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How to grow garlic (About garlic without secrets. Part 2)

How to grow garlic (About garlic without secrets. Part 2)


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What problems arise when growing this beloved culture in Russia?

1. I heard in a private conversation: “Well, here's another, I'll get out in the garden with a pitchfork: dig this one, don't dig this one. If you don't dig it, the stem will break off "

It seems like a serious argument. Why don't I have such a problem? It turns out that I never thought about it. I began to analyze. Most of the plants I pull out without the aid of a pitchfork or a shovel. Some are cut off. Those that are unripe. Their roots are much stronger. So again, we came to the need for selective cleaning: ripe specimens are easier to pull out, and unripe ones are not pulled out yet.

Here are a few more recommendations that I cannot agree with because my experience proves otherwise:

2. "It makes no sense to plant teeth with damaged scales, since when they hit the ground, they begin to rot"

It has been tested many times in practice - teeth planted even completely without scales develop normally, just like those planted in a shell.

3. "It is harmful to cover the planting with a thick layer of insulation: the seedlings cannot break through and die"

For many years I have been covering plantings of winter garlic with poplar foliage with a layer of 15 cm. Poplar leaves are large and denser (than, for example, on birch or maple). In the spring, "armor" is 3-4 cm thick on the garden bed. But garlic easily breaks through these leaves. It does not push it apart, but pierces it like an awl. Other cultures are not capable of this.

4. "Winter garlic can be propagated in two ways: with chives and air bulbs, and spring garlic - only with chives."

Garlic may become lumpy and non-lumpy depending on conditions. In my practice, arrows grew twice on spring garlic. In 2010, the bulbs did not ripen on spring. But in 2007 they matured. The next year they were planted and gave very small (1-2 cm in diameter) heads. Subsequent reproduction did not lead to anything good - the heads were consistently very small.

5. “Fertilizers for garlic are best applied in liquid form. The roots of garlic, going down, often starve due to the fact that all the humus is concentrated at the top. "

"Roots do not have the ability to branch"

I do not use any fertilizers or dressings. The soil is not dug up, the most fertile layer is the top five centimeters. Judging by the size of the heads, the garlic is not starving. If you carefully dig in the head and examine the roots, it is easy to see that the roots are not purely string-like, but there are also lateral branches. Perhaps this is the effect of the use of no-till technology.

6. “Before planting, the bulbs should be soaked in water for a day. Pop-ups - delete "

Hydrosorting is desirable not only for bulbs, but also for planting teeth and one-toothed teeth. Once I threw a bowl of large (3-4 cm in diameter) one-tooth into the water. About 10% surfaced. Dense, juicy bulbs to the touch, outwardly no different from the rest. He took off the "shirt" of several - there are no traces of disease. It seems that everything is the same as that of the drowned. Are they really bad? It's a pity to throw out such large one-toothed teeth ... I conducted an experiment: I planted floating bulbs, one-toothed teeth and little teeth on a separate piece of the garden. Result: seedlings no more than 15% of the planted material. The harvest is such that it would be better not to plant. But "swimmers" should not be thrown away - they can be used for food.

7. "For planting, you need to select the largest bulbs, small bulbs will give a small one-tooth"

Selection by size should only be made within the same variety. After all, some varieties, for example, "Autumn", give very small bulbs - less than a match head. But then normal one-toothed teeth grow out of them.

8. “Inventive gardeners have come up with an economical way to grow garlic. Before planting, cut the cloves of winter garlic vertically in half so that each half-clove retains an approximately equal part of the bottom. The husk is permissible. The slices are allowed to dry by dusting them with ash. And then they are planted in the same way as whole slices. As a result of such an economical planting, garlic heads of the same size are obtained, only the arrow is displaced from the center of the bulb to its edge "

Twice I tried to grow garlic from chopped cloves (just for fun) - none came up. Although quite a few halves of the teeth remained intact - they seemed to be mummified.

9. From private correspondence: "Do you have a whole team working to collect leaves to cover two hundred parts of garlic?"

For myself, I found a very simple and effective way to collect foliage. During a massive leaf fall, I go to a forest plantation in the field. At this time, a lot of foliage lies on the road. It is very easy to collect foliage from the road: the vegetation does not interfere, and there is no abundance of small twigs, as it happens under the trees. In addition, transport runs on field roads very rarely, you can be sure that the leaves are not stuffed with harmful substances.

10. "You can speed up the work of dividing the bulbs by using a small pointed stick that is inserted into the center of the bulb."

Quickly dividing the bulbs adapted using a rounded knife. Covering scales can be easily removed. At the same time, the teeth and "shirts" on the teeth are not injured. With the same knife, it is easy to divide the head into teeth.

11. “The books advise you to plant the chives at a shallow depth. But I have developed my own technique: I plant the planting material 30 cm into the soil "

“You can get large garlic only with a deep planting, not smaller than 15 centimeters. With a shallow planting, the heads grow small "

Perhaps these recommendations are suitable for sandy loam soils. For loams and clay, following these tips is a surefire way to go without a crop. This is especially true for dug up clay soil. After watering, such soil is strongly compacted. And it is unlikely that you can then loosen the garden to a depth of 30 centimeters.

12. “It should be borne in mind the instruction of Professor V. I. Edelstein that winter garlic planted in spring grows with a whole bulb, or, as they say, an“ apple ”. I advise all experts to keep some of the winter chives until spring and plant them in order to test the possibility of obtaining round bulbs "

I experimented this way for several years. Changed planting dates from late April to late May. Conditions in different years were different. But the output of the one-toothed was extremely small. Less than 5%. More often, heads that are not fully ripe are formed. Quite often they are quite large.

13. "You can't grow good garlic without watering on precipitation alone."

Undoubtedly, watering will increase the yield. But in his practice, he received 100-gram heads without watering, even in a dry year. Thanks to the mulch.

14. From private correspondence: “I get 4 kg of garlic per square meter. Landing scheme - 15x50 cm " Interested in: "How much does your head weigh on average?" "100 grams"

Perhaps I am not good at math. But with such a planting scheme, 13 plants will be placed on a square meter. This means that in order to obtain such a yield, the heads of garlic must weigh on average 300 grams. Each one. If they are 100 grams each, you get 1.3 kg per square meter. Let's pay close attention to the numbers.

15. “And I do not advise you to plant it denser: once again, one-toothed or bulbs will grow out of one-toothed ones, no larger than them. But when you plant 20x20 cm, you will have those very heads that are 100 grams each and ... more "

And further:

When planting the teeth, I make the "distance" 12-15 cm from each other, and between the rows - 50 cm. Would you say, wide? Nothing of the kind, garlic is very picky about light and space. With a thickened planting, it will hurt, and the heads will grow "puny-skinny"

In my standard 50 cm wide garden bed, I always plant three rows of garlic. That is, a row of rad is 20 cm. I experimented with distances in a row of 15, 20, 30 centimeters between large cloves - the yield is the same. 8 centimeters in a row - the yield is lower than at 15 cm. Everyone should find the optimal planting scheme in their own conditions. Why would the land be empty? For medium and small teeth, the schemes are already different. "Only the largest teeth should be taken for landing." - this is a must for selection. But ... There are several observations.

When cooking, the wife often uses medium heads. For the simple reason that large chives do not fit into the garlic press.

I put a saucer with peeled garlic on the table: large cloves, medium and small. First, the small ones "left", then the medium ones, and the large ones remained lying. The next time, only the remaining large teeth lay on the saucer. But no one touched them. As soon as the change was put in, it was immediately used for its intended purpose.

At the market I sell garlic in bundles (500 grams each). There are several different bundles. In each bundle, the heads are selected of the same size, but their number is different (from 15 to 5 pieces, depending on the weight). The most frequent question from buyers: "How many pieces are there in a bundle?" Take those bundles where there are more pieces. Although I warn you that the weight is the same.

So is it worth chasing very large heads? Perhaps it is better to find conditions under which there will be a greater number of medium and even small heads? After all, even small heads of winter garlic cloves are convenient to clean - there are few of them in the head.

Read the end of the article →

Oleg Telepov, Omsk

Photo by Olga Rubtsova



When to harvest garlic in 2017

"When to dig up garlic in 2017?" - this is the question asked by novice gardeners who have planted this crop on their site. However, in order to answer it, you need to know what kind of garlic we are talking about (winter or spring) when the vegetables were planted. And knowledge of weather conditions is also an equally significant factor.

As you know, winter garlic is planted in the ground in September-October, and spring garlic - in April-May (in the central part of Russia), and so the first option ripens a month earlier - in mid-July-early August. It is during this period that you need to start collecting it. Spring garlic ripens in mid-August-early September.

Finding out if the garlic is ripe is quite simple. It is necessary to look at the aerial part of the culture - if the leaves began to slope down, and the lower feathers turned yellow, then this is the first sign of ripening of vegetables. However, in order to be sure of the ripeness of the garlic, you need to dig up one plant and examine its head - a cracked shell and a clear peep of the cloves are a sure sign of maturity. For reliability, you can twist the cloves of garlic in your hand - if the film is easily removed from them, then this also indicates the full maturity of the culture.

In order for the harvest of garlic to be well kept, it is advisable to harvest it according to the lunar calendar. The most favorable days for harvesting crops in 2017 are the following numbers: 5, 6, 7, 15, 16, 19, 20, 23 and 24 July, as well as 1, 2, 3, 11, 12, 15, 16, 29 and August 30. Whether or not to turn to the lunar calendar - every gardener decides for himself, however, the general rules for collecting garlic are the same for everyone who wants to preserve vegetables for a long time. The basic rules are below:

  • after digging out the garlic, it must be left to dry for 2-3 days in direct sunlight, and after the specified time it must be hung for a couple of weeks under a canopy
  • you cannot knock the bulbs against each other (some gardeners in this way try to knock down the soil stuck to the vegetables), since such manipulations negatively affect their keeping quality
  • it is impossible to cut off the roots and leaves of garlic immediately after digging, since during drying, part of the nutrients from them enters the bulbs
  • store vegetables in a cool dry place, preferably away from direct sunlight. A great option is in a box, wrapping each onion in a newspaper.


Natural farming and nitrogen


I think that every plant breeder knows about the importance of nitrogen in plant life. Everyone read the recommendations on the need to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers to the soil.

Hardly anyone has not heard the warning that fresh sawdust cannot be used in a garden-vegetable garden, that they should first be soaked in urea. That fresh organic matter deprives the soil of nitrogen. I have heard and read about this many times. But I just could not reconcile this information with the facts in my mind. In nature, no one brings nitrogen into the soil, and the plants grow to the envy of gardeners. Nobody fertilizes plant litter with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, but it decomposes rather quickly.

On his site, he also did not apply manure for a long time, and did not soak mulch with nitrogen fertilizers. Many times I was warned that straw and other coarse organic matter of mulch "will eat up all the nitrogen in the soil" and nothing will grow at all. But it is growing! And it grows well. I explained this fact for myself and others simply. Mulch is in contact with the soil in a very thin layer. Therefore, the microbes that decompose the mulch cannot take nitrogen from the soil. The explanation, in my opinion, is quite logical. More recently, I found an article on the Internet that put everything in its place in my understanding of this problem. I did not dare to retell it, so I am citing an excerpt from the article, slightly changing some points that do not relate to the meaning of the problem presented. I hope the author (Alexander Kuznetsov) will forgive me for the changes. Here's what he writes:

"Caring for" soil nitrogen "is generally absurd, bordering on sadism. Remember the historical facts of the most painful death of prisoners, when sophisticated executioners fed them only meat (pure protein). Prisoners slowly died the most painful and painful death from metabolic disorders. Their liver was slowly but surely destroyed due to the imbalance between protein and carbohydrate metabolism.Without carbohydrate metabolism, there can be no other harmonious metabolism: neither protein nor fat. Harmony in metabolism and nutrition is necessary not only for humans and animals, but for any metabolism and nutrition, in any organisms. Soil is also an organism, in its nutrition and metabolism. And the "careful" introduction of nitrogen into the soil as fertilizer is, strictly speaking, actions aimed at disrupting the balance of nutrition and metabolism of a living organism - soils bordering I, of course, exaggerate a little. But how else to call such "care" for the soil on the part of modern gardeners?

What is soil nitrogen? It is not just a chemical element, nitrogen. These are its compounds of organic origin, it is easier to say - proteins and their components. In soil, nitrogen is more often presented in the form of amino acids (according to soil digestion), or as a product of protein metabolism as urea. Urea - (NH2) 2CO. As the end product of protein metabolism (breakdown of proteins), urea is an unstable substance; in the presence of water and oxygen, it rapidly decomposes into ammonia (NH3) and carbon dioxide (CO2). By the way, urea (urea fertilizer) is obtained by synthesis from ammonia and carbon dioxide. Ammonia is the strongest poison for all living things. If there is no one to dispose of it in the soil, there are no corresponding microbes, it causes irreparable harm: it destroys soil inhabitants and plants. Although urea is widely used as a concentrated "fertilizer" containing 46% nitrogen. The question is, why? To "feed" the plants with nitrogen.

So after all, plants do not assimilate ammonia nitrogen, which is formed from urea immediately, as soon as it enters a humid environment when oxygen is available. For the "nitrogen" of ammonia to be assimilated, it must undergo a number of significant transformations, thanks to special microbes for which ammonia and urea are food. These are nitrifying bacteria: nitrosobacteria and nitrobacteria. They convert ammonia and ammonium salts into nitric acid salts - nitrates. And only nitrates can be absorbed by plants. But in the soil (meaning healthy, harmonious soil) there are few such nitrifying bacteria.If you immediately, at once, add large concentrations (doses, portions) of urea fertilizer, then all living things, including plants, will die from ammonia poisoning, which there will be no one to "assimilate" (digest). Here I mean not only chemical fertilizers in the form of salt - urea. Urea, or urea, contains high concentrations of fresh manure, especially liquid manure (with urine). And rotted (fermented), contains a huge amount of nitrates. Excessive accumulation of nitrates in the soil is also undesirable. Even their biogenic origin leads to soil salinity, in the form of salt-like masses (Chilean nitrate, potassium nitrate, etc.) and salt deposits (efflorescence, crusts, deposits). This, in turn, disturbs the balance of metabolism and "soil digestion". Plants on such excess "nitrogen" (nitrate) nutrition "drive burdock". And if the soil is considered as a single organism, we can say that we are destroying the "liver" of the soil - the humus formation system (soil microworld), and the harmonious nutrition of plants and metabolism. The basis of which is carbon exchange, in comparison with nitrogen exchange is tertiary.

For the sake of clarity, I will again turn to the analogy with animal exchange. For example, carnivores and omnivores, although they consume protein food (meat - flesh), cannot assimilate urea (carbamide), the end product of protein metabolism, as "food". Urea in urine is excreted from the body as the final harmful and useless food and metabolism product. Taking as "food" even a few grams of carbamide can cause liver damage and death for this reason. And this is because there are no microbes in their stomach and intestines that can utilize ammonia and urea (nitrobacteria).

Unnatural interference with any metabolism and digestion processes leads to a violation of harmony and balance. The same conclusion applies to the soil, as to a living organism, the basis for maintaining the life of which is the balance of metabolism and digestion as a source of nutrition. Believe it or not, little depends on your faith and mine. But is this essential for the basis of understanding? The essence is important, not the form. Knowing the essence of phenomena and processes, you can choose the form of performance. And to feed the microcosm of soil and plants not with "scraps" from someone else's table (humates and "high-quality composts"), and even less with rot - "organic fertilizers" (humus, composts). And high-quality healthy food - any fresh organic residues of plant origin, in the form of mulch. Using all this directly on the soil under plants, and not only garden, but also garden (vegetable). Many thoughtful gardeners and truck farmers have this experience, who came to this understanding on their own, on a whim, on intuition. Sometimes and not knowing the explanation, but doing it absolutely right. So these are not my inventions, but real facts, from the real gardening practice of many people who love their land, and not just mine. "(End of quote)

The author is not unfounded. He uses fresh sawdust as mulch in his garden. Nothing "flavors" them and does not impregnate them. Despite this "liberty", a 15-centimeter layer of sawdust decomposes to a state of humus in two years. I foresee objections, both theorists and practitioners of gardening. Many times I have met reports about the negative impact of fresh sawdust on the harvest. But if after pressing the switch of the table lamp, the light does not light up for you, then this does not mean at all that electricity does not exist. It is possible that you simply forgot to insert the plug into the outlet. The same is in crop production. If something does not work out, then, probably, something is not taken into account, something is missing.

In nature, organic matter decomposes quickly thanks to a whole army of soil "workers" - microbes, fungi, saprophytic insects. And they do not need nitrogen simply because they are able to assimilate it from the atmospheric air. And there is plenty of it in the air. It is necessary that the air is in the place of "work" of soil workers, so that there is where to get nitrogen. And also the conditions for life - moisture and heat. That's all. Further, the soil dwellers will do everything for you. And they will store nitrogen, and biologically active substances will be obtained, and microelements in an easily digestible form, and macronutrients. All this is in unfermented (not overripe) organic matter. Those minerals that the plant took from the soil did not disappear anywhere, they remained in the remains of a dead plant. And soil digestions are able to translate all this into an easily digestible form.

Nature wisely foresees everything, everything is taken into account. Everything is done without human intervention. You just need to take a closer look at natural conditions and, as far as possible, repeat them. It's not hard. It is necessary to stop disrupting the structure of the soil by plowing and digging to close the soil surface with organic mulch and place microbes and fungi under the mulch. It should be borne in mind that not all soil assistants are capable of equally decomposing organic residues. This is due to the fact that organic matter is homogeneous in composition. Grass decomposes much faster than leaves and even more so sawdust. Different types of feed require different eaters. For the decomposition of grass, straw, microbes are needed. Mushrooms are already needed for leaves and sawdust.


How to grow garlic. (About garlic - no secrets. Part 2)

What problems arise when growing this beloved culture in Russia?

Here are a few more recommendations that I cannot agree with because my experience proves otherwise:

2. "It makes no sense to plant teeth with damaged scales, since when they hit the ground, they begin to rot."

It has been tested many times in practice - teeth planted even completely without scales develop normally, just like those planted in a shell.

3. "It is harmful to cover the planting with a thick layer of insulation: the seedlings cannot break through and die." For many years I have been covering plantings of winter garlic with poplar foliage with a layer of 15 cm. Poplar leaves are large and denser (than, for example, on birch or maple). In the spring, "armor" is 3-4 cm thick on the garden bed. But garlic easily breaks through these leaves. It does not push it apart, but pierces it like an awl. Other cultures are not capable of this.

4. "Winter garlic can be propagated in two ways: with chives and air bulbs, and spring garlic can only be propagated with chives." Garlic may become lumpy and non-lumpy depending on conditions. In my practice, arrows grew twice on spring garlic. In 2010, the bulbs did not ripen on spring. But in 2007 they matured. The next year they were planted and gave very small (1-2 cm in diameter) heads. Subsequent reproduction did not lead to anything good - the heads were consistently very small.

5. “Fertilizers for garlic are best applied in liquid form. The roots of garlic going down are often starved due to the fact that all the humus is concentrated at the top. " "Roots do not have the ability to branch."

I do not use any fertilizers or dressings. The soil is not dug up, the most fertile layer is the top five centimeters. Judging by the size of the heads, the garlic is not starving. If you carefully dig in the head and examine the roots, it is easy to see that the roots are not purely string-like, but there are also lateral branches. Perhaps this is the effect of the use of no-till technology.

6. “Before planting, the bulbs should be soaked in water for a day. Pop-ups - delete. " Hydrosorting is desirable not only for bulbs, but also for planting teeth and one-toothed teeth. Once I threw a bowl of large (3-4 cm in diameter) one-tooth into the water. About 10% surfaced. Dense, juicy bulbs to the touch, outwardly no different from the rest. He took off the "shirt" of several - there are no traces of disease. It seems that everything is the same as that of the drowned. Are they really bad? It's a pity to throw out such large one-toothed teeth ... I conducted an experiment: I planted floating bulbs, one-toothed teeth and little teeth on a separate piece of the garden. Result: seedlings no more than 15% of the planted material. The harvest is such that it would be better not to plant. But "swimmers" should not be thrown away - they can be used for food.

7. "For planting, you need to select the largest bulbs, small bulbs will give a small one-tooth." Selection by size should only be made within the same variety. After all, some varieties, for example, "Autumn", give very small bulbs - less than a match head. But then normal one-toothed teeth grow out of them.

8. “Inventive gardeners have come up with an economical way to grow garlic. Before planting, cut the cloves of winter garlic vertically in half so that each half-clove retains an approximately equal part of the bottom. The husk is permissible. The slices are allowed to dry by dusting them with ash. And then they are planted in the same way as whole slices. This economical planting results in heads of garlic of the same size, only the arrow is displaced from the center of the bulb to its edge. "

Twice I tried to grow garlic from chopped cloves (just for fun) - none came up. Although quite a few halves of the teeth remained intact - they seemed to be mummified.

9. From private correspondence: "Do you have a whole team working to collect leaves to cover two hundred square meters of garlic?" For myself, I found a very simple and effective way to collect foliage. During a massive leaf fall, I go to a forest plantation in the field. At this time, a lot of foliage lies on the road. It is very easy to collect foliage from the road: the vegetation does not interfere, and there is no abundance of small twigs, as it happens under the trees. In addition, transport runs on field roads very rarely, you can be sure that the leaves are not stuffed with harmful substances.

10. “You can speed up the work of dividing the bulbs with a small, pointed stick inserted into the center of the bulb.” Quickly dividing the bulbs adapted using a rounded knife. Covering scales can be easily removed. At the same time, the teeth and "shirts" on the teeth are not injured. With the same knife, it is easy to divide the head into teeth.

11. “The books advise you to plant the chives at a shallow depth. But I have developed my own technique: I plant the planting material 30 cm into the soil ”“ You can get large garlic only when planting deep, not smaller than 15 centimeters. With a shallow planting, the heads grow small. " Perhaps these recommendations are suitable for sandy loam soils. For loams and clay, following these tips is a surefire way to go without a crop. This is especially true for dug up clay soil. After watering, such soil is strongly compacted. And it is unlikely that you can then loosen the garden to a depth of 30 centimeters.

12. “It should be borne in mind the instruction of Professor V. I. Edelstein that winter garlic planted in spring grows with a whole bulb, or, as they say, an“ apple ”. I advise all experimenters to keep some of the winter chives until spring and plant them in order to test the possibility of obtaining round bulbs. " I experimented this way for several years. Changed planting dates from late April to late May. Conditions in different years were different. But the output of the one-toothed was extremely small. Less than 5%. More often, heads that are not fully ripe are formed. Quite often they are quite large.

13. "You can't grow good garlic without watering on precipitation alone." Undoubtedly, watering will increase the yield. But in his practice, he received 100-gram heads without watering, even in a dry year. Thanks to the mulch.

14. From private correspondence: “I get 4 kg of garlic per square meter. Landing scheme - 15 × 50 cm. " I wonder: "How much does your head weigh on average?" "100 grams". Perhaps I am not good at math. But with such a planting scheme, 13 plants will be placed on a square meter. This means that in order to obtain such a yield, the heads of garlic must weigh on average 300 grams. Each one. If they are 100 grams each, you get 1.3 kg per square meter. Let's pay close attention to the numbers.

15. “And I do not advise you to plant it denser: once again, one-toothed or bulbs will grow out of one-toothed ones, no larger than them. But when you plant 20x20 cm, you will have the very heads that are 100 grams and ... more. " And further:

When planting the teeth, I make the "distance" 12-15 cm from each other, and between the rows - 50 cm. Would you say, wide? Nothing of the kind, garlic is very picky about light and space. When the planting is thickened, it will hurt, and the heads will grow "puny-skinny".

In my standard 50 cm wide garden bed, I always plant three rows of garlic. That is, a row of rad is 20 cm. I experimented with distances in a row of 15, 20, 30 centimeters between large cloves - the yield is the same. 8 centimeters in a row - the yield is lower than at 15 cm. Everyone should find the optimal planting scheme in their own conditions. Why would the land be empty? For medium and small teeth, the schemes are already different. "Only the largest teeth should be taken for planting" - this is a must for selection. But ... There are several observations.

When cooking, the wife often uses medium heads. For the simple reason that large chives do not fit into the garlic press.

I put a saucer with peeled garlic on the table: large cloves, medium and small. First, the small ones "left", then the medium ones, and the large ones remained lying. The next time, only the remaining large teeth lay on the saucer. But no one touched them. As soon as the change was put in, it was immediately used for its intended purpose.

At the market I sell garlic in bundles (500 grams each). There are several different bundles. In each bundle, the heads are selected of the same size, but their number is different (from 15 to 5 pieces, depending on the weight). The most frequent question from buyers: "How many pieces are there in a bundle?" Take those bundles where there are more pieces. Although I warn you that the weight is the same.

So is it worth chasing very large heads? Perhaps it is better to find conditions under which there will be a greater number of medium and even small heads? After all, even small heads of winter garlic cloves are convenient to clean - there are few of them in the head.


Biological features of garlic

The root system of garlic is fibrous, but individual roots can reach a meter depth. The high stem is false, formed by leaf sheaths of leaf blades. As the plant develops, the lower part of the leaf thickens and forms into fleshy scales. Some of the outer scales, drying out, turn into the integumentary scales of the bulb. Due to the very short internodes, a real stalk of garlic is flattened to a thin bottom. On it are fleshy scales-teeth, closed on top by integumentary scales. Inside the clove there is a bud with one or two growth points and rudimentary leaves. After resting, the teeth germinate into a new plant. Chives are used for food and as a material for vegetative propagation.

The inflorescence of garlic is a simple umbrella, located on a flowering shoot from 0.5 to 1.5 m in height, which is called an arrow. In the inflorescence, sterile flowers and airy bulbs (bulbs) develop, the number of which, depending on the variety, ranges from 10 to 500 pieces. The entire inflorescence of garlic is covered with a dense cover before flowering. Garlic inflorescences form seeds only under strong ultraviolet radiation. Under normal conditions, air bulbs are formed. Ripe bulbs of garlic crumble and sprout with one-toothed bulbs (one-toothed). Sowing a single clove will produce a regular multiple clove garlic bulb. When propagated by bulbs, the culture is considered a two-year-old, that is, in the first year, one-tooth is obtained, and their sowing the next year forms an ordinary multi-clotted garlic bulb.


- How much garlic, grandma? Van Helsing asked.
Three years ago, a Moldovan with the Japanese name Kiosa settled in the village. He began to grow garlic, and then sell it profitably. Garlic from him was bought by his "tribesmen", who kept a sausage factory. I was very skeptical about this bike. It didn’t fit into my head at all that someone could make money on garlic. But I remember the story!

Let's go back to the Moscow region. We always plant a lot of garlic in the country. Usually the harvest is about 400 heads - part of it goes for planting, part of it we give to friends, colleagues and relatives.


The garlic was dug up at the end of July when it bloomed. Photo by the author

Planting two large (1.2 m by 6 m) garlic beds in the fall is already a tradition. For 15 years, the garlic began to slowly degenerate, the heads grew small. Five years ago I bought heels of large heads of Voronezh garlic at a fair. New garlic was planted, it took root. For the fifth year now we have been planting one bed of Voronezh garlic and one bed of ours, local.

Dig the garlic - chase the vampires, Van Helsing thought.
The harvest of garlic was good last season. There was no need to take care of him, he was poured with water a couple of times and once with liquid biofertilizer. We weeded once and forgot. At the end of July, I dug up garlic - the heads turned out to be surprisingly large, 95-115 g.


Control weighing of a head of garlic. 112 g. Photo by the author

About 20 kg of garlic was harvested from the garden. Put to dry on the second floor. While the garlic was getting to the condition, vague thoughts began to bother me ... The presentation of the garlic was better than on the market, as it seemed to me. Here I remembered the Oryol region, the story about Kiosa.


Cut off the tops and put the heads of garlic to dry on the second floor. Photo by the author

You can find a large assortment of various natural fertilizers in our catalog, which combines the offers of many large garden online stores. See a selection of fertilizers without chemicals.


Curious facts about garlic

Due to its unique healing properties, garlic was revered by the inhabitants of most regions where it was cultivated. Many myths, legends and traditions are associated with this unique plant.

  • The Egyptians believed that evil spirits were afraid of the smell of garlic. For this reason, they put his heads in the tomb of Tutankhamun so that otherworldly forces would not bother the pharaoh.
  • Bulgarians attributed mystical properties to the plant. They wore cloves of garlic like beads, believing that this is the best talisman of a sleeping person from being bitten by a vampire in the neck.
  • Czechs hung bunches of white bulbs on the roof of their homes, confident that they could deflect lightning during a thunderstorm.

Garlic is one of the few cultures mentioned in both the Bible and the Qur'an. In the Red Army, it was used as a medicine, as a panacea for all infectious ailments and as a remedy for healing wounds, including purulent ones. For a long time, the Japanese did not add it to food, but used it exclusively for medical purposes. All these facts and legends speak of the most important role of garlic since ancient times in the history and life of mankind.


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