How to independently adjust the entrance metal-plastic door
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In modern private construction, doors from a metal-plastic profile are becoming increasingly popular. They can be of various sizes, configurations and colors. Metal-plastic doors are distinguished by their beautiful appearance, lightness, wide possibilities of taking into account the individual wishes of the developer. They retain heat well, protect against noise and are reliable in operation. However, over time, it becomes necessary to adjust such doors. It is quite possible to do it yourself, without resorting to the services of specialists.
Arrangement of entrance metal-plastic doors
The design of metal-plastic doors depends on their type.
Types of entrance metal-plastic doors
There are several types of entrance doors:
- sliding ones are two canvases that travel along guides in different directions. Most often, they are equipped with an automatic opening system that is triggered by pressing the feet on the platform in front of the door. The advantages of this design are space saving in the open position and no need to use hands when opening. Disadvantages - complexity and high cost;
- folding consists of several canvases that fold when opened. They are often called accordions. Such doors also save space, have a lower price than sliding doors, but their thermal insulation is lower due to the presence of several joints of the sheets;
- swing (single and double) open in the direction to or from the incoming, i.e. forward or backward. This is the most common type of metal-plastic entrance doors. They are reliable in operation, have good sound and heat insulation and an optimal price-quality ratio.
Photo gallery: types of entrance metal-plastic doors
General features of the device and characteristics of entrance metal-plastic doors
The operational qualities of metal-plastic doors depend on the materials that are used in their manufacture.
Reinforced-plastic doors are made of a PVC profile, into which an armature is inserted - a galvanized steel profile pipe, which gives the door structure the necessary strength. The profile consists of chambers, which can be from 3 to 7. Its system depth (thickness) is from 60 to 86 mm. The profile can be colored. This is done by adding paint with a protective decorative coating to the original composition or by gluing a special film. The best metal-plastic profiles are produced by Schuco, Rehau, Veka, KBE, Aluplast.
The profile that is used for the manufacture of metal-plastic doors can have from three to seven chambers
The main part of the door leaf is occupied by a double-glazed window or an opaque sandwich panel filler. A glass unit can have one or two chambers, i.e. two or three glasses. Glass thickness - 4–6 mm. It can be coated with energy-saving silver ion spraying. The principle of operation of such spraying is that it reflects thermal radiation and returns it to the room. For this purpose, the space between the panes can also be filled with an inert gas. From the inside, a double-glazed window can be covered with an armored film, which prevents the glass from crumbling upon impact and prevents intruders from entering the room. The consumer qualities of metal-plastic doors can be improved by tinting and reflective films. The former allow you to make the door glass colored, and the latter - opaque.
To improve the sound and heat insulating properties of the doors, a seal is placed around the entire perimeter of the profile. The best sealant in terms of price-quality ratio is made of EPDM - ethylene-propylene rubber. This material is resistant to temperature extremes, mechanical stress, precipitation and ultraviolet light.
One of the most important elements of metal-plastic doors is fittings. The best quality fittings are supplied by Siegenia-Aubi, Maco, GU, Winkhaus, Axor Industry, Roto. It is different for each type of door. Therefore, we will talk more about the fittings below.
The most common type of door is swing... We will talk about them later in this article.
For the manufacture of entrance metal-plastic doors, components are used that have increased strength and reliability:
- profile with a large wall thickness (front wall not less than 3.0 mm);
- reinforced metal reinforcement (not less than 2.0 mm);
- hinges that support heavy weight and are designed for frequent opening and closing;
- lock with several points of closure;
- high-strength push-fit sets that can withstand a large number of opening-closing cycles;
- the possibility of longitudinal and lateral adjustment ("three-point hanging");
- low aluminum threshold (no more than 25 mm) for ease of use and protection from drafts thanks to the double sealing circuit.
Types of metal-plastic doors
Hinged metal-plastic doors are of the following types (GOST 30970-2002):
- single-leaf (single-leaf) with external or internal opening;
- double-leafed (double-leafed) with shtulpovy or bezopostny vestibule. Such doors allow most of the time to use them as single-leaf, and if necessary, open the second leaf;
- bipartite with vertical impost.
Reinforced-plastic doors consist of the following structural elements.
- Door frame (box).
- Door leaf (sash) with translucent or non-translucent filling.
Hinged metal-plastic doors consist of a door frame, door leaf and fittings (hinges, handles, locks, etc.)
To ensure the rigidity of the structure, after cutting the reinforcing profile, the welded corner connectors are pressed in. Bolt ties are installed in the upper and lower connections on the hinge side.
Elements of fittings for metal-plastic doors
For the adjustment of metal-plastic doors, fittings are mainly used. The elements of the fittings include:
- closers. The closer is a mechanical device that automatically closes open doors. Due to the application of the optimal force, the closer reduces the wear of the blade and fittings, and also ensures a tight pressure on the seal along the entire contour;
- loops. Designed for fastening the door leaf to the frame. They are hinged mechanisms and provide opening and closing of doors;
- doorknobs. Serve for ease of opening, and also control the lock and door;
- locks. They are used to keep doors closed. In metal-plastic doors, mechanical mortise locks are usually used;
- striking plates. They are mounted on the end part of the box and serve to improve the sash adhesion to it;
- profile cylinders. An integral part of the castle, which ensures its secrecy. The cylinder can be turned in the lock body when only its own key is inserted into the hole;
- latches. They are used to lock the metal-plastic door from the inside, and also ensure the operation of the double-leaf door mechanism. They have no elements of secrecy. They are a bolt, placed in the body and having a handle, and a latch that holds it in one of the extreme positions.
High-quality fittings for metal-plastic doors ensure their reliable operation and resistance to burglary
Types of malfunctions of metal-plastic doors
The main external signs of a malfunction of metal-plastic doors are the following defects in their work:
- the leaf opens and closes with force and touches the frame;
- the handle of the lock turns poorly and does not open completely. Therefore, you have to apply force to open the door;
- the handle is very loose;
- when the doors are closed, a flow of cold air is felt.
To prevent gross violations of door operation, there are special methods for identifying potential problems:
- doors require immediate adjustment if the seal is jammed. To prevent its damage, the seal must be pre-lubricated with silicone grease;
- open the doors slightly and leave them in this position. A working door will not move. If there is a bias, then spontaneous opening or closing will occur. When carrying out diagnostics in this way, it is important that there are no air currents or movement of people, which can affect the result of the experiment;
If in the slightly open position the door leaf does not spontaneously move, then the door is installed without skewing
- you can use the graphical method. It requires a pencil and rag to apply it. We stand on the side of the door, which is opposite to the direction of its opening, close it and draw a line with a pencil along the entire perimeter of the door leaf close to the box, using it as a ruler. Then we open the door. The line and edges of the door leaf must be parallel. By deviations, one can judge whether there is a bias, how strong it is and in which direction it is directed;
- the uniformity of pressing the canvas to the box is checked as follows: we take a sheet of paper and by closing the door we clamp it between the canvas and the box, pull it out and mentally fix the force with which we did it. We insert the sheet in another place and repeat the experiment. If the effort does not change, then everything is in order, if it is different everywhere, then adjustment is necessary.
It is important to adjust the fittings seasonally. In winter, the abutment of the canvas to the box must be maximized to prevent the penetration of cold air. In the summer, it must be loosened, since a strong abutment contributes to strong wear of the fittings and the seal.
Tools for adjusting metal-plastic doors
The following tools are required to adjust the doors:
- hex keys 3–6 mm or sprocket keys. They are used to adjust door hinges;
- straight and Phillips screwdrivers for moving hooks, adjusting anchors, dismantling and installing fittings. If the volume of work is large, then you can use a screwdriver;
- pliers. Sometimes the clamping of the sash is adjusted with pliers, the pin of the upper hinge is removed, other work is performed;
- oiler. With its help, the fittings are lubricated;
- scissors. They cut the sealant.
In addition to general-purpose tools, there are special professional devices:
- spatula for unpacking. It is used when installing and dismantling double-glazed windows, as well as spacer inserts when adjusting the geometric shape of the sash by unpacking;
- handle for removing the loops. With its help, the hinge pin is removed;
- spinning hammer. It has rubber or polymer pads. With its help, glazing beads are installed that secure double-glazed windows;
- special knife or chisel. They are used for dismantling glazing beads.
Works that are carried out with the help of professional tools should be trusted only by specialists with sufficient experience in the repair of metal-plastic structures. Otherwise, they may be damaged or even broken.
Photo gallery: tools with which to adjust metal-plastic doors
Types of door leaf position adjustment
There are the following types of door adjustment made of metal-plastic:
- pressure adjustment.
This uses special screws installed in the hinges. Each hinge has three to four screws that are responsible for certain types of adjustment.
Horizontal adjustment refers to the movement of the door leaf parallel to the top and bottom of the jamb. The basis for such an alignment is the sagging of the web, due to which it is skewed. As a result, when closing, the door clings to the upward vertical part of the box from the side of the handle and to the threshold in its part opposite the supporting post. The leaf can also be rubbed over the entire vertical part of the door frame as a result of thermal expansion. In the first situation, by means of adjustment, the door is pressed against the rack, on which there are hinges only in the upper part, and in the second, along the entire length.
Depending on the task to be solved, only the top hinge or all three canopies are used. When adjusting hinges from different manufacturers, different hexagons are used, but most often a 4 mm wrench is required. The hinges have hex holes. The adjusting screw we need is located horizontally.
- Open the door, insert the hexagon into the groove and rotate it. When turned clockwise, the sash is attracted to the hinge, and the bottom of the door on the opposite side of the hinge is lifted. If the rotation is counterclockwise, the sash moves away from the hinge and the lower edge of the door leaf, located on the side opposite the hinge, is lowered.
- If we are dealing with a bias, then this is where the work ends. If it is necessary to eliminate the consequences of thermal expansion, then the operation is repeated on the middle and lower loops.
Horizontal adjustment of the metal-plastic door allows you to eliminate the sagging and rubbing of the door leaf
During horizontal adjustment, the door leaf can be displaced by 2–5 mm, depending on the hardware manufacturer.
Adjustment of the vertical position of the metal-plastic door leaf is carried out when the door rubs against the threshold along its entire length. In this case, there is no skew. The reason lies in incorrect initial installation or thermal expansion. In this situation, the door is simply raised. To carry out the work, we use the screw located at the bottom end of all hinges. If you adjust only one hinge, the door will quickly sag. Therefore, first remove the cap from the hinge, and then rotate the adjusting hexagon (4 or 6 mm). If this is done clockwise, the door rises, counter-clockwise, lowers. The adjustment stroke is from +5 to -2 mm (most often from +2 to -2 mm) and depends on the brand of fittings.
Vertical adjustment of the metal-plastic door allows you to raise the door leaf and eliminate its friction against the threshold
Sash pressure adjustment
The problem of blowing through the door is solved by adjusting the clamping of the door leaf to the frame. To check the need for this operation, open the door, insert a sheet of paper between the frame and the door leaf and close the door. Next, take out the sheet. If it came out freely or broke, then adjustment should be made. Under normal conditions, the sheet should be pulled out with force. There are two pressure mechanisms, one on the handle side and one on the hinge side.
Adjusting the pressure on the handle side
On the side of the handle, the pressure is changed by means of three eccentrics located at the end of the door. For different manufacturers, eccentrics are turned with a hex key ("asterisk") or a special adjusting key (pliers). To increase the degree of pressing the door to the frame, the eccentric must be rotated clockwise, to loosen it - counterclockwise. In this case, the eccentrics go behind the pressure pads, which are located on the frame.The degree of pressing is determined by the risk located on the eccentric. If it points to the seal, the pressure is stronger, if in the opposite direction, it is weaker.
The degree of pressing the door leaf is determined by the position of the risks on the eccentric
Adjusting the pressure on the hinge side
Adjusting the pressure of the leaf to the door frame from the side of the hinges complements and improves the pressure from the side of the handle. From the side of the hinges, it is performed with a hexagon. Pulling out the tongue on the door leaf causes the leaf to be pressed against the frame. It is carried out by moving the hexagon counterclockwise (for left hinges) and clockwise (for right hinges).
To adjust the pressure, you can change the position of the striker plates, which are located on the door frame. For this, they have adjusting screws.
The door leaf is pressed against the frame from the side of the upper end of the hinge
Video: Roto Hinge Adjustment Techniques
Adjusting the buttonhole pressure
The hinge clamping further improves the tightness of the door. To carry out the adjustment, it is necessary to remove the cap from the screw, which is perpendicular to the plane of the door, and rotate it using a hexagon. Turning clockwise increases the pressure, against - weakens. This adjustment is not available on every fittings.
High-quality clamping of the hinges improves the performance properties of the metal-plastic door
However, the largest manufacturers of fittings for metal-plastic windows and doors offer products that have the maximum possible number of adjustments.
Roto hardware ensures high-quality work of metal-plastic doors due to the maximum number of adjustments
Video: ways to adjust a metal-plastic door
Adjustment of the handle of the metal-plastic door
Adjusting the handle is fairly straightforward compared to other operations. The main malfunction of the handle is its loosening.
The adjustment procedure is as follows.
- There is a plastic cap at the base of the handle. Pull it towards you and rotate it 90 degrees.
- We tighten the screws under the cap.
The handle is adjusted by tightening the screws under the cap
- We return the cap to its original position.
If that doesn't work, then there is a crack in the handle body. Such a handle cannot be repaired; it must be replaced.
Replacing the seal in the metal-plastic door
The sealant largely determines the thermal insulating qualities of metal-plastic doors.
Types of seals
There are several types of seals that differ in their consumer qualities.
Table: types of seals for metal-plastic doors
|No. p p||Name||Characteristics|
|1||TPE (thermoplastic elastomer)||It is a modified rubber. It is convenient in the production of metal-plastic products, since its laying lends itself well to automation, fireproof, but hardens already at a temperature of -20 oC. Its wear resistance is low|
|2||Vulcanized rubber||In fact, it is rubber. It insulates well, elastic, but wear resistance is also low|
|3||EPDM (ethylene propylene rubber)||Resistant to temperature extremes, mechanical stress, precipitation, ultraviolet light, temperature changes (up to -40 oC). The best ratio of price and quality. It is used by leading companies in the production of metal-plastic structures, for example, Rehau|
|4||VMQ (silicone rubber)||Very resistant to temperature extremes, precipitation, elastic, but quite expensive|
German seals are designed for 10 years. Turkish and Asian - no more than 5.
Seals are removable and glued. Removable, of course, is better - it is easier to change them, but with a certain ingenuity, you can also replace glued ones.
There are no universal seals for all types of profiles. Each major profile manufacturer uses a seal of a certain configuration.
Each gasket profile should only be used in the products of the respective company.
When to replace the seal
The seal must be replaced if:
- its damage is noticeable;
- the wind is walking around the apartment;
- noise began to penetrate from the street;
- condensation has formed on the glass;
- frost appeared between the door leaf and the frame.
The main sign of the need to replace the seal is its loose fit to the profile
Calculation of the amount of sealant
When calculating the amount of seal required for replacement, it should be taken into account that a double-circuit seal is mainly used, since the seal is located both on the sash and on the frame. Add 10-20% to the measured length for the margin. TPE and VMQ gaskets are cut into lengths along the length of the profile sides, EPDM products are installed in one piece - they bend well at the corners.
Tools and materials
To replace the seal in a metal-plastic door, you need:
- sealant of appropriate length;
- silicone glue;
- glue gun (preferred);
- soft, lint-free cloth.
Procedure for replacing the seal
The seal is changed by the sequential implementation of the following actions.
- The old seal is being dismantled. This is done in two ways: with scissors we pry the seal from the edge and remove it from the grooves or pull it in the middle.
Careful dismantling of the old seal allows you to qualitatively prepare a place for a new one
- The surface is cleaned for installation. The profile and especially the groove are washed with soapy water, degreased and wiped with a cloth.
The profile and grooves must be well cleaned of grease and dirt
- The corners of the profile are glued. Various types of glue are suitable for this: construction, silicone, PVA, "Moment", etc.
- The seal is inserted into the grooves, the excess part is cut off. In the corners, the seal is pressed in order to better adhere.
The seal is inserted into the grooves and pressed to ensure a tight contact when gluing
In order for a new seal to serve for a long time, it requires proper care:
- windows should be washed at least twice a year, including the gasket. The cleaning solution must be free of hard particles and grease;
- contact with paint, varnish, acids, alkalis is not allowed;
- windows should not freeze, normal humidity should be maintained in the room;
- if the apartment is being renovated and there is a lot of dust in the air, then the window must be kept closed so that dust does not fall on the seal;
- periodically the sealant must be lubricated with silicone solution or glycerin.
Video: replacing the seal on a metal-plastic door
Lubrication of metal-plastic door mechanisms
The mechanisms of a metal-plastic door require constant maintenance, in particular, lubrication. If you hear a creak and gnash when using the door, then it must be lubricated. The main lubrication points are hinges, lock, handle, locking fittings.
Regular lubrication ensures long and trouble-free operation of the metal-plastic door
The better to lubricate the door mechanisms
Machine oil is often used to lubricate the door. However, we recommend specialized professional lubricants that are better suited for metal-plastic doors and ensure their trouble-free operation. These products include, first of all, WD-40 grease. It is made on a silicone base and comes in the form of a liquid and a spray. For practical use, the spray is more convenient. You can also use Hi-Gear silicone lubricants in the form of an aerosol, Liqui Moly or Lock spray.
WD-40 grease will provide reliable maintenance of metal-plastic door mechanisms
Lubrication is best done in summer: for example, in winter, the lubricant can harden, in autumn it will quickly be washed off by rain, and in spring the weather often changes.
Hinges are lubricated in the following order.
- Remove the hinge covers.
- We remove dust and dirt.
- We spray the silicone compound so that it gets inside the hinges.
- We open and close the door several times so that the grease is evenly distributed over the mechanism.
- We remove excess grease that could get on the profile with a cloth.
- We put the lining on the hinges.
Hinge lubrication eliminates squeaking when opening and closing doors
For proper operation of a quality lock, lubrication is almost not required. Good metal is used in such locks, so the space inside the cylinder lock cylinder remains clean for a long time. However, currently not all locks are of good quality, so most products require more frequent lubrication.
In no case should you just pour grease into the well. It will mix with dirt, metal residues, then the lock will stop working altogether. First, fill in the cleaning agent in such an amount that it can drain freely. We recommend the ASSA Lock cleaner as a cleaning agent. The same company produces Lock spray lubricant. After processing, we turn the key several times in the larva. Then we pour a little lubricant into the well. We use the same lubricants as for the hinges.
Lubrication of the handle and locking fittings
Use the same agents to lubricate the handle as for the hinges and lock. First of all, we pull back and rotate the plastic cap under the handle by 90 degrees, unscrew the fastening bolts, take out the handle and pour grease into the hole. We assemble in the reverse order.
No disassembly is required to lubricate the fittings. There are holes along the entire perimeter of the door end face, leading to the moving parts of the door locking mechanism. Grease is poured through them.
Understanding the structure of an entrance metal-plastic door, its types, components and features of the fittings creates a reliable basis for understanding the ways of adjusting it. Knowing the signs of certain malfunctions allows you to accurately diagnose the problems that have arisen and take the necessary actions to eliminate them. Adjusting the door leaf, hinges and pressure mechanism, and, if necessary, replacing the seal and lubrication will bring the door into proper technical condition, after which it will function for a long time, ensuring the comfort and safety of your home.
Doors for a wardrobe: step-by-step instructions for calculating, assembling and installing with your own hands (Photo & Video)
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Do-it-yourself repair and adjustment of a balcony door - step-by-step instructions with photos and descriptions
A plastic balcony door is a reliable and durable structure, but no matter how high-quality and reliable the structure is, it still requires periodic repairs. Most of the faults with the presence of a minimum number of tools can be performed independently, but there are works that only an experienced specialist can handle.
In this article, we will figure out what types of work you can do yourself, and which ones you can entrust to an experienced craftsman.
In what cases it is necessary to contact a specialist
Do-it-yourself repair of a balcony door is not possible in the following cases:
- Cracked profile. Initially, it is necessary to assess the size of the breakdown, and only then make a decision on calling the master. If the crack is through or its size exceeds 1 mm, then it is worth calling a specialist (you may even need to replace the balcony door), but if the glazing bead is cracked, then you can handle it yourself.
- In case of damage to glass windows. Do-it-yourself repair of broken window panes of a plastic balcony door is impossible due to the fact that in all plastic structures inside the glass units there is air or inert gas for tightness. For these types of work, it is worth calling the master to take measurements of the double-glazed window and make an application for the manufacture of a similar one. there is a possibility of making a mistake in the measurements, and secondly, most companies measure and install as a gift for the purchase of a double-glazed window.
- Damage to fittings. The first step is to measure the amount of damage. For example, a balcony handle or lock can be repaired independently, while broken slats of the ventilation or leveling mechanism from the canopy profile can only be performed by a specialist.
Replacing a broken handle
If the balcony handle is out of order or replacement is required, then the order of work is as follows:
- It is necessary to turn the decorative plastic cover. To do this, slightly pull the cover towards you and turn it to the right or left and set it in a horizontal position.
- Using a screwdriver, unscrew the two screws.
- We take out the screws and remove the handle.
- Install the new handle in place of the old one. It is worth noting that when we removed the old handle, it was in a horizontal position, therefore, we install the new handle in a horizontal position as well. We turn the handle to a horizontal position, move the decorative cover aside, insert it into the hole and tighten it with screws.
- We put the decorative cover back in place. Installation completed.
Replacing the lock
A situation may arise that the handle has rotated 360 degrees, thereby breaking the gear that moves the bar on which the pins are located. In this situation, it is necessary to change the entire bar.
Instructions for replacing the lock in the balcony door:
- The first step is to determine what kind of lock it is in order to order a new one. All the necessary information (the name of the fittings and the specification) is located on the bar. Can be purchased at any company that sells plastic windows and fittings.
- It is necessary to move all pins on the metal bar to the open position, that is, to install in the middle.
- We unscrew all the screws on the bar and remove the handle according to the instructions above.
- We remove the roller and the microlift (handle opening lock).
- We remove the bar itself.
- We take a new bar. The lock is initially locked for transport protection. To unlock, you need to carefully break off the teeth with a screwdriver (see the picture below).
- We install a new strip on the door leaf. The first fixation is made on the balcony handle (the handle must be in the open position).
- Next, carefully hammer in the clips that fix the bar.
- We tighten all the elements that were removed during dismantling. It may happen that when installing a new strap, the answers for the trunnions and the latch will not match. In this case, all these elements must be reset at the desired level. At this, the repair can be considered complete. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video instructions below, everything is considered in a more detailed form with consideration of the nuances.
Instructions for replacing glass on a balcony door:
- Remove the glazing beads using a chisel, thin spatula or knife. First long, then the rest in order.
- Then, using a riving knife or any other suitable tool, carefully pull out the glass.
- Next, insert the glass and put the support pads as in the diagram below.
- We carefully close the door and if no rubbing occurs, we hammer in the glazing beads, if there is rubbing, then it is necessary to additionally adjust, it may be necessary to additionally report the support pads, in some places two at once are possible.
Eliminate wiping, misalignment and sagging
If the door sags and rubbing occurs, then there are two methods of solving this problem - adjusting the door and wedging the glass unit if the adjustment did not give a positive result.
Displacement of a plastic balcony door is possible in three planes - vertically, horizontally and in the door clamp. You can eliminate these problems by adjusting the fittings, the main thing is to find the adjustment points.
First of all, you need to circle the door leaf around the perimeter with a pencil. Thus, the starting boundaries are indicated and it will be easier to navigate during the adjustment.
- Horizontal adjustment: you need to open the door and find a hex screw from the end at the very bottom of the canopy. When the hex screw is rotated in different directions, the doors will move to the left or right.
- Vertical adjustment: close the sash and remove the plastic cap from the lower canopy. The adjustment screw is located inside the canopy, you can reach it from above with a long hexagon.
The pressure of the balcony door can be adjusted using pins or eccentrics that are located at the end of the door leaf.
It is possible to transfer the sash to a weak clamp, medium and strong. If you have trunnions, then they must be turned with an internal hexagon, and if the eccentrics are with pliers.
Wedging a double-glazed window
- If during the operation the balcony door has sagged, and the adjustment on the hinges does not give the expected result, it is necessary to unlink the glass unit.
- The meaning of the sash wedging is as follows - the diagonal that runs from the bottom hinge to the opposite corner of the sash must always be greater than the opposite one.
- The difference in the diagonals depends on the correct installation of the wedge pads between the glass unit and the profile.
- How to repair a plastic balcony door in this case:
- First of all, we make the spreading of the sash, remove the glazing beads. From the beginning, we remove the long glazing bead, then the rest around the perimeter in order of priority.
Spreading can be done with a knife or chisel.
- Next, using a riveted blade or a similar tool, we expand the space between the glass unit and the sash profile in the area where the support pads are installed and, if necessary, add another one.
- In the rest of the locations of the support pads, we perform the same actions.
- We check the final result.
If the sash works correctly, no rubbing occurs, then we hammer in the glazing beads (first short, then long).
The sash opened in two positions and does not close
One of the most common problems with plastic structures is the opening of the sash in two positions simultaneously (pivot and tilt).
This happens when the handle is moved to a vertical position with an already open alignment, which entails falling out of the upper opposite corner of the sash from the hook and sagging occurs, while the handle is blocked and the door cannot be closed.
To avoid such situations, blockers are used that do not make it possible to rotate the handle in the open sash mode.
The solution to this problem is very simple - just press down the upper corner located near the door frame hinge and move the handle to a horizontal position.
The leaf is locked and does not open
If, when you try to open the balcony, the handle does not spin at all (rotates no more than 30 degrees), then you must perform the following steps:
- Grip the balcony handle with one hand and the sash at the upper hinge with the other.
- Pull the sash at the upper hinge towards ourselves while turning the handle. The door opened, but in a swing-out position.
- Next, you need to press and put the sash lock vertically down and turn the balcony handle up 90 degrees.
- The next step is to press the sash as tightly as possible to the hinge and return the handle to a horizontal position. The door has been fixed.
PVC balcony doors creak for three reasons:
- adjustment of awnings and pressure is necessary
- metal fittings are rusted
- lack of lubrication.
The instructions for adjusting the door are shown in the instructions above.
Consider lubrication and corrosion control methods.
A universal and effective anti-corrosion agent is WD-40. Available in different capacities in the form of an aerosol can.
Inject WD-40 pointwise into the mechanism and wait for half an hour. Usually this time is enough for the agent to remove the rust. Then all dirt is removed with a rag or sponge and grease is applied pointwise.
Replacing the seal
On average, a seal on a balcony door is replaced every 2 - 3 years, but a high-quality seal can cost even 5 years. The seals have different configurations, it is important to purchase an elastic band that fits your door, for this you need to slightly remove the edge of the seal and cut off a few centimeters. Then you take a cut sample and buy a similar one.
- Seals are sold by meter, it is worth taking with a small margin of 10-15%.
- Instructions for replacing the seal:
- Remove the old seal.
- The groove is cleaned of dirt with an alcohol-containing solution.
- Next, we put the sealant into the groove around the perimeter from the upper corner.
- After passing the perimeter, cut off the edge of the elastic by 10 mm more and insert it into the groove so that it fits tightly with the beginning of the rubber cord.
Do not put the sealant on glue, otherwise, the next time you replace it, cleaning the groove will be a problem.
Sealing small cracks
- To seal cracks and scratches, you will need a cleaner, filler and liquid plastic from Cosmofen.
- Defects, cracks and the area around should be washed with soapy water and wiped dry.
- Further, the defect is treated with a cleaner. Not much is needed, since it acts as a soil.
- We fill the defect with liquid plastic and level the surface with a rubber spatula if the crack is large or polish with a paper towel if it is small.
Do not use colored or synthetic cloth napkins with Cosmofen liquid! Only paper, as Cosmofen dissolves paint and synthetic fabric.
Do-it-yourself repair and adjustment of a balcony door - step-by-step instructions with a photo and description Link to the main publication
Types of plastic balcony doors
A single-door door is a separate structure that is not connected to the window unit.
The spool door is installed in a wide doorway, in which a second door leaf is built in instead of a window. In this case, part of the wall under the window is disassembled to the floor. The user can use two sashes, but most often the second is tightly fixed and opened only when necessary.
The combined door is a classic window unit. There are three types of construction: with a door block on the right, on the left, or between two windows.
Types of concrete paths
There are three main types of concrete roads:
- monolithic - continuous, nasty or textured, installed using formwork
- molded - made using molds into which the solution is poured
- from concrete tiles - forms, methods of installation are used in various, store or homemade.
When performing installation work, it should be borne in mind that for the manufacture of a rigid base, a bedding of coarse sand or gravel must be made. This layer is able to save the structure from deformation, cracking during seasonal swelling of frozen soil. The more often the track is used, the thicker the drainage is performed.
To ensure natural drainage, the path is made with a one-sided slope or a central bulge. Where puddles form on the site after rain, the road is installed above the ground. Here it is necessary to make a higher bedding, using crushed stone, equip the surface with a drainage system.
Distinctive features of slopes made of various materials
The oldest and most proven method of finishing indoor slopes is plastering them. Today hardware stores abound in a wide variety of plaster mixes. The main advantage of plaster is its low price and the ability to apply any paint or finish to it with other facing materials. But don't try to do it yourself if you've never done plastering. Before making a flat surface yourself, you need a long workout on less difficult areas, for example, on walls.
The easiest way to arrange rounded slopes is plastering
The most convenient material for mounting slopes is plastic. Wall panels made of it have different colors and sizes, which allows you to make the necessary choice without unnecessary problems. In addition, there is a whole set of corners and other details that allow you to design the slope in the best way. The advantages of plastic are: absolute flatness of the surface, ease of installation, a huge variety of decorative design, impermeability to moisture, the ability to replace a single element without dismantling the entire structure.
The cost of plastic wall panels that are used for finishing slopes is low and suitable for low-budget repairs. Its combination with plastic window blocks is just perfect. Slopes made of PVC panels have no pronounced disadvantages.
Ready-made plastic slope for a window
Helpful advice! If in the process of finishing the slopes you need to achieve the effect of thermal insulation, then it is recommended to use sandwich panels as a finishing material. Inside them contains expanded polystyrene, which is an excellent insulation.
For the external finishing of the slopes of the windows, parts made of galvanized steel, covered with a polymer film with a dye, are used. Most often they are used on facades covered with metal siding. These parts are specially made for finishing the slopes on plastic windows with your own hands. The video of the installation of metal parts for slopes perfectly illustrates the whole process from start to finish.
Corrosion resistance and attractive appearance play a decisive role in the choice of this material for outdoor slope finishes. Metal slopes have a slightly higher cost than all their other types.
To create even (perpendicular to the wall) slopes, use a plaster corner
A very popular step is finishing the slopes with plasterboard sheets. For this purpose, choose a moisture-resistant drywall, since window slopes are traditionally considered places with high humidity. Condensation always forms on the windows, and such sheets are very resistant to it. You can, of course, use ordinary drywall sheets, but then they must first be coated with a primer several times or treated with a moisture-proof solution. Heat resistance, excellent thermal insulation and sufficient rigidity of the sheets allow them to be used without any fear for finishing window slopes.
Arrangement of a slope made of plastic
Drywall is the cheapest material of all of these, not counting plaster. If damaged, it can be easily repaired by simply covering the dent with putty and painting over. If the air humidity inside the room is high, then water vapor is absorbed by the drywall, and with a lack of moisture, they are released into the surrounding air, producing a kind of circulation.
Adjusting plastic windows yourself: video instruction. Winter-summer mode. Adjustment of the pressure mechanism. Buttonhole adjustment. Repair of metal-plastic windows.
Anyone who has ever made drywall slopes with their own hands knows that this material is afraid of excessive moisture. Already 75% of its content in the air is capable of stratifying sheets into components. In addition, slope damage is not uncommon. After all, a slight impact is enough for the sheet to break or a dent appears on it. Another "disease" of this material is that over time, various spots appear on it, which must be periodically painted over.
How to plaster window slopes (video)
A door equipped with such a mechanism should move as smoothly as possible, without jerking. The closing-opening speed is regulated by means of two screws located in the housing. Most often they are covered with a decorative panel, but they can also be located at the end of the case on the side facing the hinges. Unscrewing the screws completely is not recommended.
Closer adjustment screws location diagram
The spring power cannot be changed. Only the speed of movement of the door when opening is regulated: in this case, it is necessary to ensure that the door and the lever form an angle between themselves equal to 90 °. If the mechanism is additionally equipped door locking function, then the fixing point is also adjusted by tightening the nut on the lever.
Closing speed and latching speed adjustment
How to extend the service life of a seal for plastic windows: rules of operation, the choice of care products
In addition to the initial silicone treatment after installation, it is recommended to repeat the same procedures at least 1-2 times during the year. The exact instructions are in the accompanying documentation of the manufacturer of the sealant for plastic windows.
For care, it is better to use specialized products.
At the same time, dirt is removed from other surfaces of the window block. Adjust the fittings. Comprehensive service will help maintain the good functionality of the structure as a whole for many years at no extra cost.
How to change the seal on plastic windows, video with comments: