What to do in the garden and vegetable garden in August
We are searching data for your request:
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.
August in our region practically ends the season of hard work of gardeners. This season, for many of them, this month is the last hope to wait for summer and improve the condition of those crops that from May to July experienced constant stress: severe frosts, a long period of cool and rainy weather.
It is August that generously presents the harvest of heat-loving crops - tomatoes, peppers and especially cucumbers. The exuberant flowering of all flowers, both perennial and annual, continues to delight.
However, there is still a lot of urgent work to get a decent harvest of most crops, especially vegetables and potatoes.
Prolonged inclement weather during June-July led to a violent flourishing of fungal diseases: on potatoes - late blight, on cabbage - bacteriosis, on onions - downy mildew, on table beets - cercosporia, on carrots - Alternaria (black rot), on peas - powdery mildew, on beans - bacteriosis. Severe damage is also observed on fruit and berry crops: scab is rampant on apple and pear, coccomycosis and moniliosis on cherries and plums, powdery mildew and anthracnose on currants and gooseberries, and gray rot on raspberries and strawberries.
Gardeners who have taken protective measures since early spring have largely reduced the damage from these fungal diseases.
However, in August it is necessary to perform spraying against diseases and pests. If this is not done, then the harvest that was obtained this season by hard work will be of poor quality and not suitable for autumn-winter storage.
August in our region is the beginning of the harvest season. That is why it is necessary to choose the optimal time for harvesting crops that will need to be stored. These include: potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, onions, garlic. The rainy, cool weather delayed the maturation of these crops, delaying the harvest time. However, in many areas, due to waterlogging and infection with fungal diseases, the growing season, that is, the growth of the vegetative mass and the outflow of nutrients into the bulbs, tubers, fruits, has practically ended. This means that overexposure to crops that have stopped growing in the field can lead to secondary infection with fungal diseases that live in the soil: various types of scab, rhizoctonia, black leg, ring rot, Alternaria, sclerotinia and others.
That is why, as soon as good sunny weather is established, it is necessary to promptly start harvesting, first of all, winter garlic and onions, then early potatoes, all varietal potato plantings, at the end of the month - squash and pumpkins. But remember that for the autumn-winter storage of zucchini and pumpkins, it is necessary to take fruits that have remained on the plant for at least 25-30 days. Unripe fruits are not suitable for long-term storage. They can only be used for recycling.
At the beginning of the month, it is necessary to carry out the last pinching and pinching of all shoots with unblown tomato flowers. This event will accelerate the ripening of the set flowers and avoid damage to the fruit by late blight. To keep the fruits of tomatoes from rot, especially in this season, they are removed selectively brown, whitened and even green and ripened in a lighted, warm, dry and ventilated room.
At the end of August, the fruiting of cucumbers ends in greenhouses and shelters. After the last harvest, these structures can be used to grow radishes, lettuce and dill.
August is a month not only for the collection of most vegetable and berry crops, but also for their preparation for future use: freezing, salting, pickling and canning.
Mass flowering of all annual and perennial flowers continues in the gardens. In terms of the abundance of flowers, August is the richest month. Don't miss the time to harvest annual seeds.
Gardeners need not to waste time for planting a new crop, especially garden strawberries, which must be freed from weeds, whiskers in time, loosened, fertilized and treated against pests and diseases.
Caring for cabbage and root crops (carrots, beets, radishes) continues. If cabbage moth and scoops are found on cabbage, you can also make treatment with Iskra or Confidor preparations. In addition to weeding, root crops should be thinned and fed with potash fertilizer to ensure good filling and further normal storage.
A very important work that needs to be completed in August - preparation of basements, caissons, pits - first of all, disinfection. There are several ways: for 2-3 days, the premises are gassed, burning sulfur bombs at the rate of 50 g per 1 m² of storage, and the floor and walls are treated with bleach (400 g per 10 l of water). All kinds of storages must be dried.
The creation of their own composts is going on intensively: manure-peat or manure-earthen, which must be shoveled, made layered: a layer of manure, a layer of peat, a layer of grass, etc. The thickness of the layers is arbitrary, 20-40 cm. It is very good if you add superphosphate or dolomite flour to the manure layer - 1% of the weight of the manure. All this must be well tamped, and it is not necessary to cover it with a film so that there is air exchange. This will allow you to get an excellent organic fertilizer that can be used in spring for all crops.
Those gardeners who use green manure as an organic fertilizer should prepare for sowing winter rye, because it is one of the best in its qualities. In addition to enriching the soil with the main nutrients, rye reduces the incidence of potatoes with rhizoctonia, black leg, common scab, effectively combats vascular bacteriosis and cabbage keel, and reduces the harmfulness of nematodes on strawberries and potatoes. The best time for sowing winter rye in the Leningrad Region is the end of August. The optimal sowing time ensures good autumn development and wintering of winter rye.
Doctor of Agricultural Sciences,
VNIIR them. N. I. Vavilova
Fig. V. Glotova
10 important things to do in the garden in August
1. Dig out the onion. The signal for action should be the complete drying of the aerial part and the formation of covering scales on the bulbs. About two weeks before harvesting, watering of crops is stopped, then they wait for dry sunny weather and harvest. The bulbs removed from the ground are left on the ground to dry, and after a few hours they are removed to a well-ventilated room.
2. Collect the spring garlic. You need to remove the garlic 5-7 days after the leaves turn completely yellow. In order for the bulbs to be larger and look healthy, some time before, their leaves are tied in a knot. By the way, this option will help them turn yellow faster if they are still green.
3. Thin roots and melons. If the carrots and beets are growing too tightly together, give each root vegetable more room by removing too small ones. Watermelons and melons also need to remove excess ovaries: this is necessary so that larger and stronger specimens can ripen. For the same reason, do not forget to remove the female flowers as well.
4. Propagate perennial vegetables. Divide tiered bow, chives and tarragon. They belong to those crops that can be successfully grown even on a windowsill in winter. It is best to breed perennial vegetable crops towards the end of August.
5. Plant green crops. Sow parsley, celery, dill, fennel, lettuce, or spinach in the space vacated by the early potatoes and cabbage. At the same time, it is important that all varieties of green crops have a short ripening period.
6. Set aside a place for green manure. If you want the field to rest a little after nightshades, plant it with "green fertilizers" - mustard, clover, rapeseed, oats, rye, phacelia and other green manures. Subsequently, they are mowed and embedded in the ground, creating an alternative to the introduction of organic fertilizers.
7. Make time for tomatoes. In August, tomatoes need pinching and treatment against late blight. The August removal of unnecessary shoots is the last of this season. Simultaneously with pinching, pinching is also carried out, adjusting the height of the plants.
8. Feed your vegetables. To improve the volume and quality of the harvest, fruit-bearing vegetables are fertilized with both organic matter and minerals. From folk remedies, use top dressing with ash or nettles.
9. Drizzle over the eggplant. In order for the fruits not to taste bitter, even before the start of the harvest, in August, they should be watered abundantly, during each of the procedures, spending at least 3 liters of water per plant.
10. Take stock for the winter. In August-September, the work is slowly "moved" from the site to the kitchen, and in order to ensure that their entire volume does not fall on the first month of autumn, preserve suitable varieties of vegetables for future use, in batches. With reasonable planning of plantings, you can "close" the same cucumbers in portions in the fall.
Works in the flower garden in August
If you want a flowering bush to delight you with splendor and an abundance of flowers (for example, dahlias), pinch the central shoots. And if you want to get a tall and large flower, then you need to pinch the side shoots.
If you believe in folk signs, then in August you should take a closer look at the vegetable garden, garden and flower garden:
August 1 - Macrida Day, broadcasting autumn weather. Autumn should be dry if the sun is shining on Makrida. If it rains, then the fall will be rainy and damp. Macrida also gave forecasts for the next year: rainy weather on this day promises a generous harvest in the coming year.
4 august - Day of Mary Magdalene. Before the sun rose, the girls went out into the meadow and collected the dew.
August 7 - Anna is summer. There is a belief: the afternoon weather is an indicator of the winter pre-December weather, and the afternoon weather is an indicator of the winter, post-December weather. This day is also called the Day of Anna the Winter Pointer.
- ants are building a large anthill - this indicates the coming cold winter
- the appearance of frost in the morning - also promises a cold winter
- if the oak is clearly hung with acorns, the winter will be warm
- it has started raining - winter will make you fall asleep with snow.
What work needs to be done in the garden in August
August is insidious with cold dews, so you should worry about plants in the open field in advance. In the first days of the month, you need to remove large fruits from tomatoes, and cover the bed with a film or covering material. The heat will return more than once, and the plants will be able to bear fruit in the open field until the very Indian summer.
It is better to close hotbeds and greenhouses at night. In greenhouses, continue to process tomatoes: remove dry leaves, avoid thickening of greens, pinch the tops in time. Tomato fruits that have gained enough weight must be removed green so that the ones remaining on the branches are poured faster.
You should not remove all the flower clusters; in favorable weather, they can still give a good harvest.
If the frost nevertheless grabs the fruits on the branch, they should be immersed in hot water at a temperature of 60 degrees for 2 minutes immediately after collection in order to avoid further decay.
It is best to store tomatoes in a cool place, placing the stalks upside down in boxes and sprinkling them with peat or sawdust. Do not forget to sort out the tomatoes in time, remove the reddened fruits.
In August, the fruiting of cucumbers is at its peak, so you need to water regularly and collect vegetables in a timely manner. The more often it is harvested, the greater the harvest. Cucumbers are poured mainly at night, so it is better to water them with warm water the night before before picking. On cloudy days, cucumbers are harvested less often.
At the same time, it is necessary to clean the greenhouse of yellow and wilted leaves. Leaves should be removed carefully, at the very base of the branch, otherwise the whip may rot.
To prolong the fruiting of cucumbers, you can warm up the topsoil by mulching with freshly cut grass or humus. Hilling and loosening in the root zone is very useful. Top dressing for cucumbers also does not hurt, for this purpose, 1 glass of wood ash is diluted in a bucket of water and insisted for a day, then watered with the resulting infusion. Spraying plants with ash decoction will protect them from many diseases and pests.
Fruit tree care
The primary task in August is watering trees and shrubs, of course, in the absence of heavy rains. This is a necessary condition for maintaining the strength and successful wintering of plants. Fruit trees are watered and fed with nitrogen fertilizers even before the harvest. Excellent support for weakened trees - fertilizers with trace elements and potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon per bucket of water).
To avoid fruit falling off, the trees should be sprayed with a urea solution (50 g per bucket of water) one month before harvest. Processing is best done in the evening on a cloudy day.
For the winter, it is useful to add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the soil (300 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium salt per bucket of water). From pests, it is good to spray trees with an infusion of garlic with laundry soap. To prepare the infusion, put 150 g of crushed garlic cloves in a 3-liter jar and fill with water. Insist for at least 3 days, then strain and add 40 g of laundry soap. Processing with this infusion will protect trees from aphids, ticks and thrips.
Garden in August
1. Collect fruits and berries. Do not let apples and pears overripe; remove them 3-5 days before ripening. At the same time, try not to spoil the skin so that the fruits are stored longer. Burn the carrion so that the moth does not multiply. Remove varieties of cherry plum that are prone to shedding first.
Strengthen the branches strewn with fruits and berries with props to make it easier for trees and shrubs to survive until the end of the season.
2. Check tree grafts and budding. Continue to monitor the survival rate of vaccinations and eyes given in July. Remove unsuccessful grafts immediately so that the tree does not waste energy on them. Finish budding apple, pear and mountain ash by the middle of the month.
3. Plant shrub cuttings. Be sure to add humus or rotted compost (1 bucket) to the planting hole and remove weeds. Plant the cuttings obliquely, cut off the tops to make it easier for the roots to feed the aerial part. Moisten the soil thoroughly and monitor watering throughout the month.
4. Prune the raspberries and plant the seedlings. Remove overgrowth and any stems that have matured. Towards the end of August, you can start planting seedlings - they take root well at this time.
5. Do not delay planting garden strawberries (strawberries). Take up the propagation of bushes so that young plants have time to take root and build up a green mass to cover the rhizome. Also take care of adult plants, loosen the soil and add 1 tsp under each bush. any complex autumn fertilizer. Remove excess whiskers so that they do not weaken the plant.
6. Tidy up the currant and gooseberry bushes. After picking berries from the bushes, cut off all diseased shoots, loosen the soil and remove weeds. Inspect the plants for pests and, if necessary, spray with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or folk remedies. Feed the plants with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (30-40 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potassium sulfate per 1 adult bush).
7. Water trees and bushes.Reduce watering of trees gradually, but do not stop completely if the weather is hot and dry. Berry bushes need moisture, because they form flower buds for next year's harvest. Pour warm water over them at the rate of:
red currants - 1-2 buckets per bush
black currant - 3-4 buckets
raspberries - 5-6 buckets per sq.m.
8. Perform sanitary pruning. Also, cut out vertical shoots that thicken the crown and prevent the fruit from ripening well. For young plums and sweet cherries, remove the vertical shoots, and reject some of them to a horizontal position, tying them to strong branches. This will improve fruiting in the future.
9. Prepare holes for the autumn planting of seedlings. Be sure to lay drainage on the bottom (expanded clay, broken brick, crushed stone, stones), add at least 2 buckets of compost or humus, and also add mineral fertilizers (superphosphate, potassium chloride, etc.). Produce acidic soil. Fill the hole with layers of nutrient mixture and soil, then drive in a tree pole.