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Rogersia

Rogersia


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Rogersia (Rodgersia) is a unique perennial plant from the Saxifrage family. It is found on the coast of the Japanese islands, China and South Korea. Wild stands stand out against the background of other vegetation with wide foliage dissected into lobes and attract attention.

Some species of Rogers climb shady forest lawns, where the sun's rays touch them only in the morning and evening. The flower, due to its ability to survive in the shade, will perfectly decorate the remote corners of the garden. The flowering stage is accompanied by the blooming of beautiful long inflorescences that exquisitely surround the crown.

Description of the plant

The main advantage of Rogers is its powerful pivotal root system. The older the bushes, the more root branches containing buds are formed. Stems are spreading and erect, widely bent to the sides. Growth in the wild under favorable weather conditions can reach up to 1.5 m.

In addition to a strong rhizome, the flower has feathery large leaves. The length of the plates in adult specimens sometimes reaches half a meter. Petiole leaves with a long base are colored green or red. The color changes throughout the season and depends on the ambient temperature, and the shape resembles a chestnut leaf.

Vigorous flowering is expected in mid-summer and lasts for several weeks. Blooming panicles, collected from numerous small buds, rise above the crown at this time. The petals are purple, white or beige. Rogersia's scent wafts far beyond the garden. When the bud heads wilt, the bushes will begin to grow foliage with renewed vigor.

In place of the pollinated ovaries, tiny stellate achenes appear, covered with a light green skin, which begins to turn red over time.

Rogersia - a plant for a shady garden

Types and varieties of Rogers with photos

According to botanical research, it was possible to identify 8 main species of Rogers, not counting the decorative varieties.

Rogersia chestnut or horse chestnut (Rodgersia aesculifolia)

The flower is very popular among domestic gardeners. The height of leafy shoots ranges from 0.8 to 1.8 m. The leaf blades are similar to the horse chestnut. Long petioles, on which the leaves are attached, grow over the entire surface of the stem. The plates shimmer in the light with a bronze coating. In the summer months, the pattern disappears, but by autumn it reappears on the leaves. The height of the peduncles is from 1.2 to 1.4 m. Pink or white paniculate inflorescences look thick and lush.

The most common varieties of this type of Rogers include Henrici, but its height is slightly less than that of the original species. Due to the dark petioles, the leaves acquire a faint coffee hue. With the arrival of autumn, the greenery fades and becomes a bronze tone. Inflorescences are formed from cream or pink petals. The difference in color depends on the composition of the soil.

Rogersia pinnata (Rodgersia pinnata)

A semi-shrub of medium length. At the peak of flowering, the crown height does not exceed 60 cm. The leaves are divided into lobes, like those of rowan leaves. The ends of the plates in the warm season are covered with a red canvas. The buds are creamy or purple in tone. The plant shows a tendency to bloom later than other species. Among the most famous varieties of Rogers pinnate, it is worth highlighting:

  • Borodin - flaunts with white thick panicles;
  • Chocolate Wings - blooms with red or pink buds, which at the end of the season transform into fragrant chocolate ovaries;
  • Superba - the plant is characterized by massive pink clusters of flowers, edged with a strip of brick shade.

Rogersia podophyllum or podophyllum (Rodgersia podophylla)

Perennial easily tolerates dry weather. The crown is capable of lengthening up to one and a half meters. Bronze leaves have a glossy sheen. When the bushes begin to bloom, the shoots are covered with creamy paniculate buds.

Reproduction of Rogers

Rogersia reproduces either by seed or vegetatively.

Growing from seeds

Seed propagation will require endurance and patience. Without preparatory work, the seed will not bring results. The sowing depth should be no more than 2 cm. The containers must be filled with a nutritious and breathable substrate. It is allowed to store containers with seedlings under a canopy in the fresh air so that the seeds can properly stratify. Then the containers are brought to the veranda or to another room where the air temperature does not exceed 15 ° C.

The first shoots should be expected after a couple of weeks. Seedlings that have grown by 10 cm dive into different pots or into cups. When the month of May comes, young plants need fresh air, so they are transferred to the site directly in pots, and in September they are transplanted. The bushes will delight the owners with flowering only 3-4 years after planting.

Dividing the bush

Strongly overgrown Rogersia bushes need separation. This procedure allows you to rejuvenate and multiply the culture. It is better to plan the event in the spring or autumn. In the spring, the cuttings are allowed to be planted immediately in the ground, and for the winter the seedlings are left in containers filled with soil. The mother bush is dug up, shaken off the ground and the rhizome is cut, keeping at least one bud in each segment.

Cuttings

For grafting, take a leaf and lubricate the tip of the petiole with a growth stimulant. Then immersed in moist, soft soil. When the roots appear, the seedling is transferred to the site along with an earthen clod.

Planting Rogers outdoors

The optimal method of planting Rogers is a shady nook that is away from sunlight and protected from drafts.

A light, drained substrate rich in nutrients is ideal for this crop. Planting a flower is organized next to water bodies, but do not allow the roots to come into contact with water. Groundwater too close has a negative impact on the bushes. The site is dug up in advance, leveled and sprinkled with peat and compost. Dense loams are diluted with sand or gravel.

The depth of planting Rogers in the open field is about 7 cm. Since the bushes tend to grow, they are planted at a distance of at least 80 cm from each other. The procedure is completed with abundant watering and mulching of the top layer.

Rogers care

Caring for Rogers in the garden is quite within the power of novice gardeners.

Watering

Perennial prefers frequent and abundant watering, drying out has a detrimental effect on the development of foliage and shoots. On hot sunny days, greens respond well to spraying.

The soil

The soil will retain moisture by covering the area with mulch. Weeds in this case will not be able to disrupt the growth of seedlings. Instead of mulching, you will have to weed regularly so that the culture does not overgrow.

Fertilizers

If the soil is nutritious enough to provide the roots with the necessary nutrition, it makes no sense to carry out additional fertilizing. In spring, the soil is enriched with compost and mineral fertilizers. Repeated feeding is performed during the period of activation of vegetative processes. They should contain copper, potassium, zinc, magnesium, nitrogen and phosphorus.

Wintering

As a rule, severe frosts do not harm the shrub. However, it is still worth preparing the plant for wintering. The ground parts are cut off, leaving a rare crown in the center, which is covered with peat or fallen leaves, and in winter - with snow. In frosty winters, the bushes are wrapped in non-woven material.

Diseases and pests

The susceptibility to disease in Rogers is practically not found. If the soil is excessively waterlogged, rot quickly develops in the roots. Sick foliage and shoots will have to be removed and burned outside the site so that the disease does not spread to healthy plantings, and the plant is sprayed with a fungicidal solution. It should be remembered that slugs like to settle in the shade. Insects eat the juicy greens on the bushes until the stems are completely bare. In the fight against slugs, ash and crushed eggshells are used.

Rogersia in Landscaping

The wide leaf blades of Rogers are hard to miss. The flower is placed in the shade of trees, along the border of artificial reservoirs, fences, next to buildings and other fences. Dense variegated vegetation serves as an excellent backdrop for any flower bed, where ferns, bells, periwinkle, lungwort or undersized coniferous shrubs flaunt. The gaps between the trees are quickly filled with sprawling shoots adorned with lush flowering panicles.


Rogersia - gardening

How do plants exist in nature? They do not grow chaotically in a forest, meadow or swamp, but form certain communities, or so-called ecological groupings. The principle of their survival is due to the fact that this group of plants requires similar living conditions - moisture, light, quantity and quality of soil. The selected conditions in a given location are usually not suitable for all plants. Those that are "in the subject" feel great. The "superfluous" ones either drop out, or keeping them alive requires a lot of effort from us. For example, daffodils under an apple tree grow beautifully into a carpet, but a peony or a rose under a birch will never feel "at ease".
Therefore, when creating a composition, it is advisable to take into account the "principle of sociality" of the plants that we want to plant nearby.
Also in nature, these groups often form next to a large tree.

It is not only a tree that can become the center of a natural plant grouping. Large shrubs, a clump of cereals, even a group of stones - all this forms certain conditions around itself, which can be quite different from conditions in other parts of the garden. For example, near large stones, temperature changes, both seasonal and even daily, become sharper. And under the wall of a wooden house, especially on the south side or under the protection of large dense bushes, the microclimate softens - more thermophilic species can survive here.
Let's take a look at this topic - what and under what trees can be planted so that later all your life you will not be engaged in the “survival” of the planted material.

CONIFEROUS.
Under evergreen conifers, light conditions hardly change throughout the year. Under some conifers, such as the FIR, the deep shadow is further enhanced by the dryness of the soil. In addition, there is a dense layer of needles and an acidic reaction of the soil. Therefore, as far as spruce is concerned, sometimes it is so difficult to find beautiful flowers here that it is best to abandon this idea and use beautiful stones and driftwood.

There is much more light and water under the crown of the PINE. Therefore, it will be an ideal location for heathers, rhododendrons and some species of lilies. They all value good soil ventilation. It is only necessary to take into account that the pine actively drains the soil, therefore frequent watering is necessary in the summer, but on the contrary, during autumn rains or spring floods, this is a plus.
Also, under the pine tree, the peony Maryin root will feel very well.

When planting plants near a pine that require organic-rich soil, do not plant close to the trunk, from such soil the root collar of the pine can rot. For the same reason, you should not mulch the near-trunk zone with humus, only coniferous litter is permissible. But along the periphery of the crown projection, on the contrary, it is useful to add organic matter, the pine will respond with active growth, lush branching and bright color of the needles.

It is good to plant light-loving heathers and erica under small conifers.
Under large conifers, you can also plant - orchids (lyubka, orchis, shoes), lingonberries, common heather, erika, marsh rosemary, narrow-leaved blueberries, marsh myrtle, white-leaved white-leaved.

FRUIT.
Fruit trees, especially modern early-growing varieties on low-growing rootstocks, have a well-developed superficial root system. Therefore, it is better to plant here spring-flowering plants that do not require frequent uprooting and planting: daffodils, kandyks, spring anemones, corydalis, Greig's, Foster's and Kaufman's tulips.
In the summer, let there be ground cover grasses - they will retain moisture, and the fruits that have fallen will be easy to collect. Moreover, in the fall, fallen leaves and rotting fruits are usually removed under the crowns, since they serve as a source of infection. Therefore, it will be bad here for perennials with juicy underground organs, lilies, peonies and irises, their roots react to any infection.
It is better not to plant shrubs under the fruit trees at all - they will prevent you from digging up the near-trunk circle (if, of course, you are going to do this).

WIDE-LEAVED TREES.
Broad-leaved - "patrons" of ephemeroids, early flowering plants that spend most of the year underground and wake up only for a few weeks in the spring, while it is still light under the crowns. In addition, the root system of these trees is relatively deep, which makes it possible to weed and replant herbaceous plants under the maple, elm and linden.
Here you can plant daffodils, corydalis, Pushkinia, Chionodoxa, Galanthus, Scylla.
Ordinary bulbous plants, which require annual digging, are also not prohibited here.
Summer here comes the time of large shade-tolerant forest plants - bells, aconites, buzulniks. Under the dense crowns, optimal humidity is maintained, especially if the fallen leaves have not been removed, which creates a layer of natural organic mulch and forms a natural microclimate.
It will be good for such large-sized owners as Rogers, Kupena and Lunar.
Of the shrubs, black elderberry, hazel, honeysuckle, those that require fertile soil are good.

There are some minor cons to consider. For example, because of the beautiful colored foliage that fell in autumn, plants that also turn bright colors in autumn will not look good here.
Also, the fallen leaves of some species have features that are not very pleasant for other plants. For example, oak foliage is rich in tannins, rotting slowly - this can interfere with the growth of ground cover grasses. And the carpet of fallen aspen leaves is so tightly packed during the winter that it can hinder the growth of other plants and the flow of air into the soil.

BIRCH.
Birch, like pine, is able to extract water and nutrition from the poorest soil. Unlike pine, it more easily tolerates soil compaction and oxygen depletion. Therefore, pampered garden plants usually cannot compete with birch, although we often want to plant flowers against the background of its white trunks.
Bells, dicenter, acidantera look great here.
There can be three options for solving the problem:
- constant soil enrichment and increased watering of the flower garden, to which the birch roots have access,
-container culture either
- selection of plants that are less demanding on soil fertility and moisture: perennial carnations, drought-resistant cereals.
Birch grows very quickly in a fertilized place. This, of course, is beautiful, but you must understand whether you are ready to make sacrifices for the sake of a white-barrel beauty!

Of the shrubs, spireas, euonymus, broom, chubushnik are compatible with birch - they are relatively drought-resistant.

GENERAL RULES FOR A FLOWER UNDER TREES.
-When preparing the soil under trees with a deep root system (oak, linden, maple), the soil can be dug up and freed from roots and weeds.

-Under a spruce, willow, cherry, where there are many superficially located roots, deep digging is undesirable. It is especially important not to disturb the roots of conifers. In this case, the weeds can be removed with a roundup or by closing the trunk circle for the whole season with an opaque material, although, for example, this will not save you from sleepiness, only roundup helps from it.

-Since weeding under these trees will be difficult, in the future, prepare to possibly mulch the plantings annually.

GROW WELL UNDER ANY TREES:

SPRING FLOWERING - May lily of the valley, common primrose, spring primrose, European swimsuit, Asian swimsuit, liverwort.
SUMMER BEAUTIFUL - wrestler, aconite, toothed buzulnik, Przewalski's buzulnik, astilbe, broad-leaved bell.
FANS - ostrich, male duckweed, female kochedyzhnik.
SOIL COVER - yellow zelenchuk, ivy budra, European hoof, small periwinkle, creeping tenacious.

And of course, you can do container gardening under any trees.


Fern garden

This garden leaves an impression of wild and at the same time very exuberant. It is located between the empty wall of the house and the fence, under the shade of spherical hornbeams.

The composition of the garden is dominated by perennials: Rogersia with large chestnut-like leaves. Between them are large areas of medium and small ferns. The lowest layer is formed by stripes of low ferns. Among this thicket there is a path of crushed stones overgrown with styloid bryozoan. The walls of the house and the fence are entwined with ivy, which in autumn forms a fiery background of the garden.


Rogersia

Rogersia (Rodgersia) - one of the most interesting perennials for garden design, belonging to the Stonefragment family (Saxifragaceae)... This genus includes only 8 species that grow in the mountain humid forests of China, Korea and Japan.

The genus is named in honor of Admiral John Rogers, who, after an expedition to China in 1885, brought Rogers podophyllum to the United States, from where it soon came to Britain.

It is customary to appreciate these plants for the unique beauty of finger-dissected or finger-lobed leaves - very large, up to 50 cm in diameter, towering on long petioles, textured due to venation, changing color from bronze to green, and by autumn - to brown. However, this is not very fair. During the flowering period, in the middle of summer, fluffy paniculate inflorescences, towering above the plants, balance the large foliage and give the entire appearance of the plant an airiness. In addition, the flowers have a pleasant aroma and stay on the plant much longer than the flowering lasts, which already lasts up to 20 days. One of the species of Rogers was once confused with astilba, why, then, is its flowering valued higher?

In Russian gardens, these exotic oriental plants are still rare, although gardeners from other countries have long been using them to create interesting compositions and accent plantings. Rogersia always attracts attention with its uniqueness, size and beauty, moreover, it tolerates weak sunlight very well, therefore it is grown mainly under the canopy of trees and in other shaded places.

Rogers podophyllum, or hundred-leaf (Rodgersia podophyll), with which the world met earlier than others, has a characteristic foliage shape, reminiscent of the foliage of the podophyllum of the thyroid, with jagged ends of the lobes. They are finger-dissected, reach 40 cm in diameter, at the beginning of regrowth they have a beautiful bronze tint, then turn green, and in autumn they are painted in bright bronze-red tones. During the flowering period, numerous creamy, then whitening panicles appear. There are varieties Rotlaub, Smaragd, Pagode, Richard Lee.

However, the most widespread in culture was Rogers horse chestnut (Rodgersia aesculofolia). It is most suitable for growing in conditions of short summers and harsh winters, in the middle lane and even to the north. The height of an adult plant during flowering reaches 1.4 m, and before the formation of inflorescences - about 1 m. As the name suggests, its leaves are similar to those of a horse chestnut, grow up to 50 cm in diameter. The color of young foliage is saturated with purple and bronze shades, which are later replaced by a thick green color. The plant is very spectacular, blooms in the middle of summer, releasing upward paniculate inflorescences of white color, which do not lose their decorative effect with flowering. There are few varieties, for example Elegans, Henry. More hybrids with other species.

Rogers feathery (Rodgersia pinnata) differs from the previous species in smaller dimensions - 1-1.2 m high, smaller (up to 30 cm in diameter) and less embossed, with narrower lobes, leaves. The leaves are attached to the petiole not at one point, as in other species, but in pairs. When blooming, it also has a purple tint, then turns green. Panicles are white or pinkish. This species has the largest number of varieties that differ in the color of inflorescences (from white to red), saturation of brown tones in color. Popular varieties are Alba, Superba, Elegant, Rubra, Cally Salmon, Fireworks, Hercules, Bloody Mary and others. One of the most interesting varieties is Chocolate Wings, which changes color several times during the growing season - from brown through green to bronze, red and brown again.

Rogersia elderflower (Rodgersia sambucifolia) differs from other species in that it has not finger-separate, but finger-dissected leaves resembling an elderberry. Its height is up to 1.2 m. It is interesting in that it partially retains the bronze tint of foliage and petioles throughout the entire growing season. There are varieties - Mounain Select, Rothaut (aka Red Skin).

A number of varieties are obtained by hybridizing different species - Bronze Peacock, Dark Pokers, Irish Bronse, La Blanche, Smaragd and others.

Earlier, Rogers lamellar was also referred to this genus, which is now distinguished as an independent genus Astilboides, which includes this only representative - Alstilboides lamellar (Astilboides tabularis).

Rogersia is recommended to be planted in rich, well-fertilized organic matter and cultivated soil, preferably in shady and humid places. It grows even in a fairly dense shade, but does not like the wind, so it is often planted near a wall or fence, under the protection of tall shrubs or trees. All species are rhizomatous, have a developed, abundantly branched surface root system, therefore they love mulching. All species grow compactly, only Rogersia podophyllum can "scatter" to the sides, since it has longer rhizomes.

Care consists in removing dry or yellowed parts of the plant, periodically feeding and moistening the soil. Stems with faded inflorescences are cut to the first leaf. In general, the plant is unpretentious and grateful for the slightest attention.

For the winter, only Rogers feathery requires reliable shelter, other species are enough to sprinkle with peat or leaf litter before the first serious frosts in the absence of snow. Their winter hardiness is estimated at -23 o C, but varieties may be less hardy, it is better to cover them more thoroughly.

In spring or autumn, Rogersia can be propagated by dividing the bush, planting cuttings to a depth of 5 cm in prepared, loosened fertilized soil. You can also use the division of rhizomes. Cutting pieces up to 10 cm long from a healthy, strong root in late autumn, they are planted in seedling boxes with the ground and left to winter in a cold room, where the air temperature is kept at the level of weak positive values. In the spring, during germination, they are transplanted into separate containers, and at the beginning of summer they are placed in a school.

Rogersia is propagated by seeds, taking into account that different species, being in close proximity to each other, are easily pollinated, so experienced gardeners try to carry them to different corners of the garden. In addition, there are hybrids in culture, the seed offspring of which will be mostly different from the parent plant. Freshly harvested seeds are sown in boxes and left to winter under the snow to undergo stratification. In the spring they are germinated, then dived, transferred to a ridge for growing, and transplanted to a permanent place only after two years. But seedlings grow slowly, flowering can only be expected in 3-4-year-old plants.

Rogers are long-lasting plants. They can stay in one place for many years, and they only become more powerful. This is one of the best plants for a shady garden, beautifully distinguished by its foliage among the plantings of other shade-loving perennials. Perfect for decorating the shore of a garden pond, where humid air and soil favor it.


A site about a garden, a summer residence and houseplants.

A spectacular look, patient character and a chic find for those who are passionate about garden design - a set of qualities, you see, is very promising.

This is the story I had last spring with an autumn seedling. There is a peg at the fence, and I forgot what was planted under it.

Okay, I think it will come up - we'll figure it out. Indeed, sprouts appeared in May. As luck would have it, it rained, and it became cold. May, June - no light. The beginning of July - wild balsams, my "siderates", grow vigorously by self-seeding.

There is no time for these incomprehensible shoots, at least to deal with tulips and peonies, everything falls, it is necessary to tie up and weed. I began to clear this jungle, that is, mercilessly rip out the balsams and run away. And what turned out to be?

It turned out that large, powerful, deeply dissected leaves on long petioles were growing beautifully at that peg in the thickets of "siderata", and soon this young bush and a flower arrow, also powerful, released. Well, I think, only this was not enough for me: the meadowsweet in person! Have I planted it myself in the fall? Frankly, the disappointment was strong at first. But my bush bloomed with a powerful panicle of small pink-red flowers and began to look pretty beautiful.

And then one day, already in August, the name literally flashed in my memory -rogersia! I remembered that I was looking for her seeds the year before last, but they were not on sale. And then it dawned on me that I had not planted a meadowsweet at all, but the most real Rogers. I remembered that in the fall they gave me a shoot of its root, then it flew out of my head, it's good that the plant reminded of itself. It happens!

I knew about Rogers for a long time. This, of course, is not a peony, not a rose, not a lily, it does not shine with exquisite inflorescences, but it is good, like the hosts, with its greenery. However, it blooms not bad at all.

This plant would continue to remain only in botanical gardens and among advanced collectors, if every year more and more landscaped gardens created according to design projects did not appear on the summer cottages of wealthy people. Simple flower growers also try to keep up, so unusual plants have gone into the course: catchy or majestic, harmoniously filling the space, blooming beautifully or attracting attention with their foliage. Rogersia is one of such plants in demand by the fashion.

It is widely used both in mixborders and ridges, and in single plantings. In culture, the most spectacular types are most often used - Rogersia staple, horse chestnut, feathery, elderberry, Nepalese... It is a powerful perennial plant with a long, thick and wide rhizome. The peduncle rises significantly above the leaves and bears a paniculate inflorescence of white, pink or pink-red fragrant flowers.

Open sunny places are contraindicated for Rogers. It grows remarkably well under the canopy of shady trees and taller leafy bushes.

Designers recommend planting it next to a hydrangea, surrounded by buzulniks (better than Przewalski), large ferns (ostrich, osmunda, bladderwort), hosts and heuchera also do not interfere. By pure coincidence, I planted this Roger Delenka in this particular company.

I don’t know the species of my Rogers, but judging by the flowering, this is Henry’s Rogers with folded foliage and pink inflorescences. Flowering began in the first year after the autumn planting, probably only due to constant rains. Usually the plant comes into full force only in the third year. Rogersia does not tolerate dry soil, the ground must always be wet, so it is advisable to mulch the bush, and you should not forget about watering in dry weather.

Rogersia's rhizome is powerful and wide, it grows rapidly. For free growth, she should have enough space, she should not be crowded.

Rogersia is a southern plant, so it must be prepared for wintering. In the fall, I cut off all the leaves (the peduncle was cut off even earlier), cover the roots with humus or loose earth, and then, when it freezes, cover them with dry leaves. In the spring I take off the shelter, but I make sure that the spring frosts do not damage the seedlings, that is, I cover it again during frosts. In general, Rogers does not create problems, it is not difficult to grow it. I think it was not in vain that Admiral John Roger, after whom the Rogers was named, brought it from China!

Plants of tall growth are suitable companions to Rogers: with them they will create a single horizontal surface. The motley mess, which is formed by rogers of various species and other shade-tolerant perennials (this can be the red horned goat weed, lungwort, periwinkle), looks beautiful. Rogersia is best planted near bodies of water.


Early spring

  • pruning of dead, diseased and damaged plant parts after winter
  • aeration and scarification of the lawn, as well as its fertilization
  • fertilization of plants growing season
  • regular watering of plants and lawn - these gardens use auto-irrigation systems with drip lines and sprinklers
  • systematic lawn mowing - at least once a week
  • regular weed cleaning - weeds can drown out low perennials
  • spraying with insecticidal and antifungal drugs - in case of detection of diseases or pests on plants
  • removal of faded stems, which will lengthen the flowering period of plants in autumn
  • removal of dead stems and dead plant parts
  • raking up fallen leaves
  • shielding shrubs sensitive to frost, such as rhododendrons

Watch the video: Rodgersia hobukastanilehine


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