Cambria orchid: home care, reproduction, transplantation, why it turns yellow

Cambria orchid: home care, reproduction, transplantation, why it turns yellow

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Entitled "Cambria orchid" in a room culture, hybrids of cochliodes, brassia, oncidium, odontoglossum and miltonia are grown, and each of the parents transferred the most positive of their qualities to cambria: large flowers of bright colors went to hybrids from representatives of the odontoglossum genus, a pleasant aroma - from miltonium or brassia, and bright and variegated patterns - from wilsonara and beallara.
Cumbria are the most unpretentious of orchids, and yet you still need to know how to care for cambria at home.

Planting and caring for cambria

  • Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
  • Lighting: bright diffused light (western or eastern windowsills).
  • Temperature: during the growing season during the day - 16-28 ˚C, at night it should be 3-5 degrees cooler. In winter, the temperature should not be higher than 14 ˚C, and it does not matter if the orchid is resting or awake.
  • Watering: basic rule: between waterings, the substrate in the pot should dry out to a rustle. Watering is carried out by immersion. The watering scheme for cambria has its own characteristics, which are better to read in more detail.
  • Air humidity: in the spring-summer period - usual for residential premises. In winter, if the plant is located where the heating devices work, it is better to keep the orchid on a pallet with wet pebbles.
  • Top dressing: 1-2 times a month from the beginning of pseudobulb growth to the beginning of flowering with complex mineral fertilizers for orchids in a half dosage, alternating root application with spraying. After the completion of flowering, top dressing is resumed and they are brought in until the final formation of pseudobulbs. During the dormant period, the orchid is not fed.
  • Rest period: after the completion of flowering and the formation of pseudobulbs, it is desirable to force the cambria into a dormant period. To do this, you need to reduce watering, stop feeding and move the flower pot to a cool room. If this cannot be done for some reason, leave the flower in its usual conditions, but arrange additional artificial lighting and increased air humidity.
  • Transfer: once every 2-3 years at the end of the dormant period. An indication for transplanting is a worn-out substrate or a pot that is too tight.
  • Reproduction: dividing the bush.
  • Pests: mealybugs, thrips, spider mites and whiteflies.
  • Diseases: fungal and bacterial infections.

Read more about the cultivation of cambria below.

Growing features

The cambrian flower, or the star orchid, is an artificially bred hybrid, which means that cambria does not occur in nature. Cambria can be recognized by its rounded pseudobulbs, sympodial growth and long, narrow leaves. In shape, cambrian flowers can be star-shaped or round, from 1 to 10 cm in diameter, purple, red, yellow or brown and various colors.

Home care for cambria

Growing conditions

The cambrian plant is unpretentious in care, however, it has certain preferences in the choice of conditions of detention. For example, cambria grows well on western or eastern windowsills under bright, diffused light, but not in direct sunlight. On the north-facing windowsills, the plant will be dark, and on the south windows, orchid leaves can get burned.

The comfortable temperature for Cambria is from 16 to 28 ºC, and the fluctuation between night and day temperatures should not exceed 3-5 degrees. In winter, whether Cambria is at rest or awake, the room temperature should not drop below 14 ºC.


Abundant moisture will be required for cambria during the growth of new pseudobulbs, but as soon as they are formed, watering is greatly reduced and its intensity resumed only with the appearance of a flower arrow. After flowering, watering is gradually reduced again until it stops completely during the dormant period, and in the spring, when new growths have reached a length of 2-3 cm, they begin to water the cambria again.

The main rule of moistening cambria: the substrate between waterings should dry out almost to a rustle.

And do not forget that the substrate does not dry as quickly in wet weather as in warm and dry weather. It is best to moisten the cambria by immersing the pot with the plant in a container with settled water at room temperature, just do not forget to press the substrate with something from above so that the fragments of the bark of which it consists do not float away.

At home, Cambria normally feels at home with the usual air humidity for a city apartment, and only in winter, if the orchid does not go to rest, and the heating devices dry out the air, it is necessary to increase the humidity level by placing a pot with a plant on a pallet with water or wet pebbles (expanded clay ). The same can be done when pseudobulbs begin to grow in cambria in the spring. It is undesirable to spray the leaves of cambria, since brown spots may appear on them from the drops.


The cambrian orchid at home, like any other plant from the Orchid family, needs additional fertilizing, which they begin to introduce into the substrate with the beginning of the growth of pseudobulbs. From the moment of flowering until the growth of new pseudobulbs, cambria is not fed. Complex mineral fertilizers are used as fertilizers in a weak concentration - two times weaker than indicated in the instructions, since it is very easy to burn sensitive cambrian roots. That is why it is advisable to alternate root dressing with foliar.

When root fertilizers are added to a container of water for bottom watering of the orchid. The regularity of feeding is 1-2 times a month. Keep in mind that it is better to underfeed the cambria than oversupply it with fertilizers.


Caring for the cambrian orchid involves transplanting the orchid from a smaller pot to a larger one, if necessary, which usually occurs once every 2-3 years. Transplanting cambria at home can be caused not only by the growth of the orchid, but also by salinization or caking of the substrate.

As a substrate for cambria, you can use purchased soil for epiphytes and orchids of small and medium fractions. If the air in your room is too dry, add a little vermiculite or agroperlite to the soil, which retain moisture well. The pot for cambria can be either ceramic or plastic, moreover, opaque, since, unlike phalaenopsis, the roots of cambria do not need light.

Place several large pieces of bark on the bottom of the pot as drainage, then fill the container with smaller bark and transplant the orchid without sprinkling the pseudobulbs on top with the substrate. Just attach it to the surface of the substrate. After transplanting, the cambria is not watered, fertilized or rearranged for a week.

Flowering cambria

Leaving during flowering

The flowering of cambria usually occurs in the autumn-winter period, therefore, from the moment the peduncle appears, the plant needs to organize additional lighting. Sometimes there are complaints from flower growers that cambria has refused to bloom for several years. To stimulate the orchid to bloom, try cutting back on watering while the pseudobulbs are growing, and as soon as they form, stop watering for two weeks, then water the plant again and let it stand again without water. This technique will cause the cambria to release a flower stalk, and then you can resume the usual watering regime.

If your orchid blooms regularly from year to year, do not change anything in the order of maintenance and care - as they say, they are not looking for good from good.

Cambria after flowering

Due to its hybrid origin, cambria can do without winter rest, however, due to low light levels and a decrease in the number of sunny days in winter, the growth and development of cambria slows down. You can reduce the watering of the plant, stop feeding and move the orchid to a cool room, thereby plunging it into hibernation, or you can leave it in its usual place, but in this case you will have to install additional lighting for it and take care of the increase in air humidity.

Reproduction of cambria

Cambria is propagated by dividing the bush: when transplanting adult specimens, you need to carefully separate the pseudobulbs, trying not to damage the roots of the plant. The cuts are treated with crushed coal, and then the parts of the cambria are seated in separate pots and looked after, like an adult cambria after transplantation - they do not water, feed or move for a week.

Diseases and pests

Cambria turns yellow

Cumbria can be affected by fungal and bacterial infections. Fungal diseases occur against the background of a chronic excess of moisture in the roots of the plant, and bacterial diseases are most often carried by sucking pests. The first sign that a plant is unhealthy is the yellowing of its leaves. If you find a fungal disease, first dry the flower - both the stem and roots. Remove the plant from the pot and keep it in a dry place for 24 hours, then treat it with a fungicide solution prepared in accordance with the instructions, and as soon as the roots of the cambria dry out, plant it in fresh soil.

If the disease of cambria is bacterial in nature, remove the affected parts of the plant and destroy them, and treat the orchid with a fungicide. However, do not entertain too high hopes - most likely, you will have to part with a plant affected by a bacterial disease.

Another reason for yellowing of cambrian leaves may be a lack of nutrients in the substrate. And, in the end, leaves can turn yellow and fall as a result of a natural process - in the dry season, some orchids shed old leaves.

Pests and the fight against them

Cumbria are simply adored by such pests as worms, thrips, spider mites and whiteflies.

Scorms They look like tiny fluffy white lumps, but they are one of the most dangerous pests of orchids. Dampen a cotton swab with liquid soap, alcohol, or beer and wipe the cambrian leaves, mechanically removing the bugs from the plant. If there are too many worms, treat the plant twice with a weekly break with Fitoverm.

Whiteflies - butterflies, whose larvae suck juices from the leaves of cambria, from which the plant weakens, gets sick and sheds leaves. The larvae are destroyed by wiping the cambrian leaves with a solution of one part of laundry soap in six parts of water. In difficult cases, they resort to treatment with acaricides - solutions of Actellik, Aktar or other drugs of a similar action. After a week, spraying cambria with a solution of acaricide should be repeated.

Thrips also sucking insects, infecting not only terrestrial organs, but also the roots of cambria. Thrips, like whiteflies and worms, are destroyed by double treatment of Actellik, Aktara or Fitoverm solution at weekly intervals.

Spider mites make tiny punctures in the leaves and buds of cambria, through which they feed on the sap of the plant. As a result, leaves and flowers fall off. Spider mites appear on cambria when it lacks moisture for a long time. It is necessary to treat cambria with acaricides twice with a break a week, while increasing the humidity of both the substrate and the air in the room.

Resuscitation of cambria

When a negligent dilettante takes on the cultivation of an exotic plant, the consequences are the most sad. With improper care in cambria, the root system can be seriously damaged and even rotted. However, do not despair, since cambria can be reanimated.

Remove the plant from the pot, inspect the roots, remove those that have rotted, treat the cambria with Fundazole solution and fix it on a substrate of fresh bark and foam. Cumbria without roots does not require watering, but you need to spray it once or twice a week from a fine spray, creating a foggy cloud around the plant, but so that no drops of water flow through the leaves. After two times on the third, spray with a solution of foundation.

It will take a long time for the cambria to grow new roots, but it will still recover, but you must draw conclusions for yourself and not make mistakes that are detrimental to the plant in the future.

Types and varieties

We offer you an acquaintance with the most famous species of Cambria:


A complex hybrid between odontoglossum, cochliode and miltonia, in which peduncles bear from 5 to 20 large flowers of red, pink or yellow color. The flowering of this hybrid is long - up to two months;


A hybrid of brassia, miltonia, odontoglossum and cochlioda, blooming with cream or pink-purple flowers, streaked with dark strokes, dots and spots;


A very complex hybrid of odontoglossum, miltonia, cochliode and oncidium. Its flowers, exuding the scent of a rose and painted in different shades of red and yellow, open in January;


A hybrid developed as a result of crossing odontoglossum, oncidium and miltonia, the flowering of which lasts from one to three months. The flowers are colored in different shades of red and yellow;


Triple hybrid derived from brassia, miltonia and odontoglossum, with flowers up to 10 cm in diameter in various colors;


A simple hybrid between odontoglossum and oncidium, on the peduncles of which up to 50 medium-sized flowers of various combinations of yellow and red colors with dark patterns can open at the same time;


Also a simple hybrid of odontoglossum and cochliodes with yellow or red flowers of different shades.


  1. Read the topic on Wikipedia
  2. Features and other plants of the Orchid family
  3. Indoor Plants Information

Sections: Houseplants Beautiful flowering Orchid Orchids Plants on K Plants on O


The American beauty Brassia orchid is gaining popularity with our florists every year. In the wild, the plant prefers to climb on a hill or hides in tropical forests, where humid warm air prevails. The blossoming buds, like motley spider legs, adorn the stems. Unusual inflorescences are the reason why the flower is called "spider orchid".

Types and descriptions

Due to the many varieties of orchids, flowers can be found to suit every grower. There are several popular varieties that include:

    Beallara - this hybrid is obtained from 4 varieties of orchids (Miltonia, Brassia, Odontoglossum, Kohlioda). Beallara

Flowering occurs in summer. Orchids are found in cream or pink flowers with dark blotches. Burrageara - This hybrid is obtained from 4 varieties of orchids (Miltonia, Oncidium, Odontoglossum and Kohlioda). Burrageara

Flowering occurs in winter. The inflorescence of the flower consists of yellow and red flowers. Colmanara - This hybrid is derived from 3 varieties of orchids (Odontoglossum, Miltonia and Oncidium). Colmanara

The flowering period is 2 months. The long flower arrow can have up to 20 flowers. Wuilstekeara - Derived from 3 varieties of orchids (Odontoglossum, Cochlioda and Miltonia). Wuilstekeara

Flowering occurs at the end of winter and early summer. The flowering period is 6 weeks. There may be 15 flowers on the long flower arrow.

Planting and transplanting a plant

A new pot is needed to plant the plant. It should not be large, it is enough to pick up a container a little more spacious than the previous one. The root system of Cumbria must fill almost the entire volume of the container so that there is no threat of waterlogging of the soil mixture.

Of the material, plastic is preferable. It is not necessary to buy transparent pots, for Cambria it does not matter (but if the grower is inexperienced, then a transparent container will help control the condition of the roots). What really matters is the drainage holes. They need to be big. Holes must also be made on the walls of the pot to improve ventilation of the root system.

The planting pot for Cumbria should provide full ventilation of the roots.

Cumbria substrate is usually purchased from a specialist store that has a large selection of Orchid mixes. You can prepare the material with your own hands, mixing pine bark of the middle fraction (this is the main component), sphagnum moss and charcoal. Peat is not very suitable, it is too water-absorbing. Although, if the room is very hot and the soil dries out quickly, you can add a little to the base soil to retain moisture. And if the situation is the opposite, then pieces of pumice will help, perfectly absorbing excess moisture.

The main condition is that the substrate must pass moisture and air well.

Many growers do not use drainage when planting, lining the bottom of the pot with large pieces of bark. But it still does not interfere, but also gives the pot more stability.

The Cambria Orchid does not like transplanting. Usually, it is subjected to such procedures 1 time in 3-4 years, when the roots have completely mastered the space of the pot, and the pseudobulbs have grown so much that they do not fit into the old container. The plant is transplanted immediately after flowering, when new pseudobulbs are just beginning to grow roots.

There are situations in which you should not wait for the plant to bloom. An urgent transplant is carried out in case of problems with the roots in cases of frequent waterlogging of the soil mixture. In addition, it is advisable to immediately relocate the purchased plant. So you can assess the condition of the root system and rid Cumbria of the transport soil that does not suit her.

Step-by-step transplant process:

  1. We carefully remove Cambria from the pot. If the plant has already been transplanted, then we try not to disturb the root system, that is, we use the transshipment method. If the orchid is in a store substrate, then it should be removed as much as possible. Try especially carefully to examine the very middle of the root ball. There, as a rule, peat cups, lumps of moss or even pieces of foam rubber remain.
  2. Be sure to remove dry and dead pseudobulbs. If the roots are damaged, cut off the rotten, hollow or broken areas, and sprinkle the wounds with crushed coal. Leave it to dry for a few hours.
  3. Pour drainage into a new pot, and place the prepared mixture for orchids on top of it.
  4. We install the cumbria in a new container, carefully place the roots and add the remaining substrate, trying to lay down the larger particles, and place the smaller ones on top. Sometimes you can tap your fingers on the sides of the pot to distribute the bark pieces more evenly between the roots. Do not bury the pseudobulbs, they are supposed to stay on the surface!
  5. The transplanted Cambria should hold well in the ground. To prevent it from wobbling, install stick-shaped supports and tie the plant to them.

We do not water the plant for 5–6 days after transplantation, during which time the root system will recover, and possible wounds will heal.

The root system of Cumbria is very delicate, so when transplanting, you need to act carefully.

Video: transplant process

Basic ways to water orchids

Orchids cannot be called unpretentious flowers. In order for them to grow, they need to be given attention, because this exquisite plant needs a special microclimate. You should also know how to water an orchid - a luxurious flower requires adherence to the frequency of watering.

As a tropical plant, orchids cannot tolerate dry indoor air. A capricious beauty will grow at home only if ideal conditions are created for her. One of them is competent watering.

What kind of water is suitable for watering orchids?

Watering orchids is a whole science. You should choose the right water, this will help not only saturate the plant with water, but also create a nutrient medium for it.
Orchids prefer soft water. If you water it with hard water, the flower will hurt and may die.
Under natural conditions, these exotic epiphytes drink rainwater, which has a weak acidity. To find out how hard water flows from the tap, a simple experiment can be performed.

Watch how quickly scale builds up in the kettle where you boil the water. Water of increased hardness intensively forms a thick limescale inside the container.

To reduce the hardness, you can boil the water. Another way is also suitable:

  1. Take oxalic acid (1/8 teaspoon), mix it with 5 liters of water and let it sit for 24 hours.
  2. After a day, carefully drain the settled water into a saucepan. No sediment should get into it. To avoid sediment getting into clean water, the settling time can be doubled. This will increase the density and mobility of sedimentary masses.

To ensure quality watering of orchids, the water should be saturated with oxygen. To do this, it is enough to pour it slowly with a thin stream. The water temperature should be warm. You can water the flower with water at room temperature.

Proper watering methods

Orchids are very finicky, so not every amateur gardener manages to grow this demanding flower. If you use methods for moisturizing that are suitable for ordinary indoor plants, then the orchid will simply die. The peculiarity of the root system of these epiphytes is that dry soil is not dangerous for them. If you water it too often and too much, the soil will become waterlogged.

Orchids need periodic drying.

The following methods will help you learn how to properly water your orchid. It is advisable to organize watering in one of the following modes:

  1. Using a watering can. Water should pour out in a thin stream. Great care must be taken. Water until water starts flowing through the hole in the pot. After the pan is filled with excess water, it is drained. After two minutes, the whole process is repeated. It is recommended to water orchids in the morning. So by the evening the soil will dry out. Moisture should not get on the plant. With extreme caution, watering should be carried out near the growing point and near the leaf sinuses.
  2. Immersion method. A flower pot with a plant is lowered into a basin (or bathroom) filled with water. Leave the orchid in this "pool" until it is saturated with moisture. Then take out the pot and wait for the excess water to drain out. This method is most applicable to flowers placed in baskets. If the dimensions of the basket are 12x12 cm, then the orchid should be in the water for no more than 30 seconds.
  3. Bathing method. Orchids love to swim. Twice a month it is good to carry out water procedures for a flower. They must be done correctly. Use warm water (about 20 degrees Celsius). The pot with the plant is wrapped in a plastic bag and the soil is watered from the tap. After finishing bathing, the flower is dried, then the bag is removed. Such events not only provide the flower with moisture. Immersion in water is a good way to combat microorganisms, dust, and fungal spores.

How to water a flowering plant?

It is very important to properly organize watering of orchids during flowering. When flowers appear on the plant, then you should switch to a different moisture regime, because the flower needs to grow seeds.

It is considered correct to pour water directly onto the root part. Watering should be done frequently, but not abundantly. The soil should not dry out, but it should not be waterlogged either. It is great if the orchid is placed in a room with high humidity during the flowering period. You can also use a spray bottle, but do not allow the water flowing down the leaf to flood the core of the flower.

Phalaenopsis is one of the most common plant varieties. In its natural environment, this flower absorbs water, which is found in the air by leaves and aerial roots. Therefore, when solving the problem of how to water the phalaenopsis orchid at home, the method of moisturizing should be brought closer to the natural one.

It is enough to observe the condition of the roots of the orchid to find out that it often needs watering. If they become bluish-gray, then the flower should be watered. If the walls of the pot are covered with condensation, then watering should be postponed. There is enough moisture already. In the winter season, it is recommended to postpone watering, and only spray to prevent excess moisture.

How often to moisturize the flower?

For domesticated beauties, watering is often chosen individually. The frequency of hydration depends on the type of flower. To know for sure that it is time to water the plant, you need to observe it - according to the degree of drying of the substrate, you can draw up a watering schedule.

  • It is correct that the earthen lump always remains slightly moist.
  • To determine if it is dry, just try the soil with your finger. If it is dry at a depth of 2 to 3 cm, then watering is necessary.
  • Experienced growers know how to determine the dryness of a flower depending on the weight of the pot. If the room is warm and the air is dry, then the orchid should be watered more often.
  • To grow luxurious flowers at home, it is enough to put a little patience and strength, and provide them with the usual conditions.

The importance of feeding

Experts believe that feeding orchids using fertilizers is a necessary part of the process of caring for plants.

The nutrients contained in the substrate are usually pulled out by the root system. In addition, they are washed out during watering, flowing out through the drainage holes with water located in the pot or planting container.

  • Therefore, plants that are grown at home, including orchids, need periodic feeding with a variety of mineral and organic fertilizers.
  • The instruction explaining how to feed an orchid is quite simple.
  • Most importantly, it is recommended to use nutrients with a minimum nitrogen content to feed the orchid, as they inhibit the development of flower buds.

"Golden" feeding rules

  1. It is strictly forbidden to feed orchids during and immediately after transplanting!
  2. The plant should be fertilized during its growing season.
  3. For flower growers wondering what and how to feed a blooming orchid, experts explain that it is forbidden to feed the plant during the period of active flowering. Violation of this rule can cause a reduction in flowering time.
  4. Orchids cannot be fertilized not only during the flowering period, but also weakened by pests or sick.
  5. Top dressing should not burn the root system of the plant.
  6. It is considered optimal to apply top dressing immediately after watering.
  7. In spring and autumn, orchids should be fertilized no more than once every 2 weeks. In summer and winter - once a month.

How to feed an orchid at home?

Orchid owners should choose fertilizers that are rich in potassium or phosphorus. These substances stimulate bud formation and guarantee the appearance of healthy flowers. For those who are interested in how to feed an orchid at home, you need to remember that fertilizers must meet several basic requirements:

  • acidity indicators (pH) should be from 5 to 7
  • the concentration of feeding for orchids in relation to fertilizers for other indoor flowers should be small
  • fertilizers must contain substances that prevent deposits of trace elements and salts
  • fertilizers must certainly contain the necessary vitamins and high-quality amino acids, which ensure the optimal absorption of nutrients by the plant
  • feeding should stimulate the immune system of indoor plants.

Most often, flower growers who grow indoor plants such as orchids prefer high-quality mineral fertilizers. Organic substances are usually used in connection with an overabundance of nitrogenous compounds, as well as in the presence of difficulties in carrying out their correct dosage.

How can you feed an orchid?

For feeding indoor orchids, it is recommended to use fertilizers containing special marks on the packaging. Usually they are labeled "For Orchids".

  • For flower growers interested in how to feed an orchid, experts explain that fertilizers intended for other indoor plants have a slightly different composition of nutrients.
  • In addition, their dosages are higher than required for feeding orchids. The main components of fertilizers are potash, nitrogen and phosphorus and constituents. The manufacturer always indicates the quantitative content of these substances on the label with the letters N.P.K.
  • For beginners interested in how to feed an orchid to bloom, remember that stimulating orchid flowering is best done with fertilizers with N.P.K., equal to a ratio of 4: 6: 6. To increase the green mass of plants, substances with the level of N.P.K. should be used. 4: 3: 3.

The arsenal of experienced growers usually contains a variety of top dressing, among which there is a composition with a high level of nitrogen necessary for the growth of leaves, as well as dressings containing a high level of phosphorus, which allows the plant to grow flower stalks to improve the flowering process. Experts strongly recommend feeding the orchid during its growing season.

The best feeding

Those who are interested in how to feed an orchid at home should take into account that the following concentrated fertilizers are the best fertilizers for orchids: Ideal, Rainbow, Bona Forte, Garden of Miracles, Oasis.

Any of these means provide effective root feeding or foliar feeding in the form of spraying. Experts recommend strictly adhering to the instructions for the use of such drugs. High concentration of fertilizers in the substrate is extremely dangerous for any type of orchid.

About root feeding

The method of root feeding is intended for high-quality replenishment of the stock of microelements and macroelements in orchids. Before applying top dressing, the root system of the flower is recommended to be thoroughly moistened.

  • In clean tap water at a warm temperature, the fertilizer is diluted to obtain a solution of the concentration indicated on the label.
  • It is recommended to slowly immerse a flower pot with a plant in a container of clean water, while pouring the resulting solution on top.
  • In this position, the plant is left for 20 minutes. Excess mortar flows into the pan.

About foliar feeding

It is recommended to use the method of foliar dressing during the period of active plant growth. In addition, experts recommend using it also in the presence of significant signs of chlorosis, which is the result of a lack of trace elements. Foliar dressing is also used for damage to the root system.

  • Foliar feeding of orchids is carried out in the morning or in cloudy weather.
  • This is necessary to exclude direct sunlight on the leaves of the flower.
  • Thorough spraying of the plants ensures that the aerial roots and leaves are irrigated with fertilizers on both sides.

Flower buds are recommended to be protected from solution ingress. Otherwise, there may be a threat of decay and even death of growth points on the flower. After feeding, the plant must be carefully examined and dried.

Winter maintenance

The active growth of orchids at home begins in the spring, when the illumination improves. At this time, watering is increased and the plants are fed with mineral fertilizers.

With sufficient lighting, watering and optimal temperature, by October, orchids grow the maximum number of leaves and form normal pseudobulbs.

In the future, two options are possible:

  1. In favorable conditions growth continues, peduncles are formed
  2. In unfavorable - the orchid falls asleep, the tips of the roots become dry. At this time, the plant is transferred to a cool room (with a temperature not exceeding 10 ° C) and not watered. In a dormant state, the orchid remains until the lighting increases.

Reproduction by children

Dendrobium Nobile is propagated dividing adult specimens into several parts. At the same time, 2-3 pseudobulbs and a sufficient number of roots should remain on each of them.

The best breeding material is lateral shoots - kids.

To stimulate their growth immediately after flowering, the humidity of the air is increased and the nitrogen content in the soil is increased. In such conditions, aerial roots develop faster.

You can increase air humidity in any way:

  • Put the plant in a greenhouse.
  • Place the pot in a tray of water.
  • Spray the leaves regularly with warm water.
  • Cover the orchid with a plastic bag.

After the roots reach 3-5 cm, the babies are carefully separated from the mother plant along with a piece of the stem. This should be done with a sharp knife or scissors. Slices are sprinkled crushed or activated carbon.

Some growers recommend immersing the roots of the plants in water for a few minutes before planting to moisturize them.

A layer of pebbles or broken brick is poured onto the bottom of a small pot and half covered with a substrate. A young plant is placed and the roots are sprinkled with the remaining soil, carefully compacting it so as not to damage the fragile roots.

For greater stability, the seedling is tied to a peg or bamboo stick, fixing it in an upright position. In this case, it is imperative to ensure that the growth point remained above the soil surface.

Until noticeable growth of the aerial part begins, the substrate is maintained in a moderately moist state. In the future, watered, like adult plants.

Pay attention to this material - Bromelia: home care.

Orchid transplant and reproduction, video:


Sometimes on orchid leaves become noticeable brown spots... If they are dry, they are caused by direct sunlight. Wet, weeping spots are most often caused by fungal diseases.

With an acute lack of light and improper watering, orchids sometimes begin to grow horizontally.

If the leaves are sprayed at low air temperatures, the moisture evaporates slowly, creating favorable conditions for the development of gray rot.

You will be interested in this article - Rubber ficus: home care.

When the orchid does not bloom and at the same time looks weakened and unhealthy - the reason is most likely in improper care... With a lack of light, the plants also do not bloom, but they look normal.

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Plant care at home by seasons:

Landing, transplanting

It is better to buy a substrate for planting in a store, but you can prepare it yourself, its composition: fern rhizome, moss, coal, coniferous or oak bark in equal amounts.

Before planting, the earth is soaked in soft, settled water. With dry air, peat is added to the pot, it will retain the liquid. At high humidity, small pieces of pumice are poured into the soil.

Cumbria is hard to tolerate a transplant, so you need to do it no more than once every two to four years.

Signs that a new pot is needed:

  • the root system is cramped in the old one, the processes come out
  • the substrate has become rotten, moldy, rotting
  • the flower was bought recently and does not produce buds.

  • Purchase a ceramic pot a little larger than the previous one, since the orchid does not like a lot of free space. There should be drainage holes in it.
  • Put a 2 cm layer of gravel on the bottom, cover with coniferous bark on top.
  • Gently brush the roots off the ground with a stick, place the orchid in a new pot.
  • With a highly developed rhizome, bend the processes outward.
  • Fill in the substrate, do not deepen the bulbs.
  • Do not water for five days so that the soil dries well.

Watering and feeding

It is better to irrigate by immersion: the orchid is placed in a container of water for 30 minutes. After they are taken out, the remaining liquid is allowed to drain.

With surface watering, you need to be careful not to flood the plant so that the roots do not start to rot. Carried out as the topsoil dries up. They use soft water of medium acidity, preferably thawed or rainwater, from the water supply system you need to filter, defend.

During the growing season, feeding is applied twice every two weeks. For fertilization, special mixtures for orchids are purchased. Their concentration should be two times less than indicated on the package. Top dressing is applied to a wet substrate.

Flowering features

It usually blooms in autumn and winter. However, if all conditions are created for the development of the orchid (temperature, humidity, light), flowering can be year-round.

Each flower stalk blooms for 4-8 weeks (depending on the variety). Since there are several of them, the orchid produces buds all year round. The life cycle of the plant is provided by pseudobulbs. Before flowering, the bulbs get fat, juice flows into them, pedicels form from the leaf sinuses. After the pseudobulbs dry up. Soon, sprouts begin to form at their base again, this is the beginning of a new life cycle.

In adult specimens, it is recommended to stimulate flowering by lowering the temperature at night by 6 ° C. Young plants do not need to do this. First, they need to gain strength, get stronger.

You also need to stop watering while the bulb is forming. After they ripen, the soil moisture should be resumed, and after a few days, stop again. This speeds up the appearance of peduncles.

Post-flowering care

When the plant fades, the dried stalks are cut off, watering is stopped. With a strong drying of the soil, it is permissible to irrigate it from a spray bottle. When new shoots reach a height of 3 cm, watering is resumed.


Reproduction occurs by dividing the bush:

  • Bulbs are separated from matured, adult specimens. This is done carefully so as not to damage the rhizome.
  • Places of cuts are treated with carbon powder.
  • The strips are placed in pots so that the growth point is in the middle.
  • Unrooted bulbs do not hold well in the ground, so they are fixed with small sticks.
  • Shoots are cared for in the same way as mature specimens.

When dividing a bush, each lobe should have the same number of pseudobulbs. A week after planting, the orchid does not need to be watered, fertilized, or moved. The plant is not propagated by seeds.



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