How we created the water garden
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OUR "GARDEN OF WATER"
Our garden is located on the Karelian Isthmus. There are low places in it - this is a former swamp with a one and a half meter layer of peat. Moreover, they make up most of the garden area. But there is also a sandy mountain. The total height difference in the garden is 4.5 meters. Somewhere in the lower third of this height is an aquifer in the soil.
All these features created a lot of difficulties in the development of the site, but they also made it possible to make it interesting.
Our garden is a year older than the six-year-old granddaughter, and the family needed it in order to raise the child in nature. I wanted it to be beautiful there, so that the whole large family would like to be there. Fortunately, all adult family members have found points of application in the garden for their creative pursuits. The husband builds a bathhouse, a terrace and does all the work related to wood. The son-in-law is a great specialist in creating a water supply system, he also built a magnificent reservoir, his daughter is the main builder of paths and platforms. My task is to make it all beautiful, organically fit into our complex landscape. I am responsible for everything related to plants and soil cultivation.
During the development of the site, many problems had to be solved, the most important of which was to turn the excess water on the site from trouble to good. Successive steps in land reclamation have led to many mistakes, but now we can safely say that we know well how to solve similar problems in a similar situation.
It was possible to create a natural reservoir, excess waters of the site are collected in it, and then they are withdrawn with the help of a stream into a reclamation ditch. The water surface attracts the eye, soothes. The reservoir has become the main decorative dominant of our garden.
Its dimensions are fifteen square meters, which is quite enough for swimming for the whole family on hot summer days. Perhaps you will not find a description of the structure of our reservoir in any special edition. The steep peat walls (but not the bottom) of the reservoir are covered with a thick plastic wrap so that the peat does not come into contact with water and does not crumble. The film along the perimeter of the reservoir is pressed with a stone, while it is fixed on the vertical walls with a stone. The water comes from drainage ditches throughout the site that collect mainly water from the iron-rich aquifer. Another source of water is the bottom of the reservoir. And since there is also peat, I had to put lutrasil on the bottom, on it - crushed stone, and on the crushed stone - again thick lutrasil, on which granite screenings were poured so that, while swimming in the reservoir, not to injure your legs with rubble
There were many problems, and not all of them were resolved. For example, you will have to solve another one related to the reservoir. The water coming from the iron-bearing aquifer contains components that turn into an unpleasant gelatinous sediment that accumulates in huge quantities at the bottom and periodically floats to the surface. We will have to withdraw this part of the water entering the reservoir beyond its limits - into a bypass ditch. And until we figured out how best to bring this to life, last spring (to get rid of the accumulated rusty sediment) we had to pump out water from the reservoir twice.
In one of the issues of the magazine "Flora Price" in an article about a Japanese garden, when listing possible mottos and names of a favorite garden, the name "garden of water" was mentioned. This name sunk into the soul, and now ideas and thoughts are swarming in our heads. What if we continue to develop the theme of water in our garden? The arsenal of solutions can be endless - cascades, streams, grottoes, channels. And even in our conditions, reservoirs of small sizes are possible at different levels along the height of the site, since the aquifer is not located in its lower part, but at a height of 1.5 meters higher. And in the highest part of the site, on a sandy mountain, you can make a reservoir using film. It is a pity that there is not enough information and knowledge in this area. We will search, read, invent.
I remember how persistently Igor Vasilyevich Pavlov (known to most gardeners of St. Petersburg) recommended in his lectures on landscape design to find everyone the secret motto of the garden, which would express his main idea. Now I understood the meaning of this advice better and completely agreed with it. After choosing your motto, you get rid of unnecessary trial and error, you have a clear and understandable goal in front of you. All that remains is to act without doubting anything.
How many interesting truths and discoveries await the enthusiastic gardener on the way to creating his garden! How interesting it is to grow plants from seeds, herbaceous perennials and annuals, shrubs, trees. My gardening experience has led me to the truth that the best way is to grow plants from seed in separate containers, not on a ridge. This way you will never lose seeds, and the best conditions for development are created for plants.
I made many interesting discoveries in the general approach to building a garden. Without plant-free spaces, it is not interesting. In a young garden, it is imperative to quickly create verticals (with the help of vines, for example). The garden should have clear lines (fences, paths that do not merge with the green environment) and boundaries of individual spaces, this creates order and organization in the garden.
And also, the boundaries of the site and individual zones should be indicated by tall plants, this creates a background that is pleasing to the eye, it organizes the space.
You should not make the garden the same as that of others, it is better to listen to yourself, to the needs and preferences of your family. But the choice of such a solution should be preceded by the accumulation of knowledge on the basis of what he saw, read, heard. Until now, I do not consider myself ready for planning a garden on a slope, I have not yet accumulated information.
You should not create a garden from a huge number of different plants. It's best to find ones that do well in your garden environment, so they look good. To do this, it is better to try everything new in a wiring ridge. And if a plant dies in your garden, perhaps this plant is not yours, not for your garden.
What is my garden to me? This is my passion and way of being, a way of making friends, respect for loved ones and self-respect.
V. Ogorodnikova, gardener, winner of the competition
First feeding of tomatoes after dropping off
Β the end of May - the beginning of June, that is, in 2-3 weeks after planting the seed of tomatoes in the ground, you can make the first feeding of tomatoes. The race has already taken root, Show in full. went into growth - at the very time to help the plants to gain strength and turn into a full-fledged bush. At this stage, you can use nitrogen fertilizers (in small amounts) in combination with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Option 1. For 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters of liquid mullein, 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska.
Option 2. For 10 liters of water, 0.5 liters of chicken manure, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate.
Episode 3. For 10 liters of water 2 liters of herbal mud of nettle or comfrey.
Option 4. For 10 liters of water 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska.
Option 5. For 10 liters of water, 50 grams of ash, 30 grams of superphosphate, 0.3 grams of boric acid, 0.3 grams of manganese sulfate, 1 liter of mullein.
Option 6. In a 200 liter barrel, 1 bucket of mullein, 2 shovels of ash, 2 kilograms of yeast, 3 liters of milk whey, 4-5 buckets of nettle. Infuse within a week.
Option 7. For 10 liters of water 1 tbsp. spoon of nitrophoska, 0.5 liter of mullein, 0.5 teaspoon of manganese sulfate, 0.5 teaspoon of boric acid. Each bush is poured into 0.5 liters of ready-to-feed feed.
Supplements of tomatoes during budding, flowering and fruit setting
As soon as buds and flowers appear on the tomatoes, the "potassium-phosphorus" era begins.
Nothing so often is required by our tomatoes, like phosphorus and, especially, potassium.
Option 1. For 10 liters of water, a half-liter can of ash.
Option 2. For 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate.
Option 3. For 10 liters of water, 2 tablespoons of wood ash and 1 tablespoon of superphosphate.
Option 4. For 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska, 1 teaspoon of dry potassium humate powder.
Option 5. For 10 liters of water, 10 grams of potassium nitrate, 25 grams of magnesium sulfate.
Option 6. With 10 liters of water, 10-15 grams of potassium monophosphate (KH2ΡΟ4).
Option 7. With 10 liters of water, 10 grams of potassium magnesium sulfate (potassium magnesium sulfate K2SΟ4 + MgSΟ4).
Episode 8. For 2.5 liters of warm water, 100 grams of pressed yeast dissolved in warm water and half a glass of sugar. Mix everything, cover the container with oil and leave in a warm place. Shake occasionally. When fermentation is over (approximately after a week), for feeding 1 glass of mixture is diluted in 10 liters of water together with a half-liter can of ash.
Pour 0.5-1 liter of nutrient mixture under each bush.
To attract insect pollinators to flowering tomatoes and better bind fruit, you can sprinkle the plants with a mixture of boric acid and sugar.
One liter of boiling water will require 100 grams of sugar and 2 grams of boric acid.
All you need to mix well and cool the solution to room temperature.
If it is hot and because of it the flowers are crumbling, it is recommended to spray with a solution of boric acid at a rate of 5 grams per 10 liters of water.
And one more thing: from the middle of July, all tomato supplements must be stopped, as well as abundant watering. Β this period, any additional food and moisture contributes to the growth of green mass, and the ripening of fruits, on the contrary, is delayed.
Got rid of weeds at the site in 1 day!
Good afternoon, my dear readers! Soon the hedge season will begin and, in this regard, I devote my blog to all those who are suffering from weeds at this time. Weeds are no longer a problem for me, Show in full. therefore I will share with you my little secret of success.
To begin with, I am an inveterate gardener, although I have lived in the city all my life, I spent many years spending summer cannulas at my grandmother's and, in particular in the garden, instilled in me a love for this difficult task. Therefore, I did not leave without myself.
From the very childhood I remembered the most important rule from my grandmother: “There should not be weeds in the beds!”. Therefore, for the cleanliness of the garden, especially during sowing, I followed very closely.
But a couple of years ago, apparently in the morning, we were infested with one of the most terrible weeds that can only be - birch, or as scientists call it a field loach. The nastiest and fastest growing weed you can imagine.
But it will grow in a couple of days, its roots are long and it is very difficult to completely remove the root, and most importantly, if you let it grow, it will add to your entire harvest. And so, he appeared at my place.
I fought with him for a long time, tried all the natural recipes - it did not help, I bought various poisons for weeds in the store - it did not help. As a result, I had to give up and reconcile, and when I came on weekends to observe the vegetable garden overgrown with this loach.
One summer the birch even destroyed the entire harvest of the disc. All in one week, she crushed her.
I didn't know what to do. Every day after work for the city I could not go, and it was also dangerous to leave vegetables for a week with a birch. And I started looking hard for a way until I talked to my colleague about this problem. As it turned out, she was faced with the same situation as for me and already managed to find a way to remove the birch:
“Only one remedy didn't help - Biogard against weeds. One package was enough for the whole city, and the birch died in one day! "
At first, I did not believe that the anti-copny agent can help in 1 day. After all, I transformed ten of them. But all the same decided to refine, where it can be found. The colleague guided the purchase of Biogapd.
All the same, I ordered myself a package of this anti-copny agent Biogard on the official website. When he came, I then dissolved it with water, as it is written in the instructions, and went to search the city. I controlled for about 20 minutes, I thought the effect would be immediate, but I didn't notice anything. As a result, I left the city at rest and went to do my own business.
The next morning I went out into the city and did not turn my eyes. All the birch and the rest of the trees lay on the ground yellow, dried out, as if they had been pulled out a few days ago and left to the full. Quickly removing all the dead piles from the garden, I saw how my garden had become clean! But to be happy about it, I didn’t work, I decided to see what will happen in a week, suddenly grow.
Having returned in a week and went out into the city, I had a little bit of my cheek. There was not a trace of a birch, in general, no copnyak, not a twine. From the earth, except for the potatoes and other vegetables, nothing is grown.
For all the summer I have never gone out on the shelf any more, only on the grill. And, I noticed that the vegetables became faster. Nobody bothered them anymore. I am sure that this year, too, the copnya will not disturb me, but if they suddenly start growing, I know the assistant who will help me out.
Πoetomu dopogie moi cadovody, if ye, HOW I ctolknulic c takoy zhe copnyakovoy ppoblemoy chto me, if ye uctali ppovodit vyhodnye nA koptochkah, vypyvaya tpavu, kotopaya pactet bez kontsa ppiobpetayte cebe anti-copnyakovoe cpedctvo Biogapd and zabudte ppo nezhelatelnyh goctey navcegda !
How we set up the slope site
Adding an article to a new collection
Leaving the big city to live in the fresh air, listen to birds singing in the morning and admire the flowers in your garden from the window ... This is the dream of many. This is exactly what the family from Samara did.
Marina and Sergey Eremeevs have long dreamed of buying a house. But while the son and daughter were attending school, it was impossible to leave the city. Years passed, children became independent. And then they finally decided: we must move.
Marina, by what criteria did you choose the site?
Since we were both still working, the criteria were set as follows:
- so that it is not very far from the city
- to have a regular bus.
We toured a lot of plots and considered buying a finished home. We chose and thought for a long time. The ecological situation was assessed. It is important for us that the air is clean and that large factories do not work nearby. Finally, we stopped at a cottage village 15 km from the city. Everything suited us: close to work, a regular bus runs regularly, you can get to distant shops by car, and to the nearest one - on foot.
Tell us what size is your site and how did you start planning it?
We have a plot of irregular shape with a size of 14 acres. It so happened that at first we purchased 10 acres of land, and then it turned out that 4 acres of "nobody's" land was adjacent to this site, and we registered it for ourselves.
The planning began with the dumping of the site for the house. They brought about forty KAMAZ clay, and construction began on this site. They decided to build a small, wooden, one-story house. We love wooden houses: they are beautiful and environmentally friendly. In addition, it can be built faster than any other. Why small? To be able to maintain it ourselves later. You can read about how we built the house here.
Did you also bring soil to the site?
For the planning of the site, more than thirty KAMAZ chernozem was brought in. The clay pillow under the house was covered with black earth on all sides. But the difference in height on the site was more than a meter, and there was not enough soil to create a flat area. We decided to make terraces and then reinforce them with retaining walls. Since the level of the road passing along the site was higher than the site itself, a drainage shaft was poured along the road along the edge of the site.
What kind of soil do you have on the site? What is the thickness of the fertile layer?
Our soil is loam with a large amount of stone, its thickness is 30 cm, then clay comes. With such a soil, it was necessary to work well in order to create a garden and a vegetable garden on it.
How did you create the retaining walls? Is there an underlying layer underneath them?
Retaining walls were made of stones and logs. The stones were brought from the nearest quarry in their own car as needed. Since the height of the walls is small, the laying technology is very simple. The site was leveled, some sand was poured in and stones were laid on the cement mortar with a slight slope towards the embankment. There were some doubts that they could "swim" in the rains, but everything is holding up perfectly. These walls were folded in 2017.
The husband laid out all the retaining walls himself. This, of course, is a long process and very laborious. But when you do everything with enthusiasm and knowledge of the matter, the result is always pleasing. We did not regret that we made a garden and a vegetable garden on several levels - it turned out quite interesting.
And by what technology were the walls made of logs exposed? After all, they need to be strengthened, and the tree needs to be processed?
The walls of logs were also made using the simplest technology: they dug a trench equal to the diameter of the tree and set logs into it with a deepening of 20-25 cm into the ground.On the side of the high bed, improvised material was laid to hold the ground (banners, strips of roofing iron, strips cut from plastic beer kegs). The logs were not treated with anything - if necessary, we can replace them.
Did you remove the upper part of the earth from the paths, sprinkle them with sand?
They started by simply laying out the path with flat stones without any surface preparation and hammering it into the ground with a mallet. Then lawn grass was planted between the stones.
But over time, it turned out that the stones go into the ground. And this year, the path in the garden was made according to a different method: they installed a curb, laid geotextiles, poured a layer of sand and then laid flat stones on the sand.
Did you bring soil to the part of the site where the lawn was planned?
When leveling the plot, a layer of chernozem with a thickness of 10-20 cm was poured and lawn grass was planted. There are a great many weeds on it. We, of course, are fighting, but so far they are winning. We also sowed lawn grass all the space under the trees and along the paths. Thus, they got rid of the bare earth and dirty dog paws. It is important for us that there is enough space on the site where grandchildren can walk and dogs can run.
And on those slopes where there are no retaining walls, what plants would you recommend to plant?
The soil perfectly holds the lawn grass. At the very beginning of the creation of the walls, when we had just laid the stones, it started to rain. That's what came out of it:
At this point, there is a large stream of water from the roof of the house. Subsequently, grass was planted here and now everything looks like this:
No traces of water flow. Juniper now streams down the stone steps. It grows very well on the slope and holds the soil.
Dammer's cotoneaster is a creeping evergreen shrub. In height, the plant rises up to 15 cm, and in width it can cover an area of more than 1 m. The leaves are dense and leathery, dark green. The flowers are inconspicuous, which is offset by very beautiful coral-red fruits. On the branches, they persist throughout the winter. The bush is undemanding to soil and place, it can be grown in containers and rockeries.
We also have Daurian juniper growing well. Its root system holds the soil perfectly.
Daurian juniper (stone heather) is an evergreen plant belonging to the Cypress family. This is a low-growing shrub with creeping branches, it grows no higher than 0.5 m. The culture belongs to a ground cover species: shoots in contact with the ground take root.
The slopes were gradually planted with barberry, juniper and other coniferous and deciduous shrubs. Most of the site is occupied by ornamental plants. You can read about how our site looks now, and about all the advantages of suburban life on my channel.
We made sure that a plot with a slope can be a great place to build a house, create a picturesque garden and a wonderful vegetable garden. All the efforts invested will quickly justify themselves with the originality and beauty of the landscape.
Step # 5. Regulation of water regime
As we have already mentioned several times, sandy loam and especially sandy soils do not retain moisture well and quickly overheat and dry out - moisture quickly and aimlessly seeps deep into the soil, bypassing the roots. Therefore, the irrigation regime for plants planted on such overly light and loose soils is very important for the well-being of plantings.
So that plants do not experience a constant deficiency of moisture and nutrients that solvent water brings with it, certain agricultural rules must be followed.
First of all, of course, the moisture capacity of the soil should be increased as much as possible by increasing the cohesion of soil particles - using the methods already described above (mechanical improvement of the structure, mulching, planting green manure). Moreover, this will have to be done not one-time, but systematically, over several years.
If at the moment we are not talking about reclamation of sandy soil, you should focus on the rules of watering. It is clear that such soils need to be watered more often than heavier and more dense ones. Moreover, it is better to do this often, but in small portions, regularly wetting the root layer. It is better to water the plants in the early morning or evening - in the afternoon in the bright sun, to the rapid seepage of water deep into the sandy soil, its accelerated evaporation from the surface will also be added.
Also, do not forget about abundant autumn water-loading irrigation of sandy soils in order to increase their heat capacity.
Competent comprehensive soil improvement requires a lot of time - you can't do it in one season. But regular work for the benefit of the future harvest will definitely pay off - we hope our material will help you with this.
Step # 2. Sowing siderates
One of the universal ways to increase the fertility of absolutely any soil, including sandy, is the use of green manure.
The use of these green fertilizers contributes to the rapid improvement of the structure, quality and fertility of soils. In a short vegetative period, green manure forms a large aboveground mass and root system, which loosens the soil and at the same time prevents it from crumbling. Additionally, they prevent the growth of weeds, protect the soil from weathering and inhibit the development of pathogenic soil microorganisms.
Green manure plants can be sown in spring and early autumn (respectively, before planting the main crops or after harvesting them), and after the green mass regrowth (before flowering), they must be mowed and embedded in the soil in the beds to a depth of about 5-7 cm, as well as in the tree-trunk circles.
To improve the quality of poor and light sandy and sandy loamy soils, it is best to sow the following siderates: legumes (peas, vetch, lupine, sweet peas, beans, clover), cereals (oats, rye, buckwheat) or cabbage (winter rapeseed, rape). In sandy soil, greens quickly rot after burying, forming humus and contributing to the fact that light soils become more cohesive.