Why chrysanthemum does not bloom in autumn

Why chrysanthemum does not bloom in autumn

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Tell me, why don't autumn chrysanthemums bloom in my garden? It's already October, and you can't see the flowers! I'd love to enjoy the bright colors before winter arrives!


Specialist's answer

Hello Victoria.

There are several reasons for the lack of flowers in chrysanthemums. For the successful development, growth and flowering of one of the most beautiful autumn plants, it is necessary to adhere to a number of agrotechnical techniques and subtleties of cultivation. Let us immediately note the fact that only varieties of garden chrysanthemum (Ch. X hortorum = Dendranthema i hortorum), combined into a species of hybrid origin called Korean chrysanthemum, can winter in central Russia. Today, there are many varieties of this plant. They are distinguished by late summer and autumn flowering, resistance. According to the Doctor of Biological Sciences, Professor R.A. Karpisonova, the most promising varieties for our region are:

  • Malchish-Kibalchish,
  • Mascot,
  • Radiant,
  • Kupava,
  • Lada,
  • Edelweiss,
  • Hebe,
  • Citrus and other undersized and early flowering specimens.

Chrysanthemum varieties blooming profusely in autumn in our strip: photo

Chrysanthemum varieties differ in terms of flowering with a peak in August-September, as well as in height (from 25 to 100 cm), size and color of inflorescences. The plant is characterized by a spherical bush shape, density and long-term abundant flowering. To improve branching, the shoots can be pinched (it takes about a month between pinching and budding). Faded inflorescences must be removed - this also prolongs flowering. The earliest low varieties usually bloom in mid-July. For tall varieties, the dates are postponed, but their flowering continues until the first snow.

We advise you to pay special attention to the choice of a place for planting the queen of the autumn garden. Chrysanthemums prefer areas open to the sun, sheltered from the wind, with close to neutral, rich soils without waterlogging - with excessive moisture, the roots of the plant rot. If the soils on the site are acidic, they need to be calcified by adding dolomite flour or lime to the soil. Before planting, add 10–20 kg of humus per 1 square meter, embedding fertilizers into the soil to a depth of 20–25 cm. Mineral dressings are carried out at the beginning of the growing season (complex), and during the budding period - phosphorus-potassium. It is best to replant chrysanthemums in the spring with a large clod of earth. Autumn planting and transplanting greatly reduces winter hardiness and the chances of a successful overwintering.

It should be noted that winters with thin snow cover or its temporary absence are very destructive for chrysanthemums. Therefore, gardeners often resort to using shelters made from a layer of fallen leaves (it is good if these are oak leaves) or spruce branches. Before wintering, the stems are cut to a height of 15–17 cm. The main thing is that the flowers do not vomit outside under cover and are ventilated. If a chrysanthemum variety is thermophilic or blooms late, it is better to dig it up, cut it off and store it in a dry room with an air temperature of + 2 ... + 4. Many gardeners do not leave chrysanthemums to winter in the ground, but resort to cuttings. The bush is dug up in the fall and taken to be stored in a cool room. In late May - early June, the plant is propagated by cuttings, which are planted in a permanent place in the garden. It is these young specimens that bloom for a long time and abundantly.

So, we have listed the basic requirements for agricultural technology and the cultivation of chrysanthemums. These are the benefits that you yourself can create for your favorite perennials in the garden, thereby increasing the chances of a colorful and long lasting flower show. But, unfortunately, there is one thing that, perhaps, will reduce all your efforts to a minimum - this is the weather factor. Even if you do everything right, surprises from Mother Nature may not allow buds to form in time. In this case, even in October, you will not wait for flowers.

The flowering of chrysanthemums very often depends on how favorable the weather conditions developed during the growing season. Climatic phenomena directly affect the endurance and winter hardiness of plants. This includes the ability of varieties to withstand severe winter frosts, resistance to early cold weather, temperature extremes, thaws at the end of winter and a sharp return cold snap. In plants, the most vulnerable spot is the root system. The roots can be severely damaged in years with stagnant waterlogging, as well as in snowless winters, when the absence of snow cover is combined with a sharp cold snap. Remember, this was the situation the winter before last. In many areas, chrysanthemums not only did not bloom, they simply died. This year, climatic disasters never cease to amaze us. Late spring, cold, non-summer June with lingering rains pushed back flowering in many perennial crops. In the Moscow region, flowers of peonies continued to appear in the first decade of July, which is not typical for varieties whose peak flowering occurs at the end of June. In 2017, the weather factor shifted the growing processes by an average of two weeks, thereby postponing the flowering time in perennial chrysanthemums. Perhaps you have not seen the holiday of autumn colors for this very reason.

In order to have time to enjoy the wonderful flowers of the autumn queen-chrysanthemum in your country house, try to resort to the method of grafting a mother plant in the spring, and also use the shortest and early flowering varieties in your area. For example, the border variety Pastoral, up to 30 cm high, is caramel pink. Or Target of foreign selection with contrastingly colored pink inflorescences and burgundy center. The spectacular variety Cherry Orchard up to 45 cm high will decorate your plot with flowers of a noble cherry hue, and a bright yellow will be added by the Golden Hive, reminiscent of a honeycomb.

It is interesting! You can attend an unforgettable autumn show in Japan, where traditionally on September 9, a chrysanthemum exhibition is held. In Tokyo, you can admire fantastic displays at Shinjuku-Geen and the Yushima-Tenjin Shrine. In Yokohama, this is Sankeien Park. There you can see not only the whole variety of chrysanthemums, but also many realized ideas and fantasies using the same plant, including traditional Japanese dolls made of flowers or skillfully formed chrysanthemum trees with flower tiers, as well as fragments of the Japanese landscape created for contemplation and beauty.

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Today, many species of this flower are known. It can be grown not only outdoors, but also indoors. Moreover, home varieties practically do not differ from garden varieties. The only significant difference is the size. Home varieties are smaller.

The chrysanthemum is easily recognizable by its beautiful light green champlete, serrated or dissected leaves. The shape of her flowers is somewhat similar to a basket. Chrysanthemum also has a branched root system that develops parallel to the soil surface.

If there are no buds in a home flower

Home chrysanthemum does not bloom for a number of reasons. Excessive humidity or dryness of the air, problems with lighting, poor soil, diseases, or an unsuitable pot size can lead to such consequences.

Also, the reason may be too late the start of sprouting of chrysanthemums in the spring, when the cut bush is taken out of the cool storage at the wrong time, and it does not have time to form on time.

An indirect reason for the lack of normal flowering of chrysanthemums at home can be a variety. It is better to select home varieties suitable for the conditions of an apartment or other room.

These include small chrysanthemums, a feature of which is compactness: the height of the bush of such plants does not exceed 30 cm, which means that it will be much easier to transplant, water and maintain it in the right conditions.

The types that are better suited to the conditions of home or indoor floriculture include the following:

  • indian
  • Chinese
  • Korean.

Of the most popular homemade varieties, the following can be distinguished:

  • Talisman - the diameter of the inflorescences of this variety does not exceed 2 cm, the color is dark crimson
  • Malchish-kibalchish - the plant has non-double pink-lilac inflorescences 7 cm in diameter, outwardly resembling chamomile
  • Evening lights - red-yellow inflorescences 5.5 cm in diameter
  • The first snow is a plant with semi-double white inflorescences up to 5 cm in diameter
  • Raspberry pompom - hemispherical flowers of this variety have a diameter of about 6 cm.

If the cuttings of bush chrysanthemums were carried out in early spring at about the 15th week, then from 16 to 18 weeks the process of development of the root system takes place. Starting from the 19th week, the plant begins an active vegetative phase. But for the appearance of color, the chrysanthemum needs a shortened daylight hours. It begins to bloom at about 37 weeks. But, if you create conditions for diffused light and light shading in the afternoon, flowering can be achieved at the 32nd week.

Chrysanthemums can be grown both outdoors and in pots. More thermophilic varieties can winter in a pot, and spring, summer and autumn - in the open field. Frost-resistant varieties can be left in the ground for the winter, or they can be transplanted into a container and stored in a cool, shaded place.

Important! Do not forget to water the root in the pot. Without moisture, the plant will die, just like with stagnant water.

The main measures of resuscitation and prevention

Chubushnik does not bloom, what to do and how to restore the health of the plant, you need to know in order to prevent problems in time. In order for any plant to delight with buds, it is necessary to provide it with proper care, planting and transplantation. The flower should be watered regularly, fertilized with minerals and loosened the soil.

Regular and terry views must be processed taking into account the following rules:

  • Fertilize the plant twice during the growing season. To improve flowering, potassium-based fertilizers must be added. In the summer, feed from phosphorus compounds. Liquid fertilizers are the best choice.
  • Garden jasmines are pruned in July. Thickened shoots should be removed so that the young can develop normally. Do not forget about the rejuvenation of the shrub. If the plant is more than 10 years old, the branches must be removed at the root. This procedure provides a powerful stimulation of flowering and further growth.
  • Before wintering, the soil must be mulched with peat or pine needles by 3-4 cm.
  • When the jasmine blooms, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatment against pests.

For what year the mock-orange blooms depends on the breeding method, as well as on the conditions of care. The more precisely the person follows the instructions, the better for the flower. And the more chances that he will decorate the garden with fragrant inflorescences.

Watch the video: Plants are not flowering? Apply these two things and see the results