How old is the rose? How long have they been grown

How old is the rose? How long have they been grown

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Plants facts

Roses are flowers that have been domesticated and cultivated by humans for at least 6,000 years. Even several millennia BC, they were depicted on wall frescoes in the palaces of Assyria and Babylon, as well as on coins. Rose, as a symbol of beauty and tenderness, is often mentioned in sacred books: the Koran and the Bible. And the rose, by the decision of the Congress in 1986, is officially the national flower of the United States. Also, this flower is represented in the state symbols of England and Iran. In the coat of arms of the English kings, it has been present since the time of the Tudor dynasty.

Sections: Interesting facts

A simple way to grow a rose from cuttings from a bouquet

It's good if the idea to grow roses from cuttings came to you immediately, as soon as you saw the bouquet. Some growers say that you can wait for the petals to fall, and then prepare the cuttings, others suggest doing this as soon as possible, because the flowers have been cut for a long time. Over time, the edges of the stems, especially with a rare change of water in the vase, begin to rot, destructive bacteria rise higher along the stem along with the water. The longer this process lasts, the less likely it is to grow roses from a bouquet at home, simply because roots do not form if pathogens take over the plant.

Before placing roses in a vase, they cut off the edges of the stems by 1.5 - 2 cm, pour clean, better spring water into the vase, it is advisable to change it daily, and at night keep the flowers in a bucket or other deep container so that above the water surface there were only their heads.

The city apartment is equipped with running water, not a spring, so the water must be defended and filtered, or at least filtered. With this care, you can admire the bouquet for several days, and then prepare the cuttings, but you should not delay this process too much.

The most productive cuttings are obtained from the middle of the stem, leaving 2 - 3 live buds on each. This is the rule that should be adopted. The stalk is cut into pieces 15-30 cm long, taking into account the location of the buds. At the bottom, the stem is cut obliquely (an angle of 45 degrees), starting from the bud itself, and the upper one is made horizontal a little higher (by 0.5 - 1 cm) of the upper bud. If there are leaves on this segment, then the lower ones are completely cut off, and the upper ones are shortened by a third, the thorns are also removed. You need to cut the stem quickly with a very sharp and disinfected tool - use a knife or pruner, which less injures the stem. Some growers advise treating the upper cut with paraffin. Now the cutting is ready for rooting.

How much sun does a rose need?

Roses, like most other garden plants, love sunny places, but suffer from the sweltering heat. They cannot grow in dense shade, although varieties that tolerate partial shade are known.

Garden near Moscow, where white roses are worshiped

Among the abiotic (i.e., non-biological) environmental factors affecting the growth and development of plants, the main one is sunlight in all its aspects (radiation, intensity, spectral composition, duration, etc.). Roses thrive in open, sunny places., this is especially important in northern areas. For Central Russia, in particular for the Moscow region, the best sites are areas with a southern exposure and a slight slope... Calculations and observations show that on the southern slopes with a slope of only 3-5 °, the soil warms up and ripens 7-10 days earlier.

A group of roses in a garden near Moscow

It is believed that the best effect on roses is the morning, midday sun and the afternoon, afternoon sun. Conditions where roses receive 4-5 hours of direct sunlight are appropriate for the culture. In the shade, rose bushes stretch out, become thin-stemmed, slightly leafy and bloom weaker with smaller flowers.

Generational darling 'New Dawn' can grow in the shade too

In shading conditions, it is necessary to exclude the influence of other unfavorable factors and provide the roses with better conditions and good care (loose and fertile soil, good drainage, regular watering, balanced nutrition and ventilation).

Experienced rose lovers may have noticed that the northern side of the bush always lags behind in bloom from the southernmore illuminated.

'Gelber Engel' / W. Kordes, Sohne, 2002, ADR 2004 / revives boring conifer plantings

At the same time, an excess of sun at noon is unfavorable for roses: in some varieties, the period of blooming of the buds is accelerated, the flowers become smaller, and the colors fade. Dark-red roses especially suffer in the scorching sun, their flowers turn blue, and the tips of the petals are burned before they have had time to turn around. A light gliding shadow on a hot afternoon is useful for roses.

Pruning roses in spring

The spring direct care program for garden queens starts with sanitary mowing and thinning pruning. For these luxurious shrubs, it is imperative to strictly adhere to the deadlines: pruning can only be done until the buds begin to bloom on the roses. In order not to be late, it is best to schedule pruning immediately after the winter shelter is removed and carry out it within a week.

Roses that have successfully survived wintering should be carefully examined, paying special attention to the bushes planted only last fall. All frostbitten, dry, damaged, diseased shoots should be cut to healthy tissue, just below the site of frostbite or injury.

The wild growth that appears below the place of budding (grafting) is completely removed in order to prevent the rose from running wild in time. It is better to immediately carry out the removal of the oldest branches, from 4-5 years, as well as thin shoots growing inside the bush. Treat wounds, large cuts immediately with garden varnish or a special tool.

If the roses are frozen over and seem to be dead, do not rush to dig up and throw away the bushes. Perhaps several buds have survived on the rose, and with the arrival of spring, the shrub will still come to life, release new shoots. © Jay W. Pscheidt

If sanitary cleaning is mandatory for any roses, then pruning and shaping directly depend on the species, group to which a particular bush belongs. Floribundas and hybrid tea roses are pruned in the spring, shortening all shoots by a third.

Shrub and flower-bed roses of single flowering do not form in spring, and for multi-flowering ones, the shoots are shortened by a third of their length. Ground cover roses are rarely pruned, rejuvenating the bushes every 4-5 years by cutting to 20-30 cm stumps.Repair roses only need thinning, their skeletal shoots are cut once every 3-4 years.

Climbing roses are pruned annually, leaving 3-5 buds on the side branches and always removing shoots older than 5 years, thus constantly rejuvenating the rose. Standard roses are formed along certain contours.

When carrying out spring pruning, you should strictly monitor the cleanliness and sharpness of the tools, treat them with disinfectants for each bush. Cut the sections only above a well-developed kidney (0.5 cm) and only at an angle, obliquely.

If the roses are frozen over and seem to be dead, do not rush to dig up and throw away the bushes. Perhaps several buds have survived on the rose, and with the arrival of spring, the shrub will still come to life, release new shoots. Only after making sure that the root system has died, throw the rose from the site.

Rose seedlings care

For proper development, plants are provided with 10 hours of daylight. In winter, this is done with the help of additional lighting: the seedlings are kept under a phytolamp every day for at least 10 hours in a row.

2-3 weeks after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings are fed with Fertika or any liquid humic fertilizer. At the same time, the rate of dressing for roses specified in the instructions is reduced by 2 times, because the plants are still very weak.

When several true leaves are formed on the sprout, the seedlings gradually begin to accustom themselves to a lower air temperature. For 2-3 weeks, in good weather, they are taken outside for a few minutes, then the time is gradually increased.

If the plants become crowded, they need to be transplanted into larger, separate pots. But keep in mind: containers should not be too large.

In the spring, with the onset of stably warm days (usually at the end of May), seedlings are planted in the garden. The first few days, the roses are shaded so that they better take root in a new place.

Many roses (e.g. cultivar Angel wings) bloom already 3 months after sowing. But it is better to pinch off the first buds so that the plant directs all its forces to the formation of the root system. And in this case, the next time more flowers will be tied.

Caring for roses grown from seeds is the same as for seedlings. They are watered, mulched and fed. For the winter they spud well and cover with several layers of dense spunbond. After all, young roses of even the most winter-hardy varieties cannot winter safely without shelter.

Have you already had the experience of growing roses from seeds at home? Share your achievements in the comments!

Types of garden orchids

The most common orchids in garden culture are, of course, Venus's shoes in all their variety. It is these flowers that are represented by many varieties (more than 50 varieties), although in nature there are much fewer of them. Outwardly, they vaguely resemble a shoe, which is why they received such an original name. The shoes are unpretentious, very hardy, they are not afraid of cold and frost.

In their natural environment, they grow in the mixed forests of the European part of the continent, and even in Siberia. However, for growing in the garden, it is better to purchase varietal orchids from German or Dutch producers (Queen's slipper, fluffy, hybrid, large-flowered) - they are more durable and grow well.

Garden orchids also include the following plants:

  • Finger-root. This flower is better known as the forest orchid. It has a long multi-flowered inflorescence, mainly in pink-lilac tones. In nature, it grows in swampy meadows, forest glades. In garden design, varieties are most often used: Fuchs, Meat-red, Spotted, Maisky.
  • Orchis. A unique flower that most closely resembles an orchid in appearance and shape. Grows in meadows, forest edges, has medicinal properties. The flowers are bright, more often variegated, but there are also monochromatic colors, collected in a large head inflorescence. Orchis thrive in any environment, so wild plants can be used for the garden.

  • Dremlik. Winter-hardy orchid with lanceolate leaves and carpal inflorescence, consisting of an arrow and many half-open flowers, similar to sleeping butterflies. Gardeners love this orchid for its delicious aroma and maximum resemblance to a real tropical plant.
  • Oreorchis is spreading. It is widely distributed in the mixed forests of Siberia, the Far East, feels great in the shade, in areas with rare grass cover, as well as in the home garden. The flower is interesting in that its flower brush is formed in the spring, and the leaves only by autumn.

The pubis is double-leaved, or night violet. This metaphor is explained by the fact that this orchid is pollinated by moths that fly to the scent released by the flower at night. The pubes bloom from June to July with white or greenish flowers, collected in a long inflorescence.

Cauliflower: Growing is encouraged

Light autumn night frosts of cauliflower are not terrible if you take care of the shelter in advance. But it so happens that in the middle of October winter may come unexpectedly and unexpectedly with the first snow. If this happens, and the cabbage has not yet grown full-fledged heads, it does not matter. You can dig up the plants, being careful not to damage the roots close to the trunk, and send the cabbage to grow in a large greenhouse or greenhouse.

There, cabbage bushes with roots need to be dug in damp ground, buried in the ground to the first leaves. The bushes are installed vertically, tighter to each other. The first time I was growing up and having studied the relevant literature, I found data that 1 sq. m of area, you can install 30-40 bushes. I don’t know, of course, what size such a cabbage bush should be, but I, quite densely composing my cabbage with 18–20 normally developed leaves, never managed to fit 1 square meter. m greenhouse more than 12 bushes. It shouldn't be a mess after all. Therefore, some information can only be verified through personal experience.

I also want to advise you to make the soil for filling cabbage roots sufficiently nutritious and light. But at the same time, it must retain moisture well. Be sure to spill it with any fungicidal agent in advance! The cabbage sent for growing remains to be covered with frames, shields, insulation and monitor the temperature in the greenhouse. The temperature under the shelter should not drop below 3-5o. And the air humidity must be maintained at 80–90%. At a temperature of 10 ° and above, cabbage will grow in 3–3.5 weeks. At 6-7o above zero, it may take 5-6 weeks.

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