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What are the pros and cons of different ways of watering plants

 What are the pros and cons of different ways of watering plants


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The choice of irrigation method depends on how effective and convenient this process will be. Before purchasing the materials necessary for the system, you should familiarize yourself not only with the advantages, but also with the disadvantages of these methods.

Sprinkling

Sprinkling has many benefits. It is suitable for those who have thick-skinned plants, for example, corn or potatoes, in their garden. Watering in this way prevents waterlogging of the beds, and also reduces the salinity of the soil. When drops fall from a height, the water penetrates deep into the ground. And also, using a similar method, you can deliver the necessary fertilizers to the roots.But the cold water can cause plant leaves to shrink. The main disadvantage of sprinkling is the large amount of water required to moisten a small area. The disadvantage of this method is the high price of sprinkler systems, which quickly fail if the water quality is poor.

With a hose

With prolonged watering with the help of a hose, moisture penetrates into the soil to a depth of 20 - 30 cm. This is enough for many plants, but the ice water shocks them. This is like taking a cold shower after exhausting work.Hose watering should be done in the late evening, when the ground has cooled from the heat of the day, to do less damage to crops. It should be placed on the very surface of the soil, close to the stems. Experienced summer residents recommend making a minimum pressure to prevent soil erosion. Thus, watering will enrich the beds with moisture and cool them.

Root watering

This method is effective, but it is used in small areas, when the owners rarely come to the country. The essence of the method is that the cones are very carefully dug into the root zone, and then filled with liquid. Water will gradually penetrate through small holes, and moisturize plants for a long time. With this method, you can save money, because during the rains, the cones fill up on their own.This method also has disadvantages. In hot weather, the water will evaporate very quickly, and if you close the cones with a lid, then they will not be able to fill after rains. Many are repelled by the cost of the necessary accessories.

Drip irrigation

This is a rather complex system, the essence of which is that water is supplied to the root zone in small drops through tubes with holes. This saves a lot of time and liquid. Special water pipes can be laid directly on the surface of the ground or slightly deepened. Watering is carried out continuously, so the crops receive the necessary moisture constantly.To save as much as possible on watering, you should install a container near the drain from the roof and raise it by 1 m.Then drip tubes from the beds are brought to the barrel and securely attached to its lower part. The container is filled with water, covered with a protective net and left until there is liquid in it. If necessary, fertilizers can be added to the container. The downside of drip irrigation is the high cost of materials and the inability to use poorly treated water, because thin pipes quickly become clogged and become overgrown with salts. If the backyard is located in a swampy area, then moisture will accumulate during watering, which will lead to rotting of the roots.

Subsoil irrigation

Subsoil irrigation is similar to drip irrigation, only the pipes are not located on the surface of the soil, but are completely buried in it. This method is suitable for crops with developed roots. Summer residents noticed that subsurface irrigation negatively affects the growth of the vegetative mass of plants, but significantly increases productivity. This is due to the fact that crops do not need to create a powerful root system and tops, spending nutrients on them.

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Watering

For normal active growth, plants need a constant supply of water.

In temperate climates, soil moisture meets the needs of plants for most of the year. Only on very dry days in spring and summer can plants show signs of lack of water to maintain turgor: they wither, their growth stops. If in the future the plants do not have enough moisture, their leaves curl, turn yellow, and they themselves perish. Therefore, there should always be a supply of water on the site for timely watering of plants.


Water source and pump categories for irrigation

The choice of a pump for watering a garden largely depends on the source of water. This could be:

  • well
  • well
  • river, pond, pool
  • containers and barrels.

In the case of a well and a well, the technical characteristics will be decisive - it is necessary that water with the proper pressure be delivered to the irrigation site. Models - in principle, any. Choose according to your taste.

If we are talking about a river, a pond or a pool, then the requirements for the degree of water pollution are added to the technical characteristics. If the water in the pool can still be considered conditionally clean, then there will be enough pollution in the river or pond, so conventional equipment will not work. In this case, conventional models will not work, since they are designed for clean water. Drainage and garden pumps can pump contaminated water. It is among these categories that it is worth looking for a pump for watering a garden in this case.

Not all pumps are suitable for watering a garden from a river or pond.

When watering from containers and barrels, the task becomes even more interesting. The water in this case is also not clean, so drainage pumps are suitable, but not any, but the least powerful. It's all about the volume of water that can be contained in the barrel. With a high capacity of 200 liters of water, an average power pump will pump out in 1-3 minutes. During this time, you will have time to water quite a bit, but there is no more water. Therefore, the best in this case are the least powerful (they are also the cheapest). Only when buying, pay attention that the pump comes with a float water level sensor. If there is very little water left, this sensor will turn off the power.

Some companies produce special pumps for barrels. They are just notable for their low productivity and the ability to pump polluted water, have small dimensions and weight, but at a price more expensive than similar drainages. But the barrel pump for watering the garden is compact and lightweight.

The pump for watering a garden from a barrel Karcher SBP 3800 pleases everyone, except for the price

By the way, solving the problem with quickly running out of water in a barrel is easy. There are usually several of them on the site. Slightly above the bottom level, you can weld the fittings with the taps and connect all the barrels with pipes. So it will be possible to pump water from all barrels without shifting the hose.


Features of planting a tree

Plum needs certain conditions for successful growth. The main requirements include the following:

  • The culture is sensitive to moisture deficiency, so it is advisable to select a place for it in the low-lying part of the garden. But at the same time, wetlands should not be used.
  • The tree needs a lot of sunlight.
  • It is advisable to place the plant along the fence from the side illuminated by the sun.
  • For draining, a loamy soil with a shallow location of groundwater is required - 1–1.2 m.
  • Planting can be done both in the spring (before bud break) and in the fall (until mid-October). But in the northern regions, it is recommended to give preference to the first option.

    Important! Plum does not have high frost resistance, therefore, when planting in spring before the onset of the cold period, it manages to get stronger.

    Plums need a sunny area with moist soil

    Criteria for the selection of planting material:

  • An annual or biennial plant with a main guide and at least three lateral shoots is used as a seedling.
  • You should also pay attention to the roots. Plants are suitable for planting in which this part has a length of at least 35–40 cm. The root system should not have sagging and outgrowths.
  • In a healthy tree, the stem height reaches 50 cm, the thickness is 2 cm, and the size of skeletal shoots is 50-60 cm.

    In order not to damage the seedlings during transportation, their root system is wrapped with a damp cloth and then with polyethylene material. Regardless of the planting time, it is advisable to dig the plum to a depth of 50 cm. In the pit, the plant is placed at an angle. The root system and 20 cm of the trunk above the root collar are sprinkled with soil.

    Tula black is planted in loamy soil

    The planting process is as follows:

  • Preparatory work begins in the fall or early spring 2 weeks before planting. The site is dug to the depth of a shovel bayonet and 7–8 kg of humus, 50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt per 1 m2 are introduced into the soil. In this case, you need to cover an area within a radius of 2 m from the landing site.
  • For plums, prepare a pit 60 cm deep and 70 cm wide.
  • The top soil layer about 30 cm thick is mixed with two buckets of peat, the same amount of compost, 300 g of superphosphate and 80 g of potassium sulfate. The resulting mixture is filled with a pit by 2/3 of the volume.
  • A peg is driven in the center of the recess.
  • Before planting a plant, you need to inspect it. If damaged or dry roots are found on the plum, they should be trimmed.
  • Then the seedling is placed in a hole and sprinkled with soil. At the same time, the roots are well straightened, and the root collar is placed 7 cm above the surface.
  • The soil near the seedling is compacted, then a circular hole is made at a distance of 30–40 cm and the plant is watered with 20–30 liters of water.
  • After absorbing moisture, the soil around the trunk is mulched with rotted manure, humus or peat with a layer of up to 10 cm.
  • The seedling is fixed to the peg by means of twine.
  • When planting several trees, they are placed every 3 m, and a distance of 4 m is left between the rows.

    Video: practical tips for planting plums


    BBQ placement options

    As mentioned above, the barbecue should be outdoors. But in order to make the zone "all-weather", in the immediate vicinity or above it there must be a roof that will protect the recreation area not only from precipitation, but also from the sun. How this can be done in practice:

    • Make a flat area of ​​non-combustible materials next to the gazebo or covered terrace for installing a portable or mobile barbecue.
    • Allocate an outdoor barbecue area on the terrace. The terrace can be partially covered, and for the open one it is possible to provide the possibility of installing an awning or umbrella over the dining area.
    • Use a forged (or welded) wood / coal grill with a barbecue function, which has its own visor in the design. Such models are sold as standard, but can be made to order. Some of the factory samples even have a pair of wheels that allow you to remove the barbecue in a utility block or shed.
    • Build a garden fireplace near the gazebo or terrace. It is shaped like a traditional brick or stone stove with a firebox large enough to fit a barbecue grate. And for outdoor cooking, a visor can be made above the working area.
    • Build a gazebo or a covered terrace with your own kitchenette, in which to provide for the possibility of setting up a barbecue. It can be in any design - built-in, free-standing or mobile. It is important that the barbecue area is ventilated, the distances to combustible materials are in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements, and the materials of the canopy over the barbecue are non-combustible. And the wood-burning hearths should have a closed firebox with a chimney, like a stove or a garden fireplace. Alternatively, you can equip the same area under the canopy of an extension next to the house or bathhouse.


    Seedling care

    When planting young honeysuckle in a permanent place, it should be remembered that this plant has only recently entered culture. Therefore, the main task of the gardener is to create conditions close to the natural habitat of honeysuckle. It is better to choose a place that is slightly shaded, where the sun appears for about half a day. It is recommended to plant the plant away from paths and common areas.

    Honeysuckle is very difficult to tolerate transplantation and any damage to the roots. Therefore, it is better to prepare the pit in advance, and transfer the seedling to a new place already during the dormant period (after the leaves fall and before the buds awaken). After planting, the plant is watered abundantly and the near-stem circle is immediately mulched with cut grass. The mulch is renewed periodically. Weeding with a hoe, loosening and digging for at least the first five years, until the bush grows properly, is undesirable. Pruning is also not carried out until the age of four. Then you can adjust the height of the bush, thin out the crown and remove old and dead branches.

    Honeysuckle is an interesting and useful plant that does not require careful maintenance, difficult pruning and fertilization. Perhaps, it will appeal to supporters of organic farming. Traditionalists will have to get used to the fact that honeysuckle cannot stand bare soil. Take a closer look at the plant, do not disregard it, and then even in a capricious touchy person you will be able to see just a timid forest beauty.


    Why is vertical gardening good?

    Due to the variety of colors, shapes of climbing and climbing plants, colors and textures of their leaves, as well as the ability to easily give in to pruning and shaping, it is possible to embody a wide variety of design projects.

    Some of the main advantages of this type of landscaping include:

    • Maximum decorativeness in a small area. Vertical gardening is an affordable way of decorating buildings, structures and other unsightly utility rooms, as well as creating a unique memorable look of structures. Thanks to the use of climbing and climbing plants, it is possible to increase the green area several times while maintaining the size of the site.
    • Easy to care for. Plants for vertical gardening are easy to care for: eliminating the need for weeding and mulching the soil, weed control.
    • Thermal regulation. Plants act as a curtain of the building: by reflecting the thermal rays of the sun, they protect its walls from excessive heating. Climbing and climbing plants reduce the penetration of polluted air and dust into the room.

    This allows vertical gardening plants to be used to create cozy corners in the garden, protected from the sun, noise and wind.

    Living paintings can be called a new trend in landscape design. Read about it: https://diz-cafe.com/ideas/zhivye-kartiny.html


    Tomato Anastasia

    Anastasia tomato variety is suitable for growing in a greenhouse or open field, gives high yields. Changes in the weather, harsh climatic conditions are not terrible for him, but care must be organized correctly. Read about the history of the variety, the order of its reproduction, planting, harvest time in this review.

    Breeding history of the variety

    Anastasia's selection was bred by domestic specialists in 1998. In the State Register, it is included as a variety for growing in open ground, greenhouse shelters. Plum tomatoes are popular among connoisseurs of their respective varieties. The culture grows best in warm southern regions.

    Description of tomato Anastasia

    Anastasia tomatoes begin to bear fruit within 3 months after planting. The selection has a high yield, it practically does not depend on climatic conditions, but the quality of care (watering, feeding) is very important. The variety is practically not susceptible to fungal diseases.

    The bush is determinant, in open ground it usually grows up to 70 cm in height, in a greenhouse up to 1 m. Due to its compact size, pinching is not required, which allows gardeners to save time and effort.

    Description of fruits

    Let's give the characteristics, description of the fruits of the tomato variety Anastasia:

    • round shape
    • skin color burgundy red
    • the weight of one tomato is about 130 g, the size is medium
    • the number of fruits on a branch is from 2 to 4, sometimes up to 6.

    Variety characteristics

    Judging by the reviews, Anastasia's tomato is unpretentious in care and gives good yields. Consider the characteristics of the variety, the features of fruiting in more detail.

    Productivity and fruiting

    Tomato Anastasia belongs to early hybrids, the vegetable reaches full biological maturity after 100-110 days of the planting field. Productivity is high, maturation in the greenhouse can be faster than in the ground. With proper care, 20-25 kg of fruits are harvested from one meter of sowing. The yield of Anastasia's tomato falls most often due to a lack of moisture and nutrients. It is important to maintain a balance - an excess of fertilizing is just as harmful as a lack of them; on swampy soils, the root system begins to rot.

    Scope of the fruit

    In cooking, Anastasia tomatoes can be used both fresh and for conservation. Salads, stews are made with tomatoes, they are served as a whole. Preservation methods are used in different ways. Drying, freezing is possible.

    Disease and pest resistance

    Anastasia tomatoes, like most other varieties, have a high resistance to diseases. They can be struck by:

    • late blight
    • tobacco mosaic.

    Weakened crops, young seedlings are at risk. It is important to follow the care rules for Anastasia tomato and carry out preventive treatments, which do not give a 100% guarantee of preventing infection, but significantly reduce the risks. Inspect shrubs regularly and provide proper systematic maintenance.

    Advantages and disadvantages of the variety

    Consider all the pros and cons of the variety. Pros:

    1. Simple care - the minimum list of activities is sufficient. Anastasia tomatoes calmly tolerate a lack of moisture, low air temperatures.
    2. Rapid growth - young plants quickly reach 70 cm in height, the composition of the soil is not important (for growth - crops bear fruit better on nutritious soils).
    3. High yield - Anastasia tomato forms many clusters with several fruits.
    4. Disease resistance - of course, hybrids also get sick, but much less often than conventional varieties.

    The variety has no serious flaws. To prevent branches of medium thickness from breaking under the weight of the fruit, it is recommended to tie them up. Do not keep ripe tomatoes on bushes.

    Growing rules

    "Anastasia" is first grown by seedlings, and then transferred to open ground. Planting time for seedlings is March-April.

    Planting seedlings

    Use seeds - dry or pre-soaked. The second method is more preferable, since the prepared planting material germinates better. Examine the seeds, filter out the defective ones. For soaking, make a solution with salt - 40 g per 1 liter of water. Paper napkins are placed on the bottom of the container, the top is closed with a lid. Processing time is 20 hours.

    The soil will need to be prepared in advance - buy a potting mix or mix the turf with humus yourself. To improve lightness, increase looseness, peat with sawdust is introduced. You can place the seedlings in the coconut substrate, in this case the soil is mixed with the chopped fiber of the plant (coconut prevents rotting).

    Anastasia uses pots or boxes no more than 10 cm deep as a container for planting tomatoes. The seeds are immersed in a couple of centimeters, sprinkled and spilled, covered with foil, placed in a warm room. When shoots appear, the boxes will need to be moved to a well-lit place - crops grow much slower without the sun. Water it sparingly to avoid waterlogging.

    Tomato transplant

    The time of transfer of seedlings to the ground depends on the climate; it is better to do this in the evening and morning hours. The average transplant period is the end of May. A solution of vitriol or copper oxychloride is preliminarily introduced into the soil. Too much fertilizer is not used - a liter will be enough per square meter. It is also recommended to use humus, sawdust, peat. After applying top dressing, the soil is dug up and leveled with a rake. Digging depth should not be more than 35 cm. To disinfect the soil, the site can be spilled with boiling water.

    Seedlings are plunged vertically into the ground. At the same time, the stem should be above the ground, only the roots sink into the ground. Spaces of 60 cm are left between the bushes - more thickened plantings do not grow well, their yield decreases. The landing is done in two rows. When you are finished replanting the seedlings, move on to installing the garter pegs. The optimum height is 1 m.

    Follow-up care

    In reviews about tomato Anastasia, gardeners write that the culture is easy to care for and grateful, but competent care is still needed. A pick is made after a couple of leaves appear - the plants are placed in warm, well-lit places. The seedlings are transferred to the ground only when the threat of recurrent frosts has passed.

    With greenhouse cultivation, the risks of damage to Anastasia tomatoes by rot, late blight is higher than in open ground. As a preventive measure, do mulching. Harvest regularly during the period of active fruiting. If you do this less often 1-2 times a week, the fruits will start to deteriorate, and the branches will break off. Watering is recommended in the morning or evening in order to avoid burns of green parts of plants. Follow the simple recommendations indicated - and you will get beautiful delicious Anastasia tomatoes, as in the photo.

    Pest and disease control

    Anastasia variety is hybrid, has good immunity against fungal and viral diseases. Naturally, this does not mean that the plant cannot be infected. Weak tomatoes or crops grown without following the rules of agricultural technology are more likely to get sick. Provide proper care to prevent infections:

    • regular moderate watering
    • humidity control in the greenhouse (ventilation is needed)
    • soil mulching
    • timely removal of infected plant parts (it is advisable to burn them)
    • autumn sanitary cleaning (leaves, fruits are removed, burned)
    • regular inspection of bushes for signs of infection.

    To combat diseases, use a solution of copper sulfate, Topaz, Bordeaux liquid, saltpeter. Chemical preparations cannot be used a month before the harvest. You can manually remove the affected plant parts.

    Conclusion

    Anastasia tomato variety grows no more than 1 m in height (in greenhouses - less in the open field), quickly bears fruit, requires minimal maintenance. The hybrid has good resistance to fungal diseases, but the risks of infection cannot be completely ruled out. The variety loves bright sun, with high humidity it begins to bear fruit worse. The timing of the transfer of seedlings to the ground is the end of May.


    Watch the video: Watering Houseplants from the Bottom: Why and How


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