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Adenium


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Adenium (Adenium) - slow-growing small trees or shrubs with thick trunks that have a thickening at the base, with numerous short branches, shiny or velvety leaves and large flowers from white to dark crimson. Representatives of this genus belong to the group of treelike stem succulents.

Adenium is an amazingly beautiful flower, popularly called the Impala Lily or the Rose of the Desert, and is also known to many as the Star of Sabinia. Until recently, many gardeners did not know about this unusual plant, but now it is one of the most popular and demanded grown flowers. In addition, it is very easy to care for it, which does not require certain skills and skill from the amateur gardener.

At the moment, almost 50 species of adenium are known, which can reach a height of several meters in its natural environment. At home, flower growers grow obese Adenium. Someone may mistake this beautiful plant for a bonsai made by human hands. But this is not at all the case, because adenium grows into such an unusual and original plant that only nature can create, and man cannot keep up with nature.

The flowers of this beautiful plant are compared to the flowers of lilies and roses, many see more similarities with lilies. But we must not forget that everyone evaluates in their own way, and everyone has their own vision of the qualities.

Home care for adenium

Location and lighting

Adenium belongs to light-loving plants, so it is better to keep it on the windows on the south side of the house. But in the summer heat, the plant must be shaded, because despite the fact that he loves direct sunlight, they can burn his vulnerable spot - the trunk.

Temperature

Since adenium is a representative of the hot desert, our climate with a temperature of 25-30 degrees in summer is quite suitable for its cultivation. During this period, adenium will be able to decorate any garden plot, and in winter a state of rest ensues. The ideal temperature for a plant during the dormant period is from 10 to 15 degrees, since with more cooling of the earth, it can die.

Watering

Water adenium regularly with settled water, not too low temperature, and only after the soil dries up. Do not over-water the plant. If adenium hibernates in a warm room, without falling into a state of dormancy, then water it when the soil is completely dry. Otherwise, there is no need to water the plant. Watering can be re-irrigated only when you exit the dormant state and at least on the tenth day after the first growth buds are found.

Air humidity

Adenium is unpretentious to air humidity conditions. But when it is actively growing, spraying its surface will not be superfluous. In this case, you should not touch the flowers in order to avoid the loss of their decorative qualities.

The soil

The soil for growing adenium should be breathable, loose, with an acidity close to neutral. Soil for adenium can be prepared with your own hands by mixing coarse sand with sheet and sod soil in equal parts and with an admixture of charcoal. Crushed brick can be added to the substrate and more sod land can be taken if a sufficiently mature plant is transplanted. But if there is no time to prepare the mixture yourself, then ready-made soil mixture for cacti will do.

Top dressing and fertilizers

For feeding, both mineral and fertilizers for cacti are suitable. The frequency of fertilization is once a month.

Transfer

Adult adeniums are transplanted when needed. It is enough to replant young plants once a year. The root system increases in width as it grows, not in length. Given this feature, you should choose a wide, but also shallow pot for the plant.In addition, it is advisable to take a pot that is not dark in color, so that the soil does not overheat once again in the scorching sun.

Pruning

Adenium is pruned in the spring when it begins to grow. Pruning is optional, but this procedure is necessary if there is a desire to turn the plant into something specific: in a tree (one trunk will turn out) or a bush (several trunks). In the first case, the adenium is cut off by no more than one third of the height; in the second, it must be cut even lower. And this applies to each of its branches. For young plants, one pinch is enough.

Reproduction of adenium

The breeding procedure for adeniums can seem daunting. But if you remember some of the nuances, then this task will be much easier.

Seed propagation

When propagating by seeds, only fresh seeds are taken, since they tend to quickly lose germination. The right time for sowing them is from late winter to early spring. First, it is better to hold the seeds in a solution of epin for 6 hours, and then sow them in a mixture of vermiculite and sand. And then in a week the adenium will give its first shoots.

Propagation by apical cuttings

Adenium can be propagated in spring and summer by apical cuttings; vermiculite or sand serve as a substrate. The stalk is cut into a length of 10-15 cm, then it must be treated with charcoal and dried. With normal humidity, the plant will take root in the first month, otherwise its cuttings will rot. It is necessary to maintain the temperature within 25-30 degrees and good lighting.

Propagation by air layers

Propagation by air layers is one of the easiest and most effective methods for both young and adult plants. It is best to do layering in late spring or early summer, when adeniums begin to grow actively after winter dormancy. Young plants can bloom next year.

On a shoot with a thickness of at least 2 cm in diameter, a circular shallow incision is made with a knife, dried, and then treated with a horse stimulator. The incision is wrapped in sphagnum moss and wrapped in an opaque film (you can wrap it with thread or wire). Sphagnum is periodically moisturized. Roots usually appear in 3-4 weeks. After the roots appear, the layers are separated and planted in the ground.

This breeding method also has its drawbacks. The flower will not have pronounced decorative qualities, because the trunk will not turn out to be as thickened as in obese adenium.

Growing difficulties

In autumn, the leaves of adenium turn yellow and fall off, which can alert novice florists. But you should not worry, since this is a normal phenomenon for him, because at this time the plant enters a state of dormancy. In other seasons, the reasons for this may be too low a temperature, as a result of which it freezes, or a change in the usual conditions of detention.

Diseases and pests

Adenium is most often affected by mealybugs and scabies. All kinds of rot arising from excessive watering are also dangerous.

Important! And finally, it must be added that adenium belongs to poisonous plants, so it should be kept away from children and not placed in children's rooms, and after contact with it, thoroughly wash your hands and tools that worked with this plant.

Adenium "Desert Rose" - care and features.


Adenium - home care

Adenium is a succulent that has recently appeared on the domestic flower market, but it has definitely taken a strong position among indoor plant lovers. The flower belongs to the Kutrov family.

Other names for adenium, which can often be found both in literature and in Internet sources: "desert rose" or "desert rose", "star of Sabinia", "impala lily" and others.

The trunk of the plant is thick. The leaves are shiny, velvety.

Leaves of amazing beauty are located on short stalks of the plant. Flowers are simple, whole-edged. They can be white, red, and pink. Collected in exquisite inflorescences, they are funnel-shaped. Adenium can bloom at any time from spring to early autumn. It all depends on the variety and type of plant.

Indoor adenium are small trees or shrubs, reaching a height of no more than 35 centimeters.

Most often, obese adenium, Arabic, Socotran, Somali are grown at home.


Description of the flower

Adenium received the greatest distribution in the natural environment. It grows mainly in arid areas, it is extremely common in Central and South Africa. The adenium flower is an ornamental plant and has a unique structure. The light gray trunk thickens at the bottom and looks very much like a bulb.

In the wild, these are fairly tall succulents, about 3.5 m. Their leaves can reach a length of 45 cm. At home, they are in no hurry to grow to huge sizes. The maximum height of a representative of the variety is no more than 0.5 m.In the first three years of house growth, adenium will not exceed 25 cm.

The second name of the succulent is the desert rose. This name is not accidental. It was invented because of the similarity of flowers to the buds of roses familiar to us. Flowers on the plant appear in the fourth year of life and since then they regularly delight the grower with beauty, subject to proper care. At the same time, flowering continues for a long time, from late spring all summer until autumn.

It should be remembered that plant sap is a dangerous substance. In the homeland of the adenium flower, militant tribes of Africans still use its juice to poison arrows. That is why, when growing in your own home, you need to isolate it from children and animals. In addition, the florist needs to be especially careful when caring for the adenium. All manipulations are recommended to be carried out with gloves.


For 6 years now I have been trying to tame different flowers that remind me all year round of holidays in Thailand, beautiful hotels, warmth and sun.

These flowers include orchids (the most problem-free and grateful are phalaenopsis), bougainvillea, adenium, anthurium, hibiscus.

I don't work well with hibiscus, apparently they don't like something in my home climate. With phalaenopsis, everything is fine - they bloom regularly, just like anthurium. I grew bougainvillea from a cuttings brought from Tunisia, and it bloomed very beautifully for a couple of years, and then ... then something changed, I suppose that the summer was gone, for three years now there is no heat (I live in the northwest) , and my buds stopped blooming and growing (

But today we are talking about adenium, about beauty and exoticism, judge for yourself:

Just walking along the streets of Taya, you can also see it, but in the open field no one restrains their growth and they grow into large, elongated, slightly balding trees. While vacationing in Phuket this year, I kept thinking how to get close to it and "saw off" a branch, but I did not understand what exactly needs to be broken off so that there is a result, all the branches are thick.

But I fired up, and when I returned, I searched the entire Internet about this and found out that adenium seeds are one of the few on Ali that give almost 100% result. Seeds cost from 15 rubles apiece, depending on the variety, I really do not really believe in the grade, but I decided for myself, no matter what color it was, it should still turn out beautifully.

And now the most important thing is HE CAN BLOWER IN A YEAR and a half.

You don't need to wait for the result for a long time, it grows literally before our eyes.

Here in this store I bought:

I paid 32.75 rubles for two seeds, to which the seller began to cry that for a too cheap parcel they had to pay some fines to the carrier. I ordered another 30 rubles, some nonsense, I haven't planted it yet, I think that “nonsense” won't be of any use. As a result, one Adeshka cost me 30 rubles, not so much.

By the way, I think that if I hadn't paid attention to these tears and did nothing, the seller would not have gone anywhere and sent it as it is, according to Ali's rules.

The seeds went for quite a long time, maybe 1.5 months. They look like oat seeds, only with blunt tips, such sticks 1 cm each. So dry that I was already scared that nothing would come of it.

I keep it under the bag as before, because the summer is cold, I open it on a sunny day.

Now I will briefly describe the rules for the care and formation of this exotic (my research on the Internet).

Well, firstly, if your side is not south, you shouldn't start it. He needs a lot of direct sun and it does not burn out.

Secondly, better to dry than pour... I water sooo rarely, and a little, just to soak the top layer of the earth.

The ground must be very loose, it is better to add coconut substrate.

Caudex formation (the so-called thickening of the stem) begins in the early months. The drier the conditions of detention, the slower the stem grows, respectively, it does not stretch, but grows plump and dense.

To form such intricacies of the "trunk" as in the photographs, it is necessary to slightly raise the roots above the ground during transplantation. Because in reality it is not the trunk, but the roots.

In general, everything is more complicated there. Caudex formation is a real "operation". In a nutshell, when the plant reaches about 7 cm, it is removed from the ground, shaken off the ground, and pinching the main root and crown, the cuts are covered with coal. Then a small plastic circle is put into the pot, the roots are straightened on top and covered with earth. And then with each transplant, which take about four months, as it grows, the line of the earth drops by 1-2 cm, so that the roots are "pulled" out of the earth.

Well, that's basically all science.

As far as I understand, it is better than him especially do not fertilize, or half a serving.

It can bloom all year round if there is enough sun and warmth. In winter, especially if it is cold, watering is minimized, say every 2 weeks.

In general, it is difficult to give such advice, you need to feel the flower, everyone has different conditions, therefore, everyone should have different watering.

To everyone who wants to grow such beauty in themselves, I wish you success!

And I will supplement my review with photos and tips as they become available))

I have not yet waited for flowering, and even lost one sprout. He froze to me, in September I inadvertently left him under an open window, and although the sun did not fry mercilessly, the wind turned out to be cold '(


Transfer

Transplanted in cloudy weather and not watered for several days. If you had to transplant adenium in hot weather, then after work the plant needs to be watered.

1. The plant is taken out of the pot, the roots are examined, the decayed, damaged roots are removed.

2. Put some potting soil on the bottom of the new pot and carefully place the adenium. Holding the plant with your hand, sprinkle the soil with a spatula, tapping on the pot so that the soil settles denser and occupies all the voids between the roots.

3. After transplantation, adenium is placed in a shaded place for several days.

To form a decorative caudex, the adenium is slightly raised with each transplant. It is impossible to sharply raise the caudex above the ground level, the plant may stop growing for a long time or die.


Adenium - care.

Outwardly, adenium does not look like a rose, of course, but its second name is fully justified - it is one of the most beautiful flowers of the desert. Natural habitat Oman, Yemen, Saudi Arabia, and Central and South Africa. However, the "desert rose" is very successfully cultivated in the humid tropics - Thailand, India, Malaysia, the Philippines. It is there that enterprising producers experiment, cross, breed new varieties and distribute adeniums to other countries and even to other continents.

Adenium is a slow-growing bush or small tree with a fleshy trunk that has a thickening at the base, the so-called caudex. Under natural conditions, adeniums grow up to 1.5-2 meters in height.Of course, they cannot reach such a height on our windowsills - only 50-60 centimeters, if you believe the books.

The color and shape of the leaves varies depending on the species or variety of plants. By the way, the question of the systematization of adeniums remains open, since it is not clear whether to consider the genus monotypic or to distinguish regional forms into independent species. In the literature, you may come across the following names: Adenium obesum, Adenium swazicum, Adenium arabicum, Adenium oleifolium, Adenium somalense, Adenium socotranum and Adenium multiflorum. They differ in their habitat and in the peculiarities of care in culture, as well as in the timing of the beginning of flowering.

The most common view on our windowsills is Adenium obesum Adenium obesum... He is the earliest flowering and unpretentious. The leaves are most often green (oblong, rounded or slightly pointed at the ends), but there are also variegated, yellow, white and even red. Moreover, they can be shiny and glossy, or they can be dull or slightly pubescent. And the color of flowers through the efforts of breeders simply amazes the imagination - from pure white to dark red and even burgundy with blue, while different varieties may have all kinds of edges, strokes, stripes, etc. on the petals. Consider, however, the following: the more extraordinary the “coloring” of the leaf, the more capricious the plant itself. Adeniums with variegated and colored leaves require maximum sun, grow slower, and often bloom reluctantly. There are, however, pleasant exceptions to the rules - for example, the variegated adenium Daang Nab Anant, which has already been tested on Russian window sills. It grows without problems and blooms willingly. Thai producers themselves praise him.

The size of flowers in Adenium obesum is on average 6-7 cm in diameter, but sometimes it is smaller and larger. Flowering usually begins at the age of 1.5-2 years, and its duration ranges from 2-3 months to a year. Of course, a lot depends not only on the variety, but also on the conditions of detention.

It should not be forgotten that adenium belongs to kutrovye, which means that all parts of the plant are poisonous. Some articles warn that “the juice is especially poisonous, which, penetrating through the skin, can cause intoxication. Signs of poisoning appear after 12-36 hours: malaise, dizziness, nausea, vomiting. To avoid poisoning, carry out all work with gloves, and do not smoke, do not take food, etc. ”. After such serious warnings on the forums, questions are often encountered: "I want to buy adenium, but how poisonous is it?" Poisonous, no doubt. But the same euphorbia (euphorbia), for example, is more poisonous. By the way, in Africa, some species of animals safely feed on leaves and even branches of adeniums (I do not advise you to try it - it’s bitter, so that "a piece will not go down your throat"). But seriously, I myself do not use gloves when working with adeniums - I am so uncomfortable. Eating them, too, somehow does not occur. I just wash my hands thoroughly after work. If you have a wound on your hand or just with gloves it is calmer, then no one bothers you to use them.

What to plant adenium in

Adeniums need ample root space. If the plant is young, it is advisable to transplant more often, sometimes even twice a year - until the plants reach the desired size.

The material of the pot does not matter, the shape is much more important. It is better to use shallow wide round pots for planting, with a lot of drainage holes. For small plants, the pot can be taken deeper - the root system of adeniums develops quickly. But the color of the container matters. Since your adenium will constantly be in the sun, do not choose dark pots - they get very hot, which is not at all good for the roots.

A planned transplant is carried out at the beginning of the growing season, so that by the fall the substrate is completely mastered by the roots. We do not need an extra risk of decay from waterlogging. For the same reasons, if you bought a plant in the fall, choose a new pot, the same or just a little larger.

If the roots of your adenium were damaged during transplantation, it should not be watered for at least a week. If the weather is rainy, humid and cloudy, you can also not water after planting (or just a little). But if the plants are quite healthy, the weather is sunny, hot, they begin to water immediately, otherwise your pet will be offended and decide that he has come to a rest period.

Primer for adenium

What kind of earthen mixture should you plant? When this question arose before me, I read a lot of recommendations, often advising the exact opposite. For example, someone admits to use peat as a basis, while someone categorically does not recommend peat. The same applies to the use of sand in the mixture, even coarse (there is no talk about fine sand), although sand for succulents is a native element. We will not talk about such exotic ingredients as pieces of coconut peel, rice husks, lava stones, tree fern fibers, etc., added by producers of Southeast Asia. Therefore, first about the general requirements for the soil for adeniums.

  1. It should be nutritious, loose and permeable.
  2. Acidity - from slightly acidic to neutral.
  3. The addition of crushed charcoal (or small pieces of it) and some kind of fungicidal agent is very welcome (the easiest way to find "Trichodermin" is in our stores).

Now, in more detail, point by point. Ideally, to please the opponents of peat and sand, the earthen mixture for adenium should look like this: coconut fiber - 50% deciduous-humus soil - 20-30% perlite 10-20% fine, up to 3 mm expanded clay 10-20% charcoal ...

However, it is far from always possible to find coconut fiber, perlite is also sometimes not at hand, there is no time to get out beyond the leafy ground under linden, birch or hazel. How to be? Buy a package of soil for succulents in the store and add to it what you need that is at hand.

Buying ready-made soil in the store, we, of course, automatically get both peat and sand in the land mixture (adeniums, apparently, do not know that they do not like peat and sand, so they grow well and even bloom). But we are simply obliged to improve the purchased mixture as much as possible. I consider charcoal and inert leavening agents - perlite and vermiculite - to be obligatory additives. Be careful with vermiculite, do not overdo it, because it is very moisture-absorbing (perlite is preferable in this case). Instead of small expanded clay, you can add broken brick (you have to work hard, the fractions should be small). By the way, the older the adenium, the more it is advised to add expanded clay (or brick) to the ground mixture - up to 70%.

What, you don't even have a brick? Then the simplest, cheapest and most effective baking powder is fine expanded polystyrene crumbs. Break off two pieces from some packaging container, rub them against each other and get a wonderful and completely free baking powder (it is better to choose with small fractions - it rubs better and is less electrified).

Lighting and watering

Adeniums need the maximum possible lighting in our conditions. The more sun, the better. Of course, if the plant came to you in a parcel or was in a store in a dark corner, you should not immediately put it in the sun - teach it to be good gradually. But always remember that in the conditions of central Russia there is not a lot of sun for adeniums. Even if the leaves are burned out of habit after a cloudy winter, the plant will grow new foliage. But only in the bright sun does the plant gain strength for flowering.

Some experts advise not to change the position of the adeniums during the growth period so that areas of the stem that were previously in the shade do not get burned. It is also recommended for young specimens (less than 7-8 cm in thickness) in spring and autumn, when the sun is low, to protect the base of the stem, which is sensitive to burns. I in no way refute these advice, but I myself have never used them: I twist the plants around my axis and do not shade the stem of the seedlings. Perhaps, if you live on a high floor, and the sun persistently beats out your window from early morning until late at night, these tips will be relevant for you. Observe and draw your own conclusions.

The question "how often to water" depends, of course, on the conditions of maintenance and the time of year. In general, it is recommended to water the adeniums by completely soaking the earthen lump, and then letting the substrate dry properly. But in the summer, during the active growing season, you can water more often - complete drying out of the earthen coma during this period is not necessary or even undesirable, since the plant may stop growing. Of course, if the soil is constantly wet, adeniums can rot even in the warm season, so be careful not to overdo it.

Top dressing

Adenium fertilizers are very positive. You can add slowly dissolving, "long-playing" fertilizers to the substrate or regularly feed with a solution of organo-mineral fertilizer with an equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Top dressing is carried out during the growing season and flowering once or twice a month. If you want your pet to build up its vegetative mass, occasionally at the beginning of the season, you can regale him with a "cocktail" with a high nitrogen content. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers promote flowering and strengthen the plant.
In spring and autumn, it is advisable to apply micronutrient fertilizers.

Wintering adeniums

This is the most difficult time for our ward. Theoretically, a dormant period occurs, when the leaves completely or partially fall off, and watering should be greatly reduced. Why theoretically? Because the conditions of detention on our windowsills are far from natural. In addition, someone believes that for normal growth and abundant flowering of adeniums, it is imperative to observe a dormant period, someone says that this is desirable, and someone - that it is not at all necessary. Let's figure it out.

The dormant period in some species of adenium can be complete (A. boehmianum and A. multiflorum) or partial, when the growth of shoots (A. somalense) only stops, but the leaves remain. Some species bloom for the first time during dormancy (A. somalense, A. multiflorum), and if there is not enough light (and we do not have enough in autumn and winter), then flowering will not work.

In nature, the dormant period in obese adenium (A. obesum) lasts for several months. If you can keep it dry and cool, then it will. But on our windowsills it is often warm (with the exception of extreme winter days), therefore, in culture, the dormant period will be very short, and the leaves may fall off only partially or not at all. And if you also provide backlighting, then the plant can even bloom, although the usual flowering time of adeniums in our latitudes is summer and early autumn.

This is how the “change of seasons” looks like in practice for adeniums on window sills. In spring and summer, the temperature of the content ranges from 22 to 35 ° C (most of all, adeniums like about 30 ° C). With a decrease in daylight hours and a decrease in temperature to 16-20 ° C, growth slows down. In this case, part of the foliage may turn yellow and fall off (adenium itself suggests that it wants to rest). At this time, watering should be significantly reduced and top dressing should be stopped. At temperatures below 15 ° C, adenium begins a dormant period. In winter, it is recommended to keep it at a temperature of 10-15 ° C. Please note that the temperature must not drop below 10 ° C. Adult adeniums can withstand a temperature drop of up to + 4 ° C with an absolutely dry earthen coma, but it is better not to risk it. If the apartment is warm in winter, do not stop watering. Of course, you need to water less than in summer, but how much less - only you can determine, focusing on the temperature on your windowsill. Consider the age of your adenium - an adult plant at 10-15 ° C will withstand a long time without watering at all, but a seedling is unlikely.

And another important point. The first watering after a long dry maintenance can be very dangerous - the plant is completely asleep, all processes have slowed down, and here we are with our "care". Even a small amount of water can be fatal for unawakened adenium. In this way, I destroyed two strong seedlings: I did not water it for a long time, because it was very cold, and then I “regretted it”. The result was disastrous. The conclusion on the winter content was made as follows:

  1. seedlings in winter should be watered moderately, but regularly
  2. large plants should also be watered (even adenium that has thrown off all the leaves can be watered about once a month)
  3. if the conditions of detention were 10-15 ° C and without watering at all, then it is important to determine the end of the dormant period. To do this, in the spring, you need to transfer the plant to a bright place and carefully monitor the awakening of the buds. Start watering in 2-3 weeks, when the plant wakes up, and increase it gradually when active growth begins.

Attention: sometimes the leaves of adeniums turn yellow and fall off after flowering, mistakes in care or a sharp change in weather. If the plant continues to give new leaves at the same time, then do not confuse this with the onset of a dormant period and continue to water.

Pests and diseases

It is very interesting to read in some sources that “adeniums have practically no pests, maybe only a random scabbard will hit the leaves. "Is the scabbard not a pest?" And somehow I missed the tick on the adeniums obtained from Thailand (they were practically without leaves, well, where should the tick be placed there, especially since the adeniums "practically have no pests?"). I took it out for almost six months!

So keep in mind: despite the toxicity, adeniums are damaged by insects (mealybugs, mites, etc.). Control measures are generally accepted. My adeniums were quite loyal to such common drugs as Fitoverm and Actellic. If you have to deal with pests with some new tool, it is better to try it first on one, the least valuable specimen.

But the main enemy of the adeniums is. We do not allow flooding and stagnation of water! Correctly formulate an earthen mixture with an obligatory drainage layer in a pot! When the temperature drops below 20 ° C and insufficient lighting, we significantly reduce watering!

Reproduction

Adeniums reproduce in almost every way in plants, and each method has its pros and cons.

Adenium from seeds

If it is useless to look for adenium in your shops, the easiest way is to order seeds online. Pros: it is during seed reproduction that the plant most quickly forms a "butt", that is, caudex. Cons: varietal characteristics may not be preserved, that is, there is no guarantee that you will receive exactly the color and size that you saw in the photo.

Sowing, of course, is better in spring or early summer, so that the seedlings have time to grow up before winter, although practice has shown that in January the seeds germinate quite successfully. Please note that the seeds of adeniums lose their germination rather quickly, so it is better not to pull with sowing. As a last resort, in the fall-winter, you can arrange additional lighting for your seedlings.

The substrate must be breathable and only slightly damp, never wet! It can be made from sand, perlite and crushed charcoal. You can also germinate in vermiculite, but then you need to be even more careful with moisture. The mixture must be neutral (the acidic substrate prevents germination, so peat is not used).

Before sowing, it is recommended to soak the seeds for two hours (no more!) In a warm, humid environment. Someone advises treating the seeds with a fungicide, someone says that adeniums do not like this. I soaked the seeds in a solution (more correctly, "suspension") of crushed coal - I took ordinary settled water, added coal to it with a generous hand, stirred it, threw seeds into it - and in a warm place.

Then we slightly deepen the seeds into the prepared substrate (put them horizontally so that the top and bottom are not confused), cover and place in a warm, bright place. Do not forget to regularly air our greenhouse!

Seeds should be germinated at a temperature not lower than 24 ° (and preferably 28-35 ° C). If you like the seeds, they will germinate in 3-15 days. But with a cool content below 22-24 ° C and (or) too wet a substrate, alas, they can rot.

At first, the seedlings are protected from direct sunlight, drafts and a drop in temperature below 18 ° C. When real leaves are formed (1st pair), we gradually begin to accustom them to the sun, and with the appearance of the second pair we plant them in separate containers. Pots with a diameter of 5-6 cm are suitable for two to three month old adeniums.

Propagation by air layers, cuttings

This is one of the most effective methods (can be applied to shoots at least 2 cm in diameter). It is better to make layers during the active growing season. The technique is usual for such events - make a circular incision with a clean sharp knife, dry the wound, treat it with a rooting stimulator, cover the incision with wet sphagnum and wrap it with opaque cellophane or other suitable material (secure with wire or elastic tape). Moss the moss regularly. A month later, roots are formed on the shoot - now you can finally separate the layers and plant it.

But the cuttings of adeniums are not always successful, since the cuttings rot easily. The stalk is desirable at least 10 cm, the cut must be well dried and processed with crushed charcoal. Rooting substrate - any permeable.

The disadvantages of layering and cuttings include the fact that caudex is either absent altogether, or is formed much later than in plants obtained from seeds.

Vaccination of adeniums

You can graft adeniums on oleander and on adenium itself. The second option has acquired distribution - it is very convenient if you want to get a plant with a large caudex and specific varietal flowers or leaves. You can buy adenium with three or even five different vaccinations - a whole white-pink-red bouquet on one "priest".

The grafting technique is standard, as is the care of the grafted plant (it should be protected from direct sunlight until the active growth of the scion begins and the shoots appearing from the rootstock should be removed in time).

Crown and caudex formation

Adeniums sometimes start branching at a young age, but more often this happens after flowering or when the caudex is large enough. However, adenium growers do not expect "nature's favor" and pinch their seedlings to get a well-branched plant. This should be done before the start of intensive growth, that is, at the end of winter or early spring. And do not overdo it - if you cut the main trunk too low, many thin twigs ("broom") will climb, which is considered ugly for adenium. In mature plants, branches can also be pruned or removed.

Caudex forms itself with age. If a simple bottle-shaped shape is not to your liking, you can try to form a caudex with an unusual shape. With each transplant, raise the plant a few centimeters above the soil level, exposing some of the roots - they intertwine very intricately under the ground. You can lay your seedling on its side, fixing it in this position - the branches will still stretch upward, and the caudex will gradually get used to it, and you will get an unusual "felled tree". You can generally learn the bonsai technique and apply some of its techniques to form an interesting trunk.


Adenium - gardening

Kutrov family. Homeland is central and South Africa. Representatives of this genus belong to the group of treelike stem succulents. In nature, they reach gigantic proportions - up to 10 meters in height. In culture, they are quite demanding and whimsical, they grow on average about 30-35 cm. Adenium is popularly called the Rose of the Desert, for flowers similar to those of roses. Adenium juice is poisonous in all parts of the plant.

In culture, the view of Adenium thick Adenium obesum has become widespread. It has a thickened stem - caudex. Lateral, thinner stems extend from it. Caudex is able to store enough water to survive fairly long droughts. Leaves are linear, fleshy, covered with a waxy bloom. Flowers usually appear in late spring, before the leaves appear, when the plant is just emerging from the dormant period. The flowers are pink or red, up to 7 cm in diameter.

Temperature: Adenium is thermophilic, about 25-27 ° С in summer, not lower than 10 ° С in winter. Does not tolerate hypothermia of the root system. For the summer, it is better to put it outdoors in a garden or on a balcony.

Lighting: Adenium needs a very bright sunny place. Grows well on the south window. However, you should gradually get used to the bright sun in spring.

Watering: Do not watered after the leaves have fallen before the formation of new shoots. Water sparingly in spring and summer so that the soil dries out between waterings. For example, in the summer on hot days, water is watered about once a week. Adenium is very sensitive to excessive watering, and root rot can easily begin from this.

Fertilizer: With the formation of flowers and new leaves, adenium is fed with a special fertilizer for cacti, adding it to the water for irrigation. Top dressing no more than once a month.

Air humidity: Adenium likes regular spraying from a fine spray bottle so that the water does not run down the branches in streams. During flowering, it is impossible for the water to fall on the flowers.

Transfer: In the spring every year. The soil should be loose and slightly acidic. Any fertile clay soil with the addition of river sand will do. You can use a commercial cactus potting mix - "Cactus +", again with the addition of 1 part sand. Drainage is required. Young plants are transplanted annually, adults over 3 years old are transplanted in a year, but the top layer of the earth is replaced annually. After transplanting, they are watered no earlier than a week later.

Reproduction: Seeds, cuttings, layering. Adenium seeds lose their germination during storage, so it is advisable to use only fresh seeds. Seeds germinate when heated with soil.

Scorzonera
In Chinese and Tibetan medicine, scorzonera is still considered an analogue of ginseng, and many valuable medicines are prepared on its basis. The plant contains a lot of protein, biologically active substances, inulin polysaccharide, vitamins and minerals. Therefore, it is used to normalize metabolic processes and lower blood sugar levels in diabetes, to strengthen the immune system and recuperate after diseases and surgeries. And Tibetan monks prepare anticancer drugs on the basis of scorzonera. So the interest in this plant is undoubtedly.

The healing properties of Echinacea purpurea
The healing properties of Echinacea purpurea - this tall, perennial herb with beautiful purple flowers, has been known to folk healers since ancient times. The Indians were treated with echinacea for snakebites, fever and other diseases. Europeans used the plant as a remedy for colds, but Echinacea purpurea became the most popular in the 20th century, after antiviral, antibacterial, immunostimulating, anti-allergic and anti-influenza properties were found in it. According to the results of p.

The use of eleutherococcus spiny in medicine
Eleutherococcus prickly is often called a devil bush, wild pepper, prickly berry, prickly berry. The Americans have this unusually cute, exotic, strongly thorny bush with a dozen stems covered with shiny light green five-fingered leaves, better known as Siberian ginseng. The fact is that the preparations of Eleutherococcus truly act no worse than the popular root of life, and in some parameters even surpass it. For example, Eleutherococcus shows excellent results in the treatment of cancer patients. The use of his drugs p.

The healing properties of the snake mountaineer
The name of the mountaineer serpentine or serpentine received because of its short, thick, serpentine curved and somewhat flattened rhizome. Popularly, the mountaineer is often called crayfish necks, since his rhizome with transverse folds vaguely resembles the tail of the crayfish (neck). Highlander grows as a rule in thickets in damp floodplain meadows, along rivers, along the shores of lakes, in sparse damp spruce forests. This tall, slender, winter-hardy plant with erect stems up to one and a half meters in height blooms in May-July with pale pink flowers, collected.

Selection of garden furniture
Here we are faced with a choice. What's better? Wooden chairs, benches, swings, or maybe lightweight and comfortable plastic? Whether it's wicker furniture or cool but elegant metal to create a cozy atmosphere, the first thing to think about when choosing garden furniture is its purpose. Design isn't everything. You need to think about how this furniture will be used, how many people will be able to rest on it, how it will look exactly on your site. It is also important whether the furniture will stand in the garden only in the summer, or will decorate it all year round. Those who appreciate peace and coziness might.

Gorchak (Zubrovka)
Men respect gorchak for the Zubrovka tincture. Grandmothers, not hungry for alcohol, choose more prosaic use of this plant: to improve digestion in chronic diseases of the gastrointestinal tract and as an anti-inflammatory agent in tuberculosis. Take a tablespoon of herbs in a glass of boiling water and insist for about ten minutes, then filter and drink half a glass before meals three times a day. You can also insist on vodka or alcohol. Take 2 tablespoons of bitterness, add 100 g of vodka and put in a dark place for a couple of weeks, every day.

Chrysanthemum
Golden flower, as the name of this solar flower is translated from Greek. They say that the first chrysanthemums were golden yellow in color, maybe that's why they gave it that name. Or maybe because it is made from the land of the rising sun - Japan, where chrysanthemum is included in heraldry. In general, in the East, where this flower comes from, they attach great importance to it, both in China and in Japan. Chrysanthemum is a special, hardy flower that grows in the temperate and northern regions of the world. It blooms mainly in autumn.

Motoblocks and cultivators
In addition to other gardening troubles, gardeners often have to tinker with the ground (dig up, loosen, huddle, etc.) or transport a variety of goods (for example, fertilizers, building materials, containers with water). A large farm uses its own technique for each type of work, "specializing" in something specific. For a private owner with his six hundred square meters, this approach is too wasteful, he needs one universal and inexpensive car - a jack of all trades. These requirements are met by walk-behind tractors or cultivators. Plowing is traditional.

Calendula officinalis
Back in the XII century, healers advised looking at blooming calendula to improve vision and lift the spirit. And in the 17th century, with its help, they strengthened the heart, treated smallpox and measles. It has not lost its significance today. In folk medicine, flower baskets of calendula are mainly used, which are collected in the flowering phase, that is, from early summer to late autumn. To preserve their color, they are dried in the shade in a well-ventilated room, laid out in one layer on paper or cloth. Preparations prepared from the inflorescences of marigolds are used for rinsing.

Plant protection from soil pests
Vegetables have enemies of their own in the soil. The most important of them are the bear and wireworm: in the spring they eat seeds, in the summer they damage the roots and root collars of plants, as well as root crops, potato tubers and bulbs. Onions and garlic suffer greatly from onion flies, sprouts of cabbage, radishes, radish roots - from cabbage. A typical example of the action of pests is the gradual withering of leaves on young apple trees, accompanied by the subsequent drying of the trees themselves. The cause of their death is often the beetle larvae, which are capable of burning.

Germinating tomato seeds
For better development of young seedlings and obtaining a high yield, especially early, pre-sowing treatment of tomato seeds with solutions of mineral fertilizers, including those containing trace elements: 1 teaspoon of nitrophoska or nitroammophoska and 1 tablespoon of ash per 1 liter of water. The seeds are kept in the solution for 12 hours. For growing seedlings, it is better to prepare fresh soil: take one part of the garden soil (just not from under potatoes and tomatoes) and perfectly decomposed humus. To make this mixture friable, improve air circulation.

Celery
Celery is root, leaf, and petiolate. Root celery, from which a wonderful salad is made, grows to a weight of 400-800 g. These root vegetables are used for forcing greens in winter conditions on a windowsill. Leaf celery does not have a developed root crop; it is cultivated to obtain fortified leaves during the summer-autumn period. It is dried for the winter and added to food for aroma and taste. Petiolate celery is grown to obtain fleshy stalks, their thickness can be up to 3-5 cm. This is a type of root celery.


Watch the video: Adenium from seeds with one year update


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