Calendar of works in May - garden, vegetable garden, flower garden, greenhouse
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May for gardeners is full of worries. But you just don't need to grab onto everything at once, striving at all costs to outmaneuver your neighbors! Better to take care of your health and plan everything carefully in accordance with the timing of planting.
- Garden in May
- Vegetable garden in May
- Flower garden in May
- Home greenhouse in May
Garden in May
Before blooming flower buds on fruit trees and shrubs, they are treated with insecticidal preparations against pests. But if the garden is small, and there is an opportunity to often visit the site, then it is better to collect pests by shaking them off the branches onto the covered film. This should be done twice a day, in the morning and in the evening, at an air temperature not higher than 8 ... 10 ° С. It was at this time that the bugs are slightly "inhibited" and do not fly away, they are easy to collect and destroy. At the beginning of May, trapping belts are applied to the trunks of fruit trees in order to catch pests that rise up from the ground.
In May, the shoots frozen in winter are already clearly visible, they should be tried to be cut off before flowering, and sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm are carefully covered with garden var. Planting or transplanting fruit trees and shrubs is completed no later than the first decade or the middle of the month.
The soil in the near-trunk circles and under the berry bushes must be loosened to a depth of 10 cm and mulched. Plants and fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers (preferably in the form of a solution) or rotted manure will be useful.
Night frosts are not uncommon in May, especially during flowering orchards. Then smoke is carried out using piles of straw or dry foliage prepared in advance.
At the end of the month, the flowering of fruit trees usually ends, the formation of ovaries begins. During this period, the saturation of the soil with moisture is of particular importance. If the weather is dry, be sure to water the trees. For the convenience of this operation, you can do the following. Take a metal tape 15 cm wide and about 2 m long (or decorative plastic), evenly go around the trunk circle and slightly bury it in the soil. It will be very convenient to pour water inside this circle, it will not spread. The dimensions of the ring must be compared with the dimensions of the tree. Such a ring will serve here for several years. Berry and ornamental bushes can be fenced in the same way.
It is useful to add wood ash or organic matter under the currant bushes and carefully mulch them. This will make it difficult for overwintered pests to get out of the soil and will serve as a good fertilizing for the plants. But it will be even safer to cover the soil under the bushes for a while with a film or other dense material - at a time when 3-4 leaves are already formed. This will significantly reduce the number of pests.
If it is not possible to add organic matter directly under the bushes, then before flowering, each adult bush must be fed with two buckets of a solution of organic or mineral fertilizers. Young bushes are fed according to their size - about 0.5-1 buckets.
If young layers of currants and gooseberries are needed for reproduction, then after loosening the soil at the foot of the bushes, small grooves are made into which suitable branches (0.5-1 cm in diameter) are laid, fixed with hairpins and sprinkled with soil. At the end of summer, these will already be ready-made young seedlings of their own roots.
Raspberries are examined and all frozen shoots are cut out, the tops of full-fledged shoots are shortened by 30-40 cm. The soil under the raspberries is mulched with a thick layer of humus, it is especially responsive to this. The shoots are tied up with twine so that they do not lie down in the future under the weight of foliage and fruits.
Garden strawberry beds are cleaned of dry foliage. At this time, it is already clearly visible which bushes are frozen. They need to be discarded and replaced with young outlets. The aisles are dug up with the introduction of humus and mulch.
It is useful to add about one tablespoon of wood ash under each bush. To do this, a groove is made along the rows, into which ash is introduced, then covered with soil and watered abundantly. Before flowering, strawberries must be fed with a solution of organic matter or mineral fertilizers, making about 1 bucket of solution per running meter.
During frosts, the berry is carefully covered, because the flowers freeze even in the bud stage, which significantly reduces the yield of the plantation.
Vegetable garden in May
To avoid a sharp load on the body, it is better to prepare the soil for vegetable crops gradually, as the time comes for their planting. I recommend that you first dig up part of the plot for crops sown in the first half of May. After that, you can, without haste, gradually dig the ridges and under the rest of the vegetables. During these few days, weed seeds will already densely sprout on the untreated area, which will be destroyed for a long time during the subsequent digging, and you will not soon weed this part of the garden.
In early May, cold-resistant crops are planted - carrots, radishes, parsley, peas, radishes and kohlrabi cabbage continue to be sown. As a rule, no later than the first ten days of May, seedlings of early cabbage are planted in open ground. Onions are planted on greens.
In the second half of the month, if the weather permits, seeds of cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin (preferably under cover), beans, corn, beetroot are sown in open ground, late cabbage seedlings and onions are planted on a turnip. Seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers are planted in film greenhouses. Greenhouses need to be covered with foil in advance so that the soil warms up well and the seedlings take root without stress. In hot weather, it needs watering with warm water every 3-4 days.
In May, the first crop is already being harvested in the gardens: greens of perennial onions, sorrel, celery, parsley, as well as spinach and salads, especially if you were not too lazy to sow them in early spring in greenhouses before planting the main crops there.
When determining the timing of planting potatoes, I advise you to focus on nature: as soon as the leaves of the birch appear, it is time to plant the tubers. Although, to get an early harvest, you can plant part of the tubers (preferably sprouted) in late April or early May. When planting, it is useful to add well-rotted humus and half a glass of wood ash to each hole. All this is mixed with the soil and the tuber is planted there, with the growth bud upward.
If there is a threat of night frost, do not forget to take measures to protect young shoots. To determine favorable days for planting potatoes, use the gardener's lunar sowing calendar for May.
Flower garden in May
Most of the perennial spring flowers already bloom in May. At this time, you need not only to admire their beauty, but also not to forget about weeding, watering in the absence of rain and loosening the soil.
In fading bulbous crops, it is necessary to carefully break off the faded corollas. It is undesirable for the falling tulip petals to scatter around and stick to the leaves. If you do not cut off the fading arrows of the muscari, then fruits with seeds are formed on them, they will then clog the plantings by self-seeding.
It's time to plant seedlings of flowers and seeds in open ground. If the weather did not allow planting gladioli in late April or early May, then this should be done as soon as such an opportunity arises. Towards the end of the month, dahlia tubers are also planted. For climbing plants, cords are pulled in advance and decorative supports are made.
Feeding the garden and vegetable garden with fertilizer solutions, do not forget about the flower garden and ornamental shrubs. Because it is in May that they especially need nutrition in order to gain strength after hibernation and bloom and turn green violently in summer and autumn.
Home greenhouse in May
In May, many indoor plants already delight us with active growth and flowering. Water them more abundantly, feed them more often. Indeed, being in a limited volume of soil - in pots, plants absorb the nutrients in it faster, and when watering, some of them are also washed out.
You can fertilize according to a different scheme: either once every 10-14 days, or use a very weak solution of fertilizers with each watering. 1-2 hours before feeding, the plants need to be watered with clean water.
I will not recommend any types of fertilizers, but I will clarify that I personally prefer to use solutions of high-quality mineral and organic fertilizers available on the market. I don't use various folk methods (like eggshell infusions or water after washing meat, etc.).
On quiet, fine days, when the air temperature is not lower than 18 ° C, you can arrange air baths for indoor plants - take them out in the morning and until evening to fresh air. Or even move to a glazed balcony if there is no night frost. Outdoor summer vacations are beneficial for our pets.
Photo by the author
Garden and garden work in April
Calendar of work in the garden and in the garden in April.
Work at the dacha in April. What needs to be done in the garden and in the garden in April. Everything you need to do at the dacha in April.
List of works in the garden and in the garden for April
1. April is a responsible month. First of all, you need to drain excess water from the site. To do this, dig grooves along the slope of the site so that the water flows into the ditch. If there is no slope on the site, then just dig a shallow groove, gradually deepening it so that the water flows in the direction you want. Stagnation of water on raspberries, strawberries and clematis is especially dangerous.
2. At the beginning of the month, it is necessary to remove spruce branches from young plantings of strawberries, roses, irises, clematis, lilies, especially from oriental hybrids, since under a warm shelter they will quickly grow and their flower bud may freeze during recurrent frosts. However, do not rush to remove boxes from roses and clematis.
3. Feed with nitrogen fertilizer (3 tablespoons of urea per 10 liters of water) lovage, rhubarb, sorrel, raspberries. Instead of urea, you can use an infusion of manure or poultry droppings diluted with water 1:10 or 1: 20, respectively. If at the same time you cover these plantings with lutrasil or put arcs over them and stretch the film, then by May 1 you will already have greens.
4. If the compost heap is located in the sun, then you can sow early greens (chervil, watercress, cilantro, parsley, lettuce, spinach, dill) and early carrots, as well as radishes on it. To do this, spill last year's pile of compost with hot water, pour a layer of soil about 7-8 cm high on top of the compost and sow seeds. I usually do it like this: I mix 1 teaspoon of seeds with half a glass of sand and sow in the furrows as I salt food.
You can use special seeders, in which the hole is adjusted according to the size of the seeds. In this case, the seedlings will not be thickened.
From above, the crops can be covered with foil until shoots appear. Heat and moisture are retained under the film, and crops appear faster. After the emergence of seedlings, the film must be removed, otherwise the seedlings may burn under the film. If you cover the crops with lutrasil or spunbond, then the covering material can not be removed until the plants grow up, but before sprouting, the crops should be watered directly over the material, if the weather is dry or windy, so that the hatched seeds do not dry out in the upper drying layer of soil.
5. At the beginning of the month, pre-grow weeds on vegetable beds, covering the beds with an old film and securing it so that the wind does not blow away. Weeds will quickly grow under the film, so as soon as they appear, remove the film and loosen the beds, leaving them open for a day. Then cover with plastic foil again and repeat the operation. Now there are no weeds in the top layer of the soil. It is important not to dig up the soil, but only before sowing to loosen it with a Fokin flat cutter, then make furrows for sowing with the sharp end of the flat cutter. Sowing in open ground of all the crops listed above can be done at the time of flowering coltsfoot, that is, in late April-early May.
6. Leaf parsley for herbs and bush dill can be sown in early April. In mid-April, you can sow marigolds, marigolds, zinnia on seedlings.
7. At home, water the seedlings of tomatoes and peppers sparingly, so as not to overmoisten the soil. Remember that your seedlings need good lighting. As a top dressing, I use a weak solution of "Uniflora-growth" (1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water), which I water the seedlings instead of water. Do not forget to spray the leaves of tomatoes and eggplants with a very weak solution of a copper preparation (the easiest way is to use chlorine oxide of copper - HOM, dissolving one fifth of a teaspoon of the powder in 5 liters of water). The solution may stand, you will use it two more times about every two weeks. This is a good preventive measure against late blight. But the often recommended spraying with a manganese solution can not be done, since it does not save from late blight, and other diseases rarely appear on tomato seedlings. A solution of potassium permanganate can be sprayed with pepper, especially if it is annoyed by aphids.
Pepper is difficult to protect from aphid attack if there are indoor plants in the same room where the seedlings grow. Spraying any plants and at any time with a solution of the "Healthy Garden" preparation (4-5 grains per 1 liter of water) helps very well against aphids.
8. It's time to take the potatoes out of storage, put them in hot (45 degrees) water.
When the water has cooled, add potassium permanganate until bright pink and soak the tubers in the solution for 15 to 20 minutes. Then rinse the tubers, dry and lay out on vernalization in a bright and cool place.
At the end of April, remove the potatoes in cardboard boxes, sandwiching each layer with newspapers, and place the boxes in a warm place so that the potatoes will grow well. You will plant the grown tubers, thereby accelerating the ripening of the crop by two weeks.
9. If you have not done pruning, then at the very beginning of the month you can still do it. Start with blackcurrant, gooseberry, and honeysuckle bushes.
Trim the black ends of the branches, rejuvenate the bushes by cutting out old branches. In the gooseberry, all young shoots growing in the middle of the bush should be cut, only those that grow along the edges of the bush should be left.
In red and white currants, the tops of the branches are not cut off, but only old branches and those branches that branch into the crown are removed. In honeysuckle, pruning of thickening crown or broken branches is done.
10. Do not rush to prune cherries and plums, wait until freezing after wintering is clearly visible, or even better, leave pruning for autumn. The same goes for apple trees. After a harsh winter, the ends of the branches could freeze, but some of the branches will be able to recover from the buds on the bark, so do not rush to cut the branches, leave the pruning at the end of summer. The frozen wood has a light brown color on the cut. Start pruning from the end of the branch and, gradually moving from the end to the skeletal branches, you will get to the place where the cut is light - from this place the tissue of the tree is alive and you do not need to cut further.
11. To get early strawberries, cover at least one bed with plastic wrap or double thin lutrasil directly over the bushes.
12. Towards the end of the month, you should spray those plants in which the scales of the buds have moved apart and a green cone of leaves has appeared, since the first pests lay an egg at this very moment in the green cone of the leaf. It is best to use an infusion or decoction of strong-smelling herbs (such as tansy, garlic, or citrus peels) to disorient the pests.
13. April is a good time for vaccinations.In early April, you can cut the cuttings for grafting, wrap them in newspaper, put them in a plastic bag and dig in the snow from the north side of the house, but so that they are not flooded with melt water. At the end of the month, you can use these cuttings for grafting.
14. At the end of the month, sow the seeds of annuals and perennials that are not afraid of frost (poppy, escholzia, cosmea, cornflowers, iberis, catchment, forget-me-nots, marigolds) directly into the ground in place. The rest of the flowers can also be sown directly into the ground, even such as tobacco or petunia, but their crops should be covered with a film stretched over small arcs. Arcs are easy to make yourself from willow twigs, from which you should immediately remove the bark. The willow grows along the ditches.
15. At the end of the month, you can remove the shelter from all ornamental plants, except for clematis. It is better to cover their growing shoots with at least lutrasil.
Garden in June: major works
It is generally accepted that the beginning of summer is a relatively calm time for gardeners, since the complex of work in the garden in June is more focused on the care and reproduction of fruit and berry crops, their pruning and protection from pests and diseases.
A more detailed plan for gardening in June includes activities such as:
- - watering and feeding fruit trees and shrubs
- - sanitary pruning (removal of frozen branches and shoots)
- - green cuttings (propagation) of fruit trees and shrubs (plum, cherry, sea buckthorn, black currant, gooseberry)
- - caring for young vaccinations (green vaccinations)
- - care for strawberries (cutting "mustaches", as well as pinning and rooting them to get seedlings), harvesting strawberries
- - prevention / treatment of diseases, destruction of pests.
Watering and feeding in June
The more hopes the summer resident places on the future harvest, the more seriously one should approach the implementation of one of the main points of work in the garden in June, namely, watering and feeding fruit and berry plantations. So, young trees in the garden are recommended to be watered abundantly at least 4-5 times per season, and if the summer is too hot and dry - and more. Rare but abundant watering is considered optimal - both for trees and shrubs.
Water for fruit trees is run in "bowls" or through pre-drilled wells (0.5 m deep) filled with sand. If it is not possible to visit the garden often and provide planting with water, you can organize drip irrigation. In order to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture, the soil under the trees after watering is sprinkled with a 1-2 cm layer of dry soil, and after a couple of days, it is slightly loosened and mulched.
In dry weather, the bushes are watered twice - at the beginning of the month, when the plants grow actively and form ovaries, and at the end - when the berries begin to fill with juice. Cuttings and cuttings are allowed to be watered more often, but necessarily - with the condition of further loosening and mulching of the soil.
Watering the garden in June is combined with top dressing, especially if the plantings are placed on light sandstone or poor loam. Berry bushes are fed with slurry (at the rate of 1 liter of slurry per bucket of water) or infusion of bird droppings (0.5 liters per bucket of water). The recommended consumption rate is 1 bucket of finished top dressing for 2-3 shrubs.
Seedlings, spring and winter grafts are also fed with slurry or a solution of bird droppings, based on the calculation: 1 part of mullein per 10 parts of water or 1 part of bird droppings per 20 parts of water. Top dressing is carried out only after abundant watering of seedlings and vaccinations.
In a mature, already fruiting garden, at the end of flowering in June, apple and pear trees are fed with nitrogenous fertilizers. If the rows between the trees are turfed, then immediately after flowering, a urea solution is added under the planting (at the rate of 45 g of the product per 10 liters of water). The recommended consumption rate is 1 bucket of ready-made solution for 2-3 trees.
If the garden is located on sandy or peat soil, then in June it is better to feed the plantings not only with nitrogen, but also with potassium. It is applied simultaneously with nitrogenous feeding, based on the calculation: 9-12 g of ammonium nitrate and 10 g of potassium chloride per 1 sq. M. trunk circle.
Gardening work in June also includes pruning frozen shoots and branches from fruit and ornamental plants. Even now, during the inspection of the plantings, you can see the distinct boundaries of the growth of live shoots, and at the same time, you can identify and remove the dead branches.
Separate dry branches are allowed to be cut at any convenient time. The cut is made down to healthy, living tissue. Branches that are completely dry are cut into a ring. All wounds and places of cuts must be treated with garden varnish.
If a young tree froze out over the winter along the line of snow cover, it is cut off on a stump. Later, when many shoots are formed on it, only one of them is left - the healthiest and strongest. On the basis of this shoot, it will be possible to form a new crown in the future. The rest of the shoots are removed.
Reproduction of fruit trees and shrubs in June
A significant amount of work in the garden in June is associated precisely with activities for the cultivation and reproduction of fruit and berry plantings. So, for a month, summer residents reproduce the following fruit and berry crops, such as:
- - cherry
- - plum
- - sea buckthorn
- - black currant
- - gooseberry
- - raspberries
- - Rowan
- - strawberries, etc.
The end of the period of intensive growth of shoots is considered a favorable time for green cuttings of rowan, cherry, plum, sea buckthorn. Cherries, sea buckthorn and plums are usually cut in the first or second decade of June, black currants - in the middle of the month, gooseberries - at the end of the month. Strawberries are propagated by "whiskers" after they have faded and entered the fruiting phase.
You should first prepare a greenhouse in which the cuttings will take root. For this, a warm, dry place is also chosen on the site, illuminated, if possible, only in the morning hours (approximately until 09:00) and in the evening (starting at 19:00). The place under the greenhouse should not be in direct sunlight.
At the selected site, a pit or a short trench with a depth of 20-25 cm is set up.Then a box without a bottom is hammered out of clean boards - the same dimensions as the trench (foundation pit), after which it is installed inside the dug recess. The voids on the outside of the box are filled with earth and compacted, eliminating air pockets.
The bottom of the trench is covered with drainage material with a layer of 5-10 cm - it can be pebbles, crushed stone, broken silicate brick. A mixture of peat and coarse-grained river sand, taken in equal proportions, is poured over the drainage. The recommended thickness of the peat-sand layer is 15-20 cm.
The surface of the peat-sand layer is leveled and a 5-cm layer of clean, well-washed river sand is laid on it. It is also leveled, lightly compacted and watered thoroughly to thoroughly wet all layers up to drainage.
2-3 strong wire arcs are attached to the sides of the box, on which the film material is fixed. The edges of the film are tightly fixed at the bottom of the box walls, excluding the penetration of cold air into the greenhouse.
Cuttings with 2-3 internodes are suitable for breeding most fruit and berry crops. In order to accelerate root formation, their lower ends are pretreated with growth stimulants - for example, heteroauxin.
The planting of cuttings in moist sandy soil is usually carried out according to the 5x7 cm scheme, deepening the lower cut by 1.5-2 cm.At the end of planting, the cuttings are watered and the greenhouse is tightly closed.
The fast rooting of cuttings is facilitated by maintaining a relatively high air humidity in the greenhouse, which can be provided by periodic spraying of water from a spray bottle and regular watering. If all recommendations are followed, the cuttings take root in about 6-8 weeks.
In addition to the above activities, gardening work in June includes other tasks - in particular, green grafting, reproduction and care of strawberries, measures to protect the garden from pests. You can learn more about these and other seasonal works in the relevant publications on our website for summer residents, gardeners and truck farmers.
Lunar calendar for may 2021
The lunar landing calendar for May 2021 was compiled taking into account the location of the heavenly body on a particular day: different phases of the moon have a fundamentally different effect on plants. There are 4 phases in total, symbolizing the change of seasons on a micro-scale. Thus, the new moon marks the middle of winter, and the ¼ of the waxing moon represents spring in full swing. For planting, you need to choose periods that promote active plant growth. A correctly compiled calendar of planting seedlings for 2021 and the correct timing of agrotechnical work will allow you to get a good harvest, reduce the amount of non-standard and losses of vegetable and fruit crops.
On the new moon, watering is contraindicated, and with a full moon, it is necessary to provide plants (especially crops such as carrots, radishes and onions) with intensive moisture, since at this time the heavenly body affects the root system. When the satellite of the earth enters the first quarter of the growing phase, the sap of the plant moves along the stem - from the roots to the leaves.
At this time, planting and collecting green plants such as dill, parsley, basil and celery is most relevant. The green mass on such days is distinguished by the greatest juiciness, and the beneficial properties of the sprouts reach the highest mark. During the waning of the moon, all minerals and nutrients are concentrated underground: at this time, root crops are formed, and they are saturated with nutrients.
|The location of the celestial body (phase)||Time period in May|
Based on the specified information, the lunar landing calendar for May 2021 is formed, taking into account specific types of crops. During the growth of the moon, attention should be paid to sowing plants, the fruits of which are located above the surface of the earth, and during the decrease, to plant root seeds. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the new moon and full moon, the peak of which will be on May 11 and 26, 2021, have a negative impact not only on these days, but also the day before and after. So, it is better to give up any kind of work in the garden in the period from 10 to 12 May 2021, as well as from 25 to 27 May 2021.
Planting days in May 2021
Seedling planting calendar for 2021
|Seed preparation, soaking, processing||5, 13-17, 20, 22, 24, 28|
|Harvesting stems and cuttings||5, 13-17, 20, 22, 24|
|Tree grafting works||2, 5-7, 13-17, 21-24|
|Pruning shoots and branches||1-5, 8, 9, 18, 19, 29-31|
|Fertilizer preparation||1-5, 8, 9, 14, 18-21, 28-31|
|Plant picking||1-5, 8, 9, 14, 18, 19, 28-31|
|Cultivation, hilling, plowing||1-5, 8, 9, 14, 18, 19, 28, 29-31|
|Weeding plants, thinning beds||1-5, 8, 9, 14, 18, 19, 28, 29-31|
|Pest control||1-5, 8, 9, 14, 18, 19, 28, 29-31|
|Watering, irrigation||3, 5, 8, 9, 15, 18-21, 23, 28-31|
|Use of mineral fertilizers||13-17, 20-24|
|Use of organic fertilizers||1, 2, 5-7, 28, 29|
|Planting trees, shrubs||1, 2, 5, 13, 15-17, 20, 24, 28 and 29|
|Transplanting fruit tree seedlings into open ground - peach, wild garlic, apple tree, plum, pear, apricot, cherry, etc.||1, 2, 5, 13, 15-17, 20, 24, 28 and 29|
|Planting berry bushes - lemongrass, raspberries, currants, blueberries, gooseberries, hawthorns, as well as grape vines||1, 2, 5, 13, 15-17, 20, 24, 28 and 29|
|Planting berry bushes - strawberries, blueberries, honeysuckle, strawberries, blackberries||1, 2, 3, 5, 13, 15-17, 20, 24, 28 and 29|
|Zucchini, eggplant||1-6, 7, 28, 30, 31|
|White cabbage and cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, sunflower, asparagus||6, 7, 13, 29, 31|
|Potatoes||1, 3, 6, 7, 28-31|
|Bell peppers, sweet and hot peppers, lettuce, spinach, green parsley||13-15, 17, 20, 24|
|Radish, incl. daikon, legumes, radishes, beets, peas||6, 7, 9, 29-31|
|Turnip, corn, celery (root)||6, 7, 9, 28-31|
|Melons and gourds, incl. watermelon, melon, carrots, tomatoes, cucumbers||1-6, 7, 24, 28-30|
|Onions, garlic, root plants||1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 9, 28-31|
|Dill, sage, fennel, cilantro, cumin and other herbs||14, 15-17, 20-24|
Planting days for indoor plants in May-2021
13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21-24
Works in the flower garden in May
The main work in the flower garden in May is related to sowing seeds, planting seedlings and caring for already planted crops. This month, flower beds are gradually freed from winter shelters - spruce branches, dry foliage. They are removed, guided by the weather - if the spring is cold, then they are in no hurry to remove the shelters.
From about the 12th, they start sowing nasturtium seeds (in a seedless way). For sowing, seeds soaked during the day are used, based on the amount of 7-10 pieces per 1 running meter. The planting depth is 3-4 cm. Nasturtium enters the flowering phase about 40-50 days after sowing.
Until May 10, corms and tubers of gladioli are planted, having previously sorted out healthy specimens and cleared them of scales. Gladioli are planted in grooves, on the bottom of which a thin layer of sand is poured in advance.
At the beginning of the month, dahlias are divided, cutting them with a thin sharp knife so that on each division there are 1-2 root tubers with 1-2 buds and part of the root collar. Further, the delenki are dried and planted in boxes with soil mixture or fertile soil.
In the same period, they begin to reproduce lilies with scales, planting clematis, sowing one- and two-year-old flower crops. May is a great time to plant bluebells, mallow, foxglove, Turkish and Grenadine carnations.
In addition to planting in May, bulbous crops continue to be taken care of in the flower garden. They are watered abundantly for 2 weeks after the end of flowering, moistening the soil to a depth of about 20 cm. Also, during the whole time, do not forget to cull sick specimens, removing them along with a clod of earth and ruthlessly destroying them.
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