What a gardener needs to do in spring to enjoy blooming roses in summer
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Growing roses is troublesome but very enjoyable. Proper care in spring is a guarantee that the bushes will thrive and delight with the charm of lush flowers and exquisite aroma.
For the winter, roses are covered with foil or burlap in 2-3 layers. The task in the spring is to correctly determine the moment when the shelter can be removed. There is no exact time, since at this time the weather is unstable and different regions have their own climate. The main requirement is that the air temperature must be stable and take positive values. The film does not transmit light and air well, so if the sun is already warming up, bacteria and fungi will begin to multiply under it, which will lead to damage to the flower. You need to open the plant gradually. During the day for 2-3 days, closing at the same time at night. Then remove completely.
Remember about frost
Frost damage can damage the branches, leaves and buds of roses. This case is fixable, but undesirable. Damage to the buds will delay flowering a little, as the plant will have to grow them back. Damaged branches should be cut off. If the soil is well huddled and loosened at the roots, then cold snaps are not terrible. The air will keep warm and the roots will tolerate the drop in temperature. If the forecast promises long night frosts or snow, then it is worth covering with lutrasil for the night.
When stable spring weather is established, all the shelters from the roses must be removed. This should be done gradually, gradually giving the roots a dose of fresh air. It is necessary to leave to ventilate for 2-3 hours in the afternoon, and close the roots by night. Then remove completely.
In the spring, the sun already warms up the earth well and bright rays can damage exposed roots. In the first weeks after the complete removal of the shelter, it is necessary to cover the rose from the direct sun with a garden shade, setting it on the sunny side.
In the spring, you need to carefully inspect the bush and remove all damaged shoots, cutting off below the site of damage. It is also worth removing the weak growth so that it does not take away the strength of the plant during the period of rapid growth. Pruning of early varieties of roses is necessary in April, before the budding stage. Tea and ground cover in May, after blooming.
After pruning, fertilizers are applied under the bushes. This can be bird droppings or manure with the addition of wood ash. Supplement the edging with compounds with a high nitrogen content. Better assimilated liquid forms "Aquarin" and "Kemira-Universal." retains moisture in the soil and prevents weeds from growing.
Water the roses with warm water, directing the stream under the root. The flow of water should not erode the soil at the roots and fall on the stem. If the seedling is young, then water it daily until it fully roots, and then as the soil dries out, once a week. Do not water the plants at noon in bright sun, as the rose can get burned.
- Taking shelter
- Formative pruning
- Treatment against diseases and pests
- Fastening of supports and a garter to them
Focus on the end of March-beginning of April, when the danger of frosts below -5 degrees passes, as well as as the soil thaws.
I open my roses gradually, preferably in cloudy weather or in the evening, so that they are not immediately under bright sunlight.
The scheme is approximately the following: as soon as the temperature stops dropping below -5 degrees, I remove the first layer - non-woven material. After 2-3 days, when the temperature rises to 0 degrees, I remove spruce branches or the rest of the covering material, and after a few days - dry foliage.
I let the bushes adapt, and only then do I get bored. I remove the protection from the root collar (vaccination site) last. To other procedures
I start about 4-7 days after removing the shelter (but here you need to monitor the kidneys: if they are swollen, it is better to speed up this work). Pruning
Stamp and climbing roses do not need a large-scale haircut in the spring. In all types of roses, I completely remove dry, diseased and frost-damaged stems, as well as thin and weak growths. I completely cut out the wild growth that appears below the place of budding (grafting). I also remove branches older than 4-5 years.
With the onset of swelling of the buds, I shorten the healthy branches. When pruning, on hybrid tea roses, I leave 5-6 buds from the base of the shoot, on floribunda roses - 4-5.
SPRING ROSE PRUNING IS CONSIDERED MORE IMPORTANT than AUTUMN. THE FLOWER OF ITS BLOSSOMING DEPENDS ON THE FIRST CUT OF THE BRUSH.
I work only clean (disinfected) and well sharpened
All fertilizers must be applied to wet soil. Therefore, before feeding the rose, water it well with a tool. At the end of the work, I burn all the scraps (I do the same with the leaves from under the bushes - spores of pathogenic fungi and larvae of pests winter on them).
Roses have been growing for ten years. I envy rose growers who open roses in May when the chance of frost is low. I open mine when the buds have just swollen in a rose bound in a bunch, I cut the harness and the branches straighten sharply. I experimented once, held some of the roses until May - so while I was opening them, I took down half of the already opened leaves.
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In the spring it happens during the day up to + 15 ° С and more, and at night up to -10 ° С - these races are just the most dangerous for rose bushes. If the roses are covered for the winter with spruce branches, fallen leaves, and on top with thick lutrasil, then the shelter must be removed gradually. It is good when the roses are open during the day, and at night they are covered with lutrasil, but this is not always possible, so you just need to change the thick lutrasil to a thinner one.
Last year, in the spring, I sprayed Oxyhom 2 times, since there was a lot of infectious burns, only after the second pruning and processing was it possible to stop this attack.
The splendor of their upcoming summer flowering and the overall durability of these wonderful garden shrubs depend on the correctness and timeliness of spring care for roses.
How to care for peonies in spring and summer
Caring for peonies in the summer is largely a continuation of the activities started in the spring. It also aims to maintain the health of the bush and achieve its abundant flowering.
When caring for peonies in spring and summer, one should not forget about disease prevention.
So, the first treatment against fungi is carried out immediately after the snow melts, watering the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate (1-2 g per 5 l of water).
At the stage of leaf unfolding in mid-May, the prevention of damage to peonies by borotrix, or gray rot, is performed by spraying the plant and the soil around the bush with solutions of copper preparations (HOM, copper sulfate, Borodos mixture 0.5%).
The second treatment with the same preparations against gray rot and rust is carried out in 10-15 days.
Caring for peonies involves another spraying with fungicides - after the end of flowering.
Loosening and mulching of the soil
A set of measures for caring for peonies in the spring in the country or in an open garden plot also includes systematic loosening of the soil. Usually it is performed using a flat cutter or cultivator, stepping back about 3-5 cm from the shoots of the bush. It is necessary to loosen the soil to a depth of 5 cm, carefully so as not to damage the shoots.
The rules for caring for peonies in spring and summer involve loosening the soil after each watering or heavy rain, in parallel with the removal of weeds (if necessary). It is also recommended to make sure to perform this action:
- in mid-April, after the mass emergence of seedlings
- in mid or late May, when budding begins
- at the beginning of August.
Every time after watering or rain, you should carefully loosen the soil under the peony bushes.
Mulching the soil in spring is advised to better retain moisture and heat, as well as prevent weeds. For these purposes, it is best to use a small layer of rotted manure. Straw or rotted leaves are also often used, but they can cause an outbreak of fungal diseases.
Caring for old bushes
Adult plants after winter should be carefully examined. All old plants should be thoroughly cleaned of dry branches that have been affected by pests and diseases. Shoots can often be weakened and frostbitten, so all branches should be cut below the affected part.
After the winter period, the shoots should be green. The most common hazards at the base of a plant are:
- Frostbions - longitudinal ruptures of the bark
- Infectious burns.
In spring, roses can have frozen, diseased, and broken branches. All frozen shoots should be cut off until the middle of the stem turns white. All moldy areas are removed.
After all the affected branches have been eliminated, the bush must be sprinkled with ash.
Important! The main thing is not to rush to prune the shoots with a white bloom, which are located at the base of the bush. Such spraying under the influence of sunlight will disappear in the sun on its own within two weeks.
It is imperative to remove all growth that grows below the vaccination level. This prevents the gradual wildness of ornamental crops.
Mulching of the soil is especially effective after the root system of the bushes has been fertilized. The event allows you to maintain soil moisture, improve air exchange and slow down the growth of weeds.
Mulching allows for less loosening, which is very important in the autumn. Mulching is carried out using bark and compost.
Caring for roses in spring: what to feed, when to open, fertilizers
The most popular flowers, the name of which even small children know, are roses. They amaze with their beauty and diversity. Each owner of a suburban area tries to plant at least a few rose bushes. A very attractive factor in the cultivation of these wonderful plants is their ability to grow in one place for many years. In order for them to bloom well and not get sick, it is very important to care for roses in the spring, when they are just beginning to wake up after "hibernation".
The content of the article:
What are the main activities for caring for roses in spring
It is necessary to start caring for roses in early spring, preferably before bud break. The first step is to remove the winter shelter. No less than frost, rose bushes suffer from damping. As soon as warm sunny days come, the buds swell, and if the bush is still in hiding, they can be damaged.
It is very important to choose the right time when to open roses in spring. If done too early, spring frosts can damage the buds. It is also impossible to delay this work in order to prevent them from damping out and the appearance of bacterial diseases. If warm sunny days alternate with night frosts, the shelter is removed gradually. The full opening of roses in spring is best done after the onset of a stable above-zero temperature in cloudy, calm weather, so that the delicate buds do not burn in the sun.
After 5-7 days, you can start pruning the roses in spring. In spring care for roses, pruning is very important, because this procedure gives the plant the opportunity to accumulate strength and prepare well for the next winter. There are different pruning rules for different varieties of roses. But the general principle is to remove dry, frost-damaged stems, excess thickening shoots, small shoots. In order for the plants to grow and develop well, you need to feed the roses in the spring. It is also of great importance to protect young buds from pests. So that the soil under the bushes does not dry out, it must be mulched.
So, spring rose care implies:
- • removal of shelter
- • sanitary pruning
- • fertilization
- • treatment against diseases and pests
- • mulching.
The better to feed roses in spring
After pruning at the onset of warm weather, when the shoots have started to grow, fertilizers are applied under each rose bush. A prerequisite is soil moisture, so if the ground is dry, it should be moistened before spring feeding the roses. For the best development of shoots, roots and leaves, nitrogen must be contained in the fertilizer for roses in the spring. It can be ammonium nitrate or NPK - a complete complex fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Top dressing is best done often, but in small quantities. The first time you can feed the roses in mid-April, repeat the feeding after two weeks.
What else can you fertilize roses in spring? Plants respond very well to the introduction of organic fertilizers - solutions of mullein, chicken droppings. With a small number of bushes on the site, you can use special liquid fertilizers for roses. After fertilization, it is advisable to mulch the soil under the bushes to prevent moisture evaporation.
More than other varieties, climbing roses need regular feeding, because they bloom very profusely. In the spring, they must carry out a liquid top dressing using full mineral fertilizer. If you feed the plant with organic fertilizer after 2-3 weeks, it will thank you with abundant and long flowering. Caring for climbing roses in spring also includes proper pruning.
How to process roses in spring
When growing conditions worsen, roses weaken. Their resistance to resistance to many diseases and pests decreases. After winter, dangerous pests can safely overwinter in the ground under the bushes, and last year's leaves and stems become a source of infection with fungal diseases. If plant residues affected by the disease were not destroyed in the fall, they must be collected and burned in early spring.
Treatment of roses in spring includes spraying the bushes with drugs for pests and diseases. Roses suffer most from diseases such as rust, gray rot, leaf spot, powdery mildew. The very first disease control measures are carried out in early spring, before bud break. How can you treat roses in early spring? Fungicides for processing - 3% copper sulfate, 4% iron sulfate, 3% Bordeaux mixture. Preparations in this concentration can only be applied along the bare trunk. After budding, the solution should be prepared in 1%, at the rate of 100 g of the chemical per 10 liters of water. For better adhesion of the fungicide, liquid green soap or laundry soap dissolved in water is added to it. Spraying is carried out in the morning or in the evening, and on cloudy days throughout the day. Timely feeding of roses in spring is an additional protection for the plant from diseases.
Spring processing of roses is also carried out against pests such as rose sawfly, rose aphid, spider mite, leafworm. Pests are especially dangerous for plants during the growing season, when buds are just beginning to develop, leaves and shoots appear, therefore it is so important to care for roses in spring. For larvae and adult insects, young sprouts are delicious food. Of the gnawing pests, the greatest danger is represented by larvae, beetles and caterpillars of sawflies, which cause significant damage to plants, slowing down their growth, and reducing flowering. They damage buds and flowers, eat leaves from the edges, gnaw through the passages in the stems.
Pests such as aphids and spider mites can be fought by biological methods using soapy water and decoctions of herbs - horsetail, nettle, wormwood. With a large number of pests, they are sprayed with insecticides, such as Fufanon, Fitoverm, Iskra, Inta-vir, Aktellik, Aktara, Karate, etc. One should not waste time and not wait until dangerous insects cause significant harm to young shoots and buds.
Thinking about what else you can do with roses in the spring, it is worth remembering about vaccinations. If the roses were grafted in the spring, then this year the buds will start to grow. This operation is best done during bud opening. Roses are grafted using various methods: a stock from a cultivated rose is implanted into the root collar of a rose hip bush, budding is used in the butt. Budding is carried out when the buds on the selected shoots are well formed and the air has warmed up to 10 °.
If the gardener knows how to care for roses in spring, and follows the recommendations, the rose garden will delight him from the beginning of summer until autumn with bright, beautiful flowers in the garden.
Step 5. Pest control
Insect pests do not bypass the rose either, so the fight against them is also one of the main procedures in caring for roses.
Examine roses regularly for pests. Holes, cobwebs, foam or sticky plaque that appear on the leaves should alert you, because most often they indicate an attack of all kinds of insects: aphids, spider mites, penny slobber, sawfly, etc. In this case, you need to immediately start processing. If you can't pinpoint exactly who attacked your roses, use a broad spectrum insecticide that will deal with most rose pests, such as Aktar or Iskra.
You can also use an insecticide of biological origin Fitoverm (its dosage depends on the type of pest, see the instructions), which not only fights insects, but is also a prophylactic agent and helps prevent their appearance.
Fitoverm should not be used simultaneously with chemical insecticides.
In order to prevent the appearance of pests on roses, you can also use folk remedies for prevention:
- After each rain (and in the dry period every 7-10 days) dust the rose bushes with a mixture of ash and tobacco dust.
- You can process roses on a leaf with an infusion of garlic, adding a little household or liquid soap to the solution as an adhesive.
Roses require increased attention to themselves - everyone who decided to have these beauties in their garden knows this. Only with proper care will they delight you with lush and long flowering.