Rules for pruning roses in spring for better flowering
We are searching data for your request:
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.
What is spring pruning for roses for? Firstly, after winter, pruning of roses is mandatory, since during the previous season the bush grows strongly and some branches go in the wrong direction. To correct such errors, spring is the most convenient time for the formation of roses.
Secondly, by pruning, you can form not only a bush, but the size of a flower. For example, leaving only long peduncles on the plant and removing all small twigs, you will get large single flowers during flowering. If you want to form a bush in the form of a large bouquet with a huge number of small flowers, you should leave as many shoots as possible.
Thirdly, this is the rejuvenation of the flower. Having removed all the old branches in the spring, the growth of new, young shoots is provoked.
Workshop on CUTTING ROSES IN SPRING (shrubs, park, climbing roses)
When and how to trim
You should start pruning the rose bush until the buds have blossomed, but the threat of frost has already passed.
The first step is to examine the bush. Visually, it is easy to determine which shoots need to be removed. Further, the branches that go inside the bush are removed. This procedure improves the ventilation of the plant.
The next stage is the removal of some of the branches that have died out during the winter. The cut should be on the edge of the live wood. The same should be done with deformed and damaged branches. If the rose has been growing on the site for a long time and its branches are strong, strong, it is necessary to remove all thin, weak shoots. A young and fragile bush should not be cut off too much: all shoots are left, but shortened by one bud. This will make the plant stronger and grow faster.
When pruning, it is important to remember that the roots must have the power to "feed" the entire ground portion. Only if this condition is maintained will the flower actively develop and delight with an abundance of buds.
How to properly prune roses for growing large flowers
For lovers of large single flowers, the pruning of the bush should take place according to the scheme: on each branch after pruning, 3-4 buds should remain. They will give powerful shoots with large flowers.
Pruning a rose to form a flowering bush
If there is a desire for the rose to be a huge blooming bouquet, at least 6 buds should be left on the branch. In this case, the bush will be strewn with small flowers in large quantities, but on small stalks.
Pruning hybrid tea rose and floribunda
In order for the bush to be lush, formative pruning is necessary. First, decide what kind of rose you want to see and only after that start processing the shoots. First of all, sanitary pruning should be done by removing the shoots growing inside the bush, broken and deformed branches. Further, depending on the selected form, the required number of buds is left on the shoots: from 3 to 6 pieces. If the flowering has decreased significantly, the roses need to be cut more thoroughly - this will ensure active growth of shoots and abundant flowering.
How to prune miniature roses
Pruning miniature rose varieties is done according to the same principle as hybrid tea. First, the plant needs sanitary pruning, and only after that - formative.
Basic rules for pruning small roses: no more than 2-3 buds are left on the shoot and the length of such a branch should not exceed 10 cm.
During the summer, faded roses affected by diseases, insects, yellowed leaves, and dry branches are necessarily removed. This will make the plant healthier: protect it from diseases, pests and improve its appearance.
After pruning, shoots, leaves and flowers must be removed from the site to prevent infection of the entire plant from diseased parts.
Rules for pruning climbing roses
Young bushes of climbing roses, up to 4 years old, do not need pruning. At most, you can shorten the branches at the very ends "purely symbolically". If the plant is older, the largest (oldest) shoots must be removed at the very root, without even leaving a hemp. This should be done immediately after flowering stops. The treatment of the remaining young shoots is not carried out, since buds will develop at their ends next year.
Useful tips for pruning roses
- Lack of timely pruning can lead to late flowering.
- You should also not rush to prune shoots. Even a slight frost in May can lead to the loss of some of the peduncles.
- Late procedure inhibits further development of the plant.
- After pruning under the bush, fertilizer must be applied.
- All the resulting sections (more than 1 cm in diameter) are processed with garden varnish (you can buy it in the store or prepare it yourself from rosin, beeswax and interior fat in a ratio of 4: 2: 1).
- The next stage is spraying the bush with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate.
- Pruning roses is done with a sharp knife, which is treated with a disinfectant before starting work (from time to time it is moistened in a light solution of potassium permanganate, 70% alcohol solution).
- The cut should go obliquely at a height of about 5-8 mm from the kidney.
- When pruning, you need to make sure that the outer kidney is external. In this case, the shoot will grow outward.
- The slice color should be greenish or white.
- Pruning should be done in sunny, dry weather.
If you follow the simple rules of pruning, you can get a lush blooming of roses in early spring.
Suitable for a variety of medium-sized roses and is mainly used after flowering. The shoots are shortened at the level of 5-7 buds from the base and thus form a bush.
Recommended for vigorous climbing and tall hybrid tea roses. In this case, the shoots are shortened slightly: at the level of 8-15 buds from the base of the bush. Long pruning is carried out during the spring planting of seedlings.
In addition, there is combined trim - when the shoots of one plant are shortened to varying degrees. With the help of such pruning, bushes of some varieties of floribunda roses are formed. This allows you to give your plants a graceful shape.
As well as sanitary pruning, which is carried out throughout the growing season in order to prevent diseases. At the same time, the affected, dry, frozen and weak shoots are removed, the stems are shortened to healthy (green) tissue.
Do not feel sorry for the roses! Anyway, nothing will grow from a damaged (brown) and dry branch.
Do not be afraid to cut the rose - its buds wake up along the entire length of the shoot, which means that the bush will survive in any case. The worst thing that can happen is flowering will move away.
- the cut line runs above the kidney at a height of 0.5-0.7 mm at an angle of 45˚ with an inclination from the kidney
The life and health of the shoot depends on a correctly executed cut.
Frozen shoots are visible to the naked eye
And, of course, protect yourself - clothes with long sleeves, thick gloves or mittens, a hat will help you emerge victorious from the fight with thorns.
Roses are pruned with standard garden tools: a pruner, a delimber or a garden hacksaw. They must be sharp and clean. To prevent infection, the blades are disinfected:
- a light solution of potassium permanganate - dipped periodically
- 70% alcohol - it is poured into an empty can of "pshikalka" and the blades are periodically irrigated
- 3% solution of copper sulfate, if the tool is made of stainless steel.
Pruning tools (1 - lopper, 2 - hacksaw, 3 - secateurs) must be sharp and clean
Copper sulfate "kills" the pruner in 3-4 applications! Never dip steel tools into it! Stainless steel does not suffer so much, but various tool steel deteriorates. I dipped the pruner in the garden house in a jar with a solution of copper sulfate and forgot. A month later, the horns and legs were left, I had to throw it away.
After work, the tool is cleaned, wiped and lubricated until next use.
Many gardeners do not decontaminate the tool while working. It seems natural to me to approach a new bush with a clean pruner. It is not always possible to determine by eye whether a frostbite or an insidious disease has "marked" a rose. Therefore, I cut off suspicious branches first, disinfect the secateurs, wipe them. Then I continue to remove visually healthy, but "extra" shoots, dipping the blade into the disinfectant solution every three or four cuts.
Terms of work
The pruning time will be prompted by the buds themselves - when they swell, they begin to work. If you hurry, the rose will suffer from recurrent frost. If you work on the blossoming buds, the rose will weaken, since the cut shoots will take away some of the nutrients.
Swollen buds indicate that it's time to cut the rose.
How to prune different types of roses
Each type of rose requires an individual approach.
With strong pruning by 1-3 buds, the flowers are large, good for bouquets. Vigorous varieties are pruned weakly - by 8-10 eyes, the bushes prepared in this way are intended for landscaping.
With moderate pruning, hybrid tea roses bloom all summer.
With a weak pruning, the growths will be skinny, and with a strong flowering it shifts to August, the bush is depleted. Therefore, an average pruning of 4-6 buds is used.
After pruning in spring, floribunda blooms gorgeous in summer.
Annual shoots are shortened to 6-7 buds, last year's and older ones - up to 3-4.
Old and young shoots of spray roses will be overgrown with side branches, each of which will be crowned with a whole bouquet of flowers
In small-flowered roses, strong shoots are shortened to 2-3 buds, weak ones - to 1-2. In strong-growing large-flowered shoots are shortened by a third, and 2-3 buds are left on lateral growths.
When pruning polyanthus roses, take into account that flowers are formed on the shoots of the current and last year.
There are two main types of climbing roses, differing in the shape of the shoots and the type of flowering:
- rambler roses have thin flexible shoots and bloom in one wave on last year's shoots. If the faded lashes were not removed in the summer, this is done in the spring, cutting them off at the base of the bush into a ring. And also cut off the tops of extra long (more than 1 m) shoots of replacement
Branches that have faded last summer are removed from ramblers, and supports are prepared for young roses
When I was with the Rambler on "You", I had to tie the whips with multi-colored threads in order to know exactly their age.
Video: pruning climbing roses
Cutting "babies" is approached with the greatest caution. As a rule, they are only thinned out and the crown is sanitized. In this case, the shoots are shortened by a maximum of one third of their length.
Gentle pruning of miniature roses - only frozen, weak and growing shoots growing inside the crown are removed
For this variety of roses, medium pruning is used, leaving 3–6 buds on the shoot.
Without pruning the rose of grandiflora, the flowering will sharply decline
Sick, weak, who have lost their decorative effect are pruned.
Groundcover roses are characterized by their "independent" character, so their pruning is minimal.
Caring for pruned bushes
Prepared bushes are sprayed with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, watered with a solution of a ready-made complex fertilizer - Clean sheet, Agrecol, FERTIS.
If the bush is breathing in incense, it is watered under the root with a solution of Zircon and Citovit - one ampoule per 10 liters of water.
The revival of an old rose after a cardinal pruning is facilitated by the introduction of a bucket of humus + 40 g of superphosphate under one bush for digging. In addition, it is watered with a solution of heteroauxin - 100 mg per bucket of water.
Cutting a rose is not as scary as it might seem, the main thing is to measure it seven times. And believe me, even intuitively, you will do most of the work correctly. The reward will be the long blooming of the "queen" of the garden.
Foliar dressing of roses
Foliar dressing allows the plant to quickly get all the substances it needs. This fertilization method can be a real salvation in case the plant needs emergency help.
Foliar dressing can be carried out with any fertilizer, however, it is very important to observe the dosage here, since too high a content of some substances can burn the leaves and even destroy the plant.
Basic rules for foliar dressing:
- the concentration of the nutrient should be 2 times lower
- Before use, the nutrient mixture must be filtered through a very fine filter so as not to clog the spray nozzle
- leaf feeding is carried out strictly in the absence of the sun, water droplets on the leaves after the procedure work as lenses, increasing sunlight and causing burns
- when working on the street, there should be no rain or wind.
The best fertilizers for roses
Mullein - an excellent organic fertilizer containing a large amount of nutrients and minerals. In order for the fertilizer to be used without harm to plants, it must be allowed to ferment. To do this, it is poured with water in a ratio of 1 to 10 and insisted for a week. Before use, the finished mullein is once again diluted with clean water 1 to 1 and applied under rose bushes.
Wood ash - an excellent mineral fertilizer containing all the trace elements necessary for the life of a plant. Ash can be used dry or diluted with water by taking 150 grams of ash per 10 liters of water. Ash can also be used with mullein.
What else can you feed a rose in spring? You can use ready-made complex preparations that have a balanced composition. They contain everything necessary for the growth and flowering of plants, are simple and convenient to use, they can accelerate the growth of the bush, increase the number of buds and enhance the color of the flower. Among the most popular and effective drugs are: Pocon, Zircon and Agricola-Aqua.
Traditional methods of feeding roses
Nettle infusion - an effective environmentally friendly product that does not require any costs. To prepare it, take freshly harvested nettle, put it tightly in a bucket and fill it with water. Insist for about a week in a warm, dark place. Before use, dilute with water 1: 1.
Onion peel - is able not only to feed the rose bush, but also to provide it with protection from certain diseases and pests. For cooking 100 gr. the husks are poured with water and boiled for at least 15 minutes. This product can be used after 2 hours.
Common culinary yeast able to improve the quality of the soil, and provide roses with the necessary nutrients. For preparation of means 1 tbsp. l. sugar is diluted in a liter of warm water, 10 g is added there. yeast and put in a warm place for several hours. Before use, the product is diluted in clean warm water in a ratio of 1 to 10.
Summer pruning roses
This is a rather painstaking occupation and will require attention and experience. The main task is not to remove all shoots. Only wilted flowers need to be removed. This will cause the plant to bud again. This procedure is very important for species such as large-flowered and standard roses.
Perennial rose bushes need rejuvenating pruning. Summer is most suitable for such procedures, because the cut sites dry out rather quickly, infections do not spread.
- Do not remove a flower that has bloomed by simply pinching it. Then the bud will grow on a thin and bendable stem. This method is not suitable for roses. Trim to the nearest developed healthy kidney. Then new shoots with numerous buds will begin to grow.
- Some gardeners do not always remove flowers that have already wilted. And this must be done.It is necessary to cut off 8 mm higher than the next eye. You need to make sure that the branch in this place is strong and dense, will not bend in the future, and will be able to hold the opened bud.
- If you have a variety with large flowers, then along with a wilted inflorescence, branches with some leaves, incomplete and one five-fold, are removed. After such pruning, the plant immediately begins to bloom again.
- For standard roses, you need to direct the peephole to the outside when trimming. It is also done when pruning in the spring.
- When the bush is multi-flowered, then in the area above the top leaf, all the inflorescences are removed after wilting.
- At the beginning of autumn, it is better not to prune. Give the shrubs time to prepare for wintering. Even if you remove a twig that stimulates flowering, the bud that appears will simply not have time to bloom. You should not prune roses in September for flower arrangements and bouquets for this reason.
- In the case when you seem to be doing everything right, and flowering does not occur, then, perhaps, blind shoots are formed on the bush. In this case, it is recommended to cut the bud at the top of the branch together with one leaf.
Weak and late stems must be harvested immediately. The strongly overgrown and dense rose garden does not look very neat. Excessive density of the bush leads to poor air flow. For this reason, fungal infections can develop.
Sometimes, after flowering, not only the wilted flower or inflorescence itself is cut off, but also the entire shoot. Only one bud is left above the soil surface. From it next year, a new strong and young shoot grows, which will give abundant flowering.
Thus, the plant gradually rejuvenates. By the second half of August, two-thirds of the plant is removed. Pruned cuttings can be used as propagation cuttings.
Pruning hybrid tea roses
These varieties usually have only one flower per stem. After the flower withers, in June, the entire shoot is removed and only 3 to 4 leaves are left. After this procedure, shoots appear that will bloom throughout the summer season.
Pruning climbing roses
- They are also called "ramblers". Their buds appear on the shoots of the second year. Therefore, in the first year, pruning is not carried out, except for sanitary.
- Flowering in these varieties is horizontal, along the shoot, as well as on the side branches.
- After the flowering period, remove the ovary to the first leaf. This procedure facilitates the growth and condition of the rose bush. And there is a stimulation of the growth of new branches, which means that later there will be more lush flowering.
Pruning floribunda roses
The flowering of this type of rose is more powerful than that of hybrid tea. The task of pruning is to achieve flowering without interruption during the active flowering period. Combined cropping is commonly used:
- An easy form of removing some shoots to start early flowering.
- Deeper removal of other branches for the growth of new branches and subsequent flowering on them.
Having made such a stepwise removal, we stimulate the continuous flowering of the bush.
What roses and why do you need to prune after flowering
Summer pruning of roses is to remove faded flowers. This allows you to give the bushes a neat appearance after flowering and create favorable conditions for their more abundant next flowering in the current or next year.
Summer pruning is especially necessary for "noble" varieties of roses (from the groups of hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora) capable of re-flowering. Without pruning, these types of roses wither quickly and after a few years cease to bloom altogether.
Super fertilizer for rose bushes
Experienced growers share their secrets for caring for this wonderful flower.
When the first buds are formed or have already blossomed, the plants can be poured with castor oil.
First, the soil is well moistened, then castor oil is diluted and after 2 hours watered: add 1 teaspoon of castor oil to 1 liter of water.
Gorgeous flowering can be achieved if the plants are poured with vodka: pour 1 glass of vodka into a bucket of water, stir, immediately water the seedlings. After the first watering, the bushes begin to bloom better.
You can use ammonia as a fertilizer. It stimulates growth, makes the buds open generously. For a bucket of water - 40 ml of ammonia. The plant is sprayed with a spray bottle. At the same time, rid it of aphids and other pests.
Any rose bushes can be fertilized with succinic acid, though no more than 3 times a month. It will help revive a wilting, weak plant. Watering roses with succinic acid will help strengthen and nourish the roots.
This procedure can be carried out at all stages of seedling growth.
Attention! Wear safety glasses and gloves when handling succinic acid.
Prepare an acid powder or tablet:
- in the form of powder (50 g) or tablets (10-15 pcs.)
- clean water - from 5 to 10 liters.
There are several options for handling plantings:
- wiping foliage
- root watering
- soil nutrition.
For full care of seedlings, go through all these steps after a 7-day break.
Fertilize flowers with nitroammophos on all types of soils.
Nitroammofoska - this is a nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium set, with a high content of nutrients. This fertilizer comes in different brands, so read the instructions before buying.
In the fall, it should simply be scattered under the bushes, a handful under each young bush. Pour more under mature seedlings, about 0.5 cups of the drug. In the spring, it is better to water according to the instructions.
Solution for light soils: 20 g of fertilizer in 10 liters of water. Plants need nitrogen in spring, so even plentiful watering is not terrible. But at the end of summer, it is generally impossible to oversaturate them with nitrogen, otherwise you will destroy all plantings.
- From April to May - the first feeding with nitroammophos.
- June. The soil is mulched, any organic fertilizer is applied.
- In July, flowering seedlings spray the bushes with a weak solution (up to 1%).
- Early August - only very weak seedlings are fed. Strong feeding is not recommended.
Wood ash as fertilizer for the garden
Wood ash as fertilizer for the garden. It helps to fill the lack of basic elements necessary for a full-fledged vegetation ...
Dear flower growers, the experience of how to feed roses for abundant flowering will be useful to all lovers of these delicate flowers. The whole summer is ahead, it's time to enjoy the lush bloom of this wonderful flower.