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Plants of the carnivorous genus number almost two hundred different species all over the world, among which is the carnivorous plant sundew (drosera). She, thanks to her special structure and ability to survive, is able to grow in almost any conditions and on any continent. The only exception is Antarctica. The sundew can even grow on swampy soils, which are almost completely devoid of nutrients, since it gets them from insects. Dewdrop because of this is called a trap plant.

Description of the plant

The appearance of the sundew does not at all resemble an insect trap. Plants of different species differ only in the shape and size of the leaves, but they have in common - thin soft villi with droplets of sticky liquid, very similar to ordinary dew. When an insect sits on a leaf to quench its thirst with "dew", it immediately sticks and becomes as if paralyzed. With weak attempts to get out of the sticky captivity, the insect creates vibrations that give a kind of signal to the plant and the leaf curls up along with the prey.

Having received the necessary nutrition, the sundew in a few days again unfolds its leaves in anticipation of a new victim. True, if small debris or a raindrop gets on the sticky leaf, then the plants will not react. This natural specimen can grow not only in the wild, but also feels great at home.

Dewdrop is a flowering plant that blooms in the spring months with pink or white flowers that later turn into seed pods. Some varieties are capable of self-pollination.

Sundew care at home

Location and lighting

Rosyanka needs long-term lighting for many hours - about 14 hours in summer and about 8 hours in winter. Direct sunlight is not recommended for the sundew, so it is advisable to grow the plant on a windowsill on the east or west side of the house. In the cold season with short daylight hours, plants can be supplemented with a fluorescent lamp.


The sundew is excellent and can easily endure a cold snap and even small frosts. In winter, the sundew can be at a temperature of 5 to 12 degrees Celsius, but in the summer, the temperature regime depends on its type. For example, 18 degrees are enough for European varieties, but for African varieties it is about 30 degrees Celsius to create complete comfort.

Air humidity

In the room where the sundew is kept, it is necessary to maintain a high level of humidity (about 70%). This can also be done using a terrarium in which a potted plant is placed. The plant will receive the necessary moisture if the terrarium is covered with a lid or by regularly spraying the sundew, but with the lid open. To keep the moisture in the container for a long time, its bottom is covered with moistened moss.


The soil in the flower pot must be moistened daily with a sprinkler, and the sundew should be watered once a week. A lack or excess of moisture in the soil should not be allowed. When dry, the plant will begin to wither, and with excessive moisture, the roots will rot.

As irrigation water, you need to use rain, thawed, purified or distilled water, but in no case tap water.

The soil

Since the sundew in the wild grows on poor soils, in which there are practically no nutrients, its root part is very poorly developed. For home cultivation, you will need a low flower capacity (about 10 centimeters) and a sand-peat soil mixture with a small amount of moss, which will help to retain moisture.

Top dressing and fertilizers

The sundew does not require additional feeding, since it receives its main food from insects. The main thing is that insects in the form of flies or mosquitoes sometimes sit on the leaves of the sundew.

Sundew maintenance in winter

From November to February, the plant is dormant. During this time, the sundew sheds its foliage and becomes inactive towards insects. It is recommended to keep the flower in a cool place with high levels of humidity and away from heating appliances.

Before the start of the active phase of plant development (approximately in the last week of February), you can transplant and update the soil.

Sundew propagation

Seed propagation

The seeds are planted in a well-moistened sphagnum moss and kept in a well-lit place covered with a film at a temperature of more than 25 degrees Celsius. Seedlings will appear in about 25-30 days. Plants with 3-4 full leaves are suitable for transplanting into soil. The sundew will reach maturity after 3-4 months.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The bush of the plant can be divided into several parts along with the root and transplanted into separate containers. Daughter rosettes are also planted in individual flower pots. In the new place, young shoots and separated parts quickly take root.

Propagation by cuttings

The cuttings can be placed in water for root formation, or they can be immediately planted in moist soil, which will be sphagnum moss. For good rooting in the soil, the plant needs a lot of moisture and the creation of greenhouse conditions.

Diseases and pests

Since the sundew feeds on insects, it is almost never disturbed by pests. The only harmful insect for this plant is aphids. You can get rid of it by spraying with special parasite agents for flowering indoor plants.

The flower is sick in most cases due to improper care of it. Basically, this is a lack or excess of moisture in the soil and indoors. With insufficient watering and dry air, sticky drops on the leaves of the sundew may dry out. It is urgent to spray and raise the moisture level by keeping the plant in the terrarium.

With an excess of moisture, the process of decay begins in the root part. This comes from the stagnation of excess water in the plant pot. In this case, it is better to transplant the sundew into a new soil and, having examined the roots, remove their damaged and rotten parts. In the future, it is recommended to use only soft water in moderate volumes for irrigation.

If the disease has caught the plant during the period of active flowering, then removing the peduncles will help to save its strength and redirect them to the fight against the disease.

The healing properties and use of sundew

Dewdrop belongs to poisonous plants, and you need to handle it extremely carefully, but at the same time it has a lot of healing qualities. It is used in folk and official medicine. At home, sundew can be treated, but after consultation with a specialist and at a strictly indicated dosage. Choosing a treatment yourself is dangerous to health.

The plant contains a large amount of useful substances that help in the treatment of many diseases and their consequences. Both fresh plants and dry raw materials are used. On the basis of sundew, tinctures and ointments, decoctions and solutions for compresses are made. The list of diseases that sundew can cure include diarrhea, asthma, dysentery, tuberculosis, bronchitis, dropsy, whooping cough, fever and many skin diseases.

In folk medicine, all parts of the plant are used, as well as its juice.

Dewdrop is used:

  • To relieve spasms and inflammation.
  • For the treatment of the nervous system.
  • As a diaphoretic and diuretic.
  • To normalize body temperature.
  • In the treatment of atherosclerosis.
  • For the treatment of the gastrointestinal tract.
  • In complex therapy in the treatment of colds, including cough and ENT organs.
  • For the destruction of calluses and warts.

Despite the fact that the sundew is a very exotic plant, caring for it is quite simple and even a beginner grower can do it.

Sundew is a carnivorous plant predator for insects

If there is no time for sowing green manure, use compost or humus. Grind the organic matter and sprinkle it on the dug soil, then form the beds. Do not use fresh manure or chicken droppings! And because of an excess of nitrogen, plants may refuse to bear fruit, begin to hurt and may die.



  1. If last season nettle, yaskirka, shiritsa, hop, white dove, quinoa, motherwort, burdock grew well on the site - the earth was oversaturated with nitrogen.
  2. Clover, sundew, sedum, pupavka and all legumes "settle" on the soil poor in nitrogen.
  3. Ferns grow on the calcium-rich soil, but heather and violet do not grow.
  4. An excess of phosphorus is liked by lungwort and nightshade, and its lack - by sorrel, blueberries, lingonberries and cranberries.
  5. An indicator of a large amount of potassium in the soil is plantain thickets.


The plant starts growing early, blooms, like any blackberry, with large white flowers, very beautiful! The flowers are self-pollinating, but the bees also sit down. The berries ripen in July gradually, and become smaller in extreme heat. If earlier my granddaughter Rosalina, waking up, ran to the blueberry bushes, then with the appearance of kumanika, she, like a fox in grapes in Krylov's fable, began to twirl around kumanika bushes in search of ripe berries.

By the way, the kumanik is quite thorny, the thorns are rare, but large.

Although the stems are erect, they still require a garter so that the berries do not sink to the ground. The roots are fibrous, powerful, require a lot of nutrition and moisture. Therefore, I must always remember about watering and feeding, as the plant loves nutrient-rich soil.

In the spring I water the bushes with urea and a complex of trace elements diluted in water, then every two weeks with chicken droppings and ash, also diluted in water.

I do all this before and during flowering.

When ripe berries - only water. I dig in weeds under the bushes. After picking the berries, I immediately cut out the sprouted shoots so that all the food goes to the rising replacement shoots, like in raspberries, I feed it in the fall, add ash around the bushes. I did not see any pests, except for the larvae of the May beetle.

Yes, I forgot to write that in the spring I do the pinching of the tops, then the lateral shoots grow.

It was with these tops that I tried to propagate the kumanik, but, apparently, I did something wrong, they did not let the roots go. Now I will try to propagate with horizontal layers, dropping them in the ground, since I do not have kumanik shoots - apparently, I cannot provide it with optimal moisture, and I have not yet fully explored all its whims. I still have to work on this.

And now I am thinking how to create conditions for my wild girl in high humidity in my arid area, because there was no rain last season all summer, and the well can barely cope with watering all my plants. If my fellow summer residents have any ideas about a small "swamp" in the conditions of a summer residence, share your ideas. I think they are useful not only for me.

Finally, I would like to wish you farmers a rich harvest, pleasant impressions in communicating with your beloved "pets", and most importantly - health and inexhaustible energy! And to the editorial staff - positive energy from our letters (although it is so difficult to work with them!), Cheerful and cheerful mood and, of course, great health!

Herbs for the lungs and bronchi: herbal preparations for the treatment of the respiratory system

Herbal preparations for the treatment of colds and respiratory diseases: bronchi, lungs, throat, trachea are in demand among all inhabitants of a temperate climate. A prolonged cold period and the accompanying dampness undermine health even in people with strong immunity.

We bring to your attention four dozen herbal recipes that will help in the treatment of colds, flu and SARS, bronchitis, tonsillitis, cough and other diseases. The recipes are taken from popular science literature of the times of the Union and are collected in a single table.

Please note that positive results in the treatment of respiratory organs with herbs are observed only with the correct preparation of preparations from herbal preparations, observing the proportions and technology.

The simplest aqueous herbal extracts (decoctions and infusions) are the most popular in traditional medicine - they are easy to prepare at home. Decoctions are prepared from the bark and roots of plants, and infusions are made from flowers, leaves, stems, etc.

To prepare the herbal infusion, take the required amount of medicinal raw materials in specified proportions and drinking water, mix and incubate under a lid in a water bath, then cool at room temperature for at least 45 minutes, filter and squeeze the raw materials, and then bring the volume to the original value with boiled water.

The preparation of the herbal decoction differs from the preparation of the infusion by the holding time in a water bath - at least 30 minutes, as well as by reduced cooling for 10 minutes.

In the table, the proportions are given at the rate of 1 tbsp. a spoonful of medicinal raw materials in a glass of boiling water. When the amount of raw materials, water or preparation method changes, a note is made in the text

Respiratory organs, diagram. Illustration: Lipchenko V.Ya., Samusev R.P. - Atlas of Normal Human Anatomy, 1989

The proportions of herbs are indicated as a percentage, so it is easy to calculate the amount of raw materials in tablespoons or teaspoons. For example, a ratio of 20/40/40% can be represented as 0.5 / 1/1 tbsp. spoons for 2.5 cups of water. If electronic scales are available, it is best to use them for accurate proportioning. If there is nothing to weigh the grass, then know:

  • A full tablespoon ≈ 20 grams of dry herb, and 200 ml and this is a glass of boiling water
  • A tablespoon without a "top" ≈ 15 grams of dry medicinal raw materials
  • Two teaspoons ≈ 10 grams dry herb
  • One teaspoon ≈5 grams of raw material.

You can read more about the preparation of medicinal preparations in a special article.


  • B. M. Korshikov et al., Medicinal properties of agricultural plants, 1985
  • V. Petkov et al., Modern herbal medicine, 1988
  • D. Iordanov et al., Phytotherapy, 1976
  • E.V. Kucherov et al., Medicinal plants of Bashkiria: their use and protection, 1989
  • L. Ya. Sklyarevsky, I. A. Gubanov, Medicinal plants in everyday life, 1986
  • NG Kovaleva, Treatment with plants. Essays on Herbal Medicine, 1972
  • S. Ya.Sokolov, I.P. Zamotaev, Handbook of Medicinal Plants, 1989.


In the sundew, the most interesting thing is the leaves spread over the surface of the moss cover. About 25 cilia are located along their edges and on the upper side of the leaf blade. In this case, the longest cilia sit along the edges of the sheet, and the shortest ones are located in its center. The upper end of each cilium is thickened and looks like a head. In the thickening itself there is a special gland that secretes a shiny droplet of sticky mucus. This mucus gleams in the sun, resembling a drop of dew, hence the name of this plant - sundew.

A small insect, attracted by the glitter of the dew-drop, sits on the leaf and immediately sticks to the eyelash. Soon, the cilium will begin to bend towards the center of the plate, but will reach the plate along with the insect in 10-20 seconds. At the same time, first the neighboring cilia begin to bend down, and then the more distant ones, since the irritation is transmitted further and further. A little more time will pass, and a significant part of the cilia, and sometimes all of them, will bend over the caught victim.And the leaf blade itself usually starts to move: its edge is bent and hides the insect trapped in the trap.

The glands of the cilia secrete not only sticky mucus, but also enzymes that break down proteins. These enzymes in sundew are very similar in composition and action on pepsin, an enzyme in the gastric juice of animals. The sundew glands also secrete acid, which helps the plant to digest the proteins of the prey. After the completion of digestion and absorption of nutrients of the victim, the cilia straighten, droplets of sticky mucus soon appear on them, which means the plant is again ready to catch insects.


Nepentes is a terrestrial, epiphytic perennial plant endowed with trap urns located at the ends of the leaves. There are over 70 species of these insectivorous plants and many varieties and hybrids.

In nature, nepentes grow in various ecosystems: in forests and on rocks, on a sandy coast and on trees. Although most species are found in humid and warm climates, some species have adapted well to the alternation of wet and dry seasons.

Leaves of nepentes 20-60 cm long are oblong, green, yellow-green, reddish or with specks. At the end of the leaf, a kind of mustache is formed, on which is located an urn with a length of 5 to 35 cm in the form of a jug. Inside, the trap is covered with hard hairs directed downward, which dooms to failure any attempt of the victim to get out. The inside of the jug contains digestive juice. The flowers of the nepentes are small, collected in inflorescences with 4 sepals without petals.

Venus flytrap

The Venus flytrap is endemic to the state of North Carolina. It is confined to sandy soils and can tolerate both drought and temporary flooding. The leaves of this plant, slightly raised above the ground, are collected in a rosette around a long peduncle. The leaf blade has turned into two rounded valves, lying at an angle to each other, and along the edges they are equipped with long strong teeth. On the upper surface of each half of the leaf, three sensitive hairs stick up. As soon as the insect touches one of the hairs, the flaps of the flycatcher quickly slam shut, their teeth go behind each other, forming a kind of lattice, which an insect thicker than 3-4 mm cannot overcome. The more desperately the prey beats in the trap, the tighter the leaf leaves are compressed, tightly adhering to one another, strongly squeezing the prey. The surface of the leaf is dotted with small red glands that secrete a liquid with formic acid and digestive enzymes.

Closely slammed traps of the plant are kept in this state for up to 40 hours. In this case, ants, which in nature make up about one third of all prey, remain alive for 8 hours and only after the release of acidic liquid by the glands die. Upon completion of the digestion of prey, the leaf of the Venus flytrap opens again, and the glands on its surface are restored and become ready for re-functioning.

Watch the video: life - Sundew: living flypaper - BBC one


  1. Kanaan

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  5. Nevyn

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