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We cover chrysanthemums for the winter

 We cover chrysanthemums for the winter


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Chrysanthemums are one of the most popular flowers in our gardens. There are many types of sun flower, differing in the height and shape of the bush, size, color and shape of the flower, the timing of flowering and the ability to withstand the harsh winter. However, almost every species needs help to get through the winter.

How and where chrysanthemums winter

Not all plants from the genus of chrysanthemums are able to overwinter outdoors. It is practically impossible to preserve globular and large-flowered varieties in the open field, except in the southern regions. If your strain is not frost-hardy or the region has very harsh winters, you shouldn't risk it. You need to carefully dig out the bush, cut it off, water it and put it together with a lump of earth in the cellar, on the veranda, that is, where it will be cool in winter, no more than 5 degrees Celsius.

Video: storing chrysanthemums in the winter in a cellar

Another option for preserving flowers is to transfer them to a greenhouse.

Video: we save chrysanthemums in the greenhouse in winter

Well, if your chrysanthemum will winter in the open field, then it is worth preparing for cold days in advance. Already in September-October, it is necessary to feed the plants with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which will help the flowers to successfully overwinter.

I use a potassium-phosphorus fertilizer "Autumn", which does not contain nitrogen. I scatter it on the ground at the rate of 30-50 g per square meter. I regularly water chrysanthemums, examine the bushes for diseases and pests.

In late October - early November (after flowering or with the onset of cold weather), we cut the bushes, leaving no more than 10-15 cm from the ground level. After watering, we loosen the soil, level it, leave no drops so that water does not accumulate in the pits and does not cause root rot or fungal diseases. When the temperature is stable below 0, it's time to shelter the bushes from frost. It is important here to provide the plants with the correct shelter. Air access is required, low humidity. You can cover with dry leaves, spruce legs or covering material.

Hiding chrysanthemums under spunbond is a common method

I use twigs, small bows and 42g / m2 white spunbond2... If the winter is cold, you can use a denser material. I stick two arms crosswise into the ground, cover them with spunbond from above and fix the edges with bricks and branches. If the variety is frost-resistant, you can get by with cut branches of the chrysanthemum for its own shelter.

Video: pruning and sheltering chrysanthemums

If the winter in your area is snowy, then you have nothing to worry about. You can leave the bushes for the winter as they are.

A thick layer of snow shelters chrysanthemums from frost

Chrysanthemums overwinter quite well in the open field. However, if you cover them incorrectly, they can freeze or snuff out. The main thing is to properly preserve the queen cells until spring, and there you can get a lot of new shoots and plant a sun flower.


How to prepare clematis for winter

All varietal clematis must be covered for the winter. This is due to their poor frost resistance. But before sheltering, you need to prune these flowering shrubs.

Pruning clematis

All clematis are conventionally divided into three groups:

1. Plants on which flowers develop on last year's shoots

2. Plants on which the main flowering occurs on the shoots of the current year

3. Flowers are formed on all shoots without exception.

Depending on the belonging of clematis to a particular group, they are trimmed.

Plants of the first group are grown without pruning, and only diseased and very dense bushes are removed in the fall. Clematis of the second group are cut off almost completely to the base in autumn, or two lower nodes are left. Flowers of the third group require a more detailed approach to this process. Even in the summer, after the end of flowering, part of the shoots of the last year that bloomed is removed. And already immediately in the fall, before the shelter, the shoots of the current year are shortened by 1/3. Such pruning allows the plants to winter well and forms the bushes correctly.

How to cover clematis for the winter

After proper pruning, they begin to shelter the plants for the winter. To do this, with the onset of constant frosts in non-rainy weather, the plants are sprinkled with earth in a layer of up to 20 cm. Then the long clematis are carefully bent down and laid on the ground on spruce branches, and sprinkled on top with leaves, sand or peat. They again cover it on top with spruce branches. It protects flowers from various rodents. Clematis, which are pruned almost to the ground, also require the necessary care. They can be covered with buckets or boxes without a bottom, covered with dry leaves on top and covered with spruce branches.

You can also cover clematis for the winter using a frame. It is made of wire and covered with a film or roofing felt. You should not cover the clematis too tightly - this can lead to overheating of the plant.

In the spring, with the onset of sunny days, the shelter is gradually removed. And with the establishment of positive temperatures, they are completely removed. At first, the clematis buds are covered from the effects of the bright spring sun. At this point, the soil is loosened and disinfected with milk of lime (200 g of lime per bucket of water).

These are the activities that need to be carried out with clematis in order to prepare them for winter.


Do I need to cover the garden hydrangea for the winter

It depends on the type and variety of shrubs. Be sure to carefully cover the hydrangeas that bloom on last year's shoots, since flower buds are laid at the top of the shoot. And the first autumn frosts can damage them. Then bloom will not come next season.

When cold weather comes, it is important to protect the hydrangea flower buds located at the top of the shoot

Among the hydrangeas grown in the middle lane, only two species need compulsory shelter - large-leaved hydrangea, or garden hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), and Sargent's hydrangea (Hydrangea sargentiana). But reality shows that in regions with an unstable climate, protection for the winter is also necessary, for example, for hydrangea arborescens. In addition, in the first two years after planting, hydrangeas of any kind in winter need to be additionally protected from frost.

Large-leaved hydrangea varieties such as Endless Summer, Forever and Ever, You and Me, can bloom on shoots of both the past and the current year. But in order to achieve abundant flowering, the bush must be prepared for winter more carefully.

If you are satisfied that your hydrangea will bloom only once in late summer - early fall, its winter shelter can be simplified. In late autumn, when night frosts become daily, cut the bush so that 3-5 buds remain on each shoot, and cover it with dry foliage or spruce branches.


Water-charging chrysanthemums in autumn

Do not forget that perennials can freeze in winter not only due to low air temperatures, but also due to lack of moisture, since dehydrated crops cannot fully withstand adverse weather conditions.

Of course, chrysanthemum during autumn flowering needs regular watering, the volume and frequency of which you must regulate yourself depending on the weather conditions, so that the flowers do not dry out and the roots do not rot in the cold soil. After watering, the soil should be loosened to prevent excessive evaporation of moisture and to enrich the soil with oxygen. At the same time, destroy the remains of weeds.

Before the onset of cold weather, it is worth carrying out the final water-charging watering of chrysanthemums at the rate of at least 5 liters of water for each bush. Then the plants will be able to gradually absorb water from the soil during the winter. A layer of mulch, which you will use to insulate the roots later, will help keep moisture in the soil until spring.


Shelter of chrysanthemums - we grow in the open field

It is important to take into account all the details before hiding chrysanthemums for the winter, which will help you with the video and photos in this article. If your flowers will endure the winter outdoors, then you will need to huddle. The soil should protect the plant from direct contact with the cold on all sides. It is undesirable for water to accumulate near the plants during the winter months - therefore, there should not be any pits nearby. Stagnant water can damage plants, lead to root rot and even death of the chrysanthemum.

If your region is covered with snow in winter, then you can be sure that your flowers will winter without damage. Indeed, under a good layer of snow, most varieties, both chrysanthemums and other flowers, can safely survive even the most severe frosts. You should be concerned if your area has sufficiently low temperatures during the winter months, which are accompanied by a wind without snow.

However, not only cold winters without snow are enemies of chrysanthemums, but also wet and too warm ones. Chrysanthemums can be severely damaged by both thaws and strong temperature changes. Such changes are destructive, as they can cause flowers to scent. If your variety does not like severe frosts, and winter every year with or without snow, then you need to cover the flower taking into account the changing weather conditions. In such cases, you already need to think about the means at hand.

To shelter chrysanthemums, you need bricks that are placed on the "edge" on both sides of the bush. Then wide boards, old slate, or even an unnecessary piece of iron can be installed on top for additional protection and snow retention. You can close it with chrysanthemums and plywood, but so that it does not fly off constantly, press it down with something heavy.

What does such protection give? It prevents moisture and precipitation from entering, and also creates a kind of ventilated space for flowers that grow outside. Also, chrysanthemum growing outdoors in the most severe frosts can be additionally covered with spruce branches. They will create the missing warmth and protect from the wind. If you have nowhere to take spruce branches, then you can use dry branches and leaves.

If you are too lazy to collect one or the other, you can purchase a covering material in the store, which must be ventilated and not too dense. You should not cover chrysanthemums with heavy material - they can start to flirt and then die. And during the period of melting snow or constant thaw, it is not recommended to cover the roots of the chrysanthemum with sawdust or peat - then your flowers are guaranteed to dry out.


How to protect chrysanthemum from diseases and pests

It is known that almost all pathogens that affect a flower can tolerate even a very cold winter and are activated again in warm weather. Therefore, in the fall, it is imperative to carry out sanitary cleaning of the bushes, followed by their processing with special means.

For the prevention and control of fungal infections, the following drugs are suitable:

  • bordeaux liquid
  • copper soap emulsion
  • colloidal sulfur.

Spraying is carried out after the plant has been cleared of dry, diseased and damaged shoots. Moreover, not only bushes with obvious signs of diseases are subject to processing, but also absolutely healthy in appearance.

If we talk about pests, then all varieties can be damaged by aphids, meadow bugs, nematodes. The bushes affected by the latter will have to be dug up and destroyed. At the same time, the soil and surrounding plants are treated with "Phosphamide". To combat insects, spraying with soapy water or insecticidal preparations is suitable.

In general, if chrysanthemum care is carried out correctly, plants rarely get sick.

When growing the queen of autumn, it is advisable to follow the following rules:

  • Planting plants should be at such a distance that the chrysanthemum receives enough air and light.
  • When working with plants, garden tools should be disinfected.
  • Each chrysanthemum should be inspected periodically. If diseases are detected, action should be taken immediately.


Shelter is not a substitute for winter preparation

The preparation of vulnerable species of garden plants for a long and most likely unstable winter is a systemic process that includes not only a direct protective shelter. After all, improper care and violation of the schedule of autumn procedures can destroy even plants under the correct air-dry shelter.

Measures that are critical to the effectiveness of horticultural shelter include:

  • stopping top dressing by the end of August and meeting the deadlines for autumn dressing for the lawn and plants that need them
  • timely water-charging irrigation for shrubs and trees
  • meeting the deadlines for autumn pruning
  • thorough sanitary cleaning of plants, including the removal of dry leaves, plant debris from the soil and cleaning of clumps
  • timely hilling and mulching, especially for perennials prone to bare roots
  • maintaining water and air permeability of the soil
  • binding of crowns and curtains to protect against breaking branches from snow
  • removing vines from supports
  • preventive measures to combat diseases and pests.

With the onset of snowfalls, the distribution, pouring and trampling of snow must be added to the measures already taken to protect plants. And continue to protect against rodents that are lured by the warmth under the plant shelter.


Watch the video: Tour our Chrysanthemum Festival with Display Designer Jim Sutton