Quisqualis Indica Care – Information About Rangoon Creeper Vine

Quisqualis Indica Care – Information About Rangoon Creeper Vine

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By: Amy Grant

Amongst the lush foliage of the world’s tropical forests one will find a predominance of lianas or vine species. Also known as Akar Dani, Drunken Sailor, Irangan Malli, and Udani, this 12-foot (3.5 m.) long vine is an aggressively fast grower which spreads rapidly with its root suckers.

The Latin name for rangoon creeper plant is Quisqualis indica. The genus name ‘Quisqualis’ means “what is this” and for good reason. Rangoon creeper plant has a form more closely resembling that of a shrub as a young plant, which gradually matures into a vine. This dichotomy flummoxed early taxonomists who eventually gave it this questionable nomenclature.

What is Rangoon Creeper?

Rangoon creeper vine is a woody climbing liana with green to yellow-green lance shaped leaves. The stems have fine yellow hairs with occasional spines forming on the branches. Rangoon creeper blooms white at onset and gradually darkens to pink, then finally red as it reaches maturity.

Flowering in the spring through summer, the 4 to 5 inch (10-12 cm.) star-shaped aromatic blossoms are clustered together. The fragrance of the blooms is most striking at night. Rarely does the Quisqualis fruit; however, when fruiting does occur, it first appears as red in color gradually drying and maturing into a brown, five winged drupe.

This creeper, like all lianas, attaches itself to trees in the wild and creeps upwards through the canopy in search of the sun. In the home garden, Quiqualis can be used as an ornamental over arbors or gazebos, on trellises, in a tall border, over a pergola, espaliered, or trained as a specimen plant in a container. With some supportive structure, the plant will arch and form large masses of foliage.

Quisqualis Indica Care

Rangoon creeper is cold hardy only in the tropics and in USDA zones 10 and 11 and will defoliate with the lightest of frosts. In USDA zone 9, the plant will likely lose its foliage too; however, the roots are still viable and the plant will return as an herbaceous perennial.

Quisqualis indica care requires full sun to partial shade. This creeper survives in a variety of soil conditions provided they are well draining and is pH adaptable. Regular watering and full sun with afternoon shade will keep this liana thriving.

Avoid fertilizers that are high in nitrogen; they will only encourage foliage growth and not flower set. In regions where the plant experiences dieback, flowering will be less spectacular than in tropical climes.

The vine may occasionally be plagued by scale and caterpillars.

The vine can be propagated from cuttings.

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Germination of the Rangoon Creeper

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Rangoon creeper's genus name, Quisqualis, means "what?" or "which?" Both are good questions for a plant that can't decide whether it is a bush or a climber. A seedling looks like a small shrub for six months or so, before sending up vines from its base. Rangoon creeper (Quisqualis indica) is also called "drunken sailor," possibly for its tendency to sprawl atop other shrubs instead of standing up properly. Its panicles of tubular and fragrant star-shaped flowers turn from white to pink to red as they age. Rangoon creeper is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12.

Find fresh fruits of Rangoon creeper in late summer or fall, after the plant has finished blooming. Keep in mind that each "fruit" when mature looks something like an oblong nut, with a shell that should be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long, ridge and brown.

Snip off the pointed tip of a shell just enough so water can penetrate it if you wish to speed germination of the kernel inside. If you would like even more rapid germination, use your fingers to peel off the rest of the somewhat brittle shell, being careful not to damage the kernel.

Soak the fruits or extracted kernels in a covered container of lukewarm water overnight. Fill seedling pots with a mixture of half seed sowing mix and half sand. Plant one fruit or kernel in each pot one inch deep.

Cover the pots with plastic wrap to keep the mix damp. (Place them on a seed-starting heat mat if necessary to provide temperatures in the upper 70s or low 80s Fahrenheit.) Continue to water as necessary to keep the mix consistently moist but not soggy. Watch for sprouts in as little as five days for completely shelled kernels or in as long as six to 12 weeks for those still encased in their fruits.

How to keep rangoon creeper and russelia blooming

Rangoon creeper vine loves heat and smells divine. It needs regular trimming and training.

Joan Smith's Rangoon Creeper

Q: My rangoon creeper and russelia are blooming beautifully. Do I need to prune either in order for them to continue blooming?

A: Rangoon creeper, Quisqualis indica, is a sun-loving vigorous vine with long, tubular blooms that flare at the ends and age from whitish-pink to red for a great summer display. Fragrance is most intense at night.

This aggressive perennial, which spends warm/hot months growing and blooming, needs substantial support. Prune after the last freeze in early spring, if needed or desired. You can trim spent blooms, which can encourage more growth and eventually more flowers.

Horticulturist and former Mercer Botanic Gardens director Linda Gay offers these interesting tips on training and pruning the vine:

“I have found if rangoon creeper can be spiraled around a post and not allowed to grow and float freely in the air, it will flower more. The pressure on the stems, at the bends in the spiral, throws clusters of flowers. Most vines, if grown around a post and trained in a corkscrew fashion, will produce more flowers than their wild and free cousins. Rangoon creeper is a monster vine and needs a huge space to run crazy or a post to wrap and compress.

“I had 8-foot posts in the vine garden to grow display plants at Mercer. As I trained the vines, I wrapped them around the post starting low and keeping the runners close to each other, compressing the plant in a small area for display. This spiraling/corkscrewing/training allowed me to manipulate the plant growth, and the end result was I was forcing the plant to bloom, and the bloom cluster occurred at the bend on the vine. It was a cool discovery.

“As far as trimming, yes, trim back and train regrowth on something to create the pressure on the stems, an obelisk or an arbor or even a post.”

Remove the spent flowers on your russelia or fountain plant to encourage more blooms. Trim the growing ends to shape the plant. Remove any dying or dead canes.

Fountain plant, Russelia equisetiformis, is a low-care, reseeding perennial with arching, slender, rushlike branches and an abundance of orange-red tubular flowers spring to frost. It blooms best in full sun but tolerates part shade.

This plant tolerates most any well-draining soil. It is drought-tolerant once established. It works well in a large container, too. It may freeze back but is usually root-hardy.

Q: My Louisiana Irises are not liking the direct sunlight and heat. They had looked so lovely along the side of our driveway. As these irises dwindle in the heat, I was wondering if you would advise that I pull them, store them in the refrigerator and replant in fall in another location that doesn’t receive as much sunlight? Any suggestion as a replacement?

A: These water-loving native American irises bloom best with sun, especially months of winter sun. Some do like a bit of protection from summer afternoon sun.

Handsome sword-shaped Louisiana foliage, which begins to grow in fall, is at its best winter and spring. But much of the foliage typically yellows and plants enter dormancy as rays and heat intensify this time of year.

Remove dead foliage as it appears for a tidier look. Mulch to slow soil-moisture loss as well as weed growth. Spread pine needles or leafmold to prevent rhizome sunburn.

If there’s space in the flower bed, add hot-weather bloomers such as purslane to shift the focus from any tired iris foliage. New iris growth will emerge in early fall.

If you decide to move your irises, choose a bed with at least a half day of direct sun. Divide and transplant mid-August into October. Cut the foliage back, leaving about an 8-inch fan of the swordlike leaves. Dig and divide the horizontal thickened roots (rhizomes) you wish to move. There’s no need to refrigerate. Plant the rhizomes just beneath the surface of a fertile soil. Do not expose rhizomes to the sun as they might burn. Water and mulch. Keep the rhizomes moist.

Drift roses, ornamental grasses or rosemary might be replacement options for your sunny, driveway bed.

Louisiana irises vary from 2 to about 6 feet tall among the species. The spring blooms come in many colors and are most striking in the landscape. Remove spent flowers, so the plant will spend all its energy on stronger foliage rather than developing seed pods. The seed don’t come true to the mother plant.

The iris rhizomes will spread and naturalize in the garden with moist, compost-enriched soil.

Water year-round, and flood the irises twice in January when they’re growing and preparing their spring blooms.

Apply an 8-8-8 fertilizer when it’s cool in November and in January. Fertilize less vigorous plants again after spring blooms.

Recommended Vines for Houston

Here is a list of favorite vines for growing in our area. This list is not complete by any means and if you have favorites you’d like to share, please mention them in the comment section below.

Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) Also known as Confederate Jasmine, this evergreen vine puts off a show in spring with a flush of bright green new growth and small white fragrant blooms in the shape of a star. A good choice for a trellis where you can shape it as desired.

Dutchman’s Pipevine (Aristolochia fimbriata)– Small ground hugging vine that prefers well-draining moist, rich soil. Good as a vine or ground cover with burgundy and yellow orchid-like flowers that bloom late spring to early fall. It is the host plant for Pipevine swallowtail butterfly. The larva will eat the foliage but the plant will recover. It’s a root hardy perennial that will return each spring. Adding this plant will attract more iridescent-blue and black butterflies to your garden.

Carolina Jessamine (Gelsemium sempervirens) – Evergreen climber that bursts into bloom in early spring with golden yellow flowers. A native plant with dark green foliage that grows well in sun, partial sun or bright shade. Would be excellent for year round coverage on a chain-link fence.

Rangoon Creeper (Quisqualis indica) – Native to tropical Asia this tender perennial vine is a fast grower and may cover a fence easily in one season. Very showy multi-colored trumpet-like flowers of red, pink and white, this vine is fragrant too. Usually dies back in winter. Prune in late winter/early spring. New growth will emerge from base in spring.

Crossvine Tangerine Beauty (Bignonia capreolata ‘Tangerine Beauty’) – Easy to grow vine that provides abundant 2 inch trumpet shaped tangerine blooms in late spring, and sporadically in summer. Native, semi-evergreen to evergreen 30’, non-damaging tendrils, sun/part shade. Prefers moist soil with good drainage. Attracts hummingbirds.

Mandevilla (Mandevilla spp.)Tender woody vine with trumpet shaped flowers. Usually dies back to roots in colder winters, but emerges again in spring from the base. Available in colors in white, pink and red flowers. Varieties Mandevilla boliviensis (white flowers), Mandevilla sanderi ‘Red Riding Hood’ (red flowers) and Mandevilla x amoenaAlice Dupont’ (pink flowers). Full sun to partial shade. Prefers moist soil. Attracts hummingbirds.

Wisteria ‘Amethyst Falls’ (Wisteria frutescens ‘Amethyst Falls’) – An improved selection of a native American Wisteria vine, not the more aggressive Asian varieties. It has longer and deep purple flower clusters and it flowers as a younger plant. Full to part sun.

Coral Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) – Native, tough, deciduous to semi-evergreen, twining climber with clusters of 2 inch coral trumpet shaped flowers. Blooms heavy in spring with sporadic blooms summer and fall, full sun to bright shade. Produces bright red berries. Attracts hummingbirds.

Mexican Flame Vine (Pseudogynoxys chenopodioides) – Synonym name (Senecio confusus). Coarsely toothed, fleshy leaves, foliage darkens to burgundy in fall. Bright orange, daisy-like flower that bloom from spring to fall. Sun/light shade, moist, good drainage, root hardy, loves the heat. Attracts butterflies.

Pink Coral vine (Antigonon leptopus) – Heart shaped leaves, delicate vine that climbs by tendrils. Trailing sprays of hot rose pink flowers summer to fall. Attracts honey bees and bumble bees. Excellent summer bloomer. Well drained moist soil, thrives in sun/part shade, root hardy. Also available in a white variety.

Passion flower (Passiflora spp.)Passiflora caerulea with sky-blue corollas over white petals is cold hardy in our area. Passion flowers are the host plant for the Gulf Fritillary butterfly.

They usually prefer the blue flowers but the Crimson variety is an exotic vibrant red and is considered a tropical variety in our area. These are not nearly as cold hardy as the others and will need good protection and mulch to entice them to return.

Maypops (P. incarnata) is native to the southeastern US and is better behaved than Passiflora ‘Incense’ (Passiflora incarnata x cinnicata) which is too aggressive (perhaps better suited in a container with a trellis). Check with our staff on which variety would be best for your needs.

11 fragrant plants to add to your garden

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1. Confederate jasmine produces white flowers and can climb quite high into trees. 2. Rangoon creeper is shrubby vine that produces star-shaped flowers that come in a variety of colors ranging from white to deep red. 3. Angelwing jasmine produces white flowers from the spring through the fall. (Photo: Photos by Sally Scalera/For FLORIDA TODAY) Buy Photo

If you enjoy aromatherapy, you may want to consider adding some fragrant plants to your porch or in your landscape. They come in different flower colors, intensity of fragrance and blooming seasons.

Here are just a few to choose from:

Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana) is one of our native trees that is very fragrant and produces small yellow pom-pom flowers. It grows 15 to 25 feet tall with a 15- to 25-foot spread. The flowers are produced year-round, and this tree prefers a location in full sun. Sweet acacia is a slow-growing tree and it does have thorns.

Fringe tree (Chionanthus virginicus) is another native tree that grows 12 to 20 feet tall with a 10- to 15-foot spread. The white flowers are fragrant and are produced in the spring. This tree also attracts birds because fruit is produced after the flowers.

Bring pop of color to your garden

Night blooming jessamine (Cestrum nocturnum) has a very strong fragrance and it might be best to have just one per yard (or neighborhood) and have it somewhat away from the house. The white flowers are produced at intervals all year long. This plant will also grow 6 to 10 feet tall and wide. Find a location that receives full sun or partial shade for this plant. C. nocturnum can tolerate a wide range of pH and it can handle all soil moisture levels from wet to dry. Just remember, it is a fast grower and it is sprawling, so think of this when finding the right spot.

Fiddlewood (Citharezylum fruiticosum) is another native that produces very fragrant white flowers from the spring through the fall. This plant can get 8 to 10 feet tall with a 6- to 8-foot spread. Find a location that receives full sun to partial shade, and if you live on the beach, that’s OK as it has high salt spray tolerance. Fiddlewood has high drought tolerance and it prefers alkaline soils. This shrub will also attract birds to your landscape.

Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides) has a strong fragrance to go with its pure white flowers. This shrub can grow 6 to 10 feet tall with an equal spread. Gardenias like a lot of sun, though they do fine in partial shade. The flowers are produced in the spring. Pruning should be done soon after flowering has stopped. Gardenias will do best in soils that have been amended with organic matter.

Rangoon creeper is shrubby vine that produces star-shaped flowers that come in a variety of colors ranging from white to deep red. (Photo: Sally Scalera/For FLORIDA TODAY)

Angelwing jasmine (Jasminum nitidum) is a fast-growing shrub that can reach heights of 4 to 6 feet and a spread of 6 to 10 feet. The white flowers are produced from the spring through the fall and have a light fragrance. Plant in a location that receives full sun or partial shade. Shining jasmine tolerates a wide range of pH and can tolerate dry soils.

Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac) is an evergreen shrub that can grow up to 10 feet tall if allowed. Prune the shrub regularly because it blooms on new wood. Plant in locations that receive full sun to partial shade. The flowers produce a heavy fragrance and they are used in making perfumes and as a flavoring in tea.

Sweet olive (Osmanthus fragrans) has a very delicate fragrance that, unlike the night blooming jessamine, means that a number of these shrubs planted together will not be too overpowering. Sweet olive is a very upright, airy plant that can reach 6 to 10 feet tall with only a 3- to 4-foot spread. This plant produces its white, inconspicuous-looking flowers in the spring and fall. An area with partial shade is perfect for these shrubs.

Remember gardeners, Brevard fertilizer ban in effect

White butterfly ginger (Hedychium coronarium) spreads by rhizomes and can grow 2 to 3 feet tall. The pleasantly fragrant white flowers are borne at the top of each leaf stalk. After the stalk has flowered, go ahead and cut it at ground level as that stalk will gradually turn yellow and die. Chop the stalk up into small pieces and lay them on the ground, around the base of the plant, to allow the organic matter to return to the soil. This tropical-looking plant will look best in partially shady locations.

Rangoon Creeper (was Quisqualis indica but, now it’s Combretum indicum) is a large growing shrubby vine that produces star-shaped flowers that come in a variety of colors ranging from white to deep red. The flowers, when they first open, are white, then they turn to pink, and then finally red. The fragrance is sweet and fruity and will certainly get your attention if you get a whiff. The foliage is also an attractive glossy, deep green. This vine can get quite tall and even climb up into trees, if allowed.

Confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is an evergreen vine that is blooming right now! The fragrance is very strong, and the white flowers are quite attractive. This vine will also climb high into trees, so beware.

Sweet acacia produces small yellow pom-pom flowers, but watch out for the thorns! (Photo: Sally Scalera/For FLORIDA TODAY)

Sally Scalera is an urban horticulture agent and master gardener coordinator for the University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agriculture Sciences.

Caring For The Rangoon Creeper

Size & Growth

Quisqualis plants are fast growers and spread rapidly from root suckers and seeds. In excellent growing conditions, it can reach up to 30’ feet.

The leaves are about 5” inches long and oval or elongated with bright green color to help create lush foliage.

Flowering and Fragrance

The white, pink and red flower clusters of the Drunken Sailor plant are its glory.

The flowers are tubular and have a sweet floral fragrance. The blooms grow in bright white pendent racemes.

Each flower is about 3” inches long and changes colors. The blooms start out white, change to pink before turning to bright red flowers.

Light & Temperature

Hardy to USDA Hardiness Zone 10 and 11, the flowering Rangoon Creeper can thrive in both full sun and part shade.

While it is tolerant of humidity and very poor growing conditions, it defoliates with the slightest of frost.

It succeeds in tropical, subtropical and temperate climes where it’s usually warm and humid.

Water and Feeding

This native to tropical and sub-tropical climes, needs sun and water on a regular basis.

Allow enough time to let the soil dry a little bit before watering it again.

As for fertilizers, doesn’t require heavy feeding. If your soil lacks nutrients, add composted cow manure or granular fertilizer.

Fertilize twice a year, once in the fall and once in spring. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen as it will encourage healthy foliage growth at the expense of flowering.

Soil & Transplanting

This non-fussy grower can tolerate and thrive in most soils.

If the soil is well-drained and pH-adaptable, the vine will keep spreading and flowering abundantly.

The vine will transplant but doesn’t need to be as plants usually grows upwards from suckers coming up from the root system.

Divide the roots and relocate to new locations easily.

Grooming and Maintenance

Cut plants back to shape the shrub in early spring before flowering June to September.

When you’ve given the vine the best growing conditions, you will have to prune plants regularly to keep it in bounds.

Subtropical and tropical climbers

Scrambling, twining, creeping vines whichever way you look at them, have always been popular for a multitude of reasons not least as they are usually fast and ‘flower heavy’. The following is by no means the only way they might grow for you, its just an idea on how I’ve worked subtropical and tropical climbers into coastal gardens, usually out of the wind facing winter north (southern hemisphere) or south (northern hemisphere), in pretty good organically enriched soil and with adequate summer water.

Climbing Bauhinia (Bauhinia corymbosum)

Scrambling ‘climber’ Hibiscus geranioides ‘La Belle’. Photo courtesy Austraflora

Alway match the vigour of your climber selection with the purpose you have in mind. This avoids choices that would grow strangely huge for your pocket handkerchief sized inner city terrace, completely smothering a front iron lace fence before the second year, then marauding ravenously across your neighbour’s roof line. Bougainvillea and wisteria come to mind … It would be equally disappointing, whatever beauty the flower might promise, if your climber had only managed a dainty two metrs after many seasons with another 15 m to make any impact on a freestanding garage wall. Avoiding the fancy dwarf ivies will relieve you of this sad fate.

LIGHT WEIGHTS – subtropical climbers for small spaces less than 3m
This is the shallow end and best filled with either slow growth rates or something that reduces back to nothing during winter dormancy.

The Hoya tribe fit the former well over old tree stumps, as does the very old fashioned but charming Cigarette Vine (Manettia bicolor). While its not strictly speaking a climber, there are others like the Climbing Hibiscus (Hibiscus geranioides) with pastel pink high spring trumpets like tiny cocktail parasols that will obligingly cover a similar small space in a sunny spot. Proving their versatility, its very easy to encourage a “foam over” across hard-edged modern finishes like off formed concrete retainers, where German ivy (Senecio macroglossus variegatus) can bring a certain winter appeal with butterscotch coloured daisies even in semi shade.

Manettia. Photo Michael Wolf

Senecio macroglossus variegatus

Antigonon leptopus Photo Forest & Kim Starr

Coral Vine (Antigonon leptopus) fits the later group and because it fades completely away in winter, is best planted where it can win high summer feature using a robust support host plant that can take the strain but not be missed come June to November. During this time the whole dries off and is easily yanked off frame work hedge evergreens like photinia, viburnum and lillypilly that manage these fluctuation or a dedicated north facing frame suits if you can stand its winter vacancy. Otherwise, over a small arbour or laser cut corten steel panel looks good.

Quisqualis pseudomusiendifolia ‘Red Riot’

Another good deciduous light twiner, Bow Tie Vine (Dalechampia dioscoreifolia) will also wend its glittery metallic bracts through a sturdy host shrub or light support.

Relatively new comer, the cumbersomely named Quisqualis pseudomusiendifolia ‘Red Riot’ is really a freestanding rambler with an untidy open habit, that’s lose enough to follow a lattice panel if you wanted to get some interest over a dreary house brick wall … Why render when you can sling this thing up in a season and it stays reasonably well covered during winter if facing north and not within a broad eave, not to mention the persistent and shamelessly attractive huge poinsettia-like red bracts.

Clerodendron thomsonii ‘Delectum’

MIDDLE WEIGHTS – subtropical climbers for 5 to 10m coverage:
For required space to be covered, these are probably the most often encountered climbers. A single plant will expand up to 5m either side of its first point of contact, in transformation of an otherwise un-lovely stretch of galvanised chain mesh, into a rhapsody of Beauty Vine (Clytostoma callistegioides), Mexican Blood Trumpet (Distictis buccinatoria), Bleeding Heart Vine (Clerodendron thomsonii ‘Delectum’), Climbing Frangipani (Conemorpha fragrans), Flame Vine (Combretum coccineum ‘Crimson Cloud’), or Climbing Bauhinia (Bauhinia corymbosum). But don’t be tempted to mix plantings for increased flowering, as duelling climbers always make for a nasty thicket, that’s not easily separated, if you would rather avoid a catastrophe of leaf stripped herbage in the process.

Flame Vine (Combretum coccineum ‘Crimson Cloud’)

Clytostoma callistegioides Photo Bri Weldon

Climbing Frangipani (Conemorpha fragrans)

Mexican Blood Trumpet (Distictis buccinatoria)

Climbing Bauhinia (Bauhinia corymbosum)

Rangoon Creeper (Quisqualis indica)

HEAVY WEIGHTS – subtropical climbers to cover 10m plus:
These vines are reserved for ‘the big job’, so if you really do need to get coverage across that garden shed, a 20m expanse of feature retainer wall face on grow cables or 15m of hefty colonnade, THESE are the ones for you. Try Hawaiian Chalice (Solandra grandiflora), Herald’s Trumpet (Beaumontea grandiflora), Giant Burmese Honeysuckle (Lonicera hildebrandiana) or Rangoon Creeper (Quisqualis indica). Gardening teaches you faith and patience but you’ll only need the former in deciding if the one plant will ‘do it’ for you in terms of coverage, as aggressive growth rates are assured. The only things you might need after planting are a whip and chair if making the mistake of establishing your new climber in a small space, as all are quite capable of trunk diameters greater than one’s leg after the first 10 years !!

Lonicera hildebrandiana Photo Forest and Kim Starr

Herald’s Trumpet (Beaumontia grandiflora)

Hawaiian Chalice (Solandra gradiflora)

..often come into a design by way of having to arrive at wide but thin cover to obstruct outside views for privacy reasons and at the same time not obstruct egress adjacent to narrow pathways on the planting side.

Grow Cable “before” with (Maiden Hair Creeper (Muehlenbeckia complexa)

Grow Cable “after” with Maiden Hair Creeper (Muehlenbeckia complexa)

Enter the grow cable a simple growing frame of stainless cables threaded through pre-drilled 50mm square hollow galvanized posts, deep concreted to withstand even the most vigorous climbers. Useful height is around 1.8m for most boundaries, allowing for another 300mm exceeding the top cable making more like 2.1m. Although I’ve often included them starting at 2.4m or even 3.2m up to 4m depending on the setting and where unwanted passive sight lines are, providing both end-post wall thicknesses are between 3mm to 4mm to withstand maximum pull at either end.

Maiden Hair Creeper (Muehlenbeckia complexa) before, using black pvc coated mesh

Maiden Hair Creeper (Muehlenbeckia complexa) uncut

Maiden Hair Creeper (Muehlenbeckia complexa) and cut

For best non transparent coverage from near ground, rather than allowing leaders to rush to the top cable, wind them around the lowest one instead. This way you are better assured of avoiding ‘top crowding’ where most growth bunches across an uppermost cable, creating more self shading than ideal. This causes the first 2m of height to leaf drop, leaving that fence you wanted to conceal exposed and forward growing space too root ridden for companion plants to succeed within the climber overhang.

Needless to say, self adhesion to masonry-like boundary and house walls might seem a good idea at the time but beware, some like English Ivy (Hedera helix), Cats Claw Creeper (Dolichandra unguis-cati), Creeping Fig (Ficus pumila) and Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) might easily take the surface they are stuck to with them if you ever have the need for the two to part company.

That said, I can think of few free standing shrubs that lend the same carefree insouciance to any garden setting, the more severe, formal or hard edged modern, the more pleasing the contrast.

Watch the video: How Did I Revived My Madhumalti shrub plant growthRangoon shrub plant


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