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What is needed for planting violets, and how to plant violets correctly

 What is needed for planting violets, and how to plant violets correctly


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It is worth purchasing one Uzambara violet, and then it is already difficult to stop - you want to settle terry, rimmed, fantasy and other varieties of Saintpaulias at home, only such a hobby will turn out to be quite costly. Therefore, novice flower growers try to immediately learn how to plant violets so that they can exchange planting material with each other, propagate those Saintpaulias that grow at home in a single copy, etc.

What is required to plant violets

Leave the propagation of violets by seeds to experienced growers and breeders, the process of harvesting small seeds and growing full-fledged plants from them will seem too complicated and long. It will be more useful to learn how to properly plant a violet in the ground: knowing all the subtleties of planting Saintpaulias, you can not only correctly transplant them from a cramped pot into a new one, but also grow a new adult plant from just one leaf.

First you need to refresh your memory of what exactly is required for planting Saintpaulias in the ground: which pots to choose, which land to plant violets, and how to determine if a plant is suitable for planting?

Video about planting violets

To grow and reproduce uzambar violets at home, you will need to stock up on:

  • flower pots of various sizes;
  • plastic cups or small bottles for rooting cuttings;
  • suitable soil mixture or components for self-compilation of the substrate;
  • complex fertilizers;
  • fluorescent lamps to illuminate plants in winter.

The containers under the Saintpaulia are usually small, flat type, due to the fact that the roots of the violets are located quite close to the surface. Flower pots are selected three times less than the diameter of the rosette of the plant - only in such, rather tight conditions, the Usambar violet feels best and blooms more luxuriantly. If you are going to root a stalk, disposable plastic cups (always with holes in the bottom) or medicine bottles will do.

Containers under Saintpaulia are usually small, flat type.

There should not be any special problems with the earthen mixture, since in any flower shop you can now buy a special soil for violets, light, loose and breathable. But some growers are very anxious about how to plant violets, preferring to mix the soil for their plants on their own from sod land, leaf and coniferous humus, peat, river sand and sphagnum moss.

On the Internet, you can find many different recipes for soil mixtures - whichever you choose, try to make the soil not heavy, pass moisture and air well, for this, be sure to use vermiculite moss-sphagnum or perlite. Foam crumbs can also be used.

It is advisable to immediately add superphosphate fertilizer to the self-prepared soil mixture. In the future, fertilizers are recommended to be applied during the formation of buds on the violet and after its flowering.

And of course, do not forget about the additional illumination, without which the Saintpaulias will be uncomfortable in the cold season, when the daylight hours are very short. Artificial lighting is used for 10-12 hours daily, fixing the lamps above the plants at a distance of at least 20 cm.

It is advisable to immediately add superphosphate fertilizer to the self-prepared soil mixture

Requirements for violets before planting

You can get a healthy, beautiful plant only if the original planting material was of proper quality. For rooting, you should take the leaves located in the second row of the outlet - they have already accumulated enough nutrients for active growth. When choosing a sheet, carefully inspect it so that there are no scratches, dents, burn spots and other defects that can subsequently lead to rotting of the planted leaf.

Yellowed leaves will also not work, since the supply of vitality in them has already come to an end, and you are unlikely to be able to get a healthy new plant from them.

As for store-bought adult violets, the question is even more complicated. When buying in the winter months or in the middle of summer, there is a risk that the roots of the violets will be frozen or underwent, and you will not be able to determine this by their appearance. It is safest to choose Saintpaulias in the spring - you do not have to fix existing problems with the root system, and violets will take root better.

It is safest to choose Saintpaulias in the spring - you do not have to fix existing problems with the root system

When buying saintpaulias, pay attention to the plant:

  • are there any specks, cobwebs or any living creatures on the leaves,
  • are they stretched out from lack of light,
  • whether the socket is symmetrical,
  • does the growth point rot?

If everything is in order, carefully transport the violets home, give them a little time to get used to their new place, and then you can already start transplanting flowers into more suitable pots if necessary.

How to plant a violet in a new pot

Before planting the violet, pour a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot for drainage.

You can read in detail how to plant a violet leaf in the ground or root it in a glass of water in the corresponding article on our website. Consider how to properly plant already adult Saintpaulias, because a transplant may be required for various reasons: the supply of nutrients in the old soil is completely depleted, pests or pathogens are in the ground, the pot has become cramped for a violet, etc.

In general, planting violets in pots with new soil is recommended at least once a year, and the capacity can remain the same - the main thing is to change the earthen mixture.

For planting Saintpaulias, you cannot use pots from under diseased plants. If there is no other way out, then the old flower pot must be thoroughly rinsed and disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Before planting the violet, pour a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot for drainage. Further, it all depends on the purpose for which the planting of Saintpaulia is carried out. If you are just going to change the pot to a more spacious one, then leave the earthen lump on the roots of the violet intact, carefully placing it in the middle of the new pot and sprinkling it with fresh soil on the sides.

Video about the correct planting of violets

In case of wilting, violet disease or soil acidification, the land will need to be completely changed by gently shaking it off the roots. At the same time, do not forget to check the root system with Saintpaulia and cut off all dried, rotten roots, as well as wilted lower leaves. Pour the soil mixture onto the drainage layer, set the violet root system on it and cover it with the soil mixture from above, leaving the growing point at the same level with the ground.

One of the main rules in the question of how to plant violets is to observe the optimal deepening of the plant into the ground so that the lower leaves are just above the surface of the ground. With excessive deepening, the likelihood of plant decay is high. A violet, planted too high, looks ugly in a pot and, moreover, is not stable.

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How to properly grow watermelons

AS IT IS CORRECT TO GROW WATERMELONS IN THE MIDDLE STRIP

Hello dear readers!

Today I will try to tell you how to properly grow watermelons even where the usual summer does not differ in southern heat.

In the south, every type of watermelon grows well. And what do we need to do - the representatives of the more northern regions of residence? The most important thing is to choose a variety and create suitable conditions for it.

Of course, the huge Astrakhan, almost pood striped watermelons, which are sold in the Russian markets in autumn, should not be planted by us "northerners". They are not for our climate, they need a lot of heat and sun. So the seeds obtained from these watermelons are best given to titmouses in winter. Let's stop our choice on early maturing and not very large, but no less tasty domestic varieties.

For example, for growing watermelons in the middle lane, I recommend the following varieties:

  • "Moscow Region Charleston F1"
  • "Krimstar F1"
  • "Pink Champagne F1"
  • "Gift to the north F1"

Some hobbyists also grow American varieties, early maturing, small-fruited, with black seeds, which are slightly larger than wheat. Harvest and sweet.

And also common are watermelons with a yellow peel, like a ripe melon.

Whatever the variety, you need to provide it with the sun and warmth as much as possible. If we grow in a greenhouse stretched from east to west, we give the first row from the sun to undersized peppers, the second row to tomatoes, and just plant watermelon seedlings along the northern wall. It is with this landing order that everyone will have enough light, the sun and its warmth. We will grow seedlings in advance in the same way as cucumber ones. By the time of planting, the seedlings should be in the phase of the so-called "shatrik", which means with leaves before the whip comes out.

Planting watermelon seedlings in a permanent place

To properly grow watermelons in the open field, you should thoroughly prepare the garden bed. To do this, we will dig a trench, two bayonets of a shovel deep. At the bottom, put the chopped grass in a thick layer, about 15 centimeters (chopped burdocks, drip, nettle, last year's hay). Throw in ten centimeters with earth and mix with a grass cut. Now we will fill everything to the top with fertile soil and plant seedlings with a soil clod at intervals of half a meter.

We will water with warm water. As the lash grows, we will tie it to the trellis, like cucumbers. Top dressing is the same as for cucumber (See article). Unless, with the beginning of fruit growth, it will be necessary to give an infusion of ash in a dose: a half-liter jar for a bucket of warm irrigation water.

Artificial pollination of watermelons

Watermelon has flowers for women and men. To make the fruit set for sure, we will carry out artificial pollination. To do this, we pick a male flower, cut off the petals and draw the staminate center along the pistil of a newly blossoming female flower (the rudiment of a future berry is clearly visible under the petals).

Watermelon whip formation

With proper cultivation, watermelons on one lash are left to grow two or three berries, all other flowers are usually plucked out. In the nest itself, you can leave two or three lashes. When our watermelons grow up, get heavier, each watermelon can be placed in a string bag and tied to the trellis with a strong twine, otherwise the lashes will not withstand the load and will fall to the ground soon.

The tops of the whips should be pinched about above the eighth leaf above the last fruit. These leaves will be poured with juice, these giant berries will be fed with sweetness.

When our watermelons are ripe, the stalk will begin to dry out and the skin will become glossy. If you pat such a watermelon with your palm, it will respond with a tight hum. So it's time to cut and taste.

I really hope that an article on how grow watermelons correctly in the middle lane and more northern regions it will be useful to you. See you!


8 methods for removing roots after cutting a tree

It is not entirely correct to call cutting down a tree “removal”, because, in fact, cutting down a tree is only 50% of its removal, since the root system of trees is half of the tree hidden from our eyes. Nevertheless, it often happens that part of the root system must also be removed (the foundation will be laid in place of the tree, sewage, etc.) There are many ways how you can get rid of an interfering stump on your site, in this article we will discuss the main of them, their advantages and disadvantages with specific examples. In this article, we will try to consider the main methods used in practice in order to get rid of the root system of an old tree in our area.

Methods for removing (uprooting) tree stumps:

Mechanical lifting of stumps

  1. Removing the stump by hand is carried out as follows: around the stump with the help of a shovel and other auxiliary hand tools (crowbar, pickaxe), a certain amount of earth is taken out, sufficient to remove the stump. If a flower bed is planned to be broken down at the site of the stump, for example, then the depth of root removal may be insignificant,
    «>
    if, on the site of the stump, the construction of a building will be carried out, and in this place the foundation will be located, or underground utilities will pass, then the depth of removal must be increased depending on the technical conditions of the future object. After the roots are freed from the ground to a sufficient depth, they are chopped off with axes, followed by removing the root system from the ground, or
  2. Removing a tree stump with a manual or electric winch, in which after the procedures described above to free the root system from the ground, the winch cable is fixed to the remainder of the trunk and the stump is pulled out of the ground. Although this method of removing a stump requires special equipment, compared to purely manual, mechanical lifting is considered more acceptable, because the root is removed to a greater depth and you have to spend less time on the same amount of work
  3. Grubbing a stump with an excavator. This type of uprooting can be beneficial to people in the case when there are many stumps on one site, and large-scale construction and (or) landscape design is planned on the site itself (arrangement of lawns with underground irrigation systems, construction of artificial reservoirs, such as a swimming pool or a pond, etc.) In such cases, of course, it is advisable and economically justified, perhaps, uprooting the stumps with the help of an excavator. Our specialist can go to your facility for free and consult on determining the most economical way to remove the stump for you.
  4. Uprooting a tree by crushing (milling) In this method, special equipment is used: a stump grinder. For many years now, our colleagues have been removing tree stumps in this way abroad, both in private households of their clients, as well as in the communal sphere and in business. This professional equipment appeared on our market not so long ago. This method has its disadvantages and advantages. There is only one drawback - the price. Stump grinders are professional, powerful, imported equipment that costs more than one thousand dollars, if you add the cost of consumables and maintenance to this, it comes out at today's prices a very impressive amount. But this method also has a number of serious advantages, which are especially obvious when working with large stumps with a diameter of more than 60 cm.
    If a large stump is located in the immediate vicinity of buildings, underground utilities, and other plants, the root system of which cannot be damaged, then such methods of mechanical removal of stumps as lifting the stump with an excavator or using a winch are not at all suitable. This threatens to damage nearby objects. In such cases, a stump grinder is an excellent option. With this method of removal, structures and communications are not damaged, removal is done quickly.
  5. Grubbing a stump by drilling. This method of uprooting is used mainly in industrial logging, large-scale clearing of forest areas for construction or agricultural work. This method requires powerful industrial equipment.As a rule, these are mechanical-hydraulic units connected to tractors and powered by the tractor's hydraulic system, from the power take-off shaft, or both power systems are used at once. For example, I will give a video from the Internet on the operation of such devices:

Chemical lifting of stumps


When and where to get vaccinated?

Vaccination is done in a home or greenhouse in a variety of ways. The timing of sowing seeds depends on their choice (more on this later). The time of the vaccination is calculated in such a way as to plant 25-day-old seedlings at the end of May. It should be remembered that seedlings older than this age take root less well, so there is no need to rush to sow or delay planting. Sowing and grafting time can be adjusted depending on the climatic zone and the method of cultivation. So, seedlings can be planted under a film or agrofibre earlier (by removing the shelter after the onset of stable heat).


Transfer

«Moving "to a new house occurs for several reasons:

  • if the plant is large for the vessel in which it was placed
  • if the soil has changed its composition and the plant begins to disappear
  • and if the stem is constantly lethargic and does not show any vital activity
  • Saintpaulias are often transplanted as a preventive measure every 2-3 years.

Let's take a closer look at the transplant process.

  1. If, due to a flower disease, or simply for aesthetic reasons (so that there is no bare stem), you decide to transplant it, then you need to know a few basic rules. They will help keep the plant alive.
  2. Transplanting into ceramic pots (it is better not to use others) is carried out only in the spring, and early. In winter, you cannot replant, even if the temperature is high - sunlight is important here, not heat.
  3. The earthen ball should be of medium humidity, that is, not dry (otherwise the roots will be damaged) and not too wet.
  4. If before that the inflorescences grew in plastic cups or temporary vessels, they can not be pulled out of them, but simply cut the vessel itself with a sharp knife, after which the earth will crumble and the plant will become bare. Thus, there is no risk of damage to the root system.
  5. In the new place, there should be high-quality drainage and without it it is impossible to transplant even for a while, since the flower will need a lot of moisture and abundant watering. Drainage should be high, up to 1/3 of the pot, if growing an adult flower.
  6. The depth at which you want to place the root system, select separately in each case. The best option is considered when the petioles of the lower leaves lightly touch the soil.


What to do with faded flowers?

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Violets in the amount of 10 pieces live with me not so long ago - about 3 months. Blooming. Please. Everything is great.

I. maybe I'll ask some stupidity, but - tell me pliz - what to do with faded flowers, with those that have dried up? And sometimes the buds dry up right away. From what?

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Comments (1)

The dried flowers are carefully broken out together with the peduncle. The buds dry out, most likely due to the dryness of the air, especially if the violets are next to heating appliances.

ABOUT! Thank you. Is the peduncle the stalk on which they grew? Yes? Am I getting it right? And if this stalk is still juicy, plump, but there are no flowers or buds on it anymore? Break it down anyway from the bottom, at the roots?

Yes, the peduncle is the stalk on which the flowers are located. There will be no new flowers and buds on it, so we break it out as close to the trunk as possible for aesthetic purposes, so as not to spoil the appearance. Violet is neither cold nor hot from this.

Thank you, Evgeniya. I understood. Indeed, it is not very beautiful when bare sticks stick out.

I think I will have many more questions.

Tatyana, to break out the peduncle is more correct so, take it by the stalk and gently wiggle it to the right and left, so the pedicel will break off more easily. Good luck to you and your flowers!


Watch the video: Making Perfume from Violets: Enfleurage. Fresh P


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