Strawberries: diseases and pests, how to fight, why it dries, turns yellow and does not bloom, photo
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Fruit and berry plants
Both children and adults love to feast on strawberries, therefore the demand for this berry on the market is invariably high every year. But sometimes amateur gardeners complain that the harvests of the berries are not as good as before, that some kind of ailment has attacked the strawberries, from which there is no escape. Sometimes insects are the cause of poor or spoiled crops, and their subversive activities are not immediately apparent. Diseases and pests of berries and how to protect strawberries from them will be discussed in this article.
Homemade strawberry is a herbaceous perennial garden plant that is as popular in our gardens as raspberries, currants and gooseberries. A close relative of strawberries is strawberries. Strawberries, thanks to their unsurpassed taste, are cultivated in Europe, North and South America. The stem of the strawberry is erect, from 15 to 40 cm high, large tripartite basal leaves of strawberries, collected in a rosette, consist of ovate-rhombic leaves with wide toothed edges on short petioles. Both the stem and the leaves of the strawberry are covered with glandular hairs. Large strawberry flowers with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm in an amount of 5 to 12 pieces make up the corymbose inflorescence.
What is commonly called a strawberry berry - a juicy red conical fruit - is actually an overgrown receptacle on which there are real strawberries - small nuts. Garden strawberries have three times more chromosomes than wild or green strawberries, so they are not cross-pollinated with any other species. Strawberries are poorly transported and do not keep fresh for long.
Strawberries are more likely than berries introduced into the culture not so long ago, for example, blueberries and blackberries, to be infected by fungal diseases and pest attacks, but proper planting and care of strawberries ensures that these risks are minimized.
Strawberry diseases and their treatment
If strawberry bushes quickly lose their turgor and wither, the reason may be insufficient or rare watering. Most often this is noticeable during the period of growing greenery with strawberries and at the end of fruiting. Water your strawberries in the morning or evening and do not spare the water. But if the strawberry does not lack moisture and nevertheless withers, this may be the result of damage to the root system - bears or moles, making moves in the ground, undermine and gnaw the roots of strawberries, and sometimes even push the bushes out of the ground. This is what causes the strawberry to wilt.
We wrote about the fight against moles in an article on apple tree diseases. In the fight against the bear, insecticides are used, laying them in the hole when planting strawberries. If you haven't guessed to do this, dig trapping holes up to 50 cm deep on the site and fill them with not completely rotted horse manure, and sprinkle them with earth on top - bears accumulate in this hole during the season, intending to overwinter in it. In late autumn, manure is used to fertilize the site, and the bear is destroyed.
Strawberries also wilt if they become sick with fusarium, phytosporous or verticillary wilt. The same symptoms attract attention when the roots of strawberries are affected by rot.
Why strawberries dry
Sometimes drying is the next stage after wilting, the reasons for which we described in the previous section, but more often strawberries dry up as a result of infection by fungal diseases: spotting, late blight or gray rot, verticillary wilting, powdery mildew. Examine the area with strawberries carefully: if only a few bushes are affected, remove and burn them, but if the damage is more extensive, treat all plants in the area with fungicides.
There are times when the greens of the strawberries look juicy and healthy, and the berries suddenly begin to dry out. This happens when the bushes at an early stage of fruit formation are affected by gray rot - which is why strawberries dry berries rather than rot. Make it a rule to carry out spring and autumn processing of strawberries from diseases and pests, and you will not have to wonder why strawberries dry up and how to save strawberries from diseases.
The strawberries are rotting
Why do strawberries rot? There are various reasons for this. Rotting strawberries affected by rots - root, black or gray, caused by fungi and provoked by too high humidity. For information on how to deal with these diseases, see the appropriate section. Sometimes strawberry bushes suffer from tightness and poor ventilation, and with high humidity, this leads to berry rotting. Remove rotted fruits, and as a preventive measure, as soon as ovaries appear on the strawberries, mulch the strawberries around the area with sawdust so that the ripening fruits do not come into contact with the soil and do not spoil.
Strawberries turn yellow
There is no definite answer to the question of why strawberries turn yellow, since there are always several reasons. Sometimes strawberry leaves turn yellow due to a lack of nitrogen and magnesium in the soil. If there is a lack of magnesium, add magnesium sulfate in a dry form to the soil, followed by watering the site or in the form of a solution for several weeks in a row, since magnesium in this fertilizer is only 10%. Dolomite flour is also a source of magnesium. If there is a lack of nitrogen, apply nitrogen-containing mineral or organic fertilizers to the soil, and in the future, feed strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers every spring, and start doing this even before the strawberries grow.
Strawberry leaves turn yellow up to a lemon shade in the case of strawberry disease with non-infectious chlorosis, when the roots sitting in unheated ground are not able to supply the leaves with as much nutrients as is required for the growing season. This reason is eliminated by foliar feeding of strawberries with iron-containing preparations and watering the site with warm water.
Another cause of yellow leaves is the viral disease xanthosis (mosaic, jaundice), which spreads through infected planting material or aphids. There is no cure for it, therefore, preventive measures are of particular importance in this case - spring and autumn preventive treatments of the site with a 1.5 percent solution of nitrafen or two to three percent Bordeaux liquid.
Strawberry leaves turn red
If strawberry leaves turn red completely closer to autumn, then this is an absolutely natural process, but if redness appears in the form of spots, then this is a sign of a fungal disease, septoria, or white spot. Sometimes the reaction of strawberries to too acidic soil manifests itself in this way - add dolomite flour to the soil, and the problem will disappear.
Why does not it bloom
And there are several answers to the question “why does not strawberry bloom”. If the intense heat has been on for more than two weeks, the flowering of the strawberries is noticeably reduced. Strawberries may not bloom if you transplanted them at the wrong time - it takes time and energy to root the bush, and there is no time for flowering. An overdose of strawberries with nitrogen fertilizers leads to the fact that they intensively overgrow with green mass, but alas, to bloom! - does not want to.
There is one more reason: strawberry varieties with similar properties to weeds appeared. The bushes of these weeds look strong and healthy, but they do not bloom, in addition, when they propagate vegetatively, they drown out and displace fruiting bushes. If you notice that a bush does not bloom for too long, remove it mercilessly.
Stains on strawberry leaves
When reddish-brown spots form on the leaves, and then the strawberry leaves brighten and only the border around the spot remains red, you are dealing with septoria, which we will write about in more detail in another chapter. Brownish-brown spots without a clear outline, in the early stage of the disease similar to scorch marks - this is a brown spot. Read about how to deal with leaf spots in the next section.
All strawberry diseases can be divided into three groups:
- leaf spots;
- fruit rot;
In this chapter, we will introduce you to the first risk group. White spot, or septoria, appears as dark red spots that turn white over time in the center. Sometimes white spot of strawberries and strawberries is called another disease - ramulariosis, the symptoms of which also look like white spots with a purple border, which eventually merge with each other, and the whitish parts of the leaf crumble, and holes appear in their place. And, finally, brown spotting - the edges of leaves affected by this disease seem to be scorched, then "burns" spread throughout the leaf and leathery pads of a dark color - mycelium - are formed on the upper side of the plate.
All these spots are of fungal origin, so the methods of dealing with them are identical. As a preventive measure, spring treatment of the site with phytosporin or another fungicide is used. As a treatment, strawberries are treated with copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux mixture during the period of leaf regrowth, before flowering and after picking berries. A prerequisite is processing not only the upper side of the leaves, but also the lower one. Don't let the strawberries grow too much - in dense plantings, the fungus spreads faster. Timely remove weeds and strawberry weeds from the site.
This fungal disease can destroy up to 80% of the crop in one season. First, fast-growing dense light brown spots are formed on the berry, covered with a fluffy bloom, then the affected fruit and strawberry stalk dry, and the leaves are covered with dark gray or brown spots without clear outlines.
Strawberries also suffer from black rot, which is very similar in symptoms to gray rot, but the strawberry leaves turn black rather than gray soon after the spots appear.
The fight against gray rot, as well as against black, begins with the spring preventive treatment of strawberries with a two to four percent solution of Bordeaux liquid. All parts of the plant affected by rot must be removed. If the plant is severely affected, remove it entirely. Do not use plant residues from these plants for making fertilizers, but burn them so as not to spread the fungus throughout the garden. Observe the crop rotation, do not let the strawberry plantings overgrow, regularly weed out, mulch the soil on the plot with sawdust or straw before fruiting so that the ripe berries do not touch the ground. In the fall, carry out another preventive treatment of the area with strawberries with Bordeaux liquid.
Fusarium is manifested by necrosis at the edges of the leaves, gradually capturing the entire leaf plate and petioles, as a result of which the rosette falls apart, the leaves droop, and the bush dies in one and a half to two months.
Phytosporous wilting, or reddening of the axial cylinder, is chronic or transient, but one way or another the bush lags behind in development, the leaves acquire a dirty gray tint and curl up in the form of a bowl. The fibrous roots of the strawberry die off. The death of the bush occurs within 2-3 years.
The difference between verticillary wilt and fusarium or phytosporous wilt is that first the old leaves wither, and only then the younger ones and the whole bush. Verticilliasis affects the root system, as can be seen from the petioles of the leaves - their base acquires a reddish-brown tint. Plants that have received nitrogen fertilizers in excess are most easily affected by verticillary wilting.
In order to avoid these troubles, it is necessary to comply with agrotechnical requirements, in particular, observe crop rotation and not grow strawberries in areas where crops that were unstable to wilting had previously grown. Before planting, treat the strawberry roots with a solution of such biological products as agate 23k at a concentration of 7 g of the drug per 1 liter of water, and if signs of disease are found, treat the strawberries through a drip irrigation system with drugs such as quadris, metaxil, ridomil. Do not neglect the preventive treatment of strawberries at the beginning of the growing season and when preparing the site for winter.
Strawberry pests and control
Protecting strawberries from birds
Not only strawberry diseases pose a threat to the harvest, but also other factors - unexpected weather changes, rodents, snails and slugs, insect pests of strawberries, as well as birds that fly into strawberry beds and peck up the largest juicy berries. There are many ways to keep birds away from strawberry beds. We offer you two tried and tested solutions to this problem:
- a net from birds on strawberries: you need to drive in around the perimeter of the site and in some places in the aisles about a meter high pegs and throw a fine net on them;
- New Year's tinsel: drive in meter-high pegs along the edges of the site, pull twine between them along the perimeter of the site and often hang New Year's "rain" on it - the lightest breeze makes the Christmas tree rain sway and sparkle, and this scares birds away.
Slugs on strawberries
Naked slugs are a serious problem that can be difficult to deal with. If left to chance, they can completely destroy an area with strawberries in one season. But the appearance of slugs can be prevented: make a groove around the site and fill it with lime, tobacco, ash or ground pepper - for slugs crawling from the outside, this is an insurmountable obstacle. If you overlooked the appearance of gastropods, try to defeat them by applying dry fertilizers - superphosphate or potassium salt, scattering them at dusk over the area (slugs lead a nightlife). The drugs irritate the surface of the mollusks, and they begin to produce a large amount of mucus in order to dump the irritating substance with it, therefore, after 30-40 minutes, fertilizer should be scattered over the area again.
Such drugs as Thunderstorm or Meta radically eliminate slugs, but the slug dies only if the drug gets directly on it. You can mulch the beds with a transparent film, under which the slugs die, unable to withstand the "steam room".
Weevil on strawberries
Sometimes you can see pedicels without buds on strawberry bushes, and the trace on them is as if someone cut the buds. This is how the strawberry-raspberry weevil, a grayish-black beetle up to 3 mm long, damages strawberries. Beetles overwinter under fallen leaves and between clods of earth, and in spring their females lay eggs in the buds of strawberries, raspberries or strawberries, gnawing at the stalk under the bud. One female can destroy up to 50 flowers, and more often the weevil damages for some reason male flowers on high pedicels. The weevil larva eats up the bud from the inside, in which it pupates, and in July a new generation of weevils hatches, devouring strawberry leaves and settling for the winter in the ground.
The fight against weevils on strawberries is carried out by treating the bushes with Karbofos, Metaphos, Aktellik, corsair and other preparations of a similar action in accordance with the instructions during budding, but only no later than a week before the beginning of flowering. As a preventive measure, spring and autumn treatment of the site on a windless day with Actellik or zolone preparations is proposed.
Beetles on strawberries
The strawberry leaf beetle is a yellow-brown beetle up to 4 mm long. He and his larvae eat strawberry leaves, and with the massive dominance of beetles, they are able to destroy greens throughout the entire area.Spring cultivation of strawberries and soil around the bushes with actellik, corsair or karbofos greatly reduces the likelihood of this pest. In addition to the weevil and leaf beetle, the may beetle, or the beetle, as it is also called, causes harm to strawberries. It eats the leaves of plants, including strawberries, for several weeks, during the summer and breeding season, and sometimes there are too many beetles. And worst of all, the female beetle lays eggs, from which the larvae develop, which can cause even more serious harm.
Adult beetles have to be fought with the old methods - shaking them off in the evening or in the morning, until the air temperature has risen above 15 ºC, from the branches and destroyed mechanically so that they do not lay offspring. You can arrange a light trap for the May beetle: coat the edges of the pelvis with a sticky substance (grease, for example) and place a light source on the bottom, take the pelvis out into the garden at dusk and wait for the beetles to fall into the basin, from which they cannot get out.
May beetle larvae
The incredibly voracious beetle larvae gnaw at the roots of strawberries. What are strawberries! A three-year-old beetle larva is capable of eating the roots of a two-year-old pine in one day. The larvae of the beetle can also be harvested by hand, and then destroyed, but it is best to water the area with strawberries during the growing season with an infusion of onion husks: fill the bucket one third with onion husks, then top up the bucket to the top with water and stand for 5 days, and then dilute the infusion with another bucket of water.
The best remedy for larvae - biological preparation Nemabakt, selectively destroying soil pests. The effectiveness of this drug is 90%, but since it contains living organisms, when buying, check the conditions and shelf life of Nemabact.
Mites on strawberries
Strawberries are parasitized by two types of mites - spider mites and strawberry mites, and both of these species feed on the juice of the strawberry leaves, as a result of which the strawberry leaves curl, dry and fall off. In order to destroy these pests in the spring, as soon as young leaves begin to grow, it is necessary to treat the site with phosphamide, karbofos or metaphos. In case of severe damage, re-processing is carried out on the eve of flowering strawberries. The mites will die if you sprinkle the strawberries with a hot (65 ºC) light pink solution of potassium permanganate in the evening.
But do not forget that the main reason for the appearance of a spider mite is a lack of moisture, and a strawberry mite enters the site along with the seedlings, so water the strawberries regularly, and when buying seedlings, carefully examine them. When the time comes to plant strawberries, immerse the seedlings in hot water (47-48 ºC) for 15 minutes - this will rid the seedlings not only of ticks, but also of nematodes.
The length of the strawberry nematode is no more than one millimeter, so it is very difficult to detect it with the naked eye, especially since it lives in the buds and axils of the leaves. In one season, up to eight generations of nematodes that destroy strawberries are replaced. As a result of their vital activity, the buds and peduncles thicken and shorten, the leaf petioles become naked, red and thin, the leaves darken and become leathery. A nematode enters the site along with infected seedlings, but due to the small size of the nematode, it is difficult to detect it. If the occupation of strawberries by a nematode was confirmed by characteristic symptoms, heat the affected bushes, as described in the previous section, just try to spray the strawberries so that the hot solution hits all parts of the plant. It will be even better if you heat the acquired seedlings - just in case, as they say, fire.
Ants in the garden are a disaster, even though they certainly do some good. However, the harm and discomfort from them is much greater. In addition, if ants appear in the garden, aphids will appear after them, which, as you know, is a pet of the anthill. There are many ways to get rid of these insects - both folk, biological and chemical, but they all have drawbacks. Today, the best way to get rid of ants is with special bait-traps with slow-acting poison. The ants deliver these poisonous baits to the anthill and feed them to their queen and other ants, so that in a day the population begins to die en masse. The range of such traps in specialized stores is wide enough, so you can choose the one that suits you.
How to process strawberries - prevention
If in the spring you find that you have a lot of dry bushes in your area with strawberries, this is a signal for you to change the area, because it is undesirable to grow strawberries in one place for more than four years. What are the steps involved in caring for strawberries in the spring? Remove the topsoil between the bushes, where the larvae of pests and pathogens have wintered, and replace it with fresh soil. But if you cannot do this, then remove the rotten last year's mulch from the site and at least loosen the soil on the site to a depth of 6-8 cm, while removing weeds. Cut off all old leaves, mustaches and flower stalks, plant young rosettes in place of the dead bushes and apply fertilizers to the soil, and also treat the site from pests and diseases - there should be at least three such treatments in the spring.
Processing during flowering
As soon as the strawberries begin to grow, cover the area with organic matter or special foil. Before flowering, carry out one more treatment of strawberries for fungal diseases and pests. When buds begin to appear, apply phosphorus fertilizers to the soil, and after flowering, a complex mineral fertilizer.
The older the site, the higher its infectious background, therefore, chemical treatment of the site from diseases cannot be dispensed with. On average, strawberries are sprayed three to four times per season: the first - in early spring after harvesting on the site with a two to three percent Bordeaux mixture or other copper-containing preparations, then in early April, before flowering, when leaves begin to grow massively, strawberries are sprayed with Topsin-M, Quadris or another fungicide. The third and fourth fungicide treatments are carried out after flowering with an interval of two weeks.
Pest control of strawberries
We have told you how to deal with different insects that damage strawberry bushes. Preventive treatments are carried out in the spring, after you have replaced the topsoil on the site. Of the drugs, it is best to use actellic, karbofos, metaphos and other drugs of a similar action. The new drug Tiovit-Jet - acarofungicide, which copes with both pests and fungi, has proven itself perfectly.
How to feed
The first feeding of strawberries is carried out in warm weather, after pruning strawberries and harvesting on the site, before the leaves begin to bloom - that is, in April-early May, heavily diluted bird droppings (1:12) or complex mineral fertilizer - a spoon of nitroammofoska are applied 10 liters of water. At the beginning of flowering and ripening of fruits, strawberries require more potassium, therefore, feeding should consist of an infusion of chicken manure or potassium nitrate, the complex mineral fertilizer Kemira-universal has proven itself very well.
After the strawberries are harvested, the fourth feeding is carried out, which accumulates plastic substances for the next harvest. Top dressing should consist of a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: 30-40 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium fertilizer are dissolved in ten liters of water.
Strawberries also need foliar dressing in the form of spraying the leaves in August with a 3% urea solution for the successful laying of flower buds for the next year and spraying the strawberries four times with a boron solution every 3-4 days during the flowering period - this treatment helps to increase the number of ovaries and the size of future berries.
In addition to the listed fertilizers in specialized stores, you can buy balanced dressings designed specifically for strawberries, the use of which increases the yield of berries by 30%.
- Read the topic on Wikipedia
- Features and other plants of the family Pink
- List of all species on The Plant List
- More information on World Flora Online
- Information about Fruit Crops
- Information about Berry Crops
Sections: Fruit and berry plants Strawberry Pink (Rosaceae) Herbaceous Plants on K
Many do not know what to do when the yucca has dropped its leaves. But it is this fact that most often indicates waterlogging.
The most common problems that occur when growing this plant:
- lack of flowering
- bacterial burn
- the formation of brown spots on the leaves
- the leaves turn yellow on the yucca
- the edges and tips of the leaves become brown
- the appearance of gray spots on the leaves
- the presence of rot on the trunk and root system.
In addition to diseases, yucca can also be affected by a variety of pests. Most often these are whitefly, false shield, slugs, spider mites and mealybugs. How to deal with the above problems, we will consider in this article.
The symptoms of infection often duplicate the previous flaws of the gardener - at first they exclude the consequences of improper care, and then they look for the source of the yellowness of the strawberries in external factors.
Chlorosis of non-infectious origin
Delicate lemon from the base to the tips of the leafy plates with bright green veins, a net of richly colored vessels merges into the dense green of the petiole. This is what a strawberry stricken with non-infectious chlorosis looks like. Yellowness fills only the interveinous space.
The reason is the contrast between the temperature of the air and the ground. The disease is observed only in early spring, when the growing season begins. The soil warms up more slowly. Under the warmth of the sun, strawberries unfold young leaves that need intense nourishment. And the earth is still so cold that the roots are not able to draw out useful substances from it. It is for this reason that gardeners process crops that have begun growing season on a leaf.
The first top dressing is foliar, usually sprayed with urea. The second - after a couple of weeks - dusting with ash. At the same time, they warm up the ground - water the beds with warm water.
In addition to the leaf deformation stated in the name of the disease, the symptom is yellow spots. The combination of signs does not raise doubts about the diagnosis. For greater confidence, remember the nature of the spotting:
- wrong shape
- location not on the edge, but next to the veins
- the tissue on the growing spot dies off, crumbles.
The disease destroys the plant, the treatment will not give results - gardeners get rid of the infected bushes.
With small yellow spots, the visible cycle of the disease begins, which agricultural technicians call xanthosis. The dotted blotches grow together quickly. The plate turns yellow. Rapid extinction - on all parts of the plant: short shoots and peduncles, lethargy, there are almost no berries, and you don't want such a crop - small, tasteless.
It is useless to treat the affected specimen - they save the rest of the plantings: a pest has wound up on the plantation, which transfers the virus from bush to bush.
It is always better to prevent illness than to cure it. In order for the spirea not to begin to dry, it is enough to follow the most basic rules of agricultural technology:
- Plant in loose, low acid soils.
- Do not thicken the planting.
- Do not make the landing hole too deep. The recommended depth is 40-50 cm. In this case, it is advisable to ventilate the planting holes and plant the bushes only after 2-3 days.
- Water the spirea in a timely manner.
- Weed the trunk circle, as weeds are an ideal breeding ground for pests.
- Prune the bushes regularly.
- Do not bury the seedling too deeply. The root collar of the plant should be at ground level.
In addition, it will be useful to periodically spray the bushes with fungicides and insecticides. Preventive treatment should be applied not only to already planted plants, but also planting material.
If the clay content in the soil is too high, it is recommended to lay drainage at the bottom of the planting pit.
A site about a garden, a summer residence and houseplants.
And now what to do with these bushes - leave it or throw it away?
A good friend contacted me with such questions at the end of June. At this time, in our Nizhny Novgorod region, garden strawberries just began to ripen. And before that, in June, there was a heat without a single rain for more than two weeks. And this while pouring berries! I myself didn’t have enough hands to water the strawberry beds. Already when I saw that the leaves of the bushes were wilted, and the berries were forming small, I urgently began to water.
So I assumed that. perhaps due to a strong deficiency of moisture in the soil, the berries have dried up. On the phone, she gave advice not to touch the bushes if they are not old and their foliage is healthy.
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But two weeks later the bell rang again, and Olga Nikolaevna again anxiously asks: what should she do with the strawberry bushes?
There was no harvest, although the rains watered all our orchards abundantly for two and a half weeks. The fact is that almost simultaneously with the beginning of strawberry ripening, an extensive cyclone came to the region with daily rains and a significant drop in temperature: on some days during the day, the thermometer did not rise above 10 ° C. and at night it dropped to 3-4 ° С. By the way, in some areas of the region in the twentieth of June there were even frosts!
This time I had to go on a visit to sort things out on the spot. Looking at the dried berries that remained on the bushes, I immediately realized what was the matter. The harvest was ruined by the gray rot, which was provoked by the July cyclone. This disease in many people really strongly struck strawberry beds, "stealing" a considerable part of the harvest from gardeners. The disease was very strong and almost continuous - all the ovaries were affected at a very early stage, so the berries did not rot, but dried up without filling.
The most common pests of irises
These dark green or brown insects are not only for bearded irises. Aphids gladly settle on the buds, shoots and deciduous parts of asters, gladioli, dahlias and other inhabitants of flower beds. As a result, their stem is deformed, leaves begin to curl and lose color.
Among the main methods of dealing with aphids are:
- regular weeding of beds from weeds and application of potash-phosphorus fertilizers
- single aphids can be collected from irises manually, and if they are found in mass colonies, spraying with insecticidal tinctures or chemical preparations similar to those used in the case of mosaic disease should be carried out.
It is a small white worm that lives in the bulbs and seeds of plants. As a rule, it is suitable for reproduction in a humid environment, but even in severe drought, this pest remains viable for a long time. Larvae and adults of nematodes suck out juices from plants, which leads to swollen stems and irregular flower stalks. After the final wilting of the irises, the pests burrow into the ground in search of their new "victim".
The main thing in the fight against nematodes is the observance of crop rotation, in which the irises need to be returned to their previous sites only after a couple of years. It's also a good idea to set up carrot beds nearby and dry the bulbs before storing them in the winter.
It is not in vain that this pest is also called an onion mite, since, spreading everywhere, it is capable of damaging not only irises during storage, but also hyacinths, daffodils and other bulbous crops.
An insect with a brown body chooses weakened plants for settlement, therefore, when planting the material, it will not be superfluous to treat it with Anti-Mite or sprinkle it with ordinary chalk (only 20 g of grated chalk or lime will be needed per kilogram of bulbs). Before laying for storage, the room must be disinfected within 2 days, smoking with special sulfur bombs, and the irises themselves should be thoroughly dried.
Iris diseases and their treatment will not be a problem if you follow the tips listed above. Pay attention to removing weeds, loosening and cultivating the soil, careful post-flowering care and cultivating the bulbs before storing them for the winter, then bright flowers will be an excellent decoration and a real pride of your front garden.