So that it doesn't get ripe and sick: work in grapes in August

 So that it doesn't get ripe and sick: work in grapes in August

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In August, the berries on the grapes ripen, and the vines themselves, as well as the buds of the next year. The harvest of not only the current year, but also the future depends on the quality of care this month. There are activities that are required during this period, but something is not worth doing.


Removal by pruning the tops of vines with young and still small leaves is called chasing. The bush spends strength on the development of these leaves, to the detriment of the filling and coloring of berries, the ripening of the bark and buds. By minting, we correct this situation, exclude the consumption of vital juices for unnecessary greens. It is necessary to cut off the upper part of the vine, 30–40 cm long, to the first well-developed, already hardened leaf.

But it will be a mistake to carry out the chasing if the crown (hook) at the top of the shoot has not yet straightened out. This means that the vegetation of the shoot continues. The bush will respond to its shortening by the violent growth of the stepsons, or even worse - the buds of the next year will wake up. Therefore, it is often necessary to cut vines not all in a row, but selectively only those that have stopped growing. This is evidenced by a straightened crown.

The crocheted top of the shoot speaks of its growth, it is too early to be minted

Removing stepchildren

If stepchildren still appear and grow on your vines, remove them or shorten them to two leaves. It is believed: if you leave the leaves on the stepchildren, then this will enhance photosynthesis, and therefore the nutrition of the bush, the grapes will be larger.

Lateral shoots (stepchildren) pinch over the second sheet

Emergency rationing of the harvest

The harvest is rationed much earlier - in June, when the ovaries are just beginning to grow. Leave one bunch on the shoots. In varieties with dense clusters, the ovaries are thinned out: they are plucked or cut off in paths along the entire length of the cluster.

Video: rationing grapes, thinning bunches

If you did not remove the extra berries and bunches on time, then in August you will reap the fruits of your mistakes or laziness. With an excess of brushes on the vine, the berries remain small, do not have time to grow and ripen before the cold weather. And in dense clusters, pouring grapes crush each other, burst, and even in the absence of rain, the brush begins to rot from the inside.

In August, you can still try to save the harvest. Remove the extra brushes, and spread the too dense ones, raising and spreading the wings of the bunch. Reveal rotten ones and remove from the vine. Otherwise, they will become a favorable environment for the development of all kinds of pathogenic fungi.

Fungus treatment

During the ripening of the crop, it is no longer possible to treat with fungicides. The most effective way during this period is to manually harvest all damaged berries and leaves. It is also recommended to remove from the grapes all the young, still tender and juicy leaves, it is on them that fungi settle, and the old and rough ones are too tough for them.

After cleaning all foci of infection, treat the bushes with a biological product, for example, Fitosporin, or a solution of potassium permanganate. There are tips to spray with a solution of soda, iodine, hydrogen peroxide, etc. But these are ineffective and, according to many winegrowers, even useless means. It is better to prevent diseases and carry out preventive spraying with a fungicide (Topaz, HOM, Horus, etc.) a month before harvesting.

Whatever culture I get sick, first of all I remove the affected areas from the bushes (leaves, berries, tops of the shoots), it is there that the accumulation of fungi is located, which will eventually settle throughout the plant. And then, if there is still a month before harvesting, then I spray it with a fungicide, and if not, then I follow and remove the next diseased leaves. But after the first mass harvest there are few of them. It happens that after harvesting, you don't even need to spray: the disease stops, the bush is clean and healthy, only a little plucked.

Slug protection

Sometimes, due to oversight or other reasons, the bunches fall on the ground, and here they become tasty prey for slugs. If this happens to you, pick up the grapes from the ground, inspect the berries, remove the damaged ones and catch all the pests. Tie brushes or dry grass under them, and sprinkle with slug preparations around. The most effective are those that contain metaldehyde.

Removing leaves in the area of ​​bunches

The bunches are poured due to the leaves growing above the vine, and the lower ones by August turn into useless parasites. As a result of their removal, the strength and juices will not be wasted. In addition, the bottom of the bush and berries will be better ventilated, illuminated and warmed by the sun. But if it's hot, the vineyard is under the scorching sun from morning to evening, then the berries can bake and get burned. In this case, it is necessary to leave the leaves shading the bunches.

It is recommended to arrange the rows of grapes from north to south. Then the sun will illuminate one side of the bushes in the morning, and the other in the afternoon.

The lower leaves must be torn off: they take away nutrients, but do not bring benefits

Termination of watering

In August, fruiting grapes are not watered, on the contrary, they are protected from rain by installing visors or organizing the outflow of water from the roots. You can cover the ground with a film or lay sheets of slate with a slope from the bush. Excess moisture in August leads to cracking of the berries, and the plant itself begins to actively throw out green shoots to the detriment of the ripening of the vine.

By maturing vine growers understand lignification of shoots, covering their surface and buds with brown bark. A green, immature vine will not survive the winter. Lignification occurs from the bottom up. The more buds the vine ripens, the richer the harvest will be and the easier the formation will be, there will be a choice: which buds and shoots from them to leave, which ones to remove.

How to feed ripening grapes

Top dressing on the leaf and under the root with potash or phosphorus-potassium fertilizer is welcome. Potassium sulfate, potassium sulfate, potassium monophosphate are suitable. Potassium and phosphorus accelerate ripening and increase the sugar content of the berries. During ripening, it is impossible to fertilize with nitrogen (urea, ammonium nitrate, infusions of mullein, grass, droppings, etc.). Nitrogen fertilizers and organic matter provoke the growth of the green part of the plant - leaves and shoots, and the ripening of berries and vines is suspended.

Video: caring for grapes in August

Timely harvest, protection from wasps and birds

In August, the harvest is already ripe for early and medium varieties. Collect it on time. Do not overdo the ready-made bunches on the bushes, this slows down the formation of bark on the vines. In addition, overripe berries can crumble, crack, rot in damp weather, and turn into raisins in hot weather. The ripening berries attract wasps and birds. The most effective and inexpensive way to protect crops from winged fish is a fine mesh netting. You can cover the bushes completely or make bags for each bunch.

These bags can be bought or sewn by yourself.

Propagation of grapes in August by cuttings and layering

At the same time, you can multiply your own or your favorite neighbor's grapes. Popular methods in August:

  • Green cuttings. The very stepsons who shortened to two sheets are suitable. By August, their stems are already hard, and the leaves are fully grown. Break out stepchildren and root in moist and loose soil mixture. But you can cut cuttings from unnecessary shoots (barren vines, overgrowths).
  • Layers. Mature bushes of grapes in summer give growth from the base of the bush. If you need to propagate a variety, then leave such a shoot, and root it in August. To do this, the shoot is cleaned of leaves, leaving them only at the top, laid in a groove and covered with moist and loose soil. It is better to leave the separation from the mother bush until next year.

Video: a very simple way to root cuttings in the summer

Grapes are not grafted in August. The best periods for this type of breeding are spring and autumn. The summer green-to-green vaccination is carried out before the beginning of August.

At the time when the grapes ripen, it seems that you can finally rest and wait for the sweet harvest deserved by honest labor. But the vines need our care until the very frost. It's too early to give up in August. And the stimulus to labor exploits will be the growing in size and staining grapes.

Watch the video: Grape Growing Problem - Grape Berry Moth


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