Nemesia: planting and care in the open field, growing in the garden, photo
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Nemesia (lat.Nemesia) Is a genus of herbaceous plants and shrubs of the Noricidae family, which includes about 50 species of annuals and perennials, most of which grow in shrubs and coastal regions of South Africa. The plant got its scientific name in honor of the Greek goddess of retribution, Nemesis.
Planting and caring for nemesia
- Bloom: from June to frost.
- Landing: sowing seeds for seedlings - at the end of March, planting seedlings in open ground - at the end of May or at the beginning of June.
- Lighting: bright sunlight.
- The soil: well-drained, moderately moist, neutral or slightly acidic soil of medium fertility.
- Watering: regular, moderate, in heat and drought - more frequent and plentiful.
- Top dressing: 2-3 times per season with complex mineral or liquid organic fertilizers.
- Pinching: regular.
- Reproduction: seed.
- Pests: spider mites.
- Diseases: with excessive watering - fungal infections.
Read more about growing nemesia below.
The plant nemesia reaches a height of 30 to 60 cm. The stems of nemesia are tetrahedral, branched, sometimes pubescent, eventually curving under the weight of inflorescences and linear or lanceolate, opposite, serrated along the edge of the leaves. Numerous axillary flowers, single or collected in apical inflorescences, consist of a tubular corolla with lip-like limbs: the upper four-lobed and the lower dicotyledonous. The color of the flowers is varied.
The fruit is a capsule with a large number of black elongated seeds in whitish seedlings. Seeds of nemesia remain viable for up to 2 years.
Despite the fact that garden nemesia is represented by both annual and perennial species, in temperate climates it is grown in an annual culture.
Growing nemesia from seeds
Nemesia is planted by seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush, but since the long roots of the plant are easily damaged during division, it is best to grow nemesia by seed seedlings.
Seeds purchased in a store or collected with their own hands are sown at the end of March in seedling containers filled with a loose, moisture-absorbing substrate for flower crops, or in a mixture of peat and sand, on which a layer of snow is laid: black small seeds are clearly visible on white snow, and it is easier to distribute them over surface evenly.
Crops are covered with glass or transparent film and kept in a bright place at a temperature of 20 ºC, ventilated daily. The first shoots of nemesia should appear in 10-14 days.
With the beginning of mass germination of seeds, the container with crops is exposed to bright diffused light, and the temperature is lowered to 8-10 ºC. This is done so that the seedlings of nemesia do not stretch out. A week after the emergence of seedlings, the soil is spilled with a solution of complex fertilizer in a weak concentration. Seedling care consists in watering and carefully loosening the soil.
3-4 weeks after sowing, at the stage of development in seedlings of two or three true leaves, the seedlings dive into separate cups or pots, and the room temperature is maintained at 13 ºC. Make sure that the substrate in the cups does not dry out. Two weeks before planting in the garden, the seedlings begin to harden.
Growing nemesia at home
Actually, nemesia at home is grown only during the seedling period, and then it is planted in open ground or transferred to a balcony or veranda.
How to grow nemesia for landscaping a balcony, veranda or terrace? If you are not going to keep nemesia in your garden, you can sow seeds in February. The planting procedure and keeping conditions are absolutely the same as for seedlings, but instead of diving into cups, nemesia is planted in containers or pots, which, with the onset of heat, are taken out onto a balcony, veranda or terrace.
Planting nemesia in open ground
When to plant
In open ground, nemesia seedlings are planted after the establishment of warm weather, when the threat of frost has passed: at the end of May or at the beginning of June. An open, ventilated, sunny area with well-drained moist soil of medium fertility and a neutral or slightly acidic reaction is suitable for nemesis. Nemesia grows well in light lace partial shade.
How to plant
For planting seedlings, holes are prepared so deep that the root system of the seedling along with an earthen lump will fit in them. The distance between the plants should be 20-30 cm, since the nemesia bushes fall apart slightly. After planting and seeding, the seedlings are watered, and after the water is absorbed, the site is mulched to protect the soil from rapid evaporation of moisture.
Nemesia from seeds will bloom in late June or early July.
Planting and caring for nemesia is not time consuming. In order for the plant to bush, the tops of the shoots are regularly pinched from it. During the season, you will have to water the nemesia, especially in dry weather, weed weeds and loosen the soil around the bushes.
Nemesia flowers are fed 2-3 times during the season with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Kemira lux. Favorably accepts nemesia in the open field and organic fertilizers.
Pests and diseases
Due to the fact that nemesia is very fond of moisture, it is susceptible to fungal diseases. To avoid fungal attack of nemesia, water the plant sparingly, allowing the topsoil to dry out, but if the plant does get sick, treat it with a fugnicide solution.
Of insects, nemesia in open ground can suffer from a spider mite that feeds on the cell sap of plants, and if you find the thinnest sticky cobweb or drying and falling leaves on the bushes, take urgent action: treat the plants and the soil around them with a solution of Akarin, Aktellik, Karate, Fitoverma or some other acaricide.
When the first wave of flowering subsides, the ends of the nemesia shoots with wilted inflorescences should be cut off, and soon, with proper care, new shoots will appear from the leaf axils, which will bloom over time.
Types and varieties
Among the types of nemesia, there are those that are best grown in the garden, and there are types that can be used to decorate balconies and terraces. We present you the most popular species and varieties of nemesia in gardening.
Lush nemesia (Nemesia floribunda)
This plant reaches a height of 40 cm, the shoots of which are crowned with delicate small pale blue flowers. This species, unfortunately, is rarely found in culture, although interest in it increases over the years.
Nemesia multi-colored (Nemesia versicolor)
South African species of annual plants with highly branched thin stems up to 25 cm high and medium-sized flowers. Multicolored nemesia served as the basis for breeding many hybrids. The most famous varieties:
- Blue Bird - a plant with bright blue flowers with a yellow or white speck on the lip;
- Edelblau - flowers of this variety are of the same color as that of forget-me-nots.
Struma nemesia (Nemesia strumosa)
It is a strongly branched annual 35-40 cm high with oval sessile lower and linear upper leaves. Flowers in plants of this species are irregular in shape, swollen, without spurs, up to 25 mm in diameter, with a drooping throat, red, pink, orange or yellow, there are varieties with variegated flowers. The species has been cultivated since 1892.
The best varieties of the species are:
- Aurora - a plant up to 30 cm high with large scarlet-white flowers;
- Fanfair - variety with cream and yellow flowers;
- Sparklers - nemesia with two-tricolor flowers;
- Fire King - variety up to 30 cm high with fiery red flowers;
- Nashinel Ensign Is a well-known variety with red and white flowers.
Nemesia hybrid (Nemesia hybrida)
It combines all varieties of hybrid origin from the crossing of zombie nemesia and multicolored nemesia. As a rule, these are annuals from 30 to 60 cm in height with elongated, almost lanceolate leaves, crenate along the edge. Irregularly shaped large flowers up to 2 cm in diameter with a two-lipped corolla are collected in apical racemose inflorescences.
Hybrid nemesia is usually sold on sale in mixtures of different plant heights. For example:
- nemesia triumph - varieties of various colors up to 15 cm high;
- nemesia carnival - Plants 18-20 cm high in various colors.
Some popular varieties of hybrid nemesia are also on sale:
- nemesia Mantle of the king (cardinal) - a variety that blooms profusely with bright blue flowers with long spurs. The center of the corolla is white, along the edges of the petals there is a blue border;
- Tumbelina - a new variety 15-20 cm high with lavender-blue flowers about 3 cm in diameter.
Sanzatiya (ampelous nemesia)
It is a triploid interspecific hybrid obtained in 2009 by German breeders by crossing a perennial and an annual nemesia. There are only eight ampel varieties so far. In color, they resemble exotic fruits, therefore they received the following names: Lemon, Coconut, Peach, Blackberry, Banana, Pineapple, Mango and Cranberry, and the ampelous of these varieties are Lemon, Coconut, Banana, Pineapple and Cranberry, and Mango, Blackberry and Peach have erect peduncles.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Noricidae
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Information about Garden Plants
- Information on Perennial Plants
- Information about Herbaceous plants
- Information on Annual Plants
- Shrub Information
Sections: Garden plants Perennials Herbaceous Flowering Annuals Shrubs Plants on N Norichnikovye
What kind of plant feijoa, photo
Akka (feijoa) - a fruit plant from the myrtle family, grown as an ornamental plant. Its homeland is dry subtropics. Of the three species of the feijoa genus, only one is cultivated.
Akka Zellova (feijoa zellova) is often grown for picking edible fruits, although without them the plant looks like an ornamental one. In nature, this plant grows like a tree, and at home, like a bush. Feijoa leaves are beautiful leathery, shiny on top, and covered with a silvery fluff below. Blooms profusely, white-pink flowers are often collected in a scutellum inflorescence. With good home care, you can get 2-3 kg of berries from one plant.
Although the feijoa plant is photophilous, it grows well not only on the southern windows, but also on the east and west. The temperature is not very demanding, however, in order for the plant to bear fruit, it is better to keep it at a temperature of 8 to 12 degrees in winter.
Growing nemesia from seeds
Nemesia is usually grown with seeds, which are planted for seedlings in February or March. For planting, you can use garden soil with the addition of sand and humus, or buy special soil for flower seedlings.
Seeds of nemesia are buried in a moist substrate 0.5 cm, providing a temperature of 20 ° C and diffused light.
Under favorable conditions, nemesia seeds germinate within a week. When the first leaves appear on the seedlings, it is necessary to plant them in separate pots. You need to dive carefully, because the root system of the plant is delicate.
The seedlings are kept indoors until the frost disappears, systematically watering, and then it is time to plant them in open ground. This plant grows well in any soil, as long as it allows water to pass through and does not contain so much lime.
Taking into account the cold resistance of nemesia, some growers plant seeds directly into the ground.
Such a planting must be done in May, and the emergence of seedlings must be expected for at least 2 weeks. When the seedlings of nemesia grow up, they must be thinned out by transplanting which part of the plants to a new location. 2 months after planting nemesia seeds, the flowering period begins.
Seed planting in open ground
This growing method is preferable for the southern regions. Although the flower can multiply by self-seeding.
Sowing on the street is carried out in the spring or before winter. If the seeds are planted in November, then during the winter they will undergo natural stratification; in the beginning of spring, friendly, strong shoots will appear. Spring sowing does not give such good germination, even if the seeds are pre-prepared and processed.
Location selection and lighting
Under natural conditions, Armeria grows mainly near water. But at the same time, it does not tolerate stagnant moisture. Therefore, it is better to plant it on hills, hills, slopes. It is also preferable to choose areas that are semi-shaded. There should be enough sunlight, but it should be diffused.
The soil on the site should be slightly acidic. Sandy or rocky works well. To make it looser, you can add river sand, turf, rotted needles and dry sawdust. If the soil is alkaline, it is recommended to add a solution of acetic acid or ammonium nitrate to it.
Dig up the site in advance, remove weeds, make the necessary fertilizing. Make shallow grooves. Sow seeds to a depth of about 1-1.5 cm. Sprinkle with soil and water. If sowing is carried out in the spring, then the top can be covered with non-woven fiber to avoid cooling the soil in the event of a return of frost. The emerging seedlings must be thinned out, leaving the healthiest and strongest specimens.
How to care for magnolia in the garden
A tree or shrub can give abundant flowering and a dense crown only with proper agricultural technology.
Magnolia is a moisture-loving plant that requires regular watering. Young seedlings in open ground are irrigated once a week, pouring at least 20 liters of water under one tree or bush. In hot, dry times, the soil is moistened more often - every 2 to 3 days.
The next day after watering, the trunk circle is carefully loosened. Deep digging is not advisable, as it is possible to damage the roots, which are located close to the surface in magnolia.
How can you feed magnolia
A flowering tree is sensitive to both lack and excess of nutrients. Unbalanced soil composition leads to yellowing of leaves, stunted growth, decay of roots.
The first feeding of magnolia is carried out 2 years after planting the plant in open ground. The nutrient mixture is applied 2 times a year: in spring (during the beginning of sap flow) and by mid-summer (after flowering). For fertilization, 1 kg of mullein, 25 g of ammonium, 15 g of carbamide are taken on a bucket of water.
An adult large tree needs additional nutrition. To stimulate abundant flowering in early spring, you can feed the magnolia with organic compounds, and on the eve of budding - with phosphorus-potassium.
A flowering tree does not need crown formation. After removing the branches, the plant adapts for a long time, gets sick, does not tolerate winter well.
Sanitary pruning of magnolias is carried out in the fall or immediately after flowering. At the same time, dried inflorescences, damaged, dry shoots, branches growing inward and thickening the crown are removed. Places of cuts are washed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, sprinkled with ashes, greased with garden varnish.
Caring for shrub magnolia when growing in Siberia and the Urals does not imply spring cutting even of frozen shoots. With the onset of warmth, the ornamental plant begins intensive sap flow. If the bark is damaged, the buds fall off, the growth of the plant slows down, the risk of damage by rot, chlorosis, and scab increases.
Preparing for winter
Even frost-resistant varieties need protection from cold, wind and rodents.To do this, in early November, the lower part of the trunk, up to the 2nd tier of branches, is wrapped in burlap, a special covering material, and spruce branches.
After the first frost, the trunk space of the magnolia is filled with a thick layer of mulch. If you do this earlier, mice will hibernate in sawdust or straw.