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New varieties of tulips, peonies, daffodils and amaryllis

New varieties of tulips, peonies, daffodils and amaryllis


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We present to your attention the amazing varieties of flowers that have just appeared in Ukraine and which you can buy on the FLORIUM.UA website. Think ahead of what you will plant in your garden, balcony or windowsill. We draw your attention to the fact that all plants are distinguished by excellent health and amaze with fantastic color of flowers and leaves!

Tulips

  1. With so many shapes and colors available, it is difficult to choose just one tulip cultivar to grow. And if you really can't make up your mind, treat yourself to brightly colored tulip 'Virichic'created for long-lasting flowering. Its large flower rises on a short stem and combines purple, yellow, white and green colors. From the group - Green-flowered tulips (Viridiflora).
  2. Tulip Albert Heijn (Albert Heijn) named after the most famous supermarket in the Netherlands. Fortunately, a lovely pink flower (not the traditional supermarket blue)! This tulip from the Fosteriana group forms a multitude of pink hues that gradually change from base to tip of the petal. Flowers look great when cut! Ideal for group plantings. Albert Hein's pink tulip looks amazing when paired with muscari like Muscari latifolium. The height of the plant is 45 cm.
  3. Tulip Aleppo unusual coloring of its fringed flowers will make a unique view of the balcony and terrace. Looks good in a company with other red, orange and yellow tulips, as well as with daffodils. Plant height is 40-50 cm.
  4. From their kinsmen tulip Orphanidea Flava has a pretentious appearance. And not only with flowers, but also with leaves. The ‘Flava’ is a short flower growing up to 20 cm in height. From a bulb planted in fertile and permeable soil, a stem grows, which is topped with a yellow flower cup. The edges of the petals have a red blush. The leaves are long and narrow. The botanical tulip Orphanida is the progenitor of many modern varieties.

Daffodils

  1. There is nothing better than a lot of tulips to cheer you up. But tulips are not the only spring bulbous plants that herald an end to dark winter days and bring color to the garden. We've picked a couple of other flowers for inspiration to decorate your garden and celebrate the change of season. Try to grow ‘White Marvel’ daffodil... The most attractive and interesting multi-flowered variety (3-4 flowers per stem). A creamy white, double, ruffled crown with a pale white perianth rises above the dense green foliage. Plant height is only 30-35cm. Blooms from mid-April.
  2. Narcissus Valdrome (Waldrom) - artsy and quirky. The white perianth is almost overshadowed by a large split crown. The crown or crown of the daffodil is what is in the center of the flower, and the perianth lobes are what we mistakenly call the petals. So, the crown of this daffodil is not one-piece, but, as it were, torn by a third of the length or half. It blooms in the middle to the end of the season.
  3. The name of the large-crown Narcissus ‘Skype’ (Skype) you will definitely remember. As well as its appearance. This exquisite variety has a long apricot crown and white petals (perianth lobes).
  4. One of the most spectacular of the Daffodils group with a split crown (Split crown) is daffodil Cum Laude... Creamy white petals frame the cup with very ruffled ruffles. The main color is peach yellow, with a green eye and a rich salmon stripe along the edge with frills. Medium flowering variety.

Peonies

  1. We are glad to present to your attention peony Eliza Lundy... Despite the fact that it appeared in 1975, it is difficult to find it on the Ukrainian market. ‘Eliza Lundy’ is a small peony. Attractive variety due to its beautiful red color.
  2. Peony Moon over Barrington - a special peony with very large flower buds. Flowers up to 20 cm in diameter. They are white in color with a delicate blush and have a delicious aroma. Suitable for very high quality cut. The height of the plant is 100 cm.
  3. On a hybrid peony Pastelegance already in May-June, flowers appear that change color from cream to light yellow with a pink tint. This variety also has very strong stems that can easily carry large flowers. And the plant height is above average.
  4. Flowers peony Soft Salmon Saucer resemble a capsule in shape. They are painted in pale pink and salmon colors, and they have a golden heart of stamens. This elegant peony is rain resistant.

Amaryllis

  1. If you have practically read this article to the end, and have sighed, because you do not have a piece of land, then we hasten to console you. Choose indoor flower bulbs. For example, amaryllis. And we strongly recommend that you pay attention to the ‘Limona’ variety. Its flowers are creamy green, not lemon, as you might think from the name. And some describe the color as "defective yellow". But you will like the plant very much. It is vigorous and the flowers are large and fragrant. In addition, the petals have pink markings.
  2. Terry amaryllis Aquaro (Aquarius) loves light and temperatures around 20-23 ° C. Therefore, a pot with an onion next to the window. This variety forms a very large, densely doubled white-red flower. A plant with magically colored flowers that simply captivates with its appearance.
  3. Easy to grow, amaryllis has strong stems and majestic flowers. Although it is often grown in windowsill pots, it is surprisingly well suited for outdoor cultivation in partial shade. Try the rare and sought after Amaryllis Red Pearl for its unusual red and black flowers.

If we intrigued you and you were inspired to try something new, feel free to choose and order your favorite varieties from a wide range. Yes, do not forget to tell your friends about the opening of the new season in the online store FLORIUM.UA

Literature

  1. Information about Garden Plants
  2. Information on Perennial Plants

Categories: Garden plants Perennials Blooming Bulbous flowers


We make a terry flower garden. Varieties of flowers

The more magnificent and large-scale the flower, the brighter and more beautiful the flowerbed looks, especially if not one representative is terry, but the whole flowerbed. Color, size and shape fade into the background when "full" buds appear in front of you, for which the terry plants are famous. It is the inner density with an abundance of petals that is capable of making a magnificent flower from an ordinary not too mature inflorescence, which significantly increases its significance and scope of use. We offer an original selection of plants with varieties that are so beautiful in the range of terry that they definitely deserve increased attention.


Annual work calendar: flower garden, garden, vegetable garden

See how to care for plants in your flower garden, orchard, and vegetable garden. You also need to arm yourself with the right tools to make your job safe and enjoyable. You have to take care of the plants almost all year round. Only in the winter months - December, January and February - they do not need care. By actually knowing the sequence of tasks, we have confidence that we haven't forgotten anything.

  • Select flowers for the site
  • Purchase seeds and other planting material
  • Inspect the planting material you store (tubers and flower bulbs)
  • Sow small-seeded flower crops with a long growing season on seedlings
  • Check if there is sufficient snow cover for flower gardens and alpine slides. If not, throw snow on them
  • Periodically tamp the snow in the flower beds to destroy the mouse passages (mice in winter can destroy all the roots of perennials).
  • Make plans for future flower beds. Use your free winter time to design a garden plot, draw flower beds, rock gardens, ponds
  • Attend landscape design courses, read gardening and floriculture literature

  • Do an audit of your gardening tools. Defective tools - fix, blunt secateurs or scissors - sharpen, etc. Purchase new pruning shears or delimders, wires and twine as needed.
  • Cut and store the grafting cuttings
  • Attract and care for birds on site
  • Buy mineral fertilizers
  • Re-whitewash trees

  • Consider a plan for placing vegetables on the site
  • Learn the basics of crop rotation
  • Purchase organic and mineral fertilizers used in spring
  • Purchase seedling potting soil
  • Prepare greenhouses and boxes for sowing seeds for seedlings
  • Take care of forcing vegetables

  • It's time to start forcing bulbous crops
  • Sow annual flowers (petunias, begonias, ageratum) on seedlings. Sow seeds in boxes, cover with glass or foil and keep at a temperature of + 18-23 ° C until shoots appear.
  • Blooming indoor plants at this time need additional lighting: place fluorescent lamps above them at a distance of 15-20 cm from them
  • Prepare plant labels and pegs

  • Shake off snow from bushes after snowfalls. Delicate branches break easily under the weight of snow (especially in conifers)
  • Learn about plant protection products, purchase the necessary
  • Immediately repeat the whitewashing of the trunks and skeletal branches of fruit trees, as there is now a significant difference between day and night temperatures
  • Inspect fences to prevent hares from entering the area
  • At the end of the month, start bending and tying branches of young trees to give them a horizontal direction.

  • In the second half of February, start pruning ornamental and fruit trees and shrubs
  • For early greens, plant onions, parsley and celery roots in boxes on a light windowsill. Sow radishes and watercress in greenhouses
  • For winter greenhouses, sow cucumbers and tomatoes on the seedlings. Also time to sow pepper
  • Tidy up your garden tools, buy covering material for greenhouses and greenhouses, buy mineral fertilizers

  • Continue caring for the flowers sown in February
  • Conduct a dive of seedlings
  • Sow annual seeds in a room or greenhouse
  • Sow fast-growing and early-flowering species into the ground in a permanent place and those that do not tolerate transplantation (beetroot, medicinal poppy, sweet peas)
  • Continue caring for forcing bulbs
  • Plant cannes and dahlia tubers for germination

  • Planting fruit trees and shrubs
  • Fertilization of fruit plants
  • Pruning fruit-bearing trees
  • Pruning berry bushes after planting
  • Protection of garden plants from diseases and pests
  • Make and hang up bird nesting houses

  • Sow open field vegetables on seedlings: peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, cucumbers
  • Cut out the crops sown in February
  • Prepare potato tubers for planting - vernalization of tubers

  • Organize your flower garden
  • Check the condition of the bulbous flowers
  • Sow seeds of cold-resistant flower crops into the ground
  • Fertilize the bulbous flowers, cut off the peduncles after flowering
  • Divide, transplant, and cut perennials
  • Take the shelter off the roses

  • Plant trees and shrubs
  • Free the lawn of moss
  • Cut tub plants
  • Time to plant strawberries and strawberries
  • Treat trees and shrubs against diseases and pests

  • Time to feast on the first vitamins - rhubarb stalks
  • Siderata, which were left for the winter in the beds, now embed in the soil
  • Prepare seedlings for planting (dive, harden)
  • Sow vegetable seeds in the ground
  • Plant potatoes

  • Continue to divide perennials such as chrysanthemums, astilbe, hosts, delphinium
  • In early May, start breeding lilies with scales
  • Prepare the soil for planting purchased herbaceous perennials and seedlings
  • Sow seeds of perennials and annuals
  • Time to plant cold-resistant annual flowers in your garden
  • Get started disembarking dahlias, cannes and gladioli
  • Continue to care for early flowering bulbs
  • Sow seeds of biennial crops
  • Prepare the soil for planting purchased herbaceous perennials and seedlings
  • In mid-May, start hardening the seedlings of thermophilic annuals
  • From the third decade, start planting annual seedlings
  • In dry weather, water all fresh plantings of perennials and annuals, bulbs and roses
  • In mid-May, start hardening the seedlings of thermophilic annuals
  • It's time to divide the dahlia tubers and tuberous begonias

  • Mulch the berry bushes
  • Water the berry bushes
  • Remove root suckers from raspberries
  • Protect your garden from diseases and pests

  • Harden and plant seedlings of vegetable crops in the ground
  • Kill weeds and loosen the soil in vegetable beds
  • Thin crops
  • Water your garden in drought
  • Provide shelter during return frosts

  • At the beginning of the month, complete the planting of annual seedlings in the ground
  • Cut perennials
  • Plant begonias, dahlias, gladioli, cannes in the garden
  • Tie tall perennials to decorative supports
  • Remove wild growth from roses, lilacs and other grafted bushes
  • Remove faded flowers from roses in time
  • Bring tub plants to the garden
  • As you grow, tie the clematis lashes to the support
  • As soon as the leaves of the early-flowering bulbous flowers turn yellow, dig them up
  • Water and feed crops and seedlings of annual flowers regularly

  • Mow, water and fertilize your lawn regularly
  • Regularly remove weeds from the berry fields and carry out loosening.
  • Mulch root zones of trees and shrubs
  • Feed fruit trees
  • Tackle green cuttings of berry bushes - honeysuckle, gooseberry, currant
  • During the formation of ovaries and the formation of fruits, regularly water the raspberries, currants, gooseberries, irga and sea buckthorn.
  • Inspect currant and gooseberry bushes regularly. If the leaves or branches show signs of a fungal disease, cut them off and burn them

  • Pick ripe greens, radishes, cucumbers, early cabbage, peas, green beans, zucchini in time
  • Water the cucumbers daily. Feed the mullein solution once a week
  • Remove weeds from the beds regularly
  • Stew tomatoes, especially late, indeterminate varieties

  • Cut off flower stalks from faded perennials - peonies, lilies, lupins
  • Dig up tulip, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs, irises
  • Tie dahlia and gladioli bushes to supports
  • Water your annuals and perennials regularly
  • Sow seeds of biennials and perennials
  • In drought, water the plants growing on the alpine slide.
  • It's time to start grafting roses, phlox, hydrangeas
  • Stepsons dahlias
  • Cut off faded rose flowers and wild growth in time

  • Perform a shaping hedge trimming
  • Mow your lawn in time
  • Examine garden plants carefully at all times. When diseases and pests appear, take the necessary measures
  • Remove stepchildren on grapes

  • Time to harvest and recycle the crop
  • Step sons and tie tomatoes
  • Time to lay the compost pit
  • As soon as the lower leaves of the garlic begin to turn yellow, then it's time to dig it up.
  • The main work in July is: loosening, watering, feeding and combating diseases and pests

  • Plant and replant herbaceous perennials and some bulbous plants
  • Engage in the reproduction of lilies (bulbs, scales, baby bulbs)
  • Thin the plants growing in the pond
  • Keep watering flowers, loosen and remove weeds
  • Feed dahlias, gladioli, roses, rudbeckia, perennial asters
  • Remove wilted flowers and peduncles from annuals, perennials
  • Plant biennial flowers permanently in your garden
  • In large-flowered chrysanthemums, remove axillary shoots (pinned)
  • At the end of the month, start planting bulbous plants

  • Continue to take good care of your lawn: mow, water and feed
  • Clean out the garden pond

  • Feed your ornamental shrubs one last time
  • Continue forming shrub pruning. Cut out all wild growth from lilacs, roses and other ornamental shrubs and trees
  • Carry out measures to protect plants from diseases and pests
  • Time to plant strawberries
  • Tie up abundant fruit tree branches to the stakes

  • Remove all stepchildren and top inflorescences of tomatoes that will no longer have time to form fruits, and pinch the tops of the shoots to speed up their ripening
  • Pinch the tops of the pumpkins so that the plants form large fruits, and not waste energy on the formation of a vegetative mass
  • As soon as the feathers of the onion turn yellow and fall, immediately start harvesting it.
  • Sow radishes, dill, parsley, and lettuce for fresh herbs in the fall
  • At the end of the month, a week before the planned harvesting of potatoes, mow and remove the tops from the site
  • Remove cabbage, peppers, eggplants, carrots, beets and other vegetables as they ripen.
  • Dig up and fertilize the beds for future planting of garlic and winter crops

  • At the beginning of the month, you can still divide, transplant and propagate perennial plants
  • In the first decade, start breeding lilies with bulbs.
  • It's time to start planting bulbous flowers: hyacinths, daffodils, tulips, crocuses, muscari
  • Take care of the roses
  • Before the first frost, bury the dahlia bushes, after the frost, dig out the tubers
  • Now is the time to propagate heathers, lavenders and rosemary, layering
  • It's time to start planting coniferous seedlings.
  • Prune perennials
  • Dig up the corms of gladioli
  • Bring in all the indoor plants that were outside in the summer. Transplant indoor plants as needed

  • At the end of the month, do one last mowing of the lawn. Remove dry leaves, branches, moss, etc. from lawns. If voids form on the lawn, loosen the soil and add a layer of sand to the grass.
  • Time to plant saplings of chubushnik (garden jasmine)
  • Continue planting strawberries until mid-September
  • September is the ideal time for planting seedlings of currant, gooseberry, raspberry, honeysuckle
  • Be sure to mow the lawns and all the herbs in the garden.
  • Dig up tree trunks or mulch with fallen leaves

  • Time to harvest potatoes
  • Planting winter garlic
  • After the first frost, start harvesting root crops: beets, carrots, celery, parsley, parsnips
  • Remove weeds and all other debris from the beds
  • Bring spicy plants growing in tubs or on balconies indoors. They will give you delicious greens for a long time.

  • Organize your flower garden
  • Continue planting spring flowering bulbous plants
  • Mulch planting bulbous plants
  • Dig up tubers and bulbs of plants that do not winter outdoors
  • Sow annual flowers in the winter
  • Cut and cover the roses
  • Mulch new plantings of perennials
  • Time to start preparing bulbous plants for forcing
  • Cut off all coastal plants

  • Cover up ornamental shrubs and mulch tree trunks
  • Cut off fruit bushes (raspberries, currants, gooseberries) after they shed their leaves
  • Prepare planting holes for spring planting of seedlings of ornamental shrubs and trees
  • Prepare an artificial reservoir for winter. Remove all fallen leaves, twigs, and other debris from the water
  • Feed your old lawn
  • In early October, do the last mowing of the lawn.
  • Place rodent baits in the garden
  • Remove sculptures, pots and containers from the garden

  • Dig up the garden, apply organic fertilizers for digging: compost, humus. If the soil is acidic, add wood lime or ash
  • Harvest leftover crop and store
  • Prepare the soil for greenhouses and seedlings in spring

  • Remove all annual flowers from the flower garden. Place the plant mass in the compost heap.
  • Cover frost-resistant bulbous plants with spruce branches, dry leaves, peat or sawdust
  • Sow annuals and perennials in winter
  • Sprinkle roses 15-20 cm high with peat, compost or garden soil
  • Check the condition of tubers and bulbs that have been sent for storage
  • Remove clematis shoots from the supports and simply lay them on the ground, they will successfully overwinter under a layer of snow

  • Finish pruning ornamental shrubs early in the month.
  • Prepare planting pits with nutritious soil for planting ornamental trees and shrubs in spring
  • Cover up heat-loving shrubs such as roses, some varieties of hydrangeas, action, buddleia, double-flowered mock-orange varieties, rhododendrons
  • Collect fallen leaves from flower beds and lawns
  • Prepare a plot for a lawn (if you plan to sow it in the spring)
  • Tie the stems and skeletal branches of fruit trees, especially if they are young
  • Cover non-frost-resistant grape varieties
  • November is the ideal time to plant medicinal shrubs such as hawthorn, viburnum, mountain ash

  • Sow vegetables in the winter until the soil freezes
  • Cover the compost with plastic wrap to keep it from freezing
  • Strengthen and insulate cellars, storage
  • Lime soil if it is too acidic
  • Check out how vegetables and fruits are stored in the basement

  • Analyze the mistakes of the previous season
  • Inspect bulbs prepared for distillation
  • Light up indoor plants on cloudy days
  • Tamp the snow on the flower beds to destroy the mouse paths
  • Check if there is sufficient snow cover for flower gardens and alpine slides. If not, throw snow on them

  • It's time to hang bird feeders in the garden
  • Store your garden tools. Pre-clean it, wash it, dry it well
  • Shake the snow off the branches regularly
  • Trample the snow under the crowns

  • Cover the beds with snow
  • Grow onions on a feather on a windowsill
  • Check out seed growers for the best vegetable seeds


AGROTECHNICS OF DECORATIVE BOWS

Choosing a landing site... All decorative bows need constant sunlight. Low-growing varieties can withstand light partial shade, but no more than 4 hours a day.

Soils for ornamental onions need light, loose, well-permeable, fertile and strictly neutral soils! Even a slight acidification can cause the plants to be constantly sore.

Ornamental bows do not tolerate close occurrence of groundwater, therefore flower beds should be made higher (at least 40 cm from the soil surface).

Soil preparation... For digging, the flower beds are brought in (per 1 sq. M): 2 buckets of rotted manure, a bucket of leafy soil, 2 buckets of sand, half a bucket of wood ash, 3 tablespoons of superphosphate and 2.5 tablespoons of potassium sulfate (decorative onions need a high potassium content) ...

Landing... As with all bulbous crops, the diameter and depth of the hole should correspond to the triple height of the bulb itself, therefore, when digging holes, be guided by it.

The distance between the bulbs also depends on the height of the plant. Between tall varieties, 30 - 40 cm are left, between undersized varieties - 10 - 15 cm.

The best time to plant decorative bows is from September 20 to October 15. You can plant them in the spring, at the beginning of May. Decorative bows take root very quickly and well in a new place.

Fertilizer... Ornamental bows are fertilized three times per season. The first feeding - with a solution of urea (2 tablespoons per bucket of water per 1 square meter of flower beds) - is given to the plants immediately after the snow melts.

The second time, decorative bows are fertilized with slurry (at a concentration of 1:10) at the end of June.

For the third time, at the end of September, alliums are given some kind of ready-made mineral complex for the autumn feeding of bulbous crops in the dosages indicated on the package.

Watering. Decorative bows are watered according to the weather - once or twice a week. The main thing is that the ground in the root layer is always moist.

Division... When the mother bush grows strongly (5-6 years after planting), they dig it up and gently break off the baby bulbs (like tulips and daffodils) and plant them in a new place.

Read more about this in our article:

Preparing for winter... Decorative bows have increased frost resistance, so for the winter it is enough to mulch the flower bed with dry leaves with a layer of 40 cm in case of a snowless winter.


5 Raspberry Sunday

Unique color
Average price: 280 rubles.
Rating (2019): 4.5

Raspberry Sunday makes you fall in love at first sight. The multifaceted shade of pink in the middle gradually turns into cream with yellowish accents at the edges of the bud. It blooms early for several weeks. An equally important distinctive feature of the variety is its aroma reminiscent of the smell of roses. Peony flowers are larger than average in size (18 cm). Raspberry Sunday is a real decoration for any garden. It is also often used in bouquet arrangements.

The peony bush is compact with bright, beautifully shaped leaves and strong stems. Its maximum height is 1 meter. It grows in one place for many years, not whimsical to care for. For landing, you should choose a well-lit place, because the variety loves the sun's rays. The buds should not be higher than 3 cm above the surface. The main advantages: an unusual color combination, attractive appearance, not capricious in care, tolerates subzero temperatures well, good reviews from gardeners.


Conditions necessary for tulips

Bulbous favorites can be called undemanding plants only conditionally: tulips bloom and grow only in favorable conditions, both lighting and soil characteristics are important for them.

Tulips are light-loving crops that are planted in sunny places or in diffused bright lighting. The later the tulip variety blooms, the better it tolerates light shading, but for varietal tulips, a sunny location is still more preferable. Tulips are not afraid of the neighborhood of large shrubs or trees, if the leaves of the latter bloom late and bulbs do not suffer from strong shading during flowering.

For tulips, only high-quality, deeply worked garden soils are suitable. This bulbous plant is grown in sandy loam and loam, loose, drained, light and nutritious soils. The reaction of the soil for tulips is very important: this bulbous does not tolerate an acidic environment, it is planted only in neutral or slightly alkaline soils. Before planting, the soil is adjusted to optimal texture and composition. Tulips cannot stand fresh organic matter.

Areas for growing tulips should be flat or slightly sloped, warm, well heated. Plants are better protected not only from the risk of stagnant water, but also from drafts or winds.

When choosing a place for growing tulips, it should be borne in mind that when grown for five years in a row in the same place, the risks of plant infection with pests and diseases increase. Tulips are not planted after daffodils, lilies and other bulbs, often affected by the same viruses and diseases.

Late tulip (Tulipa tarda)


New varieties of tulips, peonies, daffodils and amaryllis - garden and vegetable garden

At first I did not like this lily and did not order it

Lily Parrot Pink Cariba (The Parrot Lilium, Lily Parrot Pink Cariba, Oriental hybrids). New! Words freeze on the lips at the sight of this plant! Parrot lily Parrot Pink Cariba from breeder M.M. Duin (HEEMSKERK, Netherlands) will not leave you indifferent! She was bred as recently as 2013. Registration year - 2014. Revolution in the world of lilies! We are proud to present this "beauty" to you!

Exotic, exclusive, extraordinary flowers and strong stems are some suitable keywords to describe this lily. The buds look almost like a special piece of art, and each flower is like hand-painted. The whimsical and quirky "pink cariba" has the fragrant, ruffled petals of a classic lily with white edges. You have never seen anything like it! And, of course, the flower will stand in the vase for a long time. Mid-early tall lily. The shape of the flower is cupped. Flowering time: mid to late summer. Plant height is 90-120 cm.

You must remember that this lily exudes an intense scent. So while it is perfect for cutting and sits in a vase for a long time, its scent may not appeal to everyone in your family.

Oriental and Asiatic lilies are not the same thing. However, both the first and the second are very popular, strikingly beautiful and can be grown right in your garden. Oriental lilies are native to Japan. The plants gain height every year and are more than 60 cm taller than Asiatic lilies. Many are even known as lily trees. The deep green leaves are wider and farther apart than the leaves of Asiatic lilies, and are heart-shaped. Oriental lilies bloom at a time when Asiatic lilies disappear. Huge flowers stand on strong stems. Bulbs reproduce much more slowly than Asian bulbs.


Peonies: choose a suitable variety, plant in the ground

Suitable conditions for peonies are good lighting, loamy soil and moderate humidity. If you can arrange these in your garden, plant peonies more boldly. This can be done either in the spring (April-May) or in the fall (August-September), when the suction parts of the roots grow in the peonies. It is at this time that it is recommended to plant the plants in the ground.

IN YOUR CITY…
Request a Consultation on Plant Selection and Garden Design - Contact Landscaping Studios on Houzz

Different and lovely
The two most spectacular groups of peonies common in our gardens are herbaceous peonies and tree peonies. Popularity leader -herbaceous peony - appeared in Europe in the XII century.

The herbaceous peony perfectly tolerates the Central Russian winter with its unpredictable thaws and frosts. The secret of stability is very simple: the entire aerial part of the herbaceous peony dies off for the winter, and the root remains to winter in the ground. It requires almost no shelter - only in the first year after planting. In the spring, red shoots appear again, growing from renewal buds in the ground. And over the summer, the peony turns into a lush bush about a meter high (from 50 to 120 cm), decorated with huge flowers with a fragrant aroma.

The progenitor of many varieties of herbaceous peonies was the milky-flowered peony (Paeonia lactiflora) - with large flowers, very resistant to drought, frost, disease (gray mold). It was he who gave Europe the first white peonies, so he has a direct descendant - white-flowered peony (Paeonia albiflora). But before him, the red peony was known - medicinal peony (Paeonia officinalis).

Early flowering varieties with large bright red double flowers most likely originated from him. True, they often suffer from gray rot, so less than 1% of varieties come from the medicinal peony. In total, there are more than four and a half thousand varieties of herbaceous peony in the world! In the Main Botanical Garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences in Moscow, about 450 varieties are successfully blooming.

From the core of a peony
A bee crawls out slowly.
Oh, how reluctant.
Matsuo Basho (1644-1694)

Tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) is also popular in landscaping. There are about 500 varieties of it. The poems of the Far Eastern poets are dedicated to him - in China he decorated gardens at the beginning of the first millennium of our era. But the shoots of such a peony, as you might guess from the name of the species, lignify over the summer and do not die off for the winter. Therefore, in winter in the Moscow region, they can suffer: in the cold season they must be covered with spruce branches, building a small "tent" over the bush.The tree-like peony bush can reach one and a half to two meters in height, although in our strip it usually grows not so high.

Recently, wild-growing peonies have become popular. This is a narrow-leaved peony (Paeonia tenuifolia) with small bright flowers framed by a lush bush of leaves, often decorating alpine slides. Peony evading, or Maryin root (Paeonia anomala) the most resistant to frost - in nature it grows in Siberia. Daurian peony (or Crimean, Paeonia aurica) - shade-tolerant. In total, the number of species of wild peonies today is 32.

"Out of this!"
Shrugs the child up with his hands
Featuring a peony.
Kobayashi
Issa (1763-1828)

Varieties of herbaceous peonies are usually divided into park, cut-off and universal varieties. They differ in the height of the bush. Parks look good in landscape design, but they often look untidy in vases - they have strongly curved stems. And the flowers of cut peonies, when opening lush buds in the garden on a bush, require support and special care (they crumble heavily, after the rain the flowers fall on the ground from the weight).

Peonies look best in the garden against the background of a well-groomed lawn. In spring, small-bulbous flowers are successful companions to awakening peony bushes. Small groups of tulips or daffodils between peony bushes are also a good solution. Places with faded bulbs will be covered with overgrown peonies, and with the withering away of tulip and daffodil leaves, they will go under a lawn mow.

Advice: When placing tulips near peonies, do not forget that they must be dug up and planted again annually - it is important not to damage the roots and buds of the peony in the ground.

Where and how to plant
Choose the correct planting site: the groundwater level should not be high, no closer than 1 m. The peony needs a sunny place, loamy soil and good drainage. Shading from trees without prejudice to flowering is possible only in the second half of the day - in the shade, peonies will develop poorly and bloom poorly. They must be planted at some distance from the house (at least 2 meters) and large trees and shrubs (at least 1.5 meters). Choose a place that is not exposed to winds - this is primarily important to prolong the flowering of each flower. Otherwise, the petals will simply crumble in a strong wind.

It is rare for peonies to bloom the next year after planting. And experienced gardeners require the removal of flowers of the first year (or even the first two years), so as not to weaken the young bush with flowering. Otherwise, next year he may not give buds at all. But on the other hand, with proper care in the first year, the peony bush will gradually grow more and more, and every next year it will bloom more and more magnificently. If this does not happen, then a mistake was made during planting: poor flowering or its complete absence indicates a ruined planting.

Although the standard peony cut is quite small, the hole for it should be at least 70 cm deep and in diameter! The bottom is filled with drainage, then a mixture of soil, compost, peat and fertilizers is poured: 150-200 g of superphosphoric acid. Instead of superphosphate, you can use 300-400 g of bone meal or ash. A good cut should have 4-5 buds and the same number of roots. It is important that the topmost one is no deeper (and no higher) 3-5 cm from the soil surface.

In the photo: Coral Charm peony. The flower is semi-double, very large, coral-peach. Bush up to 90 cm tall. Early, versatile

Which variety of peonies to choose
Pay attention to the flowering time of the varieties. Herbaceous peonies bloom from the beginning of June - as a very early variety of the yellow-white "Ballerina" (Ballerina). You can stretch the pleasure by planting varieties with a consistent flowering period (at the same time, this will facilitate their care - the necessary pruning of faded buds). In the first half of June, the early Coral Fay cultivar blooms in central Russia, the mid-early coral Pink Hawaiian Coral blooms in the middle, and the mid-late Sarah Bernhardt at the end of June. In early July - a late light pink-coral "Coral Pink" (Coral Pink) with light green leaves and a pink "Mercedes" (Mercedes).

In the photo: Peony "Yellow King" (Yellow King). Japanese flower. Bush 80 cm, medium, versatile.

Terry peonies are divided according to the shape of the flower into pink, crown, hemispherical, as well as spherical, bomb-shaped and semi-pink.

The novelty of the variety does not mean the best quality - the battle is mainly for the unusual color. That is why the newest varieties are expensive - up to several thousand rubles for a cut with 4-5 buds, bought at retail in a garden center.

On the picture: « Angelo Cobb Freeborn » (Angelo Cobb Freeborn). The flower is terry, spherical, 12-18 cm, bright pink-red. Bush up to 90 cm tall, requires support. Medium early, versatile.

The old varieties, which appeared even before the abolition of serfdom, are no less good than the newest ones. Among them we can recommend the peony "Festiva Maxima", bred in 1851 by P. Miellez - double white with red strokes and a delicious aroma. Sarah Bernhardt, bred by the famous French breeder V. Lemoine in 1906, is lilac-pink with a slightly bitter smell. During flowering, its petals fade at the edges, which makes the flower even more beautiful and voluminous.

In the photo: Variety « Black jade »

Soviet-era varieties are also great for the garden - they are stable and beautiful. The terry pink-shaped pale pink "Solveig" (the same age as Gagarin's flight into space, a variety of selection in 1961), the terry rose-shaped variety "In Memory of Gagarin" with blood-red edging of large (18 cm) creamy-white flowers and carmine strokes - "blush" are magnificent on the petals. But the variety "In Memory of Academician Tsitsin", which is especially attractive for its giant creamy flowers, suffers in the garden because of their size - the heavy heads of peonies almost never stay open on their own, lie down, require support.

In the photo: Variety « Kurile Islands »

What to read
The books of the candidate of biological sciences Mariana Sergeevna Uspenskaya, a breeder of tree peonies, will help in choosing varieties and will tell you in detail about the rules of planting and care. Among the latest editions is the joint work of Marianna Uspenskaya and Nina Ippolitova "Peonies: Herbaceous and Tree-like" by the "Fiton +" publishing house.

Sniff and buy
In Moscow, you can see blooming peonies in the Botanical Garden of Moscow State University. M.V. Lomonosov by appointment by phone. Excursions are held during the flowering of bushes, that is, at the end of May to study tree-like peonies and in two decades from the beginning of June, when herbaceous peonies bloom profusely.

Although planting peonies is best at the end of August, the choice is usually made in early summer. The registration (purchase) for certain varieties is usually timed to coincide with the exhibition of peonies - many varieties are presented in cut to make it easier to make a choice. Peony varieties are found both domestic and French, English, American selection.

Exhibitions and sales, organized in conjunction with the section "Peonies" of the club "Flower growers of Moscow", are also held in the Biological Museum. K. A. Timiryazeva, entrance by tickets.

In the photo: Paul M. Wild, rose-shaped double flower, up to 20 cm, fragrant. Bush up to 60 cm, medium, versatile.


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Comments:

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