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The Scindapsus plant is part of the Aroid family. Under natural conditions, they grow in the tropical forests of southeastern Asia. The genus name was derived from the Greek word "skindapsos", which translates as "ivy-like tree." Quite often, inexperienced growers confuse Scindapsus liana with Epipremnum (Epipremnum) because these plants belong to the same Aroid family and have striking similarities. Below we will focus on the epipremnum, but to make it more convenient, both of these plants will be called scindapsus.
Brief description of cultivation
- Bloom... Scindapsus is grown as an ornamental deciduous plant.
- Illumination... Penumbra or shadow (the flower should stand at a distance of two meters from the south-facing window). Variegated varieties need more light than green foliage.
- Temperature regime... During the growing season - from 20 to 22 degrees, and in winter - from 14 to 16 degrees.
- Watering... Watering should be done regularly and in moderation. Do this immediately after the soil mixture in the pot dries out to 1/3 of the depth.
- Air humidity... It should be only slightly higher than usual (about 25 percent). Liana needs to be systematically moistened from a sprayer, regularly arrange a warm shower and rinse the foliage with a damp soft cloth (sponge).
- Fertilizer... The plant is fed throughout the growing season with a frequency of 1 time in 15–20 days, for this, a complex mineral fertilizer is used, while only ½ part of the dosage recommended on the package by the manufacturer is taken. In winter, feeding should be more rare - once every 6 weeks.
- Dormant period... Approximately from the second half of November to the last days of February.
- Transfer... While the vine is young, she needs an annual transplant. Adult plants are transplanted once every 2 or 3 years.
- Pinching, garter, trimming... They are carried out systematically.
- Reproduction... Layering, dividing the stems and grafting.
- Harmful insects... Aphids, thrips, spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects.
- Diseases... Rot may appear on the bush, and also due to improper care or due to inappropriate conditions of detention, it loses its decorative effect.
Features of scindapsus
In nature, the scindapsus plant is a powerful semi-epiphyte liana that wraps around tree trunks, while along them it can rise to a height of about 15 m. The scindapsus, like its related monstera plant, has not only a fibrous underground root system, but also aerial roots , which help the liana to climb very high and crawl thousands of meters. In Sri Lanka and Florida, such a vine occupies very large territories, and therefore they are fighting with it there as a dangerous parasite that negatively affects the environment in the region.
Indoors, scindapsus is a climbing plant with decorative variegated or rich green foliage, which is similar to the leaves of some philodendron species. Its leaf plates are alternately simple, glossy and leathery, their shape is oval. During flowering, a small inflorescence is formed that looks like an ear of corn, which is wrapped in a stipule like a blanket. However, the liana grown at home blooms extremely rarely, but it is undemanding to care for.
Scindapsus is a beautiful liana! How to quickly root a scindapsus ?!
Scindapsus care at home
Best of all, in the warm season, scindapsus grows and develops at an air temperature of 20 to 25 degrees. In winter, you need to make sure that the room where he is located is not colder than 12 degrees.
This liana is one of the shade-loving plants, therefore it can be placed at a distance of about 200 cm from a brightly lit window. But it must be borne in mind that variegated varieties need brighter lighting than green-leaved forms, otherwise the variegated pattern on their foliage may fade or disappear altogether. If the flower is placed in the darkest corner, then this can lead to massive flying around the foliage.
Watering the plant is relatively rare and not very large amount of water. So it is necessary to moisten the substrate in the pot only after it dries out by 1/3 in depth. If you start to water it more often or use more water for this, then rot may appear on the roots.
Liana grows best in a slightly high humidity (about 25 percent). However, it can develop quite normally at a lower level of humidity, but if you systematically moisten such a flower from a sprayer or wipe the foliage with a damp soft cloth, it will become even more beautiful. In the warm season, he can sometimes be given a warm shower, and in the winter months, you need to ensure that he is as far away from heating appliances as possible.
For 1 year, the stems increase in length by about 0.4 meters. In this regard, in order for the scindapsus to look neat all the time, it is necessary to systematically carry out formative pruning. If necessary, the trimmed parts of the shoots can be used as cuttings. And if desired, the bush can be regularly pinched, which will make it more branched. However, most often, supports (stairs or arches) are used to form young vines. For the formation of adult bushes, a plastic pipe is used, in which several holes are made. It is filled with moistened sphagnum and wrapped with copra. The air roots of the plant are directed into the holes made, this will allow them to receive additional moisture and nutrients.
In the spring-autumn period, the liana is fed regularly once every 15–20 days, and in winter the frequency of feeding is reduced to one every 1–2 months. To do this, use a liquid complex fertilizer in a half dose.
Young specimens need a systematic transplant, which is carried out every year. When the plant becomes an adult, it will be possible to replant it less often, or rather, once every 2 or 3 years. It is recommended to transplant at the beginning of the growing season, and this time falls in February – March.
It is recommended to use a low, but wide container for planting a flower, in this case it will be possible to systematically plant cuttings in it, which are rooted in advance, thanks to this the bush will become even more lush and effective. The most suitable substrate for transplantation should include sand, peat, leaf and humus soil (1: 1: 1: 1), while it is recommended to add a small amount of expanded clay or perlite to it. Don't forget to make a good drainage layer at the bottom of the pot.
Reproduction of scindapsus
Most often, flower growers propagate scindapsus by cuttings. The apical cuttings cut off during the formation of the bush for rooting can be placed in a container with water or planted in a substrate, they will give roots rather quickly. The main conditions for successful rooting:
- each cutting should have 2 or 3 leaf plates;
- the air temperature must be at least 22 degrees;
- a fairly large amount of light is needed.
During the harvesting of cuttings, a cut is made under the knot, after which the cut sites are treated with a solution of a means that stimulates root growth. Then they are planted for rooting in a soil mixture consisting of sphagnum and sand. Top cuttings are covered with a plastic transparent bag or glass jar. Roots appear after 15–20 days. You can also propagate the liana by layering and dividing the stem.
Scindapsus How to propagate scindapsus and make the bush lush
Diseases and pests
Scindapsus is characterized by a rather high resistance to both diseases and harmful insects. But with improper care and inappropriate conditions for growth, problems can arise with it.
- Yellow foliage... Most often this happens due to the fact that the plant suffers from a lack of nutrients. In this case, it must be fed.
- The tips of the sheet plates dry out... This happens extremely rarely and only if the flower is not far from a working heater and it has not been moistened with a sprayer for a very long time.
- Foliage flies... This is due to poor lighting and lack of power. A draft can also cause the leaves to fall.
- Rot has appeared on the shoots. The stems rot when the plant is in a cool place and is watered too often and abundantly.
- Foliage loses its decorative effect... If in variegated forms the foliage becomes simply green and its shrinkage is observed, this means that the plant does not have enough light. If, in green-leaved plants, the leaf plates become faded and specks form on them, then this indicates that the lighting is too intense.
- If the flower hits a fungal or viral disease, then it will be very difficult to cure it. However, such a plant is able to quickly recover. And it is also easily propagated by cuttings, in this regard, in case of emergency, prepare cuttings from healthy shoots and just grow a new flower.
- Pests... Most often, aphids, spider mites, thrips and scale insects settle on the flower. To get rid of pests, the bush will need to be treated with Actellik's solution (20 drops per 1 liter of water). If necessary, you can carry out up to 4 treatments with a break of 7 days.
Can Scindapsus be grown at home?
Some gardeners are afraid to decorate their home with scindapsus, because it is popularly considered a "muzhegon". So, they call those plants that are expelled from the husband's apartment. Believe it or not, it's up to you, but there are many happy families who have both a husband at home and a scindapsus on the wall. If you are still afraid to start such a plant, then choose any other flower, because there are so many of them. It is interesting that the oriental sages noticed completely different qualities in such a vine: it is able to absorb laziness and stagnant energy, soften the tense atmosphere in the apartment, inspire creativity, and also help find a way out of the psychological impasse.
Types of scindapsus with a photo
Scindapsus golden (Scindapsus aureus)
This type is most popular with florists. It is grown as an ampelous or climbing plant. If you decide to put it on the wall, then in this case the flower stems can grow in length up to 200 centimeters or more. The foliage of this species is outwardly similar to the philodendron, but it has a more spectacular color. On the surface of the leathery, shiny foliage, painted in green, there are splashes and smears of yellow color. The following cultural forms of golden scindapus are considered quite decorative:
- «Marble Queen»- sheet plates are almost completely white;
- «Golden Queen»- in this form, the foliage is rather yellow, and there are green spots on it;
- «Tricolor"- on the surface of the spectacular foliage there are many streaks of greenish, pale cream and dark green.
Scindapsus painted (Scindapsus pictus)
The stem of such a plant is angular; over time, warts form on its surface. Leathery short-peaked foliage of an egg-shaped dark green color is about 7 centimeters wide and up to 15 centimeters long. Its surface is decorated with silvery stains. The best varieties and shapes:
- The variegated form of Scindapsus pictus var. argyraeus... The foliage of this form is shorter and wider than that of the main species. On its surface there are small specks of regular shape.
- «Exotic". On the surface of large leaves, there are long silvery strokes and large spots.
Florists also grow such types of scindapsus as: feathery, forest and Siamese.
Scindapsus (Epipremnum, Potos). SCINADAPSE CARE TIPS
Caring for a tropical pet is minimal:
- Watering the scindapsus should be moderate and not too often: between waterings, the substrate in the pot should dry out at least a third. The plant tolerates light thirst well, but excessive or too frequent moistening of the soil can lead to decay of the root system.
- The scindapsus has successfully adapted to the dry air of the premises, but in the heat its leaves still need to be periodically sprayed with warm water or wiped with a damp sponge. From time to time, it is advisable to wash the vine under the shower, especially since after water procedures it looks refreshed and even more attractive. For the winter, it is recommended to remove the flower away from heating appliances.
- Frequent feeding of an exotic pet is not needed. The need for fertilizers arises only in the spring-summer period, when the scindapsus is actively increasing its green mass. From April to September, the flower is fed every 2-3 weeks with complex fertilizers for decorative deciduous crops. In winter and autumn, food is served no more than once a month.
With proper care, the annual growth of scindapsus shoots is 30-40 cm, so the plant must be formed at your own discretion. You can prune too long strands and use the cuttings as cuttings, or periodically pinch the tops of the heads, thereby stimulating branching of the shoots. However, most often the vines are given the desired shape with the help of supporting structures: for young plants, curly arches or bamboo ladders are chosen, and a strong metal or plastic tube with holes filled with wet sphagnum moss and wrapped in coconut fiber is suitable for a large adult scindapsus. Air roots are directed into the holes of the support, due to which the plant receives water and additional nutrition. If you place the vine at a height, it will soon look like a fantastic octopus with long tentacle shoots.
Pests and diseases
The main problems with the plant arise from improper care and maintenance. Most often, Vriezia is susceptible to the following diseases:
- The leaves turn black and wither. Occurs due to strong waterlogging of the soil. It is necessary to revise the irrigation regime and periodically ventilate the room with the plant, avoiding drafts.
- Leaves dry. The reason is lack of moisture. The plant needs to be watered more often.
- Brown spots on the leaf blades. They arise from direct sunlight falling on the plant. The flower is urgently shaded.
- Drying and darkening of the tips of the leaves. The air in the room is too dry. The plant is more often sprayed, a container with water or humidifiers is installed next to the pot.
- The leaves turned pale and lost their bright green color. Vriezia lacks light. The pot is moved to a more lighted room or phytolamps are installed.
In addition to diseases, the plant is often attacked by pests. such as: scale insects, mealybugs or spider mites. With a weak lesion, the leaves are wiped with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water. And in case of severe infection, insecticidal preparations are used.