Rules for the selection and planting of seedlings

Rules for the selection and planting of seedlings

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

And the garden will bloom in spring ...

These acclimatized seedlings are grown by the nurseries of research and fruit growing farms located in the Leningrad Region. If you bought such a seedling, the main thing is to take it whole to your garden and plant it correctly.

When transporting, the most important thing is to preserve the roots of the seedling without drying them out. To do this, it is best to wrap them in a wet rag or paper and place them in a plastic bag. If the transportation does not take long, you can simply pack the roots in a plastic bag.

You can save the seedlings before planting for a long time by dipping its roots in liquid clay, and then wrapping it in a rag. Having dried a little, the clay will protect the roots from drying out.

You can dig them in, laying them almost entirely, obliquely, into the groove with the tops to the north. This is usually done to preserve seedlings during winter storage, if you did not have time to plant them in the fall.

For the best preservation of seedlings in the winter, a high and dry place is chosen on the site so that the water does not stagnate there either in autumn or in spring. For digging, a trench is prepared, placing the seedlings in it so that the roots are deeper than the aboveground part. The root part is sprinkled with sand and moistened with water.

After the first frosts hit, sprinkle with earth the boles and skeletal branches of the seedlings. As a result, a small earthen ridge is formed above the ditch, from one edge of which the ends of the branches peep out. From mice and other rodents, the branches are covered from above with spruce branches, and after the snow falls, if the winter is not very snowy, they throw more snow on top for warming.

In our strip, fruit trees are planted no later than the first decade of October, since by the end of the month the soil temperature drops below the temperature of root growth, and the seedlings simply do not have time to take root. In addition, after planting, the plant needs at least one to three weeks to recover from transportation and transplanting. Therefore, seedlings bought in early October, it is better to dig in and leave until spring.

In order not to be mistaken with the choice of a seedling, you should know: the grafting site is located just above the root collar of the varietal tree. If you know this, then you won't get a wild one.

It is also important to remember that a plant with a thick, light-colored trunk on one side, which is given to you for two years, was actually brought from the south, and most likely it will not take root here. Therefore, I will not tire of repeating: it is better to go once to our nursery than to lose money and several years of my work.


In order to properly plant a seedling, you first need to prepare the ground. If it has a too acidic reaction (pH 4.5-5.0), it is neutralized - lime flour is added in an amount of 1-1.5 kg per 1 m2, while digging it is thoroughly mixed with the soil. Old cement or chalk can be used instead of lime.

Since the soil is usually limed in autumn, the last two options are preferable, because the introduction of lime is incompatible with the introduction of superphosphate, which is also better to bring under the autumn digging.

If the top layer of the soil is poor in humus, and the subsoil is heavy - it consists of clay or podzol, then it is useful to dig it with two bayonets of a garden shovel (about 50 cm) and enrich the entire treated layer with fertilizers.

This is done this way - the fertile top layer is removed on a shovel bayonet and folded in an even row. Next, the bottom layer is removed to make an even ditch, two shovel bayonets deep. Further, along the entire length of the ditch, the top layer is removed, and it is thrown into the ditch, the bottom layer is laid on top. Thus, the entire required area is dug up. Since the lower layer of the subsoil is usually poor in fertilizers, then all the dug soil must be thoroughly fertilized, using not only mineral, but also organic fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers are applied at least 10 kg per 1 m2, adding together with them 100 g of superphosphate and 20-30 g of potash fertilizers.

More often, due to the economy of humus or compost, the soil is improved only in the planting pits. In principle, this is an acceptable solution, but if the soil on the entire site is poor, it is better to try and improve it entirely, at least gradually, from year to year.

Planting holes are prepared in advance and filled with an enriched soil mixture so that it has time to settle before planting.

Saplings are planted in different ways - depending on the height of the groundwater in your area. Where the waters do not rise above 2-3 meters, holes are dug in the usual way, and the seedlings are planted so that the root collar is slightly above ground level. When the earth finally settles, the root collar will just be at the level of the soil. Do not confuse root collar with grafting!

In a swampy area, seedlings are planted on hills, with the obligatory bedding of broken bricks or coarse gravel under the soil (see fig.).

Planting a seedling on a site with a groundwater level:
A - deeper than 2 m;
B - from 1.5 to 2 m;
B - from 1 to 1.5 m.

On soils with a groundwater level from 1, 5 to 2 m from the surface, fruit trees are planted without a planting pit. At the planting site, the soil is dug up onto two bayonets of a shovel with the introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers and a small hole is made to fit the root system of the seedlings

For apple and pear grafted on vigorous rootstocks, holes are usually dug rather large: on poor heavy soil - 1 to 2 m wide, 0.6-0.8 m deep, or even deeper, when it is required to remove a clay layer that does not allow water and low permeability to roots. A layer of broken brick, crushed stone, crumpled cans, rusty iron is poured on the bottom of the pits - this creates drainage 8-10 cm thick.A soil enriched with manure, plant residues, mineral salts is placed on it - up to 15-20 cm.

Then they fill it with good humus soil with the addition of peat compost, ash, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In total, up to 10 buckets of well-rotted manure are brought under a tall apple or pear tree (it can be replaced with 5-7 buckets of good compost or 5-7 buckets of rich humus) along with 8-10 buckets of peat mixed with coarse sand; up to a kilogram of superphosphate and a bucket of ash. Make sure that when planting the roots of the seedling do not come into contact with mineral fertilizers.

Cherries and plums are planted in pits 0.8 m in diameter and 0.4 m deep. For both of these crops, good soil drainage and the absence of stagnant melt water at their planting sites are very important. Under plums, cherries, cherries, up to 20 kg of manure, 4-5 buckets of humus or compost, 300-400 g of superphosphate and ash are applied.

The same amount of fertilizers is embedded in pits for chokeberry (chokeberry), sea buckthorn, irgu, hawthorn.

On good soil, there is no need to make such extensive holes, nor do they make them for small trees, for example, grafted on semi-dwarf rootstocks. But the rest of the landing pattern itself always remains the same.

Sand is added to heavy, clayey soil - several buckets per pit, with increased acidity, lime flour, chalk or old cement are added.

The top layer of soil, more cultured and fertile, taken out of the pit, is laid separately, and then the pit is filled with it with the addition of fertilizers. The subsoil, which is comparatively less rich in nutrients, is folded separately. This part of the soil is then placed on top of the pit.

The subsoil layer can also be cultivated by introducing organic fertilizers and leavening agents such as sand or peat into it, but more often it is used for arranging sites, blind areas or paths.

The top layer of the soil, in which the roots of the seedlings will be at first, is enriched mainly with humus, and a minimum amount of minerals, in addition to wood ash, is usually added so as not to burn the roots and worsen the survival rate of the seedling.

There is no need to dig deep holes under the sea buckthorn - it is enough to dig a hole to the depth of the bayonet of a garden shovel, since its roots grow horizontally and do not go deeper. Unlike other fruit trees, the roots of sea buckthorn appear higher and higher on the trunk, so every year you have to pour 3-4 cm of sand, light earth, humus under it, and use mineral and organic fertilizers to a minimum. And the pits for it are filled with a light soil mixture - humus and peat with sand.

On sandy loam soils and light loams, in addition to other fertilizers for all crops, it is useful to add more well-decomposed peat and, in addition to macronutrients, it is imperative to add microelements.

To reduce the permeability of sandy soils, manure-earth composts with the addition of loam or clay are placed on the bottom of the pit.

If the pit was filled long before planting, for example, in the fall, and is to be planted in the spring, then the soil in it will partially settle by that time. Before planting, add some more good soil on top and knead it with your feet so that it eventually rises 5-7 cm above the surface of the soil.

This is done so that a hole does not form around the tree, in which water will stagnate in spring and autumn. The bark on the root collar and trunk suffers from excessive dampness, which can be the reason for a slow growing season.

When an apple tree or a pear has to be planted immediately or soon after filling a large hole, a mound of at least 10-15 cm is made above the surface level. This is how much the soil freshly poured into the hole settles in two years. If this condition is not taken into account, after a while the trees will find themselves in deep holes, which does not in the best way affect their development and fruiting.

If the plot allocated for planting fruit trees is located in a place where groundwater is very close to the surface of the earth (1-1.5 m), then in such gardens it is necessary to "raise" the planting and plant the plants on artificially poured hills, as we have already talked about, or on the ridges - quite high and large in area.

So, for example, mounds in highly swampy areas are made up to 3-3.5 m in diameter and up to 1 m in height, and in some cases even higher. The hole is dug shallower or not at all, pouring drainage directly onto the soil surface. The thickness of the drainage in this case should not be less than 30-40 centimeters.

A stake is driven into the center of the mound, a seedling is loosely tied to it in two places with a "eight". Its roots are placed on the soil in such a way that the root collar is slightly higher than the surface of the future mound. The roots are gently straightened. Damaged, dry, diseased ends are cut off with pruning shears, and only after that the roots are sprinkled with soil. At a distance of half a meter from the stem, a small roller is made, forming a hole for irrigation.

In the fall, after planting and securing the seedling, the tops of the shoots are removed from it - by about a quarter or a third. This reduces evaporation of the bark while the tree has not yet taken root and the roots are still weak.

In varieties with a compressed or columnar crown, an outer bud is left on each shoot with the upper bud - its lateral growth will contribute to the expansion of the crown, and in varieties with a spreading crown, an internal one is left: it will grow upward, and the crown will form denser, slimmer.

To obtain stlanes, the ground is prepared just as thoroughly, but usually one-year olds are planted - it is easier to create a crown of the desired shape from them.

Planting is carried out in autumn from early September to mid-October, as well as in spring, in April, as soon as it becomes possible to cultivate the land, and the buds have not yet hatched. At the same time, vaccinations and re-grafting are carried out with interesting or rare varieties.

If you have planted the seedling correctly and provided it with proper care, then in 2-3 years you will remove and try your first harvest. Good luck to you!

A. Kremneva, agronomist

It is also important to form a watering circle. To do this, make a mound in the form of a roller 5-7 cm around the entire circumference. The surface of the circle must be mulched with wet compost, as well as rotted manure or straw.

The planted tree should be watered abundantly and tied to a reinforced peg.

Don't forget about watering. A planted tree needs a lot of water

Rules for planting rose seedlings in the ground

Roses are quite unpretentious in terms of soil selection. Most varieties thrive in a mixture of sand, compost and peat. The main rule is that the soil must be breathable so that the roots do not rot due to excess moisture in it.

For rose bushes, they choose sunny or semi-shady places, but not near large trees or bushes. The area should be well ventilated, as the accumulation of moisture droplets from dew or rain on the leaves of the plant can lead to their rotting and will significantly shorten the period of abundant flowering.

Pros of growing bonsai for the garden

By giving preference to dwarf trees for the garden, the owner of the personal plot can count on:

  • High survival rate of seedlings
  • Entry into fruiting in the 2-3rd year
  • Resistance of crops to severe frosts
  • Neat appearance and easy harvesting
  • Abundant early fruiting
  • Large fruits with an increased concentration of nutrients
  • The ability to grow a variety of varieties in a small area.

The distance between grape seedlings when planting

Gardeners planning to grow grapes on their site should know the basic rules for caring for them. The distance between the bushes when planting seedlings should be such that any grape varieties fully grow and develop. If you do not respect the distance between the grapes when planting, then such bushes can be affected by pests, in addition, the fruits do not develop sufficiently in tight passages. First of all, after making a decision to grow grapes, you need to think about and allocate an area for planting.

When growing several bushes or different varieties, the area of ​​the site should not be less than 5-10 square meters. m, while the distance between the bushes must be strictly observed.

To decide at what distance to plant grapes, you need to count the number of cuttings and determine the planting site. Some varieties are grown specifically for beauty and grafted onto walls of fences, houses and arches, while others are grown for delicious wine and bulk fruit. Before planting seedlings on the site, you need to prepare the soil and cuttings.

When a place was selected for planting seedlings, it is important to decide on a scheme for planting them. It is recommended to plant trees according to four schemes, which have their own peculiarities of the arrangement of plants, which simplify the process of caring for the seedlings and get a bountiful harvest.

Quadratic scheme

The most common planting scheme is quadratic: it allows you to create comfortable conditions for caring for the garden. According to this scheme, trees are planted in even rows. The distance between trees depends on their species and varieties.

The quadratic planting scheme is suitable for trees that are not demanding on lighting, they normally tolerate partial shade created by adjacent rows. Usually, apple trees of different varieties are planted in this way, some varieties of pears.

Triangular scheme

Planting trees in a triangular pattern is characterized by a denser arrangement of plants with a large crown. According to the triangular scheme, all trees will be even-standing, which will allow to plant 15% more plants than according to the quadratic scheme.

To find out the optimal distance between plants, you must follow the rule of doubling the maximum width of the crown of an adult tree.For example, if the crown width is 4 m, then there must be a distance of at least 8 m between the plants on all sides. Thanks to the triangular planting pattern, plants can receive the maximum amount of light. Cherry, apple, pear, plum, apricot, peach are suitable for planting with this scheme.

Horizontal layout

Watch the video: How to Plant Hydrangeas in Containers