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The evergreen ivy shrub (Hedera) is a member of the Aralievye family. The main feature of this culture is the presence of many varieties, among which there are quite exquisite, as well as very spectacular.
This plant comes from Europe. This genus unites 15 species, all of which are represented by evergreen shrubs. It is often grown indoors, as it is very popular with gardeners. If there are optimal conditions for the development and growth of such a plant, then a small bush will transform in a short time and become a very beautiful vine. Of course, a lot depends on the variety of the ivy itself. The average growth rate of such a plant is approximately 100 cm in 12 months.
Ivy is an evergreen liana that is highly decorative. It can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Flowering begins in the last summer or first autumn weeks. In addition to being very beautiful, ivy is also a long-liver. The average life span of such a plant is 500 years.
Ivy contains a large number of nutrients, due to which the plant is considered healing. It is used to make medicines that are used to treat liver diseases, as well as for coughs and pain during menstruation in women, and they also help strengthen the body's immune system. Ivy is also quite widespread in alternative medicine.
This plant has such beneficial properties as:
- accelerates wound healing;
Liana helps to cleanse the air in the room from cigarette smoke, as well as from harmful substances released during the operation of the gas stove and when using detergents.
Brief description of cultivation
- Air temperature... The optimum room temperature is about 18 degrees. If the room is warmer, then the plant should be provided with regular moistening from a spray bottle.
- Air humidity... Ivy feels most comfortable at a humidity level of 50-60 percent. That is why the foliage of the plant must be moistened with a spray bottle at intervals of 1 or 2 times every 7 days.
- Illumination... Bright, but diffused lighting should be provided to variegated ivy. For varieties with solid green foliage, it is recommended to choose a northern windowsill. In addition, such an evergreen perennial can get used to an artificial light source.
- Watering... In the warm season, it is necessary to water the liana 1 or 2 times every 7 days. In the winter months, the frequency of watering is halved.
- Soil mixture... Ivy grows best in a self-prepared substrate. Combine peat, garden, leaf and light turf soil, which are taken in equal parts. If the soil mixture has an excessively dense structure, then it should be mixed with perlite and peat or with sand. It should be loose and well-drained.
- Fertilizer... Ivy should be fed regularly, while it is recommended to alternately use organic matter and mineral complex fertilizers.
- Transfer... While the plant is young, it is transplanted twice a year. Adult bushes are transplanted every 2 or 3 years. This procedure is carried out in the spring.
- Reproduction... Ivy can be propagated by cuttings, layering and seed. The latter method is used extremely rarely. Ivy can be propagated by an apical cuttings, which are placed in a container of water for rooting. When the cutting takes root, it must be planted in a separate container with a substrate. To get a cut, next to the bush you need to put a small pot with a substrate, into which an aerial shoot is added.
Ivy (Hedera) home care.
Ivy care at home
Indoor ivy is easy to care for. However, if you want the plant not to hurt and be always lush and beautiful, you must follow certain rules of care.
Indoor ivy is a very thermophilic plant. The optimum temperature for growing it is about 25 degrees. In summer, if possible, take the bush to the balcony, while before the onset of frost, it should be transferred to the house.
Remember that the plant reacts extremely negatively to air temperatures below 13 degrees. Because of this, the vine can start to hurt or pests can settle on it.
The plant needs especially high air humidity on hot summer days. At this time, the foliage is moistened 2 or 3 times every 7 days. In winter, spraying is carried out once every 1.5 weeks, and then only if the room is hot and excessively low humidity.
This vine needs diffused light, since the direct rays of the sun cause burns on the leaf plates. In summer, it is recommended to transfer the flower to the northern windowsill or balcony. This perennial should be kept in a heated room during the winter months. At this time, the plant should be provided with additional lighting, and a fluorescent lamp is perfect for this.
Remember that ivy reacts negatively to frequent rearrangements. In this regard, it is necessary to transfer it to a new place only when absolutely necessary.
How often should the potting medium be moistened? This is greatly influenced by the season. In the winter months, the plant is watered about 1 time in 7 days, and in the warm season - 1 or 2 times a week.
You need to moisten the soil mixture in the pot sparingly, while at the bottom, be sure to make drainage holes that will help prevent moisture stagnation in the roots.
The choice of a pot suitable for growing ivy must be treated with great care. If the container is excessively voluminous, this will lead to the appearance of rot on the root system, and if it is very crowded, this can cause the defective development of the bush.
For planting a young bush, use a medium-sized pot. During transplants, each time it is replaced with a container that is 20–30 mm larger than the previous one.
With regard to the substrate, indoor ivy does not impose special requirements. However, it must be loose and breathable. If desired, for planting, you can use a ready-made, commercially available universal substrate for indoor crops.
To prepare the soil mixture with your own hands, you need to combine humus, leafy soil, sand and peat, which are taken in equal parts.
Without timely feeding, ivy will not be able to grow and develop fully. For this, you can use both mineral fertilizers and organic matter. Experienced flower growers recommend alternating such fertilizers. Feeding with complex minerals will help you achieve quick and tangible results.
In the warm season, feeding is carried out with a frequency of 1 every 2 weeks. With the onset of the winter period, the frequency of feeding is reduced to 1 time per month.
While the vine is young, its transplant is carried out annually in the spring. When the bush is three years old, the frequency of transplants should be reduced to one every 2-3 years. When replanting a plant, be sure to replace the old container with a new one, which should be slightly larger in diameter. The transplanted bush must be watered.
Heder's ivy. What do you need to know?
Timely pruning of ivy is an important procedure in growing homemade ivy. This procedure is not recommended to be neglected, as it has a positive effect on the development of the plant. Thanks to it, the growth of vines is accelerated, and the process of forming young shoots is also started.
Pruning ivy is that the upper parts of the shoots are regularly pinched. This procedure is carried out only when necessary.
In order for the bush to retain its attractive appearance, it is necessary to promptly remove leafless, as well as dead shoots. Pruning on time will have a positive effect on the health and appearance of the plant.
Domestic ivy does not have a dormant period. It is actively developing and growing all year round.
The first flowering of such a perennial vine can occur at the age of 8 or 9 years. Small umbellate inflorescences form on the branches, on which, over time, berry-like fruits of blue or black color are formed. Most often, these berries contain poison. As a rule, ivy practically does not bloom in indoor conditions.
Hedera is an extraordinary ivy. Vampires are these unpretentious indoor flowers or just joy in the house
Most often at home, ivy is propagated by layering and cuttings.
Harvesting and rooting of cuttings is recommended in the spring. This procedure is quite simple, the main thing is to know a few rules:
- For the cut, trim off the top of the shoot. Rooting will be much easier and faster if there are already air roots on the shoot.
- The stalk for rooting is placed in a glass filled with water (both glass and plastic can be used).
- After roots are formed on the segment, they are planted in a temporary container with a substrate (for example, in a plastic cup). The cutting is deepened into the substrate by about 5–10 mm. Water it well and cover it with a plastic bag on top, which is pierced in several places so that air can flow to the plant.
- When 1–1.5 months have passed, the cutting should be fully rooted. After that, it is planted already in a permanent container.
Ivy propagation by cuttings.
Reproduction by layering
Ivy can also be propagated by layering. This method is simple and convenient:
- Choose a stem on the bush that has aerial roots. It is not separated from the plant, but dripped into a nearby pot filled with a substrate consisting of peat and sand.
- Dig in the shoot well and fix it in any convenient way. Then the soil mixture in the pot is moistened.
- Already after 1–1.5 weeks, the cuttings will be overgrown with roots. When this happens, it is separated from the mother bush and planted in an individual container.
If you make mistakes when caring for ivy or do not provide it with favorable conditions for growth, then this can cause problems such as:
- Fly around the bottom sheet plates... In this case, it is recommended to cut off all the lower foliage with simple or garden shears. They fly around only in mature bushes and this is a completely natural process that should not cause you anxiety.
- Blackening of foliage... Stagnation of moisture in the substrate. In this case, you need to start watering the plant more moderately.
- The stems are strongly elongated... This is due to the fact that the bush lacks light. Move it to a more suitable place or provide additional lighting with fluorescent lamps.
- Foliage shrinking... This problem is also associated with excessively poor lighting.
- In variegated varieties, foliage becomes faded... Ivy lacks light. It needs a lot of bright, diffused light.
- The leaf plates of the variegated variety became monochromatic green... This is due to the fact that the substrate contains a large amount of nitrogen. To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to water the plant more abundantly, since the water promotes the rapid leaching of nitrogen. However, make sure that no water stagnates in the soil mixture. It is also recommended to feed the flower with potassium and phosphorus.
- Leaves become faded... This is due to poor lighting.
- The tops of the leaf plates are colored brown... This is due to the fact that the room has low air humidity and the plant suffers from a lack of moisture. Water the ivy on time and spray it regularly with a spray bottle.
- Very slow growth... The plant is experiencing an acute lack of nutrients. Do not forget to fertilize on time.
Due to improper care, the plant weakens and pests can settle on it, for example: scale insects, spider mites and aphids.
Ivy types with photos and names
If you want to decorate your home with a vine, then ivy is just what you need. It comes in several spectacular varieties, so you have a lot to choose from. The varieties that are most popular in indoor culture are described below.
Common ivy (Hedera helix)
This species is most often grown indoors. A characteristic feature of this plant is that the shoots are fixed on surfaces that are located in close proximity to them. This allows you to give a spectacular shape to the liana.
Canary ivy (Hedera helix ssp. Canariensis)
The leaf plates of the bush are dense, large and have a variegated color. The length of an adult leaf is about 12 centimeters. This variety does not have air roots, therefore, it needs constant support. To make the bush thick and look spectacular, pinch and correct shape once a year. Ivy needs bright lighting, while it reacts extremely negatively to cold. In an adult liana, the shoots are red.
Its thin stems are decorated with glossy large leaf plates. This variety does not need a lot of light and can grow constantly in shade.
Ivy variety Lise
The foliage of this variety has a unique, spectacular color. The stems of this bush are very long.
Common ivy (Hedera helix) Rules of care and reproduction
Is ivy poisonous?
Hedera does not contain and does not emit toxic substances. The only exceptions are its berries. Despite the fact that humans cannot eat them, in nature they are readily eaten by birds, contributing to the reproduction of ivy. The common term "poison ivy" refers to a completely different plant - the toxicodendron, which is also a liana.
Sometimes rumors about the "poisonous" ivy concern the energy created by the flower. According to some beliefs, it is considered an unfavorable plant for single girls - the liana is credited with the ability to drive away men. At the same time, in ancient Greece, hedera, on the contrary, was considered a symbol of male fidelity and a guarantee of strong love.
Reproduction of mycania
Mikaniya propagates in one single way - with the help of cuttings. To do this, cut off the tops of the shoot, moisten the cut in a growth stimulator. Next, the shoots are planted in containers and covered with a glass jar or film, thus creating greenhouse conditions. They contain plants at a temperature of at least 20 degrees, the greenhouse is aired daily, and the substrate is moistened.
Aeonium care at home
The houseplant aeonium is not capricious, but requires certain conditions of detention. Aeoniums are sun-loving, and especially brightly colored species and varieties need bright illumination: even in light partial shade, their stems stretch and bend, and the leaves lose their original color. Therefore, it is best to keep the aeonium flower on a southern or southeastern windowsill, slightly shading it from direct rays in the afternoon with a light curtain.
In the photo: Eonium at home
But the succulent eonium does not tolerate heat well: the temperature in the room where the aeonium grows in the warm season should not be higher than 25 ˚С, and in winter it is advisable to keep the plant at 10-12 С.Aeoniums need fresh air, so the room must be regularly ventilated, protecting the plant from drafts.
Eonium happily spends summer vacations outdoors, and you can take it out into the garden as soon as the air warms up to 10 ˚C, and it is advisable to return the succulent to the room with the onset of the autumn cold snap.
Watering and feeding
You don't have to water the aeonium flower often. In summer, the soil in the pot is moistened more often, less often in winter, but the principle of moistening is the same at any time of the year: between waterings, the earthen lump should dry out almost completely. On average, in winter, watering is carried out once a month, and during the period of active growth - 1-2 times a week. For humidification, use settled water at room temperature. You need to pour water into the pot on the inside of the container so that it does not fall on the base of the stem and does not accumulate in the outlet, otherwise the plant will start to rot.
Aeoniums are indifferent to air humidity and do not need either spraying or washing: hygiene is maintained by sweeping dust from the leaves of the plant with a dry brush.
Eoniums are fed only during the period of active growth once every 2-3 weeks. Mineral complexes for cacti or succulent plants are used as fertilizers. No fertilization is required in winter. The plant does not require additional fertilizing even if it has just been transplanted into a fresh substrate.
Young aeoniums are transplanted annually, and adults - once every 2-3 years, when the old pot becomes cramped for them. A thick layer of drainage material should be put into a new container - 7-8 cm, after which the plant is removed from the old pot and transferred together with an earthen lump into a new one, and the remaining space is filled with fresh substrate, consisting of equal parts of coarse sand, turf, leaf land and peat.
It is a good idea to add a little charcoal to the substrate in order to prevent the development of putrefactive infections in the future.
You can change the substrate partially: large and old specimens do not like to be disturbed, therefore, in their pots, they annually replace 5 cm of the old substrate with a fresh one.
In the photo: Handsome decorative aeonium
When transplanting, the plant is deepened to the same level at which it grew in the old pot. If you suspect that the root system of the aeonium is damaged, after removing the flower from the pot, free its roots from the old substrate and carefully examine them.
If necessary, remove rotten and damaged areas with a sterile instrument, treat the wounds with charcoal powder, and only then plant the plant in a new pot and fresh substrate.
Reproduction of aeonium
Eoniums reproduce by seed and vegetative methods. When seed reproduction Seeds purchased in the store are sown on the surface of the seedling soil, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with glass or film and kept awaiting shoots at a temperature of about 20 ° C. Fortified seedlings of aeonium are planted in separate cups and grown, and when they form a rosette of leaves, they are transplanted into pots.
For reproduction of aeonium by cuttings the stem with a rosette of leaves is separated from the mother plant with a sharp sterile knife, making an oblique cut at an angle of 45˚. The cut surface is treated with coal powder and the cuttings are allowed to dry out for 2-3 days, after which they are planted in a disinfected mixture of sand and leafy earth, deepening by 2-3 cm. They take care of the cuttings, keeping the soil in a slightly damp state: this will accelerate the regrowth of roots. Contain a stalk under bright, diffused light. Rooting takes place in one and a half to two months.
Aeonium leaf can also be used as a cutting for vegetative propagation, carefully separating it from the outlet. The leaf is dried for several hours, after which the cut of the leaf blade is buried in the soil mixture for rooting. The moisture content of the soil is maintained by spraying from a sprayer with settled water at room temperature. The conditions for the rooting leaf are the same as for the outlet. After a while, you will see that small rosettes have formed on the surface of the substrate near the cuttings. Let them grow and plant them in pots.
In autumn, the leaves of adenium turn yellow and fall off, which can alert novice florists. But you should not worry, since this is a normal phenomenon for him, because at this time the plant enters a state of dormancy. In other seasons, the reasons for this may be too low a temperature, as a result of which it freezes, or a change in the usual conditions of detention.