akikasa

      This is the scandal!

    3. Kenris

      very beautiful, if only we did it

    4. Conn

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    5. Kagagore

      In it something is. Clearly, I appreciate the help in this matter.

    6. Yozshugore

      In it something is. Thanks for an explanation. I did not know it.



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