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The main problems with growing pepper

The main problems with growing pepper


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← Read the first part of the article. Growing and planting seedlings of peppers

Pepper care during the growing season

Garter peppers

Harvest-weighted peppers require additional garters. Unfortunately, those garter options that are usually used in relation to tomatoes and cucumbers (meaning a garter to high horizontal supports) are completely unacceptable here. Therefore, it is necessary to substitute a corresponding peg for each pepper, and quite massive. Otherwise, the peppers with fruits cannot withstand their own weight and fall on top of each other. As a result, even partial root breaks are possible, which, of course, is completely unacceptable.

Forming peppers

Alas, in the conditions of the Urals and others like it, counting on a harvest from numerous stepchildren is not necessary. Therefore, the lower weak stepsons should be removed, and the earlier, the better. Some of the strong upper stepsons need to be left, but their number depends on the circumstances: the more light space and the longer until the end of the season, the more stepsons you can leave. Be extremely careful in the process of tying pepper, take into account the extraordinary fragility of its shoots. One wrong move - and part of a beautiful bush will be in your hands.



Pruning leaves and parts of peppers

Unfortunately, despite all the precautions, every year some of the shoots of plants due to the density of planting and the appearance of condensation on the leaves gets sick with gray rot... Diseased fruits and parts of shoots must be carefully cut to a healthy place and sent to the fire.



Top dressing peppers

All the pepper hybrids I have named above are so-called intensive type hybrids. This means that they require fractional application of increased fertilizer doses and at the same time delight us with a huge harvest. Fractional fertilization is carried out through a series of continuous fertilizing. The first four weeks after planting, the plants usually have enough fertilizers applied in advance. But then, after a month, you should start regular feeding, and at the same time not be lazy. Delay with just one potash top dressing can lead to the fact that some of the flowers will turn yellow and fall off. At first, I feed it once every two weeks, and starting from mid-June I start feeding it once a week. So, here is an approximate feeding scheme.

When feeding with sodium sulfate, you need to remember that in sunny weather it is required less, and in damp and cloudy weather - more. Therefore, it is better to increase the fertilizer dose in bad weather: instead of 1 tablespoon, put 2 tablespoons on a bucket

The first is to feed it with Azofosky or any other complex fertilizer, simply scattering it in handfuls between the bushes; then you should water the soil with slurry;

  • the second is to scatter superphosphate and ash;
  • the third is to feed with potassium sulfate (pre-dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water);
  • fourth - to carry out top dressing with Magbor fertilizer (pre-dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water);
  • fifth - to feed with Azofoskoy or any other complex fertilizer, simply scattering it in handfuls between the bushes; pour slurry over the soil.

Fertilizers potassium sulfate and magbor can be mixed in one bucket of water

Then every week you should alternately feed with ash or potassium sulfate (previously diluting 1 tbsp. A spoonful of fertilizer in 1 bucket of water). And once every three weeks add the fertilizer Magbor to this mixture (after diluting 1 tbsp. I usually do not carry out additional fertilizing with phosphorus in our conditions. In addition, during the entire growing season of plants it is very good to carry out foliar dressing. As the best for this purpose, with From my point of view (I take into account its price and effectiveness), I consider the drug "New Ideal" (1 cap per 1 liter of water) .It is worth noting that you can do without tedious feeding if instead of traditional fertilizers you switch to long-acting fertilizers. fertilizers are APIONs produced in Russia. When planting pepper seedlings, it is enough to put one bag of fertilizer (it is enough to take grade 30) under each bush (to a depth of 10 cm), and then instead of top dressing you can only water the pepper all season, and the harvest will be excellent I switched to this type of fertilizers two years ago and I cannot get enough of it, because everything has become much easier.

The drug "Fitoferm" is absolutely safe: it decomposes extremely quickly. Within two hours, according to the instructions, you can harvest the fruits. (True, personally, I harvest the fruits before spraying)

The main problems with growing pepper

When growing pepper there are two important points to keep in mind.

1. Pepper plants are demanding on soil moisture. This culture does not tolerate even its short-term drying out. Therefore, you have to water the pepper 1-2 times a week with very warm water (25 ... 30 ° C), spending 1-2 liters of water per plant. At the same time, waterlogging of both soil and air is unacceptable. At high air humidity, pollen becomes unviable. As a result, neither pollination nor fruit setting occurs. Therefore, on the one hand, it is advisable to water in the morning, i.e. before blooming flowers. On the other hand, it is extremely important to ensure the maximum possible ventilation of the greenhouse. The appearance of condensation on plants is unacceptable! This must be monitored very carefully.

2. Very often, at the time of fruiting, the pepper becomes a victim of aphids. You understand perfectly well that spraying can no longer be carried out with any chemical preparations, for example, the well-known Intavir. The drug Fitoverm can come to the rescue. True, it may take up to three sprays to finally get rid of this malicious pest.

Why isn't the fruit set?

There are many reasons why pollen turns out to be sterile and as a result pollination of flowers does not occur. I will name the main ones:

  • sudden changes in temperature;
  • rainy and cold weather;
  • lack of light;
  • lack of potassium or boron;
  • the presence of condensation, leading to an increase in pollen moisture;
  • temperature above 30 ° C, leading to complete sterility of the pollen.

Naturally, a legitimate question arises, what to do? Pepper hybrids growing on a large layer of biofuel, the soil under which is covered with a large layer of mulch in the form of leaf litter, as well as those treated with Immunocytophyte and growth stimulants, cease to react sharply to the first two factors. Although, of course, there can be no question of not closing the greenhouse with pepper on one of the nights. In this matter, it is better to play it safe. The night should always be warm. The presence of the third factor can completely rob you of your crop. The moral is the same: choose the most illuminated area on the site for a greenhouse with pepper. As for the fourth factor, everything is in your hands. You will regularly carry out feeding or switch to APIONs, and you will not have the corresponding problems. The negative influence of the fifth factor can only be partially reduced by intensively ventilating the greenhouse every day. Naturally, when it rains, you should have only one side open, and in cold windy weather, the film strip should be half open.

The last factor, alas, we cannot change.

Preparations "Gibbersib" and "Ovyaz" will provide almost complete pollination in any weather conditions

However, there is another way to dramatically increase the degree of fruit set: regularly spray the plants with appropriate preparations. Starting from the moment of flowering of pepper, it is necessary to spray once every two weeks with a stimulant of fruit formation (preparations "Gibbersib", "Ovary" or "Bud").

Let's talk about the mood of plants

Pepper, as everyone knows, is clearly a thermophilic culture. Being in our, frankly, unfavorable conditions, pepper plants experience constant stresses that reduce their vitality, make them more susceptible to all kinds of diseases. In other words, the "mood" of plants is deteriorating, despite all our efforts with you (remember yourself when there is slush on the street, and the nasty flu is still attached to you, etc.). The only way is to relieve stress, which is carried out by spraying the plants with special stimulants. There are a lot of stimulants today. They have a different spectrum of action, but, one way or another, they lead to an increase in the mood of plants, and as a result to their faster development and intense fruiting.

What drugs to choose to stimulate the development of peppers?

1. In order to stimulate the development of plants about 2-3 times per season, it is worth spraying them with growth stimulants: "Epin" or "Silk".

2. In addition, to shorten the ripening period, increase the resistance of plants to diseases and increase the energy of growth, it is worth using humates both in root and foliar dressings, it can be in its pure form, it can be included in the used fertilizers.

Does it make a difference when and how to harvest peppers?

Obviously, you will not process all the pepper collected at one time at a time, and during storage it loves to rot. To reduce the incidence of fruit, it must be harvested completely dry. Therefore, choose a suitable day, ventilate the greenhouse well, and only then start collecting. It should be stored in a cool, dry place in low boxes with a layer of no more than two peppers in height. It is advisable not to keep it there for too long, but to process it for three weeks. The volume of pepper that you prefer to freeze for winter stuffing is, of course, better not to store at all, but to immediately process and send to the freezer.

It is necessary to harvest the fruits in a timely manner, preventing them from ripening, since in this case new ovaries are not formed. Waiting for the biological ripeness of the pepper, you are depriving yourself of a substantial part of the harvest. Large fruits are harvested, leaving small and medium ones. Collecting medium-sized fruits also makes no sense, because they are bitter, and in general their taste leaves much to be desired.

As for the question: how to harvest, then we will have to dwell on it separately. Pepper shoots are extremely fragile. Therefore, during the collection process, you should not break off each fruit, but be sure to cut it off with scissors. Otherwise, you risk breaking all your plants. Moreover, their decay is possible in the place of faults.

What do peppers like and dislike?

Pepper likes:

  • grows only on neutral soils (acidic soils should, of course, be limed);
  • requires a deeper layer of insulated soil than that of tomato and cucumber (therefore, a high greenhouse foundation is required);
  • requires breathable soil (mulching helps);
  • prefers a temperature of 28 ... 30 ° С during the day and 18 ... 20 ° С at night (help out a high layer of biofuel, mulching, covering material and a small volume of a greenhouse);
  • requires a very neat garter due to the fragility of the stems (setting pegs to each plant).

Pepper doesn't like:

  • does not tolerate even a short-term lack of moisture in the soil (ovaries may fall off);
  • does not like deepening when planting seedlings (rotting in the area of ​​the root collar is possible);
  • does not tolerate strong and cold wind (it grows worse, it can get sick);
  • extremely sensitive to a lack of light (in this case, you are guaranteed that the ovaries will fall off);
  • does not tolerate condensation on leaves and stems (gray rot and other "delights" appear);
  • does not tolerate chlorine (therefore, only ash and potassium sulfate are used as potash fertilizers).

Svetlana Shlyakhtina


Unsuitable growing conditions

In some cases, the plant may produce poor fruit due to an unscrupulous cultivation approach.

Pepper does not tolerate a lack of moisture and its excess. On wet soils, experts recommend watering 1-2 times a week.

If you grow pepper on loam, then it is better to water the plant every other day. Of course, the regularity of watering will depend on the weather conditions.

When planting pepper, the soil must be fertilized first. To do this, it is better to use manure, since it is a natural fertilizer that does not contain concentrates.

Also, some experts recommend shaking the plant during flowering.

This allows you to significantly increase the yield. If this is not done, then the fruits will have a non-standard shape and small size.


Mistakes when growing bell peppers

Greetings, dear friends!

The nightshade vegetable pepper culture is loved by many summer residents, along with tomatoes, potatoes and eggplants. Even a novice gardener can get stable yields of sweet pepper. To do this, one should only observe the agricultural practices of the culture and avoid mistakes in caring for the plantation.

Let's consider the main mistakes when growing bell pepper in the open field and in greenhouses, as well as methods for their elimination.

Failure to comply with the terms of planting bell peppers

Pepper seedlings are planted in a permanent place only after the threat of returnable spring frosts has blown, otherwise there is a high probability of plant death. In the middle lane, according to the reviews of experienced vegetable growers, the seedlings are transferred to open ground in late May - early June. Seedlings can be planted in closed structures from the end of April, and in heated greenhouses from mid-March.

Excess nitrogen nutrition of peppers

As with all nightshade crops, pepper needs a moderate nitrogen supplement at the beginning of the growing season. Do not get carried away with the application of fertilizers with nitrogen, since overfeeding with this chemical compound leads to an increased build-up of green mass to the detriment of the formation of fruiting organs. It is enough to water the seedlings once 2 weeks after rooting in a permanent place with a weak solution of carbamide (1 dessert spoon per 10 liters of water) or a weak infusion of slurry (1:10).

Temperature violations when growing sweet peppers

If the bushes have many peduncles, but the ovaries are not formed, then there is no pollination. This can be caused by high humidity in the greenhouse and / or sudden temperature fluctuations. For plants, both heat and a sharp cold snap (below + 13 ° C) are harmful. Limit watering, regularly ventilate closed structures in the heat and heat them during a prolonged cold snap. Use solutions of preparations stimulating the formation of ovaries for processing seedlings, for example, "Bud", "Ovary".

Violation of the peppers watering regime

For pepper, both excess and deficiency of moisture in the soil are harmful. When the soil dries out or when ice water is used for irrigation, a massive fall of flowers and ovaries occurs. Water the plants with settled heated 1 time in 3-7 days, depending on the condition of the soil, when 2-3 cm of the topsoil is dry.

Nutritional deficiency of bell pepper plantings

A lack of mineral salts, especially potassium, calcium and phosphorus, in combination with a prolonged cold snap, when the temperature drops below + 15 ° C for 4-7 days, can provoke the development of fruit rot. On diseased bushes, ripening fruits rot at the point of attachment of the stalk. In a cold, cloudy summer, use foliar dressing of bell pepper with phosphorus-potassium and micronutrient fertilizers, for example, Uniflor-bud, potassium nitrate solution, ash infusion.

During budding and flowering, add plant ash under the root at the rate of 1-2 glasses for each running meter (before scheduled watering). An increase in stress resistance and immunity of seedlings is facilitated by treatment with Zircon, Epig-extroy, Silk, Ekoberin, which are performed in the early morning, having prepared a solution, according to the instructions on the package.

Consider the recommendations of experienced summer residents, you will not make major mistakes when growing bell pepper. And then you are guaranteed stable yields of your favorite vegetables, regardless of whether you grow them in the beds, in greenhouses or greenhouses. Easy labor for you in your garden and summer cottage! See you!


Basic rules for planting cabbage for seedlings: how to sow correctly at home

In order for the seedlings to turn out to be strong and healthy, it is necessary to properly sow, and first properly prepare the seeds, containers and soil, and of course it is very important to choose the optimal timing. Only strict adherence to the recommendations will help to avoid serious mistakes that can negatively affect the growth and development of cabbage seedlings in the future.

When to Sow Seeds: Optimal Sowing Timing

Note! The site already has a detailed article about how to correctly calculate the timing of sowing cabbage for seedlings, including indicated favorable days for planting in 2019 according to the lunar calendar.

Seed preparation before sowing: pre-sowing treatment

Before planting cabbage seeds, you need to prepare them. This procedure is intended for both self-collected and purchased seed. This requires a visual selection initially, screening out all damaged specimens, as well as those that are much larger or smaller than the bulk.

Then it is recommended to carry out processing (etching) cabbage seeds from pathogens that can persist on the outer shell. To do this, they must first be soaked in warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate at a temperature of 40-50 degrees for 20-30 minutes.

You can spend disinfectionusing the drug "Fitosporin" (according to the instructions).


For stimulation of growth processes and increasing the percentage of germination it is recommended to soak with a solution "Epina" (according to the instructions) or "Zircon" (according to the instructions). After that, the seeds must be immediately planted in the ground.

Better yet germinate cabbage seeds on cotton pads. In 2-4 days, the seeds will hatch, and they can be planted in the ground.

Important! If, when buying cabbage seeds, they are painted in different colors (it is more correct to call them coated, granulated or glazed), then this indicates that the manufacturer has already worried about them in advance and has carried out a full pre-sowing preparation. Therefore, no action is required with them. Planting should be done dry.

Video: soaking cabbage seeds

What soil to plant

Important! For planting, you can not take soil from the area where cruciferous crops (rutabagas, turnips, radishes, horseradish) grew, since they have common diseases.

Sowing cabbage seeds must be carried out in a light and nutritious substrate, which will enable the plants to fully develop. The best option would be to buy ready-made soil for cabbage seedlings, where the soil composition is completely balanced and has a neutral acidity level in the range of 6.5-7 pH.

You can also prepare the necessary soil for planting cabbage yourself by mixing the following components:

  • turf land - 1 part
  • sand - 1 part
  • 1 glass of ash per 10 liters of soil.

Important! You should not apply nitrogen fertilizers and humus to the soil, as this can lead to excessive growth of the aboveground part and further lodging of seedlings.

In addition, it is recommended to disinfect the substrate from pathogens of fungal diseases before planting cabbage. To do this, a few days before sowing, it is necessary to shed the soil with the working solution of the drug. "Fitosporin" (according to the instructions) or a rich pink infusion of potassium permanganate.

And then it is advisable to sift the substrate and loosen it thoroughly in order to increase its air and moisture permeability.

Planting containers

You can use wooden or plastic boxes and pallets to plant cabbage for seedlings, but there are also other containers that you should pay attention to. To understand their advantages and disadvantages, you should familiarize yourself with them in advance.

Important! The most important thing is that there are drainage holes at the bottom of the landing container.

  • Wooden or plastic containers. This type of container has been used for planting seeds for a very long time due to its ease of use. Wooden structures can be completely built independently, at no extra cost. They are suitable both for sowing and for picking seedlings in the future. The disadvantage of containers is that the root system can be damaged during transplantation. It is also impossible to get one plant without affecting the neighboring one. In addition, these structures are quite heavy.
  • Plastic cups. They are also very popular with gardeners due to their low cost and reusable use. In addition, sowing in such containers allows you to extract the plants without damaging the root, which reduces the stress during transplanting. But this type of container has a number of disadvantages. The cups do not have drainage holes, so they should be made on their own, and additional pallets are required to water the plants. In addition to all this, they do not have stability and need additional devices when transporting seedlings to their summer cottage.

100-200 ml cups will be enough.

  • Peat tablets. The best option for growing seedlings, allowing you to grow strong seedlings with a well-developed root system. For planting, you need to soak the tablets in water for 7 minutes until they swell completely. They are nutritious compressed peat, placed in a special shell, which, when planted in the ground, completely dissolves. This allows planting into the ground without damaging the root. The disadvantage is the high price and the need for frequent watering, since moisture from the substrate quickly evaporates. Additional equipment will be required for transportation.

By the way! Cabbage can be sown for seedlings and in banks, for more details on this method, see the following video:

What scheme to follow when landing

Planting should be carried out taking into account the fact that the plants will need free space in the future for full development. Therefore, crops should not be overly thickened.

Advice! It makes sense to sow thicker only in order to then leave the strongest shoots. Moreover, they do not need to be pulled out, but cut off with scissors.

If you are going to dive, then you need to place seeds in a common container at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other and with a row spacing of 3-4 cm.

And if you plant seeds in a common container at a distance of 5-10 cm in a checkerboard pattern, then the seedlings can be grown without picking.

Of course, it is ideal to sow immediately in separate containers, so as not to carry out a pick in the future, because cabbage does not really like it, especially cauliflower.

Important! The thickening of crops is the cause of weak and elongated cabbage seedlings, and can also cause the development of various diseases.

Video: preparing seeds and sowing cabbage for seedlings

Direct landing

When planting cabbage seeds for seedlings, you must consistently perform the steps. This will help prevent serious blunders that can negatively affect the plants in the future.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing cabbage seeds for seedlings:

  • Pour the prepared substrate into the planting containers (2/3).
  • Water it abundantly and wait until the water is completely absorbed and the soil settles.
  • Make rows 1 cm deep and spread out the seeds.
  • Sprinkle with earth on top.
  • Moisten the substrate with a spray bottle on top.
  • Cover with a transparent lid or foil to keep high humidity inside.
  • Put containers on the window and ensure the temperature of the content is up to + 18 ... + 22 degrees (for white cabbage less, for color more).

Video: a proven method of sowing cabbage for seedlings (white cabbage)

Note! There are no major differences in sowing and growing different types of cabbage, but there are some small nuances, especially for cauliflower (it is more thermophilic).

You might find it helpful to watch the following videos:

Video: especially growing and sowing Chinese cabbage for seedlings

Video: sowing and growing cauliflower seedlings - the subtleties of the process


Bell pepper is a rather capricious and thermophilic culture. The temperature in the room in which the box with seedlings is located should reach 22 - 25 degrees. For comparison: 18-20 degrees is enough for tomatoes or eggplants for germination. To create the required temperature, some gardeners advise covering the seed box with glass or film, which is removed as the seeds germinate.

The next factor affecting the germination of bell pepper seeds is the lack of drainage in a box or glass. To exclude rotting of seeds, it is necessary to fill in a small layer of drainage, for example, small pebbles, sand or crushed egg shells. In this case, the eggshell will provide the seedlings with calcium.

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Pepper seedlings without picking: cultivation features, reviews

Pepper belongs to the category of nightshade crops, which causes an increased sensitivity of the root systems of the plant and requires careful handling with all kinds of transplants and picking. It has been noticed that inaccurate root picking can delay the development of peppers by about two weeks, and also make them more vulnerable to disease.

That is why in the practice of experienced gardeners there are several proven secrets of growing pepper seedlings, in which picking is not needed, for example, sowing seeds in separate containers.


Pepper leaves turned blue: treatment and prevention

Correct, timely planting and proper care help prevent discoloration and further drying of the leaves. But if the trouble nevertheless happened, the bushes are sprayed with copper sulfate once. On a bucket of water heated by the sun, take 100 g of powder, a liter of the mixture is consumed for each plant. Processing helps to restore metabolism in tissues, to protect peppers from diseases. The tool is also used for preventive purposes. The next steps depend on the source of the problem.

Lack of nutrients

With a critical deficiency of phosphorus, the pepper is fed with double superphosphate - a glass of fertilizer is poured with 2 liters of hot water, the container is loosely covered with a lid, and left to infuse for 12 hours. The concentrated solution is brought to 10 liters, under each bush poured into a liter can of fertilizer. If there is a shortage of other elements, appropriate micronutrient fertilizers are selected, applied according to the instructions.

It can be difficult to disassemble what exactly the peppers are lacking, so the plant is initially planted in fertile soil and fertilized regularly throughout the season:

  • in the fall, they outline the beds, for each m² they bring in a bucket of humus or compost, 200 g of wood ash, tsp. potassium sulfate and st. l. superphosphate
  • the first time the seedlings are fed 2 weeks after planting in a permanent place, 500 ml of a mixture of 15 g of carbonite, 3 g of superphosphate (on a bucket of water) are poured under each bush
  • then fertilizers are applied 2-3 times a month, using complex mixtures based on calcium, nitrogen and phosphorus. As a supplement, the beds are periodically mulched with humus.

If the leaves on young pepper seedlings not only darkened, but also began to crumble, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of boric acid, 5 g of powder is taken in a bucket of water. With a lack of phosphorus, in addition to the root, you can feed on the leaf. 250 g of ammophoska is poured with 2.5 liters of hot water, the precipitate is waited for, the liquid is drained (the settled sulfur is left in the container). Add another 2 times 2.5 liters of hot water to the sediment, repeat the same operation again, then mix everything, bring the volume of liquid to 10 liters.

Temperature changes and microclimate in the greenhouse

To protect the pepper in the open ground (from a cold snap and a sharp change in weather), frames are erected for temporary shelter. In regions with difficult climates, structures are not removed throughout the growing season. The culture is planted only in well-lit, sunny areas, protected from cold winds and drafts. They also refrain from planting near water bodies and streams, in such places it is always cool.

When growing peppers in a greenhouse or greenhouse during the day, the temperature is kept at 23–28˚C, and in the evening it is lowered by about 3–5˚C. The temperature of the soil is also monitored, if it drops below 15 ° C or rises above 28 ° C, the peppers will lose the ability to absorb phosphorus from the soil, this will lead to the development of anthocyanosis and the gradual death of plants. There are several ways to increase the temperature indoors:

  • at night, a greenhouse or mini-greenhouse is covered with another layer of film (at a distance of up to 5 cm from the main covering)
  • to increase the temperature of the soil, cover it with a 1–2 cm layer of mulch (straw, dry or freshly cut grass, sawdust is also suitable, but only well rotted)
  • when the weather is too hot, they open all the doors and vents in the greenhouse, leave it so overnight, while trying to prevent drafts.

The temperature in the room is raised gradually and very carefully, especially if the nights are cold and the weather is hot during the day. With a sharp change in temperature, burns may appear on the leaves. Greenhouses are ventilated mainly in the morning and in the evening. It is advisable to cover the peppers in the open field immediately after planting (for 2-3 days) or on especially cold nights. In regions with a cool climate, frames for temporary shelter are removed only after the entire harvest has been collected.

Preventive actions

Compliance with agricultural techniques is the basis for the prevention of darkening of pepper leaves. It is recommended to grow the culture in a light type of soil, the best option would be sandy loam. To structure heavy soil, sand is added during autumn digging. Seedlings are planted in open ground when stable warm weather is established, the last return frosts have passed, in the greenhouse - 1 or 2 weeks earlier. Seeds and seedling soil are disinfected. Care features:

  1. Pepper is watered early in the morning or in the evening, under the root and only with warm water. The beds are moistened regularly, but in moderation, they make sure that the soil does not dry out, but also does not allow waterlogging. After each watering, the soil is loosened.
  2. Peppers are fertilized throughout the growing season, especially feeding is important 2 weeks after planting, before the start of mass flowering and immediately after it.
  3. In the greenhouse, the microclimate (temperature, humidity) is constantly monitored, the room is ventilated daily.
  4. Bushes are regularly examined for symptoms of disease and insect damage.
  5. Several times over the summer, preventive spraying is carried out against diseases and pests. Use biologics or folk remedies.

Peppers do not tolerate shading and thickening well, planting plants according to the scheme recommended for a particular variety. Saving space to increase yields will only do harm. Weeds are capable of shading bushes, displacing pepper roots, they are regularly weeded or pulled out, preventing them from growing. There will be no weeds if you close the beds with mulch and periodically change it to fresh.

Finally, we will tell you what else can be done if the pepper leaves turn purple - spray the bushes with a mixture of 10 drops of brilliant green in a bucket of water, the solution will not only restore the color of the leaves, but also increase the immunity of plants. Any change in the color of the foliage of the pepper cannot be ignored; in some cases, such a sign indicates that processes have begun in the tissues of the plant leading to the gradual death of the bushes. Only attention and a properly drawn up care plan will help you avoid trouble.


Watch the video: Pepper Leaf Problems?


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