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Characteristics and description of the tomato variety Eagle's beak

Characteristics and description of the tomato variety Eagle's beak


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For every gardener, when choosing a tomato variety, important criteria are ease of care, yield, taste and presentation. Tomato variety Eagle's beak meets all these wishes.

Characteristics and description of the tomato Eagle's beak

This variety was bred by the Siberian breeder Dederko with a group of co-authors in 2005. According to the characteristics, this is a variety middle ripening period, intended for growing in greenhouses and open beds.

The ripening period of a tomato is from 105 to 115 days from the date of sowing. The variety is hybrid, tall. The height of the bush, according to the description, is 150-170 centimeters.

Fruits are large in size, oblong with an elongated curved tip, reminiscent of an eagle's beak. The color of the fruit is crimson. Average weight of each tomato 350-800 grams... The pulp is firm, the taste is slightly sweet.

These tomatoes are suitable for fresh consumption and canning.

Advantages and disadvantages

This variety has the following advantages:

  • excellent taste;
  • good presentation;
  • high degree of disease resistance;
  • long shelf life;
  • high yield;
  • good transportability.

The disadvantages include:

  • mandatory formation of a bush;
  • exactingness to the soil;
  • the frequency of fertilizing and the abundance of watering.

Seed preparation

The key to a good harvest is properly grown seedlings. Seedlings grown from seeds will be less capricious to environmental changes.

Seeds before planting are recommended check for germination... Immerse the seeds in a glass of warm water for 15 minutes. The seeds that have floated to the surface are thrown away, and the seeds that have settled to the bottom are dried and treated with a growth stimulant.

Before planting in the ground, the seeds are disinfected with a strong manganese solution. This is done to prevent diseases.

To accelerate germination and improve the survival rate of seedlings, seeds are recommended germinate... For this, the seeds are wrapped in a dampened cloth and left in a well-lit room for two days. After two days, the seeds are ready for planting.

Planting seeds and caring for seedlings

Seeds are planted after March 15 into oblong wooden boxes. Prepare the soil before planting seeds. To do this, it is necessary to mix in equal parts peat, garden soil and river sand. To normalize acidity, ash should be added to the soil. The prepared soil must be watered with a solution of potassium permanganate or warm well.

We fall asleep in the prepared soil in the boxes, make holes 1 cm deep and plant the seeds, 2 cm apart. Sprinkle the wells with a thin layer of soil. Cover the boxes with seeds with polyethylene and take them out into a dark room. The room temperature should be +23 +25 degrees.

After the sprouts appear, the polyethylene must be removed and the boxes with the seedlings must be moved to a room with bright lighting. Watering is necessary with settled water at room temperature. Use a spray bottle for watering.

When two leaves appear on the seedlings, it is necessary plant in separate pots. Seedlings should be transplanted with a clod of earth from the previous place of growth. This must be done carefully, since the roots of the seedlings are still very tender.

The transplant should be carried out with gloves so as not to touch the seedlings with your hands, since the temperature of the hands is much higher than the temperature of the seedlings. As a result of contact, the seedlings are stressed from overheating. Move the pots with transplanted seedlings to a dark room. After rooting, the pots can be returned to the windowsill.

Top dressing is recommended thrice in the process of growing seedlings. A solution of chicken manure diluted in the following proportion is well suited for this:

  • water - 15 liters;
  • chicken droppings - 1 liter.

Infuse this solution for 7 days, then water the seedlings. The first feeding is carried out immediately after transplant seedlings. The second - after 14 days after the first feeding. The third feeding is performed before transplant seedlings to a permanent place of growth.

Hardening of seedlings

The hardening procedure is performed in order to increase the immunity of seedlings. This procedure will help the seedlings adapt easily to natural conditions.

7 days before disembarkation temperature in the room follows lower and stop watering... Within three days, open a window in the room, or take out the seedlings outside for 2-3 hours. After three days, the seedlings can be taken outside for the whole day, and before planting, they can be left overnight in the fresh air for two days.

Landing on the beds

In the last days of May, seedlings aged two months can be planted in open beds. Soil temperature should be 15 degrees... The soil in the beds should be well loosened.

For planting seedlings, it is necessary to dig holes and pour fertilizers into them:

  • potash - 1 tablespoon;
  • phosphoric - 1 tablespoon.

For 1 sq. plant a meter no more than three seedlings... Water should be abundant once a week. Fertilizers should be alternated between organic and mineral. After the flowers appear on the plants, fertilizers containing nitrogen are stopped to be added to the soil.

In order to increase the yield in early July, a procedure is carried out pinching... On the bushes, remove all the lower leaves and leave two trunks. This procedure is recommended to be carried out once every ten days.

A mandatory procedure is tying up... Since the Eagle's beak is a tall variety, its thin stems cannot withstand the weight of the fruit, so that there are no breakages, the bushes are tied to supports.

Diseases and pests of the variety

Although this variety is resistant to diseases and fungi, prevention will not be superfluous. The following preventive measures are recommended:

  • before planting seedlings, pour the soil with a hot solution of strong manganese;
  • to fight insects, spray the bushes with an infusion of celandine, a decoction of onion peels, a solution of ammonia or soapy water;
  • in order to prevent fungal diseases, treat bushes phytosporin;
  • for late blight, use medicinal preparations.

Collecting seeds for seedlings

To independently collect seeds for seedlings, you need to choose the right fruits. When choosing fruits, you should adhere to the following requirements:

  • fruits must grow on healthy bushes;
  • suitable for harvesting only fruits plucked from the bottom branch;
  • the fruits should be fully ripe, but not overripe.

Cut the ripe fruit into slices. Use a spoon to pick out the seeds along with the liquid from the seed chambers. We place the seeds in a glass container. The juice should completely cover the seeds. We close the container with a lid, but not tightly to give air access, and leave it for a day to ferment.

Fermentation is considered complete when the juice brightens, the seeds settle to the bottom, and a film appears on the surface.

Pour the seeds into a sieve and carefully Rinse under running water. Blot the washed seeds with a paper towel, pour onto a plastic plate for final drying... This process takes a week. Collect dry seeds, place in a cloth bag or paper envelope and store in a cool, dark place.

Harvesting

The harvest is harvested in 105-115 days after planting seeds. The eagle's beak is a versatile variety. Its fruits are used both fresh for salads and for various preparations. Due to the dense pulp and sweetish taste, paste, ketchup are prepared from this variety of tomatoes, and used in the preparation of hot snacks.

If you follow all the recommendations, it is not difficult to get a rich harvest and stock up on planting material for the next year.


Characteristics of the Eagle's Beak tomato

The Eagle's Beak tomato has unusual characteristics that are rarely found in other varieties. Due to the fact that it does not require special care for itself and always gives amazing yield indicators, many farmers and gardeners love it so much.

Characteristics of the Eagle's Beak tomato


Eagle beak

The scientist-breeder V.N.Dederko worked on the creation of the variety. The agro-technical company "Siberian Garden" received a patent. The tomato entered the public sale in 2005. The eagle's beak is suitable for open field and greenhouse cultivation. Shows the best results in the Urals, Siberia and the Volga region in greenhouses.

Biological features

Eagle beak plants of unlimited growth type. Liana-shaped stems reach a height of 1.8-2 m. The main stem and lateral shoots with long internodes are thin and weak, therefore good support and a garter are required. The leaves are large, light green, sparsely located. The plant blooms with simple, small, yellow flowers, terry is not noted. The tendency to the formation of stepchildren is great. The root system is powerful, branched, goes deep into the ground.

Description of fruits and their use

The name of the variety reflects the appearance of the fruit. Heart-shaped tomatoes resemble the head of an eagle with a beak. The pink, glossy-skinned vegetables have a juicy, sugary pulp. Seed chambers (5-6 pieces) are poorly expressed, seeds are small or completely absent. On the break, the pulp is sugary, the juice does not flow. The average weight of fruits is 500-600 g, but with good care, individual specimens are poured up to 800 g. Within one cluster, fruits are different in size - the largest are formed closer to the base.

Fleshy tomatoes are good for fresh consumption. Large-fruited vegetables are not suitable for whole-fruit canning, but they make delicate sauces and tomato paste. The housewives consider fleshy, tender-skinned tomatoes ideal for lecho and winter preparations for borscht.

Farmers rarely cultivate Eagle's Beak on an industrial scale due to its flimsy tops. Vegetable growers, on the other hand, make good receipts from pink-fruited tomatoes. Indeed, in agricultural markets, they are sorted out first. Ripe tomatoes store well and tolerate transportation well.

Yield

Due to the large-fruited and tall plants, the yield from 1 sq. m turns out to be excellent. The first brush is laid over 9-10 leaves, then every 3 leaves. 5-6 large tomatoes are formed in the fruit cluster. Under good weather conditions, fruiting can last until September. Subject to the planting scheme - 1 sq. m. / 3 bushes, the yield can reach 20 kg from 1 square meter or 6-8 kg from a bush.

Diseases and pests

The variety is genetically resistant to late blight and fusarium. But high humidity and proximity to weaker varieties can provoke infection. Therefore, for healthy and long-term fruiting, it is recommended to carry out preventive treatments with antifungal agents. From folk recipes, irrigation of plants and soil around the bushes with kefir or sour milk perfectly copes with this task. Time-tested copper sulfate works well from store-bought products.

Advantages and disadvantages

Tomato Eagle's beak is one of the favorites of vegetable growers. A large number of advantages explain this fact:

  • forms ovaries both in cold weather and in abnormal heat
  • high yield
  • undemanding to growing conditions
  • large-fruited and pink-fruited
  • excellent taste
  • strong immunity to disease
  • mid-season.

Of the shortcomings, summer residents note only frail bushes of an eagle's beak. Long fruit clusters have difficulty holding weighty vegetables. Vegetable growers solve this problem most often by substituting slingshot sticks under each brush.


Growing features

Semi-determinant varieties are very productive, but demanding to care for.

It all starts with seedlings

The foundation for a good harvest is laid by growing strong, seasoned seedlings.

  1. Tomatoes are planted in a permanent place 60-70 days after germination.
  2. Taking into account whether tomatoes will grow in a greenhouse or on the street, the date of planting seeds for seedlings is calculated.
  3. This tomato variety can be planted in the greenhouse in the first decade of May. We begin to germinate seeds in early March.
  4. It is customary to plant tomatoes in open ground in late May, early June. In this case, we prepare the seeds for planting at the end of March.
  5. Traditionally, they are treated with a manganese solution and a growth stimulant.
  6. Sow to a depth of 2 cm and germinate at 23-25 ​​degrees.
  7. Plants can be dived when a second permanent leaf appears.
  8. It is important to ensure that there is sufficient lighting to avoid pulling the stems out.

Further care comes down to watering, loosening the topsoil and top dressing.

Semi-determinant plants often produce large numbers of fruits to the detriment of root development and vegetative mass. To prevent premature growth arrest, tomatoes should be intensively fed.

Disembarkation to a permanent place

Such features of the variety as the large weight of the tomatoes and the height of the plant require reliable support and an obligatory garter. Moreover, the stem is not powerful enough to hold a significant harvest. You will have to spend extra time forming the bush.

  1. Seedlings are planted in the ground at two months of age, using a planting scheme of 50 x 40. It is not recommended to plant more than three plants per square meter.
  2. It is imperative that reliable supports are installed and the stem is tied up.
  3. Care comes down to watering, fertilizing and measures to form a bush.
  4. When a plant with two stems is formed, a stepson is left, located below the first formed brush. 3-4 brushes are left on the main stem, 2 more brushes on the additional one and the shoot is pinched. The plant can provide full formation and development of no more than 8-12 brushes.
  5. If it is decided to leave only one stem, then 1-2 stepsons are kept in the upper part of the plant. If the main stem stops growing, growth continues with reserve shoots. All extra stepsons are removed.
  6. To prevent early growth arrest, the 4 largest tomatoes are left in the first two clusters. The rest of the clusters are formed from 4-8 fruits, removing all deformed ovaries.
  7. Plant growth can be supported by timely feeding and frequent root watering.

The variety is distinguished by good resistance to diseases and, when receiving quality care, will respond to care and attention with a decent harvest.


The specifics of growing

The best time to start work is mid-March. The main thing to observe the time interval between sowing seeds and transplanting to a permanent place is 60 days.

Seed preparation and sowing

It is recommended to prepare planting material in advance and only then sow. After processing, the grains will become stronger and become resistant to fungal diseases. In addition, it is possible to reduce the number of barren flowers. The seeds will germinate quickly and amicably.

Stages of preparatory work:

  1. Screening out barren flowers. Seeds suitable for sowing are easy to select. A small spoonful of salt is dissolved in a glass of water and all the grains are placed in the prepared solution. After 10-20 minutes, the water is drained from everything that has surfaced.
  2. Warming up. The planting material is placed in a cloth or gauze bag and placed near a heat source (the temperature should not exceed 25 ° C). Withstand 1 month.
  3. Disinfection. For this procedure, a solution of potassium permanganate, brilliant green or pure Chlorhexidine is used. After 30 minutes of soaking, the tomato seeds are washed and dried.
  4. Germination. In order for sprouts to appear, the grains must always be in a warm and humid environment. To do this, put cheesecloth folded in 3-4 layers on a flat plate or saucer, spray it well with warm water and place the seeds in one layer. Cover the top with the same layer of gauze or a thin cloth.The container is covered with a bag, leaving air there.

As soon as the first shoots appear as long as a grain, then you can start sowing. Sprouted seeds are planted in special containers or boxes filled with soil mixture. The planting material is laid to a depth of 1 cm. The distance between the grooves should be 2-3 cm. The containers are covered with a film or bag and transferred to a warm place for 5 days. With the appearance of the first sprouts, the containers are placed on the windowsill and the film cover is removed.

Growing and picking

Young sprouts of tomatoes Eagle's beak need not only watering, but also constant warmth of the sun's rays. Therefore, the window sill for containers should be chosen illuminated by the sun. It is important that the container with seedlings has drainage holes, otherwise there will be stagnation of water, which will lead to root rot.

The dive is carried out with the appearance of the first two leaves. Disposable plastic cups are used most often. 2 hours before starting work, the soil is watered so that the shoots can be easily removed from the ground.

  1. The sprouts are removed carefully so as not to damage the stem and root.
  2. The cups are filled with more than half of the potting soil.
  3. Make indentations with your finger so as to immerse the stem to the first leaves.
  4. A sprout is placed, sprinkled with earth on top and tamped.
  5. The containers are taken to a shaded place, and as soon as the seedlings get stronger, they are taken out into daylight.
  6. Watering is done once every 6-7 days.

To harden tomato sprouts Eagle's beak, a week before planting in the garden or greenhouse, you need to periodically open the vents to lower the temperature to 16-18 ° C.

Open ground transplant

The beds are prepared in advance and 60 days after sowing the seeds, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place. It is better to wait for warming so that the earth warms up to a temperature of + 10 ° C. No more than three plants are planted per square meter. Experienced gardeners place eagle's beak tomato seedlings in the holes in a 40 × 50 pattern. Before planting, potash fertilizers and humus are applied.

Further care

Compliance with all the rules for the care of the crop will ensure more friendly ripening of fruits and increase resistance to diseases.

  1. Watering. Hydration should be abundant, 2-3 times a week. Tomato Eagle's beak does not tolerate drought.
  2. Top dressing. Throughout the growing season, the bushes will need fertilization. For the first time after planting tomato seedlings, Eagle's beak is introduced with nitrogen preparations, after potash, phosphorus and complex preparations.
  3. Bush formation. As stepchildren appear, they will have to be constantly removed.
  4. Tying. Bushes grow tall, so they need to be tied to a support.

It is better to carry out any work in calm weather early in the morning or in the evening.

Plant protection from pests and diseases

The main prevention of diseases and damage to the bushes by parasites is the observance of all rules for the care of the crop. The main danger for the eagle's beak tomato can be the development of late blight. To avoid this, it is recommended to spray the bushes with Bordeaux liquid. If the fungus has infected the tomatoes, then fungicidal preparations can be used. There are many of them, but more often they are purchased by Fitosporin, Poliram, Acrobat.

Of the pests for culture, bears, slugs, Colorado beetles, wireworms and aphids are scary. To get rid of the parasite, insecticidal preparations are used. It could be Thanos, Commander, Bankol.


Tomato Eagle Beak

Reviews (Add new review)

I had to expand the greenhouse for the Eagle's Beak tomato variety, the tomatoes grow very good. It is a pity that they grow poorly in the open field, and they are very tall. But the harvest is excellent every year. Tomatoes are large, slightly elongated, as if in the shape of a heart. Sweet, fleshy.

The variety is medium early, but we already have red tomatoes in mid-June. Maybe it depends on the growing conditions. I give them more light, I cut off the extra leaves. Stepson must be divided into several stems, I make sure that they do not share too much, otherwise all the strength will go into the processes, and the fruits will be small.

By 300 grams weighing an average of 1 tomato grows.

I didn't really like the first fruits, because they are too large and coarse. Fleshy, of course, but this does not change matters, because even for fresh consumption they are not very suitable. But the second batch was already better, the fruits are smaller, no more than 300 grams.

Their skin is dense, does not crack, so it can be salted. Fleshy inside, bright, with sugary flesh. Now I will gut large fruits and take seeds for subsequent planting, and send small ones for cooking and conservation.

This winter we have already tried the canned "Eagle's Beak", it turned out very tasty.

I had the seeds from the Siberian Garden, their germination rate is 100%, they were additionally soaked in an activator and processed with potassium permanganate. I planted seedlings at the end of April, ripening came after 110 days, quite late.

There are varieties that ripen much earlier, "Eagle's Beak" is one of the belated ones.
The first fruits are large (up to 500 grams), the rest are a trifle of 200-300 grams, the weight is not very happy. I watered the bushes once a week, in terms of watering they are not whimsical at all.

During the season, fertilized often - more than 4 times, mainly in complexes, sometimes organic. To taste tomatoes for a C grade, no more.

For me personally, this variety is not particularly convenient for growing in large quantities. The stems grow by leaps and bounds, 2 meters in height is not the limit for them. You get tired of pinching, tying up endlessly, making sure that the shoot at the root does not break maternally, picking off the stepsons that this variety gives in incredible quantities.

In shape, ripe tomatoes resemble thick bell peppers, but they are not suitable for whole canning in jars - they just do not fit into the neck. If you salt in buckets, then you cannot stack more than 2 rows - they burst and deform under their own weight.

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"Eagle's Beak" is good only for fresh food, but 2-3 bushes are enough for this, I no longer plant.

I liked this tomato, planted it for the first time last year (Penza region). I took a packet from the Siberian Garden company. Planted in a greenhouse in early May. At first, the seedlings did not grow well, and then they went into growth. By August, they were up to the ceiling, and I cut off the tops.

It formed into 2 stems, there are a lot of stepchildren. I cut them all once a week.
I liked the tomatoes very much! Outwardly, they look like a Bull's heart, only pink, sugar at a break, fleshy and tender. With good feeding, tomatoes grow 300-400 grams, but I have few of them on the bush.

Over the summer, I collect 3-4 kg from a bush.

All tall varieties are very demanding to care for, but the harvest is good and the tomatoes are tasty, fleshy, as they love in our family. We liked this variety for long-term fruiting, so we will continue to plant it. The fruits are very good: they are sweet, fleshy, sugar at the break.

To get an early harvest, I sow seeds in early March. First, I soak the seeds in some kind of growth stimulant to be sure that the seeds will sprout. They sprout together, at the same time. As soon as they grow up, I dive.

I plant seedlings of this variety only in a greenhouse, because it bears fruit in Siberia before frost, for a long time.

Fruiting begins early, around the end of July. Tomato has a lot of stepchildren, I cut it off constantly, forming a stem in 1 branch, sometimes in 2. It takes a lot of time to garter the stems. There are many flowers on the stem, but the ovary does not exist, of course, from all of them.

It still turns out on a cyst of 4-6 tomatoes. The lower ones grow the largest, up to 600 grams, then smaller, but also large, 300 grams on average. From 1 bush we get a decent harvest! These tomatoes not only ripen until September, but are stored ripe for a long time.

Greens can be easily ripened.

Most of the time when growing an Eagle's beak is not taken by standard care procedures, but by the formation of a bush. It is imperative to remove almost all of the stepsons, otherwise the productivity is greatly reduced.

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It is necessary to pluck off excess leaves so that it does not interfere with the access of light to ripening tomatoes, otherwise they will become very small. You have to fiddle with tying for a long time so that the stems do not break under the weight of large fruits.

If you do not harvest on time or skip watering, then cracking of the skin does not occur. A great danger is posed by unexpected outbreaks of late blight, therefore I regularly carry out preventive treatment with special formulations.

It is not necessary to use aggressive insecticides to get rid of insects. Good results are obtained by using a soap solution or a decoction of celandine. To quickly eliminate the first manifestations of the fungus, I use Fitosporin.

The variety grows equally well in garden beds and in a greenhouse. In the 1st case, the taste is better, but the yield is lower. There are no problems with the transportation of the harvested crop; it retains its consumer properties for a long time. Preservation is possible only in cut form.

The variety is very large-fruited, so you have to pay great attention to watering and regular feeding. But because of such care, stepchildren begin to grow quickly, the entire fruiting season has to form a bush so that the yield does not fall.

Without supports and garters, the stems break under the weight of the crop. There are no problems with obtaining seeds and subsequent reproduction, the main thing is to select them correctly. I dip the ones I like in a salt solution for 15 minutes, so all the empty ones will appear on the surface.

The rest are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate in order to disinfect. I grow seedlings in ready-made store-house soil mixtures containing the necessary substances. Hardening the seedlings avoids picking problems.

Frequent watering is not necessary, but should be abundant and carried out at least once a week.

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Tomatoes respond best to plantafol. The optimal application schedule is 3-4 times per season.

Organics based on manure and poultry droppings must be used very carefully, aggressive compounds burn plants.

An excess of nitrogen leads to excessive growth of foliage and stems, and the ovaries stop forming. Usually I form a bush of 1-2 stems, remove all unnecessary stepchildren so that the yield does not decrease.

The variety is only suitable for planting outdoors or in well-ventilated greenhouses. It is not self-pollinating, insects are needed. For planting, you need a lot of space, the plants grow sprawling, with a developed root system. Ripe tomatoes have an unusual shape - elongated or heart-shaped with a curved tip resembling a bird's beak.

The bushes show high resistance to cold weather. Bad summers or recurrent frosts do not result in crop loss. In the beds, the stems reach a height of 1.5 meters, but they always remain thin. You have to tie it up, otherwise they will bend or break under the weight of the crop. Timely pinching allows for faster growth and higher yields.

Plants spend their energy not on the growth of stems, but on the formation of fruits.

The harvest ripens in 2-3 waves, new ovaries are formed until autumn. The 1st crop can be harvested 12-14 weeks after the appearance of a couple of full leaves.

Tomatoes removed from the bushes are not stored for more than a week, not bad for large-fruited varieties. I use tomatoes for fresh consumption and for making juices or ketchups, they turn out to be fragrant and thick.

Canning is possible only in cut form.

I planted seeds from the Siberian Garden in a pre-prepared substrate: earth + peat + sand + wood ash (regulates the acidity of the soil). Germination rate is 100%, before planting it was treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

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I transplanted into the greenhouse after 60 days, at that time the soil in the greenhouse warmed up, and the plants had already grown a root system. 2 weeks after planting, he began to apply nitrogen fertilizers, after flowering he applied only potassium fertilizer.

Bushes tied up by growth, led in 2 stems, they grow tall and have no restrictions in growth - you need to pinch. A little more than 100 days passed from germination to harvesting, the plants did not hurt, did not wither. Fruits differed in size: the average weight was 500 grams, some grew up to 800.

They are oblong in shape, with a slightly pointed tail. The color is deep pink, sometimes with an orange tint, without spots. The ribbing is barely noticeable, the fruits are very fleshy, the juice is less. Sugar taste, the flesh is dense, there are no white streaks and voids inside.

Tomatoes are easy-going, they can be stored in the refrigerator for a long time. They are good both fresh and in preparations, sauces, various dishes. In recent years, we have planted "Eagle's Beak" much more often than "Bull's Heart", we like the first hybrid more.

I don’t know why, but the Eagle's Beak variety bears much less fruit than its brother Eagle Heart. It turns out less than 6 kg per bush, the tomatoes are slightly elongated, with a curved tip. Not the biggest ones - from 200 to 500 grams.

It just doesn't work out to grow beautiful fruits, there is always some kind of trouble with them!
Brown spots appear (either a disease or an innate variety), the shoulders turn yellow, although I regulate the feeding and apply only proven fertilizers that other varieties take without problems.

I also don’t like the fact that inside the fruit there are green veins, how this is - it’s not clear, only if it’s long and tedious to cut this outrage.

I grow "Eagle's Beak" only in the open field, the weather allows it, because the region is southern and warm. The variety almost does not get sick, but due to the fact that it ripens late, it can pick up phytophthora. For prevention, you need to spray with phytosporin or some other safe drug.

The easiest way is to treat it with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate. If you get sick, then at the first sign it is necessary to treat it with copper preparations.
Due to the open method of cultivation, it was necessary to constantly drive different beetles - ammonia and a decoction of onion peels helped, although only chemistry drove out the aphids.

But it was worth it, the harvest is wonderful, I will plant again!


Planting and leaving

You can start sowing seedlings in mid-March. The soil is prepared by mixing garden soil with humus, sand and peat. It is helpful to add some wood ash or superphosphate to this mixture. To protect the plant from infections, it is recommended to bake the planting soil in the oven.

Before sowing, the seeds should be soaked for 10-15 hours (they cannot be kept in liquid for more than 20 hours). To increase germination, you can use a growth stimulant instead of water. The swollen seeds are sown into the soil to a depth of 2 centimeters, after which the container with the sowing is tightened with a film or tightly closed with a lid and placed in a warm and dark place for 4-5 days.

The container with shoots that should appear during this time is placed in a well-lit place. Sprouts are watered with warm water as the top layer of soil in the pot dries. It is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not fall below + 16 ° С at night and + 22 ° С - during the day, and drafts should also be excluded.

The pick is carried out as usual - with 2 leaves, the soil in new containers is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate before planting. Immediately after transplanting, the plants need to be fed with a complex liquid fertilizer.

On the 60th day after germination, the seedlings are transferred to the greenhouse. Before planting, the soil in the greenhouse is also watered with a hot solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection purposes. The next top dressing is carried out on the 15th day after planting, using fertilizers with nitrogen. The greenhouse needs to be ventilated frequently.

In early June, the ground will be warm enough to plant seedlings in open ground. Since the bushes of this variety are spreading, plants should not be placed too densely - 70 centimeters should be left between the seedlings.

Bushes form into one stem. According to the reviews of those who planted this variety in their plots, it is quite acceptable to leave two stems.As it grows, it is necessary to remove the stepsons and lower leaves, performing this procedure at least every 10 days. Plants should be watered about once a week, but abundantly. After each watering, you need to loosen the ground. Watering becomes especially important when the first ovaries appear.

During the flowering period, the plants need to be fed again with potash fertilizers. During the season, about 4 dressings should be done, giving preference to phosphorus and potash or organic fertilizers.

You can increase the size of the fruit by removing some of the emerging inflorescences. It is also influenced by the planting density.

Despite the resistance of the variety to disease, preventive measures against fungal infections and insect pests should not be neglected.

“To be honest, at first I was skeptical about this variety - I didn't believe that it was really possible to grow such large tomatoes without super-complicated care. So the variety was a pleasant surprise, living up to its promises. Of course, I have not seen giants of 800-900 g, which are sometimes written about on the Internet, but 500 and even 600 are quite common for these bushes. "

“I saw the eagle's beak at the neighbors. It is difficult not to notice such handsome men - tall, with huge bright fruits. I asked to try it - I liked the taste madly. So from this year I join the club of gardeners who admire this variety. "

“Since childhood, I love homemade tomato juice. Where I live now, it is not easy to find such a variety of tomatoes that bear fruit well and tastes exactly like that grandmother's (mother's family from the south). I discovered the eagle's beak several years ago and since then I have been growing it constantly, mostly for the sake of juice - it is just that, literally the taste of childhood! "

The tomato needs abundant watering. This is done at least once a week with rainwater.

Bushes must be tied to a support. Thin stems may not support the weight of the fruit and break.

The bush is formed into 1-2 stems. Stepchildren are removed at least once every 10 days. Extra leaves are also cut off: the lower ones (up to the first fruit cluster) and those that cover the fruits from the sun. The formation of the bush begins in July and continues throughout the growing period of the tomato.

Top dressing is carried out 3 times per season. The first time the plants are fed 14 days after planting in the ground, then every 2 weeks. Organic (humus, rotted manure, infusion of weeds, eggshells, onion husks) and complex fertilizers are suitable.

When flowering begins, it is necessary to stop using fertilizers containing nitrogen (urea) in order to stop foliage growth and stimulate fruit formation.

The soil in the aisles must be periodically loosened and mulched.


Watch the video: Single Stem Tomato String Support and Outside Trellis Details