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Tree cutting

Tree cutting


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Tree cutting

It is good to remember that the cutting operations in a plant are interventions carried out on a living element, to be carried out therefore in full respect of the tree on which it is acting. It is also advisable to deepen the knowledge of the characteristics of the plant in order to avoid causing damage: the purpose of the cut, on the contrary, is to favor its harmonious and aesthetically appreciable development. In fact, we must not forget that the cut that is made during pruning is in any case a wound made to the plant. A series of very useful precautions to be taken during these operations are listed below.

It is advisable, when the cut is made close to a gem, to make it at least seven centimeters above it, since cuts too close to the gem can damage it, while cuts made at a greater distance can leave behind stumps subject to drying and becoming gathering place for annoying parasites and infections.

In case you want to direct the vegetation on the right side, it is necessary to cut above the bud which is facing to the right. On the contrary, if you want to develop the vegetation in the left direction you will have to cut above the bud facing the left side. This cut must also be at a 45 degree angle, with a downward slope on the opposite side of the gem. By operating in this way, rain and humidity avoid draining onto it, avoiding problems related to stagnation of water or the formation of ice, or even the development of harmful fungi. The cuts made to the plant must then be clean, never imperfect or even greater than one centimeter in diameter.In this case it is necessary to refine the inaccuracies with a grafting knife, in order to keep the surface smooth. If large cuts are made, they must be carefully disinfected and also enriched with healing mastic, in order to avoid infections or other problems caused by frosts. A last, important, recommendation is that the equipment with which the cuts are made must always be clean in order not to cause a spread of infections.


Cutting tools

There are some essential tools for cutting operations which, as mentioned, must always be used clean and also stored after being well cleaned in places free of large quantities of dust or humidity to avoid harmful effects such as diseases and infections at the time of cutting. .

The basic tools are as follows.


Scissors

To favor those with straight cut for small cuts or with "hinged" blade, ideal for removing small-diameter twigs without causing fraying of the bark. For tall branches there are types of scissors mounted on a ladder, just as there are long-handled shears to be used with both hands for cutting hedges or large and more woody branches. During cutting, the branch must rest against the base of the scissors, never at their ends, to relieve the effort of the cut and preserve the edge of the tool.


Saw

To be used when cutting large branches, it is straight or curved and its wire can be simple or double. If the work does not lead to a smooth surface, as often happens with the saw, it will be remedied by refining with grafting knives.


Wires

They are used to stretch small branches. There are plastic or iron and zinc ones. In case you want to bend a branch of a young tree, it is preferable to keep it tied for a few months with an elastic plastic thread so that it can adapt to the figure of the skeleton.


Mastics

They serve to protect the wound from parasites, but also from attacks of frost or humidity. It is preferable to use those mastics produced with mineral, animal or vegetable waxes.


Ladder and gloves

The ladder, of course, must combine the characteristics of solidity and easy handling. The gloves must be resistant to thorns or splinters at the same time, but also soft and of a precise size to the hand to allow excellent movements and dexterity.


Cutting on stripping shrubs

If the plant is a sucker and therefore easily emits stems from the roots, it is necessary to cut the sucker near the bud to facilitate the emission of other jets capable of forming a dense bush. The shoots will then be shortened in moderation to form the canopy of the shrub. For non-sucking shrubs, planting interventions will be limited, with less radical shortening. About 5 branches will form on the stem that will form the skeleton of the bush. Subsequently, the branches will be shortened to a limited extent to facilitate the enlargement of the foliage.


Cutting on evergreen shrubs

Evergreens differ from the previous ones to keep their leaves throughout the year. For the cutting of the plant to which the evergreen trees are subject, the basic scaffold is built, with a cut at the desired height, then the topping of the shoots is carried out even during the summer to favor or develop an enlarged crown and harmonious shape.


Cutting on climbing shrubs

The climbers, without stems that stand independently, support themselves to other plants, or on rocks and walls or other holds created by the grower. Also for the climbing plants a cut is made at the base to favor the emission of new jets among which the strongest ones will be oriented in order above the support surface. Subsequently, with a clean cut, the main shoots will be shortened among those in which new shoots have been born and among these the strongest ones will be chosen to continue the scaffolding. Later, if flowering occurs during the first year, the side branches will be pruned at the end of winter, to renew the vegetation every year in order to avoid overlapping. In case of abundant vegetation, to lighten the climber, a couple of rimonda prunings can be carried out afterwards, so as to avoid suffocation of the harmonic forms of the plant.




Passion and attention to detail ensure that our customers are always satisfied.

The Bianchetto Sagl Lavori forestali company was founded in 2019 by Damiano Bianchetto, a licensed silviculturist, specialized in the care of greenery and forestry.

Passion and desire to work combine with our skills to achieve the maximum goal which is customer satisfaction.

We guarantee a service with attention to the smallest details and respecting nature and your property.

· Tree cutting
· Tree pruning
· Controlled felling
· Ground cleaning
· Branch grinding
· Garden maintenance
· Construction of wooden works
· Excavations
· Transportation
· Snow clearing

Do not hesitate to contact us for a free quote and an inspection.

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Contact us now and request a non-binding quote, call us for a free inspection without any kind of commitment. Do you need advice? We will be happy to answer your questions.


PRUNING CYPRESSES

The Cypress plant, especially in Tuscany, is a very widespread and used plant, its presence as a planted ornamental plant or as an autochthonous essence is very widespread in the Tuscan landscape.

The Tuscan Cypress, such as the Arizonica Cypress, and the Leyland Cypress (often used for the construction of hedges) are pruned at various times of the year.

The pruning of the Tuscan cypress is a practice commonly used for the tapered maintenance of the characteristic crown of the cypress.

Sometimes, the development of the branches, and the weighting of the same with the typical "fruits" of the cypress, cause an external curvature of the branches, which with the advent of winds or snow prevents their natural vertical growth.

The Leyland cypress is also subject to the same pruning interventions, and perhaps even more than its more prestigious cousin has greater restructuring capacity after even a drastic pruning.

In fact, it almost always happens that following a pruning, the branches left uncovered in the sunlight react by forming new shoots, thus allowing the restoration of the original structure chosen especially when forming visual barriers such as hedges and screens.

The first pruning of the Tuscan cypress or the Leyland cypress requires the choice of the definitive height that the plant must have, after which it is sufficient to intervene with a certain frequency to prevent its uncontrolled growth for the top.

A fairly common practice is cutting the tip of the cypress, a drastic solution to restore the original height of the plant.


16 Trees Ideal for Small Gardens

One of the greatest anxieties of those who have a small garden, or only a balcony or a small terrace, is that of "not being able to afford a tree".
Leaving aside philosophical and anthropological considerations here, the tree is that element that gives maturity to a garden. An imposing tree says, "Hey, look at me, I've been here for a long time, I have so many stories to tell you." This suggestion (usually) is lacking in a garden without trees or other elements that introduce the "time" element (such as stones, for example).

But Nature is very vast in shapes and sizes, and if we certainly cannot grow a baobab in the balcony box, all those small trees or large shrubs, which often have multiple stems, will help us. Among other things, these species benefit from a shorter distance from the borders than those with tall trees.
When it comes to large shrubs, don't make the mistake of buying an adult specimen and then pruning it. Instead, it is better to buy it young and raise it as an “astone”, that is, with a single stem, by ticking the lateral shoots. Remember that a professional in the garden sector will always be able to give you the best advice and show you what and how you can plant in your garden.

1. Ceanothus
Very interesting plant of North American origin. Very popular in England, where splendid varieties have been produced, and where, moreover, it seems to live better than here, perhaps because of the abundant rains.
Yet the Ceanothus theoretically it would not need as much water, since it is among the plants that form a diverse group of elements of the American flora called chaparral which settles in poor, arid and stony areas. It suffers, in fact, particularly the cold and the wind, and not having a very dense root system it is easily uprooted.

To make it grow as in the photo, like a sapling, you need patience. Buy a young and vigorous bush, and raise it as a spike, supporting it with braces and cutting off all the lateral shoots. It will take a few years and in any case the dimensions will never be bloated.

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2. Cornus kousa
Make a wish and the Cornus kousa will fulfill it. There is no merit that he is not gifted with.
Flowering is delicate, romantic and abundant. It fits perfectly into a Zen scenario (after all it's a Japanese tree) or an opulent garden.
The shape of the fronds is compact. Growth is slow and does not exceed six meters in more than optimal conditions, and in any case only after decades. Flowering is followed by beautiful strawberry-colored fruits which are edible, but not pleasant.
But that's not all, because the Cornus kousa in autumn it is tinged with reddish-orange, making the garden “flamboyant”. With a very rustic appearance, it loves cool locations and deep and humid, but well-drained soil.

3. Cercis occidentalis
THE Cercis (called "Judas Tree"), have a beautiful spring pink bloom. The peculiarity of some types is that the flowers are born directly on the bark, sometimes covering the entire tree. It can be grown as a bush, or by scaffolding it a little higher, as a small tree.

THE Cercis long brown pods ripen, inside which the seeds are enclosed, which make the tree a bit "messy". You should be patient and eliminate them all by hand or with an olive rake.
The foliage is beautiful: shiny, rounded and kidney-shaped. Flowering is very early.


Tree cutting - garden

CONTROLLED FELLING, CUTTING and PRUNING OF TREES

FELLING, CUTTING and PRUNING TREES

Mugello, Prato, Florence and prov.

When it is necessary to proceed with the felling of a tree or the pruning of a tall tree, it is essential to apply the correct method to operate in a safe work environment and to proceed in the most effective way.

When cutting down a tree or pruning using a chainsaw, the preparation phase is essential: the procedure must be planned and the equipment to be used to work in high safety and facilitate subsequent operations must be chosen.

Before proceeding at ASA Giardini, we carry out a series of surveys and preparatory operations: height measurement, evaluation of fall spaces, list of preliminary activities and pruning of branches, cleaning of the work area, determination of escape routes.

One of the preliminary activities that we always follow is theplant analysis, or circle if there are signs that may indicate the presence of diseases and therefore potential problems with the trunk: swelling, rot or weak fibers that can influence the phase of the fall. At the end of the cutting operations, we clean the entire work area.

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Free gardening quotes

Do you want to proceed with the felling of the trees in your garden? How to do it safely? Keep reading this little guide for useful information and tips on how to find an experienced gardener in your area.

How much does the felling of trees cost?

Removing a tree safely costs between € 200 and € 800 each. The exact price, however, depends on several elements, such as the height of the tree, its position and the difficulty of the intervention. In the following table you will find the price ranges for small, medium and large trees.

AbatementDetailsRough price
Trees Small size180 - 250 € each
Medium sized200 - 400 € each
Tall trunk400 - 800 € each
Permits 10 - 20 €

Contact a gardener in your area and save

Are you looking for a gardener in your area for the maintenance and felling of the trees in your garden? Finding a reliable and affordable figure can take some time. To speed things up, use our service. Receive several free quotes within hours. Fill out our form with your zip code and you will immediately find out which experts in your area are available to carry out your project. Compare their offers and choose the most convenient offer.

How to decide whether to cut down a tree?

The main reasons for deciding to proceed with the felling of the trees are:

  • the security
  • any instability of the ground
  • the condition of the trees.

The first reason why a tree must be cut down is for safety reasons. If the plant in question is very large but not very resistant, with its failure, it can cause damage if, for example, exposed to strong winds.
If, on the other hand, the tree has roots that expand with great speed, damaging any paths or cemented areas, it will be convenient to cut it down in time.
Finally, a diseased, poorly resistant tree that cannot be reinvigorated by pruning can be easily removed to make room for a new plant.

How do you cut down a tree?

Before cutting a tree in the garden, it is necessary to proceed with a general cleaning of the area and the plant. The protruding branches must be eliminated before intervening on the trunk, so that, falling, they do not create problems.
For all types of trees, but especially for the tallest ones, it is important to choose the fall side carefully. In order not to have any nasty surprises, a cut is made, at an angle of about 45 degrees, on the side chosen near the base of the trunk. We will then proceed with the cut, with a chainsaw, on the opposite side. In this way, it will be possible to control the fall with ease.

When there is a need for a permit for the felling of trees

Felling a tree can be a dangerous job. For this reason, it is regulated by dedicated laws. In fact, if you cut down a tree with a trunk with a diameter equal to and greater than 80 cm and higher than 130 cm, you will need to request a permit from your municipality. The cost of this document is not high, it only requires a revenue stamp, and is valid for both public and private areas. For smaller shrubs, however, you will not have to ask for a permit and you will only need to make sure you proceed in complete safety. If the tree is damaged, it risks falling and causing damage to things or people, you can, however, act as soon as possible, without permission, but making sure you have secured the area. In any case, it is better to rely on an experienced gardener.

Which equipment to choose for felling?

Depending on the size of the tree, different tools will be required. Usually, for trees of medium and large dimensions, they are cut down with a chainsaw. For the smaller ones, it will be possible to use an ax instead.
If you want to do this job yourself, make sure you have, in addition to the chainsaw and an ax, other safety-related tools such as, for example, the braking bar or felling wedges, which make the job easier.

Find the expert near you and start your project

Now that you have the necessary information on felling trees, get in touch with the gardeners in your area and ask about your project. Enter your zip code and receive personalized quotes within one business day. By comparing different offers you will be able to choose the most convenient one, taking into consideration not only the price, but also the expected timing. This way, you will save up to 40%.


Video: Amazing Fastest Skill Cutting Big Tree ChainSaw Machines, Heavy Biggest Felling Tree Machine working