Construction of a fence from a metal profile: instructions for erecting with your own hands
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A summer cottage is always a small private world, and it doesn't matter whether it is a gingerbread house with a pink flower garden, a large cottage with a pool, or an ordinary country house with three rows of vegetable beds. We love our suburban area, we try to protect from prying eyes and uninvited guests, therefore we install a fence around our protected area. There are many options for fences, but today we will consider in detail how to create a fence from a metal profile with our own hands, touch on all the technological stages and analyze possible errors.
Why is the metal profile so good?
Why is it worth paying attention to the metal profile? It's simple: it is a relatively inexpensive material, strong, durable, easy to install and handle.
Any person who knows how to handle a drill, grinder and welding machine can handle the installation of a fence made of a metal profile.
There are several options for the material, therefore, when purchasing it, you should take into account the marking. Mark C stands for wall. The following varieties are suitable for the fence:
- C8 - sheets 1 m 15 cm wide with a minimum profile trapezoid height; the cheapest option;
- C20 - sheets 1 m 10 cm wide, more rigid, durable, wind-resistant; suitable for everyone who loves a competent balance of price and quality;
- C21 - sheets 1 m wide, convenient for drawing up projects and diagrams; have the maximum rib height, therefore the most durable.
In addition to the dimensions, it is necessary to pay attention to the type of polymer that covers the profile and the thickness of the zinc layer.
A combined fence on a foundation with supports made of red, yellow or white silicate bricks is very popular among the owners of country cottages.
The modern metal profile has a wide range of colors, so it can be used to decorate the territory. For example, for fencing a site with a red brick cottage, a terracotta, brown or red fence is suitable. Some types of profile sheets have an original carved top, which makes the fence not so boring.
To increase sales, many manufacturers regularly expand their product range by expanding the color base. When buying, be sure to take an interest in the variety of shades offered.
List of required materials and tools
To build a metal fence you will need:
- Sheets with a thickness of at least half a millimeter with a rib height of 20 mm. The number is easy to calculate by dividing the total length of the proposed fence by the width of one sheet.
- Supports for fastening cross beams - lag. These can be wooden or brick pillars, but profile pipes are most often used. Optimum pipe parameters: cross-section - 60mm x 60mm, wall thickness - 2 mm or more. The number of support pipes can be different, it depends on the distance between them. Do not forget about additional supports for gates and wickets.
- Lags - cross bars for fastening metal sheets. Traditionally, profile pipes are also used, but with a smaller section - 40mm x 20mm. We multiply the number of spans between the posts by two - we get the total amount of lag, or we also double the length of the fence.
- Pole concreting kit - cement, sand, gravel.
This is the main material that must be supplemented with fasteners, because the installation of a metal profile fence is impossible without fixing elements. Roofing screws with colored caps and rubber washers are ideal as fasteners.
Many parts for the construction of a metal-profile fence can be replaced with suitable sizes, for example, instead of a profile for 40mm x 20mm logs, you can use a 40mm x 40mm corner
The hats of roofing screws are specially painted in different colors so that they do not stand out in contrast against the background of colored metal tiles
The set of tools includes:
- for marking - pegs, twine, tape measure;
- to install pillars - drill, sledgehammer;
- for fastening logs and sheets - grinder, level, welding machine, drill.
Before starting work, you should check the serviceability of the power tool and the presence of all materials so that during the installation process you do not waste time looking.
Step-by-step fence construction technology
By breaking down the whole process of installing a metal profile fence into several stages, you can calculate the approximate time of completion of work and plan your working day more efficiently.
Step # 1 - drawing up the drawing and markup
The approximate length of the fence is easy to calculate based on the size of the summer cottage, but it is better to take a tape measure and carefully measure the distance, methodically entering all the numbers on a piece of paper. As a rule, a fence is erected around the entire territory, but there are exceptions when, for example, a hedge is planned to be planted in some area. The depth of the pits for the supports sometimes reaches one and a half meters, so it is necessary to take into account the communications running underground.
The places where the pillars are installed are marked with pegs, and the twine will help to line them up in even rows. The distance between the pegs should be equal to two sheets of the metal profile, that is, a little more than two meters. These are the optimal dimensions for the fence to be strong and stable. Ideally, after all measurements, a detailed diagram should appear on the sheet indicating the installation site of the proposed fence with the designation of all pillars and material calculations.
As signal pegs, you can use long cuts of boards, bars, sticks - the main thing is that you can easily navigate along them
For the convenience of work, the diagram should indicate the dimensions of all materials used: the width of the sheets of the metal profile, the cross-section of the support pipes, transverse beams
Step # 2 - installing support pillars
Signal pegs indicate where you need to dig a hole for each support post, in our case - a profile metal pipe with a cross section of 60mm x 60mm. The pipe can be placed in the ground in three ways: screw it in (in this case it is not suitable), hammer in with a sledgehammer (also a very dubious method, you can only use it at the final stage) or dig a hole under the post, and then concrete it. The concreting option is the most successful and easy to carry out.
A drill for making holes can be borrowed from friends or rented from a construction company for a small fee
In order to make the hole of the required depth, it is better to use a drill - there will be less free space around the pipe. When digging with a shovel, the hole will be too wide, and a large enough area will have to be concreted.
The result of drilling with a drill is a deep and neat hole, which is optimal for installing narrow metal pipes and further pouring with concrete
The depth of the hole should be approximately 1/3 of the height of the support. Having concreted the base, we prepare the formwork from a sheet of roofing material or plywood sheets, set the pipe at the level and fill it with mortar to the full depth. If time permits, concreting can be made in two passes - first up to half of the hole, then the rest.
For the preparation of concrete mortar, cement, sand and crushed stone are traditionally used in the proportions indicated on the packaging with cement
Many summer residents install lighting along the entire fence or in some parts of it. In this case, simultaneously with the device for the fence from the metal profile, you can dig a trench for laying the power cable.
Step # 3 - installing the crossbars
When the concrete that fixes the support pipes has matured, you can proceed to fastening the transverse beams - lags, which are the guarantor of the strength of the future fence. Profile pipes with a section of 40mm x 20mm are the most versatile in this role - they are not very massive and heavy, at the same time strong and capable of holding the weight of metal-profile sheets.
Fence lags in a fixed state are two parallel rows of shaped pipes. The lower row is fixed at a height of 30-35 cm from the ground, the second - 20-25 from the upper end of the support. Bolts or welding are used to fasten the lags. In order for the attachment points and the surface of the metal elements to serve longer, after installation, they should first be carefully primed and then painted in a color that is in harmony with the profile sheet. Two layers - primer and paint - protect the metal from moisture, respectively, from the appearance of corrosion.
All logs are attached to one side of the support pillars, usually this is the front side facing the street. Thus, the supports are only visible from the yard.
Lags and support posts must be treated with a special primer and paint for metal, for example, Rostix and Miranol from the Finnish company Tikkurila
Step # 4 - securing metal profile sheets
The final stage of installing the fence is the installation of metal sheets. Many people make the mistake of starting from the corner, when the turn of the last sheet comes, it turns out that there is one more small unfilled segment near the wicket or gate. Accordingly, it is covered with a small piece in width that looks like a patch. It is better to plan in advance how to make a fence from a metal profile so that it looks holistic and neat. To do this, work begins from the gate (wicket), moving in opposite directions. If in the area of the corners you have to use scraps of the profiled sheet, no one will notice.
During the installation of profiled sheets, it is necessary to observe the connection technology: each next sheet is fixed with an overlap of 1-2 waves (edges)
When mounting sheets, it is necessary to use a level and tape measure so that the top edge is perfectly flat. Self-tapping screws are screwed in with a drill, the remnants of the material are removed using a grinder or metal scissors.
The finished metal profile fence without decorative elements looks neat and strict, and its height hides almost the entire summer cottage
Video clips with examples of installation work
Video # 1:
Video # 2:
Video # 3:
After complete installation of the metal profile, the gate leaves or wickets are hung. One of the most convenient options for gates is sliding, for which profiled sheets can also be used. Painting of the fence is not necessary, since the material is sold completely finished. High-quality installation of the fence guarantees its long-term service.
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How to install a metal profile fence with your own hands in the country
The construction of a metal fence is a simple process, often summer residents themselves install such a fence on their site. The fence is built from a metal profile and is reliable, of course it has its pros and cons. Note that, subject to all technologies, this type of fencing has a long service life. Here you will learn how to install a metal profile fence with your own hands, instructions and useful tips will be given.
Preparing for the construction of a fence with your own hands
Before purchasing material and proceeding with the construction of a fence, it is necessary to determine its configuration, as well as calculate the minimum amount of required corrugated board, materials for the frame and base.
The simplest configuration of a corrugated sheet fence is a supporting frame consisting of vertical posts and horizontal guides. The racks are buried in the ground by 100–150 cm and are concreted using a cement-sand mixture with gravel. For the manufacture of racks, a profiled pipe 60 × 60, 60 × 50 or 50 × 50 mm is used. If desired, you can use a pipe Ø65, Ø80 or Ø90 mm.
An example of a diagram of a fence device from a profiled sheet
As horizontal logs, to which the profiled sheet will be attached, it is better to use a profiled pipe 60 × 40 mm. The thickness of the metal in both cases must be at least 2 mm. The step between the posts is no more than 3 m, and the distance between the horizontal rails is 120-135 cm.
In some cases, the supporting frame is erected from wood, but this structure does not differ in reliability. In addition, during operation, it may be necessary to repair rickety or rotten racks.
With a sufficient amount of funds, the racks can be laid out from frost-resistant, red or facing bricks. This will not only make the structure of the fence more reliable, but also give the solid fence a more aesthetically pleasing appearance. The size of the brick pillars is 380 × 380 or 510 × 510 mm.
The scheme of a fence made of corrugated board with a height of 1.8-2 m
In terms of price-quality ratio and efforts made, the option of a fence with a metal frame is the best solution. For fences and barriers of small length, for example, 5–7 m, you can use the option with concreting each individual vertical post.
If the fence is being erected around the site, then instead of concreting each support, it is recommended to fill in a strip reinforced foundation 30–100 cm deep and 30–50 cm wide. This will protect the fence structure from possible soil heaving, groundwater and mechanical stress. If the erection of a fence with a wicket and massive gates is required, then pouring the foundation is required.
The choice of corrugated board
For the construction of fences and barriers, as mentioned above, it is recommended to use a wall profiled sheet marked C8 and C25. These are sheets with a wavy surface, colored brown, blue, green or white.
If this material is not available, then instead of it you can take a universal professional sheet marked HC20 or HC35. Such a sheet has a ribbed surface protected by a polymer coating.
C8 corrugated board with a thickness of 0.7 mm is the optimal material for sheathing the fence around the site
When choosing, special attention is paid to such characteristics as:
- thickness - not less than 0.5–0.55 mm. For fences and barriers with a height of 2 m and more, it is advisable to use a profiled sheet with a thickness of 0.6-0.7 mm
- working width - for wall corrugated board C8, the working width should be 1150 mm, for universal corrugated board HC20 - 1100 mm
- metal coating - hot-dip galvanized profiled sheet with decorative and polymer coating made of polyester, purél or polydifluorionate (PVF2).
Plastoisol-coated profiled sheets (PVC 200) are not suitable for use as cladding for fences and fences. Under the influence of UV rays, this polymer is rapidly destroyed, which is fraught with the loss of anti-corrosion properties and a decrease in the service life of the corrugated board.
Instead of sheets with a working width of 1100 and 1150 cm, you can choose wider products. It all depends on how many people will carry out construction work. Even two people will find it inconvenient to work with sheets more than 2 m wide.
Calculation of the required materials
Before purchasing and delivering materials to the work site, it is necessary to calculate the corrugated board, profiled pipes for pillars and horizontal logs. As an example, we will calculate the material for fencing a plot of 20 × 30 m, which corresponds to typical summer cottages with an area of 600 m 2. For cladding, C8 corrugated board with a working width of 1150 mm will be used.
The profile pipe 60x60x2 mm is well suited as a material for the construction of the support frame
To make a fence around a plot of 6 acres you will need:
- corrugated board - for calculations, you will need to calculate the perimeter of the site, which in our case is 100 m. The total number of corrugated sheets: 100 / 1.15 = 89 pcs. For a stock, it is better to purchase 2-3 more sheets. Total: 92 pcs
- pipe for posts - as the distance between posts we take the minimum recommended value equal to 2 m. The total number of pipes for vertical posts: 100/2 = 50 pcs. As a reserve, if the step between the posts is reduced, it is better to take 2-3 more pipes. Taking into account burial in the ground up to 1.5 m, 53 pipes with a length of 3.5 m will be required.Total length of pipes: 185.5 m.
Self-tapping screws for fastening the profiled sheet to the frame guides
For the manufacture of wickets and gates, in addition to the profiled pipe, you will need galvanized hinges and handles. These accessories are selected individually with the expectation that 2-3 hinges are needed for the wicket, and 4-6 hinges for the gate.
For pouring the foundation, it is better to use ready-made cement-sand mixtures from the manufacturer in 25 kg bags. To calculate the volume of concrete, you should use online calculators. According to the dimensions from the example described above, to pour a strip foundation 100 m long, 0.3 m high and 0.3 m wide, it will take almost 15 m 3 of concrete mixture.
It is recommended to use steel reinforcement with a cross section of 4–6 and 8–12 mm as a reinforcing material. The number of reinforcement is calculated taking into account that 4 longitudinal rods and 8 transverse rods are used for knitting the frame every 140–150 mm.
Tool for work
To build a fence made of corrugated board on a bearing foundation, you will need the following tool:
- welding machine
- concrete mixer
- shovel and bayonet shovel
- manual or electric drill
- electric drill with vibration attachment
- screwdriver with nut bits
To fasten the metal profile, you will need bits with an internal hexagon
When performing work, you should remember about safety precautions. To do this, you will need to purchase protective plastic glasses, gloves and overalls. When welding, it is imperative to use a special maxi.
We mount a metal profile fence
After purchasing the country house, a plan was drawn up for its reconstruction, the first point of which was the installation of a new fence. The old fence with a wicket and a gate was wooden and heavily lopsided - it was decided to demolish it. In order not to leave the site without a fence, the old fence was left until the end of the work. The new fence was brought out half a meter in front of the old one - there was enough space for this.
Installation of a metal profile fence
When choosing a material for the fence, various options were considered: brick, natural stone and ready-made concrete panels (the so-called eurofence). The first two technologies were abandoned immediately due to their high cost and laboriousness of the installation, and doubts arose about their strength about the concrete panels. As a result, the choice fell on a fence made of profiled steel sheet, mounted on a supporting frame.
To reduce the cost of reconstruction, most of the work that did not require specific skills was planned to be carried out on our own. Due to the absence of a welding machine at that time, the connection of structural parts was carried out using studs with nuts and washers. This somewhat complicates and delays the process, but in the end it allowed to save an amount equal to half the cost of materials.
Design and calculation activities
Before starting work, the site was measured, a preliminary design was drawn up and the need for materials was calculated. The total length of the metal profile fence was 23.6 meters, the minimum height was 1700 mm. The plans provided for the installation of an entrance gate with a width of 0.8 - 0.9 m and an entrance gate with a width of 3.0 m. Movable elements of the fence - swing, opening outward.
After carrying out the calculations, a list of materials required for the construction of the fence was compiled, which includes the following items:
- Profiled steel sheet C-8x1150 dark red, 1.7 m long - 4 pieces and 1.5 m - 16 pieces.
- White silicate bricks - 500 pieces.
- Portland 500 cement - 5 bags of 50 kg.
- Sand washed and sifted quarry - 5 tons.
- Crushed stone of mixed fractions - 5 tons.
- Profiled steel pipe with a section of 40x40 mm - 60 running meters (r.m.), with a section of 20x20x1.2 mm - 24 running meters.
- Steel corner 25x25x3.5 mm - 30 r.m.
- Steel sheet 2 mm thick - 1 piece.
- Channel M12 - 4 pieces of 2.5 m.
- Awnings - 5 pieces.
- Fasteners: studs 8 mm, M8 nuts, washers, self-tapping screws, aluminum rivets and M8 bolts with a large screwdriver head.
To carry out the installation of the fence, the following tools were required:
- Shovels bayonet and shovels, buckets for bulk materials and water.
- Trough for mixing concrete.
- Angle grinder with cutting and grinding wheels.
- Electric drill with a set of drills for metal.
- Electric screwdriver.
- Rivet setter.
- Locksmith tools: wrenches, pliers, tongs, screwdrivers and nail puller.
- Roulette, hydraulic level, plumb line, angle, cord and pegs.
- Electric extension cord 50 m long.
The materials were purchased from the same company, which reduced the time and received a small bonus in the form of delivery at the expense of the seller. Warehousing was carried out in the courtyard under a canopy to avoid getting wet in case of precipitation.
Site preparation and marking
The area in front of the old fence was cleared of vegetation and debris. At the extreme points, pegs were installed, connected with a cord. With the help of a hydraulic level, zero marks were made, from which the height of the fence being erected was measured. Additional pegs are installed in the places where the gates and wickets are installed. The gaps between them were divided in equal shares and also marked for the installation of pillars.
The next item on the work plan was to prepare a trench for a sand and gravel bed and pits. The depth of the ditch should be at least 20 cm, and the depth of the pits for the posts should be about 80 - 90 cm. The excavated soil was evenly distributed over the area in front of the yard and leveled. The cushion was filled in two layers of equal thickness: first gravel, then sand flush with the earth's surface.
Support pillars 2.5 m long were installed in the two outer pits, so that their height was at least 1750 mm. After the end of the concreting of the pits, the verticality of the position of the pillars was checked using a plumb line. Crushed stone was added to the composition of the sand-cement mortar to increase its strength. All posts were pre-coated with a primer to protect against corrosion.
Cords were stretched between the established posts at a level of 25 cm from the ground, indicating the height of the supports and brickwork. At this, the preparatory measures were completed and it became possible to proceed directly to the installation of the fence.
Installation of posts and brickwork
At this stage, an assistant was needed, whose tasks included mixing the solution and supplying materials. First of all, the posts were installed and concreted. The work was simplified by stretched cords. They marked the plane of the fence, and it was necessary to control the verticality of the installation only in one direction. In the places where the gates were installed, channels were installed and concreted.
In the intervals between the posts, brickwork was made at the level indicated by the lower cord. The basis for it was the sand cushion poured and compacted at the previous stage. In the process of laying the masonry, a trowel and a special mason's hammer were used. The gaps for the installation of gates and wickets were left empty.
Installation of the supporting frame of the fence and sheathing with corrugated board
A corner was fixed on top of the support posts using cuttings of tubes with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 15 mm, as well as M8 bolts with nuts. A profiled steel pipe was installed at a level of 50 cm from the brickwork. Installation of these elements with pins and nuts was carried out after preliminary drilling.
The corrugated board was attached to the frame installed at the previous stage using rivets and self-tapping screws. This operation was carried out as follows: the sheet was wound up behind the corner and rose all the way up. In this position, it was fixed with wooden wedges, which were installed between the masonry and the corrugated board. Holes were drilled in the right places and the sheet was riveted to the corner and profile.
Manufacturing and installation of wickets and gates
This operation was carried out in two stages: the frames of the wicket and gates were assembled on an improvised slipway, and then hung and sheathed with corrugated board. The supporting structures consist of two vertical and two horizontal profiles with a section of 40x40 mm, interconnected by means of overhead triangular slopes. The corners were installed at the bottom with bolts and pipes.
The wickets and gates were hung on ready-made separate awnings, one part of which was pre-mounted to the posts. The frames were installed and fixed with wedges. The edge of the sheet was wound up behind the lower corner, after which it was pressed against the upper corner removed at that time and riveted to them. After that, the gate was equipped with a bolt, and the wicket - with an ordinary mortise lock.
Subsequently, an intercom and a mailbox were installed at the entrance. In the course of the work, the old fence was dismantled in parts, which made it possible not to expose the yard until the installation of a new fence. As a result of almost ten days of efforts, a pleasant-looking and, most importantly, a very functional protective structure was obtained. A metal profile fence is one of the most affordable and reliable types of fencing.