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Growing grapes in the Leningrad region: a greenhouse or open ground?

Growing grapes in the Leningrad region: a greenhouse or open ground?


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How I "got to know" grapes

The biggest misconception of gardeners, both experienced and beginner, is that grapes require complex care. But this is not so - you can get a decent result with minimal plant care.

First of all, I would like to start with the background of my acquaintance with grapes. It was at that moment that my approaches to the cultivation of this crop were formed. More than ten years ago, I got three grape seedlings through barter. Then I was skeptical about this, and in order not to take up precious space on the site, it was decided plant seedlings on a new untreated area.

And what was my surprise when, three years later, while clearing the site for the foundation of the future house, I found in the grass two live bushes of grapes, and even with berries. Having tasted them, I was surprised, it was a new taste discovery for me: I have not yet met such shades of taste. After all, what I could have tried before, having bought bunches of berries in the store, only remotely resembled the taste of my grapes, and I had not yet traveled to the south, where it grows en masse.


As a person fascinated by plants, he began to study grapes and very soon found out that we already have it has been grown for a long time, and even our friends are doing it. On their advice, I bought a few more seedlings and planted them in a greenhouse, so my friends grew grapes exclusively in greenhouses. There was enough space in the greenhouse only for new seedlings, and those bushes that were already growing on the site, we left on the street. At first, much in the cultivation technology and in the culture itself was incomprehensible and difficult, it took a lot of time for everything, especially when spider mite.

Why I chose open ground for growing grapes

Liepsna grape variety

The new seedlings were already adults, so the first fruits in greenhouse I received it the very next year after their disembarkation. I was surprised that the bushes growing in the open field yielded no worse than the vine in the greenhouse. At the same time, care for them was minimal: I only cut them off in the fall, even forgetting to cover them for the winter. Therefore, based on observations of grapes over the past years, I can note that in open ground this culture is not affected by diseases and pests that periodically appear in the greenhouse, and plants placed in the garden require much less care.

I have already begun to select all the new varieties taking into account the fact that they are intended exclusively for growing in the open field. But since it is very difficult to find comprehensive information about the variety of interest to me, I had to personally experience it through trial and error. enumerate a very large number of varieties... Most of the varieties overwintered normally, but only those remained in my collection that had time to pick up sugar even in a cold summer, and from several varieties with similar tastes, I chose one, in my opinion, the best in taste.

By no means do I want to say that there is no need to grow grapes in a greenhouse, but only in the open field. It all depends on what goals you set. If you are chasing a large, fleshy berry, then only a greenhouse can give such a result. And if you, like me, want to eat a fragrant berry with an unusual rich taste, then it is easier to grow it on the street. The size of the fruits will be medium, those that weigh more than five grams may not pick up the right amount of sugar. If you want berries not only at the end of summer, then super-early varieties for open ground can be planted in a greenhouse, they will ripen in mid-summer, but care in the greenhouse will also require appropriate.

Let's compare what is the main difference between outdoor and greenhouse cultivation. In the spring, the grapes wake up early in the greenhouse and are frozen every year. As a result, it has to be sprayed with stimulants and insulated. In the open field, the vine wakes up much later - late May - early June, the vine and swollen buds are not afraid of recurrent frosts. Of course, there are frosts in mid-June, then young shoots need to be covered, but this happens extremely rarely.


Supaga grape variety

In the summer, watering is required in the greenhouse. The increased temperature and humidity of the air contributes to the appearance of pests and diseases. Spider mite, thrips, powdery mildew (powdery mildew), downy mildew (mildew), various rot and others - all this will sooner or later. In the open field, for all the years of my observations, grape plants do not get sick, and the affected seedlings, being planted on the street, recover within a month.

It turns out that in the open field we do without a single processing, which means that we get an environmentally friendly berry. Even if the roof is removed from the greenhouse for the winter, the snow cover in it is much less. It means that the ground there freezes more strongly, and the grapes requires serious cover... In the open ground, those varieties that overwinter require only a light dry shelter from the winter thaws, when + 5 ° C happens in January and it rains.

As a result, it turns out that the greenhouse gives the only benefit: the grapes ripen 2-3 weeks earlier, and varieties with very large berries can be grown there. But there are a lot of cons and work. In the open field, everything is much simpler, however, a more limited number of varieties can be grown there.

My opinion: is it worth spending so much effort when you can grow sweet grapes much easier, moreover, environmentally friendly? And you can buy a large fleshy berry in the store.

In my collection, the varieties Zilga, Muscat Nina, Supaga, F 14 75, the Riddle of Sharov, Thumbelina, 545, Varduva, Liepsna, Moskovsky steady, Jubilee Gailunesa, Palanga, Yadviga, Aglaya, Liepass Dzintars, Olita, Meda, Korinka grow in open ground Russian, Iza, Aleshenkin, Pink Pearl, Purple Augustus, Stella, Monica, Lucille, Alpha, Krasa Severa (Olga), Shasla Gailunesa, Tsiravas agra, Guna, Svalya, Rilines pink seed foxes and other varieties that are being introduced (introduction to culture of foreign plant species). Varieties Arcadia, 342, Radiant Kishmish and Laura grow only in a greenhouse.

Zilga grape variety

Having tested various varieties on my site, I am now more inclined to growing varieties of the Baltic selection. For gardeners who are starting to deal with grapes, I would first of all recommend choosing varieties: Zilga, Muscat Nina, Supaga, F 14 75 - has a female type of flower, but is well pollinated by another variety. These varieties have high growth vigor, good frost resistance and different flavors. Having tasted their berries, you will understand how different they are.

When pruning vines, I prefer fan-cut four sleeves, combining on one bush techniques with a knot and without a knot of replacement.

Given the unfavorable weather conditions and their consequences for the grapes, I want to warn everyone who is involved in this culture: you need to remove the shelter from the grapes as early as possible in spring.

Last year's early spring led to the fact that under cover the grapes woke up ahead of schedule and suffered from frosts in May, which in some places turned out to be very strong. It's early spring again, so the shelter needs to be removed as soon as the snow melts. If the grapes still woke up earlier, and frost is promised, spray it with Epin + Extrasol + Cytovit, or Ekofus with Epin or succinic acid and cover it with dense spunbond.

In case the grapes still suffer, then treatment is already needed with Zircon + Ekofus preparations. Even if you do nothing, the grapes will still bear fruit, but it is better to help him in order to have a good harvest.

Read the next part. Planting and forming grapes →


Grape care

Spring grape care

Taking care of grapes is difficult enough, but over time, as you gain experience, it will be much easier. Moreover, a rich harvest of delicious fruits will be the reward for your labors.

After the air temperature on the street in the springtime rises above minus 5 degrees, it will be possible to remove the shelter from the grapes. In the event that there is a high probability of return frosts, then it is not necessary to completely remove the shelter, only several holes are made in it for ventilation. After the threat of frost is left behind, and bud germination begins, then the shelter must be removed. If you want to protect the plant from frost, then treat it with Epin dissolved in cold water. It will be necessary to spray the vine 1 or 2 days before frost, while it should be borne in mind that the protective effect of Epin lasts up to one and a half weeks.

In the event that a puddle has formed near the bush during the melting of the snow, then it is necessary to scoop it out, or you can make several grooves in the soil through which the liquid will drain itself. In order to avoid stagnation of water near the bush, it should be planted on a slope or a mound of soil should be made for it. The grapes will need sanitary pruning, during which all injured and frost-damaged stems should be removed. Then you need to tie the vine on the lower wire in an inclined or vertical position. Next, a thorough examination of the plant is carried out, if any diseases are found, then you must definitely take all the necessary measures to treat it. In the event that the bush is absolutely healthy, then it will need to be sprayed with a solution of Nitrafen (200 grams of the product for 1 bucket of water), this will help protect the grapes from various diseases and pests.

Grapes, if desired, can be propagated by grafting and it is best to carry out this procedure in the spring before sap flow begins. At the same time, a complex fertilizer should be added to the soil, which does not include trace elements (Kemiru or Nitrofosku). Then it is necessary to dig up the soil in the near-trunk circle and shed it in order to increase the temperature in the soil layers in which the plant's root system is located.

Spring is the time to plant new seedlings. At the same time, they begin to form the bushes. To do this, break off all unnecessary stems, and this procedure is repeated several times until the length of the desired shoots is 0.4 m.All root shoots and extra buds should also be cut out. After 2 pairs of leaf plates grow on the pagons, young bushes will need to be treated with a fungicide. In the first days of May, young shoots should be tied to the trellis. Top dressing of grapes with complex fertilizer is carried out 1.5 weeks before it blooms. After the appearance of inflorescences, their number must be normalized, this will avoid overloading the plant.

Summer grape care

In the summer, special attention should be paid to the timely pinching of the vine, because it should not grow longer than 1.7 m. Until the middle of the summer period, such a vine needs to be fed 2 times. Also, in time, remove all stepchildren that form grapes so that he does not waste his energy on them, because he needs them for the formation of stems and ripening of fruits. In mid-July, it will be necessary to cut out those leaf plates that cover the berries from sunlight.

Every day it is necessary to inspect the bushes in order to timely detect pests or a developing disease. In the first summer weeks, for preventive purposes, grapes should be sprayed with Ridomil to protect them from a disease called mildew, while a dose of Fufanon (a drug for spider mites) must be added to the solution prepared according to the instructions. Please note that you need to mix ready-made solutions. In the first days of July, you will need to spray the plant with this product again.

Grape care in autumn

What is the care of the grapes when all the fruits have been harvested? The most important thing to do in the fall is to prepare the plant for the coming winter. The liana at this time is greatly weakened, because it spends a lot of energy on fruiting, in this regard, it must be fed with organic fertilizer, which is combined with wood ash. Also, the plant should be treated from pests and pathogenic microorganisms that can greatly harm weakened grapes. After all the leaf plates have fallen from the bush, it will be possible to proceed with the formative pruning. But at the same time, remember that it is impossible to delay this procedure too much, because during frost the wood will be extremely fragile and pruning the shoots at this time will cause serious harm to the vine.

If you grow a variety with low winter hardiness, then such bushes must be covered for the winter. Without exception, all grape varieties will need shelter for the winter if such a plant is cultivated in a region with frosty winters. To do this, it is necessary to spud the base of the grapes with soil, and also to shorten the vines so that they can be easily bent to the surface of the site. To shelter this culture, spruce branches are used. In the event that the winter is frosty, then the shelter must be covered from above with a layer of snow.

Treatment

Many gardeners are convinced that chemicals can restore health to all affected plant stems and branches, but this is a misconception. The fact is that any such drug can only destroy pathogenic microorganisms that cause diseases, but it cannot heal the affected tissues. Therefore, the importance of preventive treatments for grapes can hardly be overestimated. They will be able to protect the plant from various dangerous pests and diseases. In spring, after the length of the green shoots is 10 centimeters, the plant must be sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur (1%), Bordeaux liquid (3%) or copper oxychloride. This will improve the immune system of the grapes against felt mites and various fungi. In addition to these rather popular means among gardeners, you can use a solution of Ridomil (for 1 bucket of water from 50 to 60 grams) or Polychoma (for 1 bucket of water 80 grams). The prophylactic solution can be combined with a foliar application such as Plantafol. Spraying grapes at this time is called "on the fifth leaf."

Then you will need to spray the plant before it blooms or over the buds. Remember that during flowering, all treatments are strictly prohibited. For this spraying, you should take a systemic fungicide, for example, Strobi. When the grapes have faded, they will need to be sprayed with a systemic fungicide again. After the berries are similar in size to peas, the bushes will need to be sprayed with one of those preparations that were used in the spring, namely: copper chloride, Bordeaux liquid, colloidal sulfur, Ridomil or Polychom. The last time in the season, liana should be sprayed against oidium and mildew at the end of July, while it is necessary to use means of a short waiting period, for example: Tiovit Jet and Quadris or Tiovit Jet and Strobi, or colloidal sulfur and Strobi.

This treatment scheme is approximate. Remember, to prevent pathogens and pests from developing resistance to a particular drug, they must be replaced every year.

Watering the grapes

For the first time in a season, water the plant immediately after the winter shelter has been removed, and the vine is tied to the lower horizontal guide of the trellis. Young plants (up to 3 years old) should be watered through a dug-in plastic pipe. For 1 liana, 40 liters of lukewarm water mixed with 0.5 liters of wood ash is taken. The second watering is carried out 7 days before flowering, and the third - when the plant fades.After the green fruits begin to change their color to the color characteristic of the variety, you should stop watering the grapes. However, 7 days before the plant is sheltered for the winter, it will need a sub-winter water-charging watering. Young specimens of wine varieties and table varieties must be watered 4 times per season. Ripe specimens of wine grapes need to be watered only 1 time for the whole season, and this watering will be water-charging during the winter.

Top dressing of grapes

If during the planting of the seedling all the necessary fertilizers were introduced into the soil, then their grapes should be enough for 3-4 years. Most often, by this time, the vine will already be fully formed and begin to bear fruit, in this regard, it will need additional nutrients. What do experts advise to use for feeding this plant so that it develops better and gives a rich harvest? For top dressing, both mineral and organic fertilizers are used. Most often, manure is used as organic matter, since it contains all the nutrients that such a vine needs. If desired, manure can be replaced with compost, bird droppings or peat. Grapes also need mineral fertilizers. It is fed with such simple nitrogen-containing fertilizers as urea or ammonium nitrate. A simple or double granular superphosphate is used as a phosphorus-containing fertilizer. From potash fertilizers, potash salt, Ecoplant, sulfate or potassium chloride are recommended. The following complex mineral fertilizers are best suited for such a plant: Florovit, Master, Solution or Kemira.

The first time you need to feed the plant with dry fertilizer is after the winter shelter has been removed. To do this, use a nutrient mixture consisting of 45 grams of nitrogen and 30 grams of potassium fertilizer, as well as 40 grams of superphosphate (calculated for 1 bush). A groove is made around the plant, into which the nutrient mixture is poured, then it is covered with a layer of soil.

For the second time in a season, the grapes need to be fed 7-10 days before they bloom, for this they use an aqueous solution. To prepare it, you need to combine 10 liters of chicken manure or slurry and 20 liters of water. The container with the mixture is tightly closed, it will be ready after it has been fermenting for 10-12 days. Then the mixture is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5 or 1: 6. In 10 liters of the finished solution, add 25 grams of superphosphate and 15 grams of potassium fertilizer. For 1 bush, 10 liters of ready-made nutrient mixture is taken.

When the berries are just starting to ripen, the vines should be fed with superphosphate (50 grams per bush) and potassium fertilizer (20 grams per bush).

Also, foliar dressing has a positive effect on the growth and development of the plant; it is recommended to carry out them together with spraying the bushes with a fungicide against mildew disease. The nutrient mixture used for this type of feeding may contain both basic nutrients (phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium) and additional elements that grapes need, namely zinc, copper, manganese, boron, molybdenum and cobalt. Experienced gardeners recommend choosing ready-made preparations for such dressings, for example: Novofert, Plantafol, Kemira or Aquarin.

Nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as well as mullein and bird droppings, grapes can be fed only until the middle of the summer period. Otherwise, it may delay the ripening of the fruit. And remember to feed the grapes in moderation. An overfed plant will not bear fruit.

Tying grapes

With the help of a garter of this vine to a support, you can form a bush, which will be very easy to care for. In the event that the garter is not produced, the grapes will begin to cling to the supports that are in its path, in this case you will no longer be able to control its growth, the collection of fruits will be much more difficult, while their quantity and quality may disappoint the gardener.

Such a plant should be tied up in 2 stages:

  1. A dry garter is performed at the beginning of the spring period, after removing the winter shelter, but before the buds open. To do this, bend all the existing branches to the lower horizontal guide of the trellis and tie them to it. Try to keep the branches to be tied bent smoothly, in this case, the conducting system will not be disturbed, and the necessary nutrients will flow to the eyes.
  2. A green garter is produced after the green shoots begin to grow, and their length will be at least 0.4 m. Young shoots should be gartered at an angle, in this case they will be evenly lit and will not break from gusts of wind. After the shoots have grown to the next horizontal guide, they will need to be tied to it. During the growing season, young stems will need to be tied to the support 3 or 4 times. Green shoots are not tied behind the upper internode. You should try to pull them with a wire between the third and second buds from the end of the stem.

Experts advise using a horizontal tilting method for tying vines, because it is very convenient. However, there are growers who prefer a garter with a ring, an arc or strictly vertical. For the garter, it is recommended to use a washcloth soaked in water or a special rope (wire wrapped in paper). To prevent the abrasion of the shoots on the wire, it is necessary to fix the rope or a washcloth with a "eight", for this they are passed between the metal and the stem.


Conclusion

Planting, care and pruning of grapes in the Leningrad Region are simple processes, but they require compliance with a number of rules. Pay attention to the appearance of the seedling, choose the right variety, read the reviews of other summer residents. Non-covering varieties are planted in open ground, covering varieties - in a greenhouse. A pit with a drainage layer and loose soil is prepared for the plant. During the summer, plantings are watered with warm water, fertilized with mineral and organic fertilizers, and preventive measures are taken to protect against diseases and pests.


What are the requirements to consider when planting a shrub

You can get a good harvest of grapes from your own personal plot in the Leningrad Region if you adhere to the basic planting requirements:

  1. Plant a crop in fertile soil.
  2. Choose the most optimal landing site.
  3. Purchase suitable crop varieties.
  4. Properly care for the seedlings.

If all the requirements are taken into account, both novice gardeners and experienced gardeners will be able to get a good harvest of tasty, vitamin berries.


Greenhouse beds: optimal number and width of beds

Most often, two beds are made in greenhouses, on either side of the aisle. BUT, this is only good if the width of your greenhouse does not exceed 2-2.5 meters. But what if you have a greenhouse 3 meters wide? This is the standard for an ordinary polycarbonate greenhouse.

How many beds do you need to make? How best to arrange them and what tracks to make? In fact, everything is very simple, for a greenhouse 2 meters wide, they make classic 2 beds on the sides and a passage between them. But at 3 meters, you guessed it, they make 3 beds and 2 passes. But both there and there are options. Let's consider them in more detail:


Are the bushes frozen during the winter?

First, check the condition of your kidneys. Make incisions on the eyes, moving from the base of the branch to the top: if the buds are green, then they are healthy. But black or dark brown color indicates damage. Count the damaged kidneys and calculate what percentage of the total volume of the eyes they make up.

If less than 80% of the buds die, leave more buds on the fruit links than with normal shaping. Also, the harvest can be obtained due to the additional shoots on the fruiting branches that you left during the autumn pruning.

If annual shoots have been frostbitten or more than 80% of the buds have died on the bush, a two-stage sanitary pruning will help. Before buds bloom, remove frozen shoots and damaged sleeves. When greenery appears, complete sanitary pruning by removing unnecessary growth.

If 100% of the kidneys are damaged, check the condition of the stepsons - they are more frost-resistant and have a better chance of surviving the winter. If the buds of the stepchildren have died, try to form fruit links from shoots (shoots developing from the underground part of the stem) or tops (fattening shoots of a grape bush growing from buds on perennial branches).

Look at how the core is colored on the cut: its bright green color indicates a good condition of the shoot, slightly brownish indicates minor damage. But shoots with a dark brown core must be removed.

When the entire above-ground part of the bush dies, a cut is made "for a black head." To do this, dig in the bush to a depth of 25-30 cm and cut down the entire above-ground part above the healthy node. Then cover the stump with earth (5 cm layer), and soon young shoots will begin to grow from the trunk. Leave the strongest of them, and remove excess growth. This will give you a healthy new vine.


Grapes: my path to success. All secrets!

My mistakes

As soon as I moved into my private home from an apartment, I almost immediately got on fire growing delicious table grapes. About 7 years ago, when I was about 10 years old, going to the market specifically for grapes, I bought 9 varieties ('Argo', 'Laura', 'Katrusya', 'Rumba', 'Ruta', 'Arcadia', 'Tason ',' Victor ',' Hadji Murat '), knowing nothing at all about cultivation. The seller did not even say a word about leaving. This all happened in April.

Having bought, with joy, I immediately planted them in the prepared holes, which I very much regretted. The seedlings were grown in a greenhouse and, of course, not all survived after return frosts. But that was only the beginning. When the vines began to grow back, I was confronted with diseases and was a little shocked - do you also need to process the grapes ?! In the fall, the most incomprehensible and scary thing for me was pruning, but somehow I managed it. In the first winter, of course, I didn't cover them - and the whole precious vine froze ... and everything was new, there was no harvest.

Already it turns out in the second year of life, in the fall, I decided to dig up the earth with humus, and it was my mistake. When I covered the grapes for the winter, the whole vine came out, and another, another year down the drain. The third year has gone, again everything in a new circle and without a crop. In the spring of the fourth year, it would seem that this is exactly this year, but the May frost influenced everything! And again ... After 4 years of "torment" my mother and I made a barter: I gave my one garden bed, and in return took the greenhouse where the tomatoes grew, and transplanted some varieties there in the hope of a better future.


Green - 'Anniversary of Novocherkassk', red - 'Rizamat', dark blue - 'Nadezhda AZOS'

First harvest

Only in the fifth year after planting I saw the first bunches of grapes, already in the greenhouse and even, surprisingly, on the street. Hurray, all the stars are aligned! Seeing this harvest live, these bunches, this berry size, and the taste ... Many will think that all grapes have the same taste. Not! It is completely different, each variety is individual both in taste and consistency. That's it, I fired up, I got carried away, I started buying more new varieties, and at the moment there are more than 40 varieties in my collection.


The first two photos - Veles, the last - Baikonur

Greenhouse or open ground?

I grow grapes both outdoors and in a greenhouse. All my varieties that grow in a greenhouse will calmly ripen in the open ground in the climate of the Brest region, but in the greenhouse I process only once, I do not cover for the winter, but on the street you will need to work much harder: both cover and process more than one time. It is I, of course, who choose the greenhouse, because I grow not only one grape, there are many other paradise plants in my garden, which also require a lot of maintenance. And that's why I don't have time to watch him on the street.


My greenhouse

Choosing varieties for your area

When you choose which varieties to plant, first of all you need to pay attention not to the size of the bunch and berries, but to your area where you live. For example, in Brest, if I try, I can grow almost all varieties. If you live further north, then you need to choose something from the early varieties if you plan to grow outdoors. There is such a wonderful super-early variety like 'Catalonia', it ripened for me in 2018 by July 25 on the street, the very first.


Grapes 'Catalonia'

Disease treatment

Outdoor grapes are highly susceptible to disease, especially in cold and rainy weather. Ideally, it should be processed 6 times. It is I who process before the shelter and after removing the shelter with copper sulfate, before flowering with "Ridomil" and "Topaz" and after too. In no case should it be processed during flowering! But lately, I now want to get a cleaner berry, without chemosis, so I omit a lot. For example, this year I have processed on the street only twice, and never in the greenhouse. It all depends on the weather and the health of the bushes themselves.

Shelter

I cover the grapes when long-term subzero temperatures down to -5ºC are established. I specially shape the grapes so that it is convenient to cover, so after the autumn pruning, I cover them without removing them from the support. Above the vine, I fold the window frames with a house and fill the space inside with straw, leave air vents on the sides. I open it around mid-April, but a lot depends on the weather. You cannot prune in the spring, the grapes will cry, if you have not pruned, in the spring just break off the extra buds. In the greenhouse, I do not hide.

Pruning and shaping

Pruning is done only in the fall, preferably immediately after the fall. In the first year, we grow two shoots. In the second year, in the spring, we fix them on the pergola, on the first step, which should be 40 cm from the ground, so that it is convenient to cover them in the future. So far, you leave 3 shoots on each shoot, therefore we have 2 shoots (sleeves), a total of 6 shoots in the second year, then every year we increase the load, that is, next year, for 3 years of life, we leave 10 -12 sprouts, and so we increase every year to 30.

At the beginning of summer, on the sleeve, the closest shoot to the base, we leave without a cluster, if it is laid down, we remove it! These shoots will be called replacement shoots. In the fall, when the time for pruning comes, we prune everything, leaving only replacement shoots, and we also prune them to the length you need.


How do I shape

Top dressing and watering

In the first 2 years of life, the seedlings need to be watered abundantly enough, then in the open field you can not water at all, since the roots go deep into the ground and are already fed by groundwater. In the greenhouse, I spill very heavily in the spring and fall, and in the summer I water it once a month. During the period of pouring, the berries should never be watered, otherwise the berry may crack and will not be able to fully collect sugar.

Top dressing I spend in the spring and early summer: first with superphosphate, then organic. I dig a hole next to the plant, put fertilizer into it and spill 2-3 watering cans of water, then I bury it back.

Some moments

We always cut off the side stepsons and antennae. It is very important to pinch the main point of growth of the shoot in order to provoke the best ripening of the vine, we do this at the beginning of August.

The most delicious variety

All varieties are very tasty when fully ripe and, most importantly, they are individual! Each has its own flavor, its own consistency. Some varieties have nutmeg - it's just magic.


'Hadji Murat', 'Gift to Ukraine', 'Veles', 'Laura', 'Katrusya'

Dear friends, if you have any questions, you can find the answers to them on my instagram page, or I will answer you in messages. I hope I inspired you with this post, and you are already choosing varieties. Believe me, if you just start, you won't come off ...


Watch the video: Growing Grapes


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